World Travel Archives • A Passion and A Passport https://apassionandapassport.com/category/wanderlust/ Proving Travel is Possible with a Full-Time 9-5 Tue, 14 Oct 2025 03:14:52 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=5.8.12 Day Trip to Procida from Naples: How to Spend One Perfect Day on Italy’s Pastel Paradise https://apassionandapassport.com/procida-day-trip/ https://apassionandapassport.com/procida-day-trip/#respond Mon, 13 Oct 2025 19:38:40 +0000 https://apassionandapassport.com/?p=32815 Headed to Italy and planning a day trip to Procida? You’re in the right place! Here’s everything you need to know about spending one day in Procida from Naples.  When I originally booked my trip to Naples, I was thinking I’d take day trips to Capri and the Amalfi Coast. But then I started hearingContinue Reading

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Headed to Italy and planning a day trip to Procida? You’re in the right place! Here’s everything you need to know about spending one day in Procida from Naples. 

When I originally booked my trip to Naples, I was thinking I’d take day trips to Capri and the Amalfi Coast. But then I started hearing about Procida, and just knew I needed to include this tiny island in my plans. And I’m SO glad I did my day trip to Procida from Naples ended up being one of my favorite days on my entire southern Italy trip!

So, if you’re craving a break from the crowds in Naples (I get it) or the glitz of Capri (yes, it’s a little stuffy), Procida (pronounced Pro-chee-dah) is your postcard-perfect escape! Think candy-colored houses, sun-bleached fishing boats, and a laid-back vibe that feels like stepping back in time. It’s just glorious!

If Capri is the glamorous movie star of the Bay of Naples, then Procida is her effortlessly cool little sister – the one who shows up in vintage linen, doesn’t care about the paparazzi, and somehow steals the scene anyway.

Just a short ferry ride from Naples or Ischia, this tiny island is bursting with pastel fishing villages, lemon groves, and old-world charm that feels refreshingly authentic. Often called a hidden gem of the Amalfi Coast (though technically it sits in the Bay of Naples), Procida is quieter and more low-key than its famous neighbors – and that’s exactly the point. 

Ready to trade crowds for cobblestones, and glamour for genuine charm? Here’s how to spend one day on Procida Italy’s most colorful island (or does that title belong to Burano?! I’ll let you decide). Just promise me one thing – you’ll say hi to Captain Domenico on his boat tour around the island! It was hands-down the highlight of my day!

Procida Day Trip Logistics

Where is Procida? 

Procida is a tiny island in the Bay of Naples, floating between the Italian mainland and the larger island of Ischia. It’s the smallest of the three main islands in the bay (Capri, Ischia, and Procida), and arguably the most authentic. And it’s the closest island to the shore, meaning it doesn’t take too long to get there (which is perfect if all you’ve got is a day in Procida)!

Only about 4 square kilometers in size, Procida sits roughly:

  • 40 minutes by ferry from Naples
  • 20-30 minutes by ferry from Ischia
  • And just a bit further from Capri

Because of its small size and its location in the Bay of Naples, Procida is best visited as a day trip from Naples, Ischia, or even Capri. It’s a world apart from the big-name hot spots like Rome, Venice, Florence, and Puglia, which are much farther away and not directly connected. But if you’re already in southern Italy like I was, it’s an easy (and incredibly rewarding) detour.

How to Get to Procida 

Planning a day trip to Procida is easy from anywhere in the Bay of Naples. Whether you’re coming from Naples, Ischia, Capri, or the Amalfi Coast, just hop on a ferry and you’ll be strolling those candy-colored streets in no time. 

Here’s how to plan your Procida day trip from each spot:

From Naples

  • Departure ports: Molo Beverello (fast hydrofoils) or Porta di Massa (slower ferries)
  • Operators: Caremar, SNAV, Medmar – I used Caremar and it was smooth.
  • Travel time: 40–60 minutes depending on the boat.
  • Cost: About €15–€20 each way. Buy at the port or book online in summer for early departures.
  • Tip: Don’t want to DIY? Try a Naples to Procida transfer with an island boat tour via GetYourGuide — perfect for a seamless Procida day trip. 

From Ischia

  • Departure port: Ischia Porto
  • Travel time: Just 20–30 minutes – the quickest hop of all.
  • Why it’s great: Ideal if you’re staying on Ischia and want an easy day trip to Procida without much planning.

From Capri

  • Connections: Occasional ferries, often with a transfer in Ischia or Naples.
  • Plan ahead: Schedules are limited and not daily.
  • My take: If you’re passing through Naples anyway, it’s usually simpler to stay a night there and go direct from Naples for your Procida day trip.

From the Amalfi Coast

  • Ports: Positano or Sorrento
  • Travel time: Around 2 hours one way.
  • Reality check: You’ll likely pass through Naples and lose a big chunk of your day. Spend a night in Naples if you can to maximize time on your day trip to Procida.

How I got to Procida:

When I visited this region of Italy, I based myself in Naples, which made Procida an easy and super convenient day trip. I booked a ticket on the Caremar ferry in advance because I was traveling during high season and wanted to snag an early morning time slot – the earlier you arrive, the more time you have to soak up the island before the midday crowds (and heat) roll in. 

For reference, I booked an 8:55am hydrofoil there and a 8:15pm ferry back to Naples. This was the perfect amount of time on the island for me, and I didn’t have to wake up at the crack of dawn. 

Psst – if you book in advance, you’ll need to collect your boarding pass at the ticket office. Make sure to get there early (about 45 minutes or so, possibly more if you’re traveling during high season).

Something to note: there’s two ports in Naples (Molo Beverello and Calata Porta di Massa); make sure to go to the correct one. Don’t make the same mistake I did… Thankfully they’re only about a 15 minute walk from each other, but still annoying to first walk to the wrong one and then realize you actually needed the other… Make sure to look on your ticket to see which port your boat is leaving from. Whoops!

Ferry tips from my experience:

  • Book early if you’re visiting in peak season – the boats do in fact fill up.
  • Aim for an early morning boat so you can really stretch your time on the island and enjoy the quieter morning vibe.
  • Don’t forget to check the return schedule when you arrive – the last ferries back to Naples and Ischia are usually in the evening, and you don’t wanna get stranded (unless, of course, you secretly do want an excuse to stay overnight – can’t say I’d blame you).
  • Sit outside if the weather’s good – the sea breeze and the views of Vesuvius and the bay are worth the salty hair. Plus, I got to see a stunning sunset on the way back!

How to Get Around Procida 

I walked all around Procida, and honestly? It was a lot of walking – but totally worth it. The island is only about 4 square kilometers, so it’s doable, but those hills, stairs, and cobblestones will definitely give your legs a workout. Like I said earlier: wear comfortable shoes – your feet will thank you. I wore sandals and they were fine, but in hindsight sneakers would’ve been much better.

If you’d rather save your energy (or just want to see more without the sweat), you have a few other options:

  • Local Minibuses: The buses are small, frequent, and inexpensive (about €1.50–€2 per ride if you buy a ticket at a shop, slightly more if you pay onboard).
    • The main operator is EAV Bus, which runs several routes circling the island.
    • You’ll find bus stops near the ferry terminal at Marina Grande and throughout the island – just look for the signs marked with Fermata.
    • The most useful routes for visitors are usually the L1 and L2, which hit the main areas like Marina Grande, Chiaiolella, and Terra Murata.
  • Bikes & E-bikes: Several rental shops near the marina offer bicycles or electric bikes by the hour or day – a good middle ground if you don’t want to walk the whole island but still want to go at your own pace.
  • Scooters: You can also rent a scooter if you’re comfortable navigating the narrow streets. Just watch out for the sharp curves and steep bits!

When to Visit Procida

You can technically visit Procida year-round, but some months are definitely better than others depending on what kind of experience you’re after – and how hot (or cool) you like it.

I visited Procida at the end of June, and it was absolutely gorgeous — sunny skies, long days, and the island in full bloom. Yes, it was high season, but to be honest, it didn’t feel exceptionally busy — especially compared to the super crazy crowds I’d just left behind in Naples. 

Part of that, I think, was thanks to my early start: I caught the 8:55am ferry from Naples and arrived at Procida before 10am. The island felt like it was still waking up – the streets were quiet, shutters were just starting to open, and for a good hour or so I wandered peacefully, soaking it all in before more visitors arrived.

High Season (June – August)

This is when the island is at its liveliest – hot weather, everything open, and plenty of events and festivals. Daytime temps average around 28–32°C (82–90°F), with July and August being the hottest months. That said, if you plan well and arrive early like I did, it can still feel calm and magical, even at the peak of summer.

Shoulder Seasons (April – May & September – October)

If you can swing it, these are arguably the best months to visit. The weather is still warm and pleasant, but the crowds thin out a bit. Daytime temperatures are typically 18–24°C (64–75°F) in spring and 22–27°C (72–81°F) in early fall. Ferries are less hectic, and you’ll have more space to wander without bumping elbows at every viewpoint.

Winter (November – March)

The island quiets down considerably in winter. Some restaurants and shops close for the season, and ferry schedules are reduced. Daytime temperatures hover around 10–15°C (50–59°F), so it’s much cooler, but you’ll have the island almost entirely to yourself.

BUT (yes, of course there’s a but, haha), I honestly wouldn’t recommend going in winter if you want the true Procida experience. Most of the restaurants will be closed, and it’ll be far too chilly to go for a swim in the turquoise waters (my favorite!).

Also, ferries are less frequent from November to March, so just keep that in mind if you’re visiting in the low season.

Is a day trip to Procida worth it?

I can say without hesitation: yes – absolutely. My day trip to Procida ended up being one of my favorite days in all of Italy.

The island’s charm is undeniable – pastel-colored houses stacked above the sea, quiet little alleys, fresh seafood, and a vibe that feels worlds away from the chaos of Naples. But what really made it special for me were the locals. I found them to be incredibly welcoming and genuinely happy that visitors are discovering and appreciating their island. (Just remember to be respectful – this is their home, not just a backdrop for your Instagram.)

At one point, a local fisherman – an older gentleman with the most genuine, kindest smile – even invited me into his traditional fisherman’s home. I’ll admit, I was a little wary at first (being invited into a stranger’s house can feel a bit unexpected, especially as a solo female traveler!), but it turned out to be one of those magical travel moments I’ll never forget. He was so proud to show me around, pointing out family heirlooms and telling stories about his life on the island. 

He even shared that he’s turning his home into an Airbnb – a clear sign of how Procida is slowly shifting to welcome more tourism. Whether that’s good or bad… I’m not sure yet. But it was such a privilege to glimpse his life and see firsthand both the pride locals have in their island and the changes they’re adapting to. I’ll never forget his sweet smile!

So yes – if you’re in Naples or Ischia and want a day filled with authenticity, beauty, and maybe even a few surprises, Procida is 100% worth it.

Is One Day in Procida Enough?

I think so! One day is plenty to see the highlights – especially if you catch an early ferry and stay until sunset (like I did).

With one day in Procida, you’ll have time to:

  • Explore the two main marinas
  • See the island’s most spectacular viewpoint
  • Enjoy a leisurely meal and gelato
  • Circle the island via boat trip (plus some swimming!)
  • Even sneak in some beach time if you’re quick

Of course, if you fall in love with the vibe (very possible), you might find yourself wishing you had another day to just chill by the sea with a spritz. But for most travelers (including myself), a full day is the perfect amount of time to soak in Procida’s charm. To be honest, I think more than a day (or two) would be overkill, unless you want a few exceptionally chill days.

Brief History of Procida 

Procida’s story stretches back thousands of years – this tiny island has seen it all, from ancient Greek settlers to Roman emperors and beyond. Its strategic location in the Bay of Naples made it a valuable spot for fishermen, traders, and rulers alike.

Over the centuries, Procida was shaped by waves of invaders and settlers: the Greeks established early colonies here, then the Romans took over, using the island as a quiet retreat. During the Middle Ages, Procida became an important defensive outpost with fortresses built to protect against pirates and rival powers.

For much of its history, Procida remained a humble fishing village – generations of locals making their living from the sea, crafting colorful boats and preserving their unique traditions. It wasn’t until recently that the island started to attract tourists looking for a more authentic and peaceful alternative to nearby Capri.

Interestingly, Procida was named Italy’s Capital of Culture in 2022 – kind of like how Matera was named the European Capital of Culture in 2019. This honor is a nod to Procida’s rich heritage and vibrant local arts scene. It’s a place where history isn’t just locked away in museums – it’s alive in every sun-washed alley and seaside terrace.

Things To Do in Procida in One Day

If you’ve only got one day on this charming little island (like I did), here’s how to make the most of it – with plenty of time for wandering, eating, and soaking in Procida’s pastel-colored magic.

8:55am: Catch the Early Ferry from Naples

Start your day trip to Procida bright and early with the Caremar 8:55 a.m. ferry from Naples (what I did!). I recommend booking your ticket in advance if it’s high season – not just to secure a spot, but also to snag an early time slot so you can enjoy more of the island before the other day-trippers arrive. 

Remember – get to the ferry terminal BEFORE your ferry departure time. This is when it leaves, so you’ll wanna get there about 45 minutes beforehand.

Arriving at Procida just before 10am, I immediately noticed how calm and sleepy Procida felt compared to chaotic Naples – it was such a breath of fresh air and my body instantly relaxed. 

Naples does get a bad rep, and even though I’ve taken more than a dozen solo trips around the world and wasn’t exactly worried during my time in Naples, I’ll admit I still felt a bit apprehensive because of all the stories I’d heard. Stepping onto Procida, though, I felt that weight lift and found myself feeling much more carefree.

10am: Coffee & a Lingua di Procida near Marina Grande

Once you step off the ferry at Marina di Procida, pop into Pasticceria Bar Roma (right by the port) and start your day the Procidani way – with a lingua di Procida and a coffee. This flaky, lemon custard-filled pastry is light, tart, sweet, and absolutely perfect with an espresso. Since it was invented right here on the island, it feels only right to enjoy it at the start of your adventure!

Afterwards, stroll around the little shops – they were just starting to open once I arrived! Lots of cute lemony stuff to check out (too bad my suitcase was already stuffed).

10:30am: Explore Marina di Corricella

Make your way to Marina di Corricella, the dreamy, iconic pastel harbor you’ve probably seen in every Procida photo. I walked here on foot (comfy shoes highly recommended – lots of stairs and uneven cobblestones), and because I arrived so early, it was practically empty. The streets were quiet, shutters were still closed, and it felt like the island was just beginning to wake up – truly magical. 

Once the restaurants began to open up, I could totally see why everyone is beyond obsessed with this idyllic little port. It’s just so adorable and picturesque! Truly the icon of Procida, and it’s oh so colorful (which I just love). 

This is also where I met that sweet older fisherman I was telling you about before!

While in Corricella, grab a lemon granita (I got mine at Chiaro di Luna cocktail bar e Gelateria Artigianale) and just sit by the water for a bit, soaking in the scene of fishing boats, colorful balconies, and locals going about their day. And wave to the fisherman — they’re so friendly!

12pm: Visit Casale Vascello

Head inland to find Casale Vascello, a tucked-away courtyard surrounded by historic homes with arched staircases, painted doors, and that timeless village vibe. It’s peaceful and worth a quick wander before lunch.

1pm: Lunch With a View

Lunch is an event here, and you have two excellent options:

  • If you’re more organized than me and made a reservation, head to La Lampara. This spot has some of the best views on the island, overlooking Corricella, with fantastic seafood, pasta, house wine, and a truly dreamy tiramisu.
  • If you didn’t book ahead (like me), don’t worry – I ended up at Il Pescatore and loved it. It’s right on the harbor, with views of the fishing boats and a breezy, relaxed vibe. The spaghetti al limone blew me away (my new favorite pasta dish), and their refreshing lemon salad – their specialty – was just what I needed.

2:30pm: Climb to Panoramica sulla Corricella

Next, make your way to one of the best viewpoints on the island: Panoramica sulla Corricella. The climb is pretty steep to be honest with lots of stairs (or you can catch the C2 bus from the port if you’d rather save your legs), but the view of the harbor below is worth every step – this is the best view of Procida in my opinion. Whatever you do, don’t miss this.

And it was way less crowded than I thought it’d be!

I admit I got a little lost with all the climbing (it’s hard to know exactly which steps to actually climb), but I eventually made it! And found some extra views I originally wouldn’t have along the way!

If you’re feeling adventurous, continue walking up to Palazzo D’Avalos, a faded but fascinating former palace and prison that’s being renovated. Even if the building itself isn’t much to see up close, the sea views from here are beautiful. 

I walked up and didn’t really think it was worth it (I was already pretty sweaty and hot), but you be the judge yourself!

3:30pm: See Procida by Boat

The perfect way to wind down your day is with a boat tour around the island. This is the exact boat tour I went on, and it was beyond fantastic. This is one of the best ways to see the island for sure. Honestly, I’d even say it was the highlight of my day.

Domenico, the skipper, was not only extremely kind, knowledgeable, and professional, but his boat was immaculate and extremely beautiful (and he’s not too bad looking himself, wink wink). We stopped at beautiful, hidden swimming spots with the most turquoise water I never would’ve found on my own, and of course seeing the island from the sea felt so special.

We cruised past landmarks like the Palazzo D’Avalos perched on its cliff, the Cave of the Marine Ox in Punta dei Monaci, Carbonchio Bay, the Bourbon Palace, Chiaiozza and its natural pool, Vivara Island, Postman Beach (Pozzovecchio), and the Punta Pioppeto Lighthouse. 

I chose the 3:30pm start time so I could explore the island in the morning and relax on the water in the afternoon – it was the perfect way to balance the day.

6pm: Gelato Before You Go

After docking back at the port, cap off your perfect day the Italian way – with a scoop (or two) of gelato. There’s plenty of little gelaterias near the ferry terminal, so grab a cone, stroll along the waterfront, and savor every bite. Because let’s be honest – no perfect day in Italy is complete without a gelato.

7 or 8pm (depending on month visited): Sunset Ferry Back

End your day by catching a ferry back to Naples at sunset. I got lucky and watched the sky turn shades of pink and gold over the Bay of Naples from the deck – the perfect, dreamy ending to an already unforgettable day.

More Things to Do in Procida (If You Have Extra Time)

If you’re lucky enough to move at a slower pace – or just want a few alternatives to the main itinerary – here are some extra ideas to round out your day:

Walk to Vivara Island

Connected to Procida by a small pedestrian bridge, Vivara Island is a protected nature reserve that feels wonderfully wild. It’s full of Mediterranean plants and birds, and because visitor numbers are limited, it’s incredibly peaceful. (Check ahead to see if it’s open during your visit – it’s sometimes closed seasonally or for maintenance.)

Lounge on a Beach

To be honest, the beaches on Procida didn’t wow me at all (those in Puglia, Cinque Terre, and even Croatia are way more my style). 

But if you’re craving sand between your toes, head to Spiaggia di Pozzo Vecchio (Postman’s Beach) – a quiet black-sand beach made famous by Il Postino. Or check out Chiaiolella Beach, which is bigger and livelier, perfect for a quick swim or people-watching.

Visit a Church

Pop into Abbazia San Michele Arcangelo, up near Terra Murata, for a peek at Procida’s spiritual heart. The church is dedicated to the island’s patron saint, and the views from up there are spectacular.



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My Florence to San Marino Day Trip: Medieval Towers, Hilltop Views, and Zero Crowds https://apassionandapassport.com/florence-to-san-marino-day-trip/ https://apassionandapassport.com/florence-to-san-marino-day-trip/#respond Thu, 02 Oct 2025 01:56:44 +0000 https://apassionandapassport.com/?p=32757 Planning a day trip from Florence to San Marino? You’re in for a seriously underrated adventure. This tiny mountaintop country might be one of the world’s oldest republics, but it’s also one of the most charming (and photogenic) spots I visited during my time in Florence. Picture dramatic stone towers, sweeping hillside views, cobblestone alleys,Continue Reading

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Planning a day trip from Florence to San Marino? You’re in for a seriously underrated adventure. This tiny mountaintop country might be one of the world’s oldest republics, but it’s also one of the most charming (and photogenic) spots I visited during my time in Florence. Picture dramatic stone towers, sweeping hillside views, cobblestone alleys, and (bonus!) hardly any crowds.

In this post, I’m breaking down everything you need to know for a seamless trip from Florence to San Marino – including how to get there, what to do, where to eat, and all the must-see spots in just one day. If you’re looking for something unique and off the usual Italy itinerary, this is 100% it.

San Marino feels straight out of a fairytale. You’ve got medieval castles perched high on a ridgeline, winding streets that look like movie sets, and panoramic views that go on forever. Throw in a few cozy cafes, local shops, and a relaxed, low-key vibe, and I was sold.

Honestly, before planning my Florence itinerary, I hadn’t even heard of San Marino (kinda embarrassing, but hey, here we are). But once I saw how close it was, I couldn’t resist. I was SO close to hitting 50 countries and knew I had to squeeze this one in. And I’m so glad I did – how often do you get to casually pop into another country for the day?

Turns out, San Marino is actually one of the least-visited countries in the entire world. It’s also the third smallest in Europe (after Vatican City and Monaco), completely surrounded by Italy but 100% its own thing. You won’t need a passport to get in, but you’ll definitely want your camera. Think mountaintop hikes, ancient fortresses, and some seriously jaw-dropping views. San Marino totally caught me off guard in the best way.

A Little About San Marino

If you’re anything like me, you probably hadn’t even heard of San Marino before planning your Florence itinerary. I had no idea this teeny tiny mountaintop country even existed – let alone that it’s one of the oldest republics in the world. We’re talking way back in the year 301.

So, if you’re interested in learning a bit about San Marino, here’s the quick version: San Marino is its own country – not a town, not a province, not a quirky part of Italy. It’s completely surrounded by Italy but has stayed totally independent for over 1,700 years. It was started by a stonemason named Marinus who fled religious persecution and set up a little mountaintop community on Monte Titano. And somehow, despite popes, Napoleon, wars, and even Mussolini, San Marino held onto its independence and managed to never get swallowed up by Italy. Wild, right? 

Today, it still has its own government, postage stamps, and even border control (though it’s super chill and you won’t even need to show your passport if you’re coming from Italy). It uses the euro and feels very European… just in a “wait, I’m in a different country right now?” kind of way.

It’s super tiny – the third smallest country in Europe tiny – but full of quirky history, sweeping views, and that charming old-world vibe. Definitely not just another hilltop town (although I loved the ones we visited on our Puglia road trip!).

Is a Florence to San Marino Day Trip Worth It?

I think so! Despite kinda being a hassle to get to (there’s no direct train or bus and zero organized tours at this time), I’m so glad I made the effort to get to San Marino. On public transportation from Florence (practically the only way to get there), it takes almost 4 hours… so… decide ahead of time if you’re willing to make the trek. I’ll be going into detail about how to get there shortly.

Logistics for Taking a Florence to San Marino Day Trip

Where is San Marino

San Marino is a tiny independent country (the fifth smallest country on Earth – just under 24 square miles in size) completely landlocked by Italy, tucked away in the northeastern part of the Italian peninsula. It sits on the slopes of Mount Titano, about 3 hours southeast of Florence by car and roughly 30 – 45 minutes from the Adriatic coast. The closest big Italian city is Rimini, a lively coastal spot just 30 – 45 minutes away. 

How to Get From Florence to San Marino

So here’s the thing – San Marino doesn’t have its own train station or airport, so you can’t just hop on a direct train or flight into the country. Nope, this tiny hilltop republic makes you work for it a little (but hey, that’s half the fun, right?).

Driving: You’ve got a few options, but driving is definitely one of them. If you’re renting a car, it’s about 250 km (or 155 miles) from Florence to San Marino – roughly a 3-hour drive, depending on traffic. Totally doable as a day trip if you’re up for some highway time!

Public Transportation: First things first, just know it’s gonna take a few hours (unless you’re taking a ridiculously expensive taxi). Therefore, plan to leave early! For reference, I left Florence on a 6:55am train  (yes, 6:55 in the morning) and didn’t make it to San Marino until 10:30am. So practically 4 hours when you consider I had to first get myself to the train station in Florence. 

Do note there’s no direct transport from Florence to San Marino, so everyone will need to get to Rimini first (where there’s a bus straight to San Marino). If you’re staying in Florence and doing a day trip to San Marino like I was, you’ll need to transfer through Bologna to reach Rimini (train from Florence to Bologna, then train from Bologna to Rimini). It sounds pretty tricky but I promise you once you read the steps outlined before, it’s honestly pretty easy.

You can buy train and bus tickets on the day of, but I didn’t wanna have to deal with that before such a long journey, so I decided to buy them in advance. Whatever I can do to make my traveling easier I typically do, including buying transport tickets beforehand if possible (and sometimes it’s cheaper by doing this!).

Here’s exactly how you’ll get from Florence to San Marino (and exactly what I did):

  • Step 1: Train from Florence to Bologna. Take a fast train from Florence Santa Maria Novella to Bologna Centrale (about 35 minutes). I took the 6:55am Frecciarossa train and arrived at Bologna at 7:28am.
  • Step 2: Train from Bologna to Rimini. From Bologna Centrale, hop on another train to Rimini – it takes around 1.5 hours. I took the 8am InterCity and got to Rimini at 9:11am.
  • Step 3: Bonelli Bus from Rimini to San Marino. Time to get over the border! Catch the Bonelli bus from Rimini to San Marino (roughly 50 minutes). The bus stop in Rimini is right in front of the Napoleon Hotel, just a 3-minute walk from the train station. You’ll find plenty of other travelers waiting here, and the bus is really comfy! I took a 9:45am bus from Rimini to San Marino and arrived in San Marino at 10:33am. Told ya it’s a long trek!

I strongly recommend buying your bus ticket online beforehand (that’s what I did) or at the ticket office across the street from the train station in Rimini. Buying tickets on the bus isn’t the best idea – my bus was pretty full (actually pretty packed!), and I saw people get turned away and forced to wait for the next one. When I visited, the bus fare was 6 euros each way. Check out the latest schedule on the official bus website.

You’ll return back to Florence the same way you came! First with a bus from San Marino to Rimini, a train from Rimini to Bologna Centrale), and finally, another train from Bologna to Florence SMN. And yup, it takes just as long, haha. But you’ll quickly realize that although it seems like a complicated journey, it’s actually pretty simple once you start!

Psst: CARRY A PORTABLE PHONE BATTERY. I cannot stress this enough. Travel alone will take over 7 hours (3.5 hours each way), so you don’t wanna get stuck without any battery! Especially if your train and bus tickets are on your phone (I recommend printing them out juuuuust in case)!

How to Get Around San Marino

San Marino is tiny – like, walk-everywhere tiny. Once you get off the bus from Rimini, you’ll be dropped off right at the base of the historic center (also called San Marino City), and from there, it’s all on foot. Just be prepared to walk a lot; I think I walked over 20k steps that day despite sitting on the train/bus for over 7 hours!

And yes, I wore a dress, but I made sure to wear comfy sneakers for that very reason.

The old town is perched on a hilltop and full of cobblestone streets, narrow alleys, and epic views – not exactly car-friendly, but perfect for wandering. Everything you’ll want to see (like the Three Towers, the main squares, and all the cute little shops and cafes) is within walking distance. Just wear comfy shoes – there’s plenty of hills and stairs to climb (but I promise the views are worth it).

If you’re staying overnight and your hotel is farther from the center, there’s a local cable car that connects the lower town of Borgo Maggiore with the old town. It runs frequently and takes just a couple of minutes – plus, you get sweeping views on the way up!

Basically: no rental car, no Uber, no taxis needed. Your feet (and maybe the cable car) will get you everywhere you want to go.

When to Take a Day Trip to San Marino

San Marino is beautiful year-round, but if you’re aiming for clear skies, fewer crowds, and sweeping views (aka the dream combo), here’s what to keep in mind.

For reference, I took a day trip from Florence to San Marino in late June, and had practically perfect weather!

While it was hot, it was totally doable – just bring water and take breaks in the shade when you need to. July and August are peak tourist season, so expect more crowds and tour groups, especially midday. If you can, go on a weekday to avoid the weekend rush (and snap your pics without random tourists in the background, ha).

Spring (April – June) and early fall (September – October) are really the sweet spots: fewer people, still warm and sunny, and the views from the towers are crystal clear on a good day. Winter can be chilly and foggy, and some restaurants or attractions might have limited hours – plus, you’ll miss out on those iconic views if it’s super overcast.

Other Tips and FAQS about a Day Trip to San Marino

Fun Facts About San Marino

  • It’s really small. Like, blink-and-you-miss-it small. San Marino is the 5th smallest country in the world, and you can drive across it in under an hour.
  • They have their own army. Yep – this teeny country has a teeny army. It’s mostly ceremonial now, but they’ve got guards in fancy uniforms and everything.
  • You can get your passport stamped. Even though there’s no official border crossing, San Marino will happily stamp your passport for a few euros at the tourism office. It’s the cutest little souvenir. Stop by the visitor center/tourist office at the bottom of Monte Titano.
  • San Marino stayed neutral in both World Wars. Talk about minding your own business, haha. They even offered Hitler asylum (yikes), but then took in thousands of refugees from surrounding areas. So… mixed history there.
  • It’s tax-free heaven. Because it’s not part of the EU, people come here to shop tax-free. Expect perfume, watches, and leather bags galore.
  • They vote for two presidents. Every six months. Yes, six. They’re called Captains Regent, and it’s clearly been working for them.
  • It’s named after a real guy. Saint Marinus, a stonemason who became a saint and founded the country. Hence, San Marino! 

Frequently Asked Questions

How Long to Spend in San Marino: While you can easily spend all day in San Marino, especially if you wanna take advantage of all the quirky little museums, I spent around 5-6 hours wandering around and that was sufficient for me! 

Crowds in San Marino: A day trip from Florence to San Marino isn’t exactly on everyone’s Italy itinerary, so thankfully I found the crowds to be super manageable. Even during the high season in summer. A visit in the shoulder season (March to May and September to November) will be even less busy!  

Is English spoken? The official language in San Marino is Italian – everything from menus to street signs is in it. But thanks to the steady stream of tourists, English is fairly common, especially in restaurants, shops, and among younger locals. You won’t have trouble getting around if you don’t speak Italian, but it never hurts to learn a few basics (like ciao and grazie)! 

Fun fact: Although Sammarinese speak Italian, they’re exceptionally proud of their culture. So don’t call them Italians! San Marino also has its own traditional dialect – the Sammarinese variety of Romagnol. It’s mostly spoken by the older generation, and sadly, it’s now endangered. Linguists estimate it could go extinct after 2040 if preservation efforts don’t step in. So while you’ll likely never hear it on your visit, it’s a unique part of the country’s cultural identity.

Is a day trip to San Marino expensive? Honestly, not really! Even though you’re technically crossing into a whole new country (which sounds fancy), it’s actually super doable on a budget. The roundtrip bus from Rimini only cost me €12, and entry to the towers and museums is just a few euros each. Wandering the medieval streets, checking out the views, and snapping pics? Totally free. Plus, there’s plenty of restaurants and cafes where you can grab a meal without breaking the bank. 

That said, the roundtrip train ticket from Florence was a bit pricier than I expected – around €75 total. But considering it got me halfway across Italy and into a new country in just a few hours? Still 100% worth it in my book. I think I spent about €120 for the whole day (transport there and back, food, etc), and for a spontaneous border hop into one of the smallest countries in the world? Not bad at all.

Things to do in San Marino in One Day

Hike Between the Three Towers

This is the main thing to do on any Florence to San Marino day trip. And my favorite part of my visit! The trails are short but super scenic, and you’re never far from sweeping mountain views or stone pathways that look like something out of a fairy tale. Definitely do the first two towers and hike between them – skip the third unless you’re feeling very ambitious and the weather is cool. 

Psst – there’s free access to towers and museums for teachers, so bring your school staff ID!!! It was such a pleasant surprise when I was at the ticket counter about to purchase my entrance fee and didn’t have to. I love when places recognize the work teachers do! And in this case, an entire country! Thank you San Marino!

Here’s a bit about each one:

Rocca della Guaita (Prima Torre/First Tower)

This is the biggest and most iconic of San Marino’s three towers – and honestly, the main reason I took a day trip to San Marino! It’s the oldest stone fortress in the country (built way back in the 11th century!) and looks like something out of a medieval movie. Super photogenic, especially from the outside. Prima Torre (the First Tower) is even on the national flag AND the coat of arms of San Marino. Plus, it’s been a World Heritage Site since 2008!

From the top, you can see the other two towers, the surrounding countryside, and even the Adriatic Sea far off in the distance. PLUS the coastal (Italian) city of Rimini. If you can, go as high as you can within the tower – there’s some steep stairs and even a ladder at the end, but if you’re able, definitely go for it. It looked a bit nerve wracking at first but I made it up (and then back down).

Pretty amazing if you ask me! So many panoramic views! I loved exploring the small St. Barbara’s Chapel, the watchtower, and the bell tower. 

I explored the inside too (it’s a small museum now). Bring your camera for this one; it’s the one that pops up in all the postcards for a reason. So much history and architecture over here.

Once you’re done exploring Guaita (the first tower), continue on the path towards Cesta, the second tower.

Cesta Tower (Second Tower)

You can actually hike over to this one from the first tower – it’s not far and the walk is really scenic, with views all along the way and so many butterflies flying around (which I loved). The second tower is also a museum (Museum of Ancient Arms) and honestly worth the stop if you’re already on your way. Inside you’ll see everything from ancient weapons, uniforms, suits of armor, experimental weapons, and even prototypes. 

Most people say the first tower has the best views, but I have to disagree. I give that prize to Cesta, the second tower, simply because you actually get views of Guaita (which is impossible from Guaita itself, haha). Plus, it’s the highest at 755 meters above sea level!

Montale Tower (Third Tower)

Yeah… I’ll be real with you – skip this one. The Third Tower is the least impressive of all three. The hike there and back was super hot and tiring (through the forest on uneven cobblestone), and the tower itself isn’t even open to the public (and it’s the smallest of the three). No museum, no epic views like the others. Unless you’re dying for the extra exercise, it’s not worth the (long-ish) detour in the heat in my opinion.

Quirky Museums + Other Fun Finds in San Marino

While the Three Towers are definitely the star of the show, there’s more to explore in San Marino’s hilltop old town – especially if you’re into offbeat museums, scenic plazas, and casual wandering.

You’ll find a handful of quirky, bite-sized museums scattered throughout the historic center. If you’ve got extra time (or just want to escape the sun for a bit), check out the Museum of Curiosities, filled with odd inventions and fun facts from around the world. It’s weird in a good way, and perfect if you’re visiting with kids or just enjoy random, obscure trivia.

San Marino also has a surprisingly dark side when it comes to museums – think the Museum of Torture, the Vampire Museum, and the Wax Museum. These aren’t for everyone, but they definitely add some edge to what might otherwise feel like a super quaint day. Personally, I opted out of the museums, but they’re popular with visitors who enjoy that kind of morbid history. And it’s a great way to get outta the scorching sun.

A bit more traditional is the State Museum, home to local archaeological finds and cultural artifacts. It’s small, but a nice way to get a feel for San Marino’s incredibly long history – this is the world’s oldest republic, after all.

Piazza della Liberta + Palazzo Pubblico

Don’t miss Piazza della Liberta, one of the prettiest corners of the old town. This is where you’ll find the Palazzo Pubblico, aka San Marino’s government building. Stick around for the changing of the guard, which takes place every 30 minutes during the summer months – it’s surprisingly formal for such a tiny country, and definitely worth seeing if you’re already in the area. I somehow missed this on my day trip to San Marino (I was probably too busy oohing and aahing at all the views from the towers!).

Local tip: There’s free public wi-fi throughout this area, which is super helpful if you need to check transit times, download offline maps, or pull up a digital ticket (like I did). 

Views, Views, and More Views

Honestly, one of the best things to do in San Marino is just wander. The entire old town is perched on a mountain ridge, so you’ll find sweeping views around every corner – on a clear day, you can see all the way to the Adriatic Sea! 

It reminded me a little of Sintra in Portugal, but with far fewer crowds and a more mellow vibe. No colorful palaces here, but the pale stone buildings, medieval atmosphere, and quiet charm really grew on me. I’d take this over the chaos of more popular spots any day.

Shopping and Cafes

San Marino is duty-free, so if you’re into shopping, you might find some good deals – especially on leather goods, watches, perfume, and alcohol. That said, the old town shops are mostly geared toward tourists, and while it’s fun to browse, don’t expect super unique or artisanal products. Still, it’s worth poking around the side streets where prices tend to be lower and crowds thinner.

There’s also no shortage of cafes and casual wine bars, many with outdoor seating and dreamy views. It’s the perfect place to stop for a cappuccino, a quick piadina (local flatbread sandwich), or an Aperol spritz. I had a delicious bowl of pasta overlooking the countryside before heading back to Florence (for even more pasta, haha). 

So there ya have it, exactly how to do a day trip to San Marino from Florence! Overall, all good things to say about the tiny Republic of San Marino. Although, I think one visit is most likely enough, haha (meaning I won’t be making the long trek next time I’m in Italy). 

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One Week in Provence Itinerary: The Perfect Provence Road Trip https://apassionandapassport.com/one-week-in-provence-itinerary/ https://apassionandapassport.com/one-week-in-provence-itinerary/#respond Mon, 22 Sep 2025 06:05:25 +0000 https://apassionandapassport.com/?p=32633 Headed to the South of France and looking to visit Provence? Here’s the ultimate week in Provence itinerary guide! If you’ve been dreaming of lavender fields, medieval villages, and maybe a little seaside time on the French Riviera, Provence is your spot. It’s one of those places that feels straight out of a painting –Continue Reading

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Headed to the South of France and looking to visit Provence? Here’s the ultimate week in Provence itinerary guide!

If you’ve been dreaming of lavender fields, medieval villages, and maybe a little seaside time on the French Riviera, Provence is your spot. It’s one of those places that feels straight out of a painting – hilltop towns, vineyards, and rosé practically on tap. Such a dreamy area, and one I was super eager to finally visit!

You could easily spend months exploring the region, but if you’ve only got 5 days to a week in Provence, don’t worry – I’ve got you covered. This itinerary blends the best of the area: those iconic rolling lavender fields (if you’re here in season), charming villages perched on cliffs, long lunches with a glass of local wine, vibrant markets, and even a taste of the coast (including kayaking at the Calanques). We spent a week roadtripping Provence and it was one of our best trips yet! I just loved that laid-back sensory-rich lifestyle.

Here’s exactly how I spent my very own week in Provence, plus plenty of tips to help you craft an epic trip of your own.

Week in Provence Itinerary Logistics 

Where is Provence 

Provence isn’t just one town – it’s an entire region in the southeast of France, tucked between the Rhône River and the Mediterranean Sea. It stretches from the foothills of the Alps down to the coastline of the French Riviera, which means you’ll find everything from lavender fields and vineyards to sun-soaked fishing villages and seaside cliffs.

Provence is part of the larger Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur (PACA) region, which also includes the French Riviera cities like Nice, Cannes, and Monaco, as well as the Alpine towns farther north. In terms of location, it’s north of Marseille, west of the French Riviera, and just a few hours by train from Paris, making it easy to add to a France itinerary.

The area is made up of dozens of towns and villages, each with its own character – from larger cultural hubs like Avignon and Aix-en-Provence to tiny medieval hill towns like Gordes and Roussillon, and coastal gems like Cassis. The magic of Provence is that you don’t just stick to one spot – you road trip (or train hop) your way around, stringing together a mix of cities, villages, and countryside.

How to Get to Provence 

For your Provence itinerary, you’ll of course need to get there first! And thankfully, getting to Provence is easier than you might think – and you have a few options depending on where you’re coming from. The region is served by several airports, with Marseille Provence Airport being the biggest and most convenient for most travelers. You can also fly into Nice Côte d’Azur Airport if you want to start your trip along the French Riviera, or Avignon’s small airport for a quieter, more central entry point.

If you’re coming from Paris, trains are a great option. The high-speed TGV can get you to Avignon, Aix-en-Provence, or Marseille in around 3 hours, which is perfect if you want to skip the hassle of airports and rental cars for the start of your trip. 

Speaking of cars – renting a car is highly recommended if you want to explore the smaller villages and countryside, since public transport doesn’t reach all the hill towns and lavender fields.

Provence is also easy to reach by car from other parts of France – it’s a 2 – 3 hour drive from Lyon or Montpellier and just under 10 hours from Paris if you prefer a scenic road trip. Once you’re there, having a car gives you the freedom to hop between villages, vineyards, and viewpoints at your own pace – which is honestly the best way to experience the region.

We were coming from Cinque Terre, which ended up being a super long travel day. We took the train from Monterosso to Genoa (where we got some much-needed snacks), then hopped on another train from Genoa to Nice, with a short stop in Ventimiglia along the way. We finally picked up our rental car in Nice and finished the journey to Provence. 

It took over eight hours, multiple train changes, and a 2 hour drive. Combining Cinque Terre with my Provence itinerary and the French Riviera probably wasn’t the best idea I’ve ever had, but hey – we made it work! Just know it can be done!

How to Get Around Provence 

Renting a Car

As I noted above, renting a car is by far the easiest way to explore Provence, especially if you wanna hit the hilltop villages, lavender fields, and vineyards at your own pace. I mean, it’s a Provence road trip afterall! Driving gives you the freedom to wander down winding country roads, stop at viewpoints, and explore towns that aren’t easy to reach by public transport. Honestly, it’s one of the best ways to experience the region.

The beauty of Provence is that you don’t just stay in one place. Instead, you hop around, exploring one postcard-perfect town after another, which makes it the perfect destination for a road trip.

Psst – I like to search this site to see what supplier has the best deal going on. Also, remember to double check if the car is manual or automatic transmission – many cars in Europe are manual. They’re typically less expensive than renting an automatic, but only rent one if you can actually drive one!

Driving in Provence: Roads in Provence are generally well-maintained, but many of the smaller villages have narrow, cobblestone streets and limited parking, so be prepared to park outside the center and walk in. Roundabouts are common, and locals drive fast, so a little patience goes a long way. 

There were a few moments when we drove down really tiny, winding streets (like crazy narrow), and we honestly weren’t sure we’d make it through. My husband handled all the driving on our Provence road trip – and let’s just say I’m really glad he’s a better driver than I am!

Guided Day Tours

Don’t wanna rent a car? No problem – you can still see plenty of this Provence itinerary. Base yourself in a larger town like Aix-en-Provence (my choice) or Avignon and book guided day tours. These tours often cover multiple villages or scenic routes, such as lavender fields during the blooming season. 

Many tours also include wine tastings, local markets, or historical sites, providing a comprehensive experience without the need for a car. Definitely book in advance if you’re visiting during high season (these tours are popular for a reason!). 

Here’s a few guided day tours that I would have booked if we didn’t rent a car:

Trains and Regional Buses

There’s also trains and regional buses connecting the larger towns, which work well if you’re sticking mostly to cities and a few nearby villages.

  • ZOU! Regional Bus Network: Operated by the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur Region, ZOU! offers extensive bus services connecting towns and villages across the region. These buses are ideal for reaching destinations not served by trains. 
  • TER Sud Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur: The regional train network, known as TER (Transport Express Régional), connects major cities like Marseille, Aix-en-Provence, Avignon, and Nice. These trains are convenient for intercity travel and accessing nearby towns. 

But to be completely honest, a Provence road trip really is the way to go. I’d only opt for day tours and public transit if driving is definitely not a possibility. 

When to Plan Your Provence Itinerary 

Spring (March – May): Spring is a beautiful time to visit if you want mild weather and fewer crowds. Daytime temperatures usually range from 55–70°F (13–21°C), perfect for exploring villages and countryside without the summer heat.

Summer (June – August): Summer is peak season in Provence, and LAVENDER season (typically from late June to mid July)! Daytime highs can reach 85–95°F (29–35°C), especially inland, so be prepared for intense heat (and slather on that sunscreen). Coastal areas along the French Riviera are slightly cooler (hooray!) but busier (womp womp).

A note on lavender season: If seeing lavender fields is a priority during your week in Provence (like it was for me!), aim for late June through mid July, depending on the year. The most famous fields are around Valensole Plateau, Luberon, and Sault, so plan your route accordingly. Depending on the heat, some lavender fields will be harvested earlier than others, so you may need to drive around to find patches still in bloom.

For reference, I planned our Provence itinerary for early July and had really great weather! Yes, it was hot, especially inland, and we unfortunately came across a lot of bees at our hotel pools, but it didn’t stop us from enjoying the sun-soaked afternoons, relaxing by the pool, and exploring nearby villages. And it was peak lavender season, meaning tons of time in the fields and lots of lavender ice cream!

Fall (September – October): I kinda wish we visited in early fall (although I am glad we got to see the stunning lavender fields). Temps range from 65–80°F (18–27°C), still warm enough for outdoor meals and wine tasting, while the crowds thin out and vineyards are busy with harvest season.

Winter (November – February): Winters are quiet and peaceful. Daytime highs usually sit around 50–60°F (10–16°C), while nights can drop into the 30s–40s°F (0–5°C). It’s too cold for lavender or beach days, but perfect for exploring villages and cultural sites without the crowds, plus accommodations are often cheaper.

Is a week in Provence enough?

I certainly think so! Our Provence itinerary was exactly a week, and we were able to visit half a dozen villages and charming cities, go market shopping, run through the lavender fields, go paddleboating on the stunning Verdon Gorge, and eat to our hearts’ content. I was satisfied with our time there and don’t feel like we missed anything major. 

The region is much larger than most people realize (with over 400 towns/villages), so don’t expect to visit each and every one with only a week in Provence. You’ll likely need over a month to even scratch the surface! I’ve included the ones we visited, but just know there are SO many Provence itinerary iterations you’ll come across on your research. I recommend a combination of small towns and larger cities so you don’t get bored, and of course a little time on the Mediterranean (my favorite)! 

If you want to shorten this Provence road trip to 5 days, I’d stick to Moustiers-Sainte-Marie and L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue (and the areas nearby). This gives you a perfect balance of nature, countryside drives, and charming villages, without feeling rushed.

But I really recommend a full week in Provence so you can add Cassis at the end for a taste of the Mediterranean, cliffside views, and a few relaxing beach or harbor hours!

Where to Stay in Provence 

Choosing a home base for your Provence itinerary really depends on the kind of trip you want to have – whether you’re chasing villages, vineyards, or the coast. One of the joys of Provence is that you don’t have to stay in just one place, and splitting your time between a couple of towns makes a road trip much easier.

I recommend splitting up your week in Provence into 2-3 bases from which you can explore the region. This makes it easy to see a mix of villages, countryside, and even the coast without feeling like you’re spending all your time in the car (the absolute worst).

Some hotels are absolutely gorgeous, and come with a hefty price tag. I recommend thinking about how much time you wanna enjoy the hotels, or if you’d rather be out exploring. We stayed in modest places for this trip, but I think I’d prefer splurging a bit more next time and give us time to soak in the charm and relax. This trip was very go-go-go, and while I’m glad we got to see and do so much, sometimes our bodies just crave rest (at a nice hotel with a stunning pool, haha)!

For our 7-day Provence road trip, we stayed in three separate areas and took day trips from each:

  • Moustiers-Sainte-Marie: Perfect if you want to wake up to lavender fields and hilltop village views. Staying here gave us that quintessential Provence experience, though accommodations are usually smaller boutique hotels or guesthouses rather than large resorts (which is totally cool with me!).
  • L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue: To be completely honest, we didn’t love our stay here. It was a bit too sleepy for us, we didn’t book a great place to stay (better options listed below), and in hindsight, we wish we had stayed in the much larger Aix-en-Provence instead. That said, it’s still a charming town with markets, canals, and cafés if you enjoy a slower pace. And a great base to visit other towns in the Luberon, like Gordes, Roussillon, etc.
  • Cassis: If you’re extending your Provence trip to 7 days, consider a night or two on the coast. Cassis is perfect for harbor-side walks, boat rides, and cliffside viewpoints, and you can find hotels or guesthouses with sea views and pools for a relaxing finale.
    • HPC Suites – Cassis Centre (10 minute walk to the beach, full kitchen access, and views over Cassis harbor)
    • L’Âme Bleue (beachfront apartment with 2 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms – perfect for a family!)
    • Seaview.Cassis (apartment with stunning sea views and direct beachfront access)

Other great towns to consider for your bases include Avignon, which offers a mix of city vibes and easy access to nearby villages, or Aix-en-Provence, perfect for culture lovers, foodies, and market wanderers. Regardless, I think you should split your time between larger towns and smaller villages.

Other Tips for Visiting Provence  

  • Currency: Provence is in France, so you’ll need euros (€). ATMs are widely available in towns, but smaller villages may not have easy access, so it’s good to have some cash on hand.
  • Carry cash for markets: Many local markets and small shops still prefer cash, especially for small purchases like fresh produce, cheese, or flowers. Bring a mix of coins and bills just in case.
  • Check market days in advance: Each town has its own schedule, and some markets only happen on specific days of the week. Planning ahead ensures you don’t miss the best local food and artisan goods. 
  • Markets often close mid-afternoon: Most markets in Provence start in the morning and wrap up by early afternoon (usually around 1 – 2 PM). Plan your visits accordingly if you want the full experience.
  • Language: French is the official language. English is spoken in larger tourist areas, but in small villages or local shops, it’s helpful to know a few basic phrases like bonjour (hello), merci (thank you), s’il vous plaît (please), and parlez-vous anglais? (do you speak English?).
  • Timing and crowds: Popular towns and lavender fields can get busy in summer (like, really busy), especially late June – early August. Start your days early to beat the crowds and get the best photos.
  • Be mindful of siesta hours: Some smaller shops and restaurants may close for a few hours in the afternoon, usually between 12:30–3:30 PM, so plan your shopping and meals around that.
  • Reservations for popular restaurants: Especially in summer, restaurants in smaller villages and towns can fill up quickly. Making a reservation ahead of time is definitely a good idea. If there’s anywhere you’re dying to eat at, check if they take reservations. If they do, make it ASAP once you know your dates.
  • Wear comfortable shoes: Many villages have cobblestone streets, stairs, and uneven paths, so bring sturdy, comfortable shoes for walking. With that being said, if you’ve got a stroller, be prepared to carry it up and down stairs (or bring a baby carrier instead).
  • Driving tips: If you’re renting a car, remember that many villages have narrow streets and limited parking, so plan to park outside the village center and walk in.
  • Bees near lavender: If visiting lavender fields, especially in peak bloom, watch out for bees. They’re usually harmless but can be persistent.

What to Eat in Provence 

Provence is a food lover’s dream – fresh, vibrant, and full of flavor. It was one of the things I was most excited for when visiting! Don’t miss ratatouille, tapenade, aioli, local cheeses, and olives, and if you’re a wine fan, make time for rosé from the vineyards. 

Markets are perfect for grabbing fresh bread, buttery croissants, seasonal fruits, ripe tomatoes, heirloom vegetables, nuts, and local charcuterie. You can even pick up lavender honey, artisan jams, or handmade pastries for a snack on the go. Small local restaurants serve hearty, traditional dishes that are perfect after a day of exploring villages or lavender fields. And of course, don’t skip dessert – tarts, fruit galettes, and lavender-infused treats are everywhere! Yum!

Week in Provence Road Trip Itinerary 

But first, a few notes about this Provence itinerary:

  • This Provence itinerary assumes you have a full 7 days in the region. Meaning if your flight arrives mid-day or late at night, you’ll want an extra day in order to see and do all the things on this itinerary.
  • You’ll want to check market days before visiting. Don’t assume the markets will be open every day of the week, even in high season. I wouldn’t necessarily switch your flight for the markets, but it’s fun to experience one or two!
  • We rented a car, so this Provence itinerary assumes you do the same. Visiting the highlights is possible without one, but you definitely will have a harder time finding transport to the smaller villages.
  • Start your days early if you want to beat crowds at popular villages, lavender fields, and viewpoints. It’s a truly stunning region, and its popularity shows!

Provence Itinerary At-A-Glance 

  • Day 1: Lavender fields and Moustiers-Sainte-Marie
  • Day 2: Verdon Gorge and Nearby
  • Day 3: l’isle Sur La Sorgue and Fontaine de Vaucluse
  • Day 4: Rousillon and Gordes 
  • Day 5: Aix-en-Provence and Marsailles
  • Day 6: Cassis 
  • Day 7: Cassis  

Day 1: Lavender Fields and Moustiers-Sainte-Marie

Morning: Lavender fields near Valensole at sunrise!

No summer in Provence feels complete without lavender – it’s the very essence of a Provençal summer after all! And where better to see it than the Plateau de Valensole, home to the most iconic lavender fields in all of France (and maybe even the world)!

Yes, I’m telling you to wake up early on the first day of this Provence road trip – but trust me, sunrise is worth it. At golden hour, the fields glow in soft light, the crowds are minimal, and your photos turn out so much better without those harsh midday shadows. Even if you’re not here in peak season (late June to mid-July), the drive itself is beautiful, with rolling hills of olive groves and sunflowers.

I loved the fields so much I dragged my husband back for sunset, too (he wasn’t thrilled, haha). Sunset is more crowded than sunrise, but the colors are just as magical.

Photography + Practical Tips
If you want those classic Provençal shots, bring a white dress and straw hat (like I did!). Just be mindful of the fields: walk between the rows (definitely not on them) since lavender is delicate. And don’t be surprised by the bees – they’re everywhere, but as long as you leave them alone, they’ll (most likely) leave you alone too.

Quick note: Lavender is usually harvested by early August, but timing depends on the heat. Check recent posts on Instagram or Google Map reviews before you head out so you don’t wake up at dawn for an empty field.

Must-See Lavender Spots on the Plateau de Valensole

  • Tiny Stone House in the Valley: Probably the most photogenic spot on the plateau. It sits tucked into a dip in the field, so you’ll barely see it from the road (Google Maps coordinates: 43.893751, 6.116192). You’ll need to walk in a bit to get the view – but once you spot it, it’s magic.
  • Lavandes Angelevin: A picture-perfect combo of lavender and sunflowers, just 15 minutes from the stone house. We skipped this one since we already have sunflower fields back home in California, but if you don’t – go!
  • Other Fields Along Route de la Lavande: Honestly, the whole plateau is covered in fields. Drive around, pull off when you see a pretty spot, and just wander. Some people even rent bikes to explore more slowly.

We visited the tiny town of Valensole afterwards, and to be quite honest, didn’t find much there. I’m not sure if we visited during an off time (or if it was just too early before the town woke up), but I wouldn’t mind skipping it next time. Especially since there’s so many other charming villages nearby!

Afternoon: Explore Moustiers-Sainte-Marie

Once you’re done smelling the lavender (and taking a million pictures), it’s time to explore the charming village of Moustiers-Sainte-Marie!

Moustiers is one of those villages that looks like it was designed for postcards – pastel shutters, cobblestone lanes, and dramatic cliffs rising up behind it. Plan to spend about 4 – 5 hours here, which is enough time to wander, shop, and relax without rushing.

Here’s what to include on your visit:

  • Ceramic shops: Moustiers is famous for its faïence pottery, a tradition dating back to the Middle Ages. Even if you don’t plan to buy anything, it’s fun to pop into the little ateliers and browse.
  • The star of Moustiers: Look up and you’ll see the golden star hanging between two cliffs above the town. Legend says it was placed there by a knight returning from the Crusades, and it’s become the town’s symbol.
  • Notre-Dame de Beauvoir Chapel: If you’re up for a climb (about 262 stone steps), head up to this small chapel above the town. The view over Moustiers and the valley is incredible.
  • Waterfall views: A stream runs through the center of town, cascading down into little waterfalls. It makes the whole village feel extra fairytale-like.
  • Lunch or coffee in the square: Take a break in one of the cafés in Place de l’Église, perfect for people-watching and soaking up the atmosphere.
  • Église Notre-Dame de l’Assomption: Right in the heart of town, this Romanesque church is worth stepping inside for a quick look.

If you have a bit of extra time, you could also browse the weekly market (if your visit falls on a Friday morning/early afternoon by chance). 

Where to Stay: Moustiers-Sainte-Marie 

Day 2: Verdon Gorge and Beyond

Morning: Paddling on Verdon Gorge

No trip to Provence is complete without seeing the Verdon Gorge, often called the Grand Canyon of France. The turquoise water is absolutely unreal in person (don’t just trust me, see it for yourself!). And it’s only 15 minutes from Moustiers, meaning you can’t not go! 

Ever since that first photo I saw of the gorge on social media, I knew I needed to add it to our Provence road trip. And WHOA – I’m so glad we did! We had such a fun morning paddling around and taking in the views.

I have an entire blog post dedicated to our time paddling around Verdon Gorge (go check that out!), but here’s a few quick notes:

  • Rent a kayak or paddle boat right at the bridge at Pont du Galetas (the most popular access point). Rentals usually cost about €20 – €25 for an hour and go up if you want longer. Kayaks, canoes, and pedal boats are all available.
  • In July and August, lines can get long, so aim to arrive by 9:30 – 10am if you want to avoid waiting.
  • Expect to paddle about 2 km into the gorge – the cliffs rise dramatically above you, and it’s pure magic.
  • There’s no facilities once you’re in the gorge, so bring snacks, drinks, sunscreen, and water shoes if you’ve got them. The rocky edges aren’t fun barefoot. We stocked up on drinks and snacks in town the day before (there’s not tons at Verdon Gorge, although a few options for drinks and ice cream which we happily bought afterwards).
  • Swimming is allowed, but the water is chilly even in summer – refreshing after paddling!

And yes, wear that bright swimsuit – it pops against the blue water in photos. 

Late Morning: Scenic Drive

If you’ve still got energy, take the Route des Crêtes (Ridge Road). The 23 km loop is packed with jaw-dropping viewpoints. Some of the most famous stops include Belvédère de la Carelle and Balcon de la Mescla. Allow 1.5–2 hours with photo stops. 

We decided to skip this because we were already pretty knocked out after all that time in the sun at the gorge and my husband didn’t wanna add extra time to our already pretty long drive to L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue (our next base).

Afternoon: Stop at L’Occitane en Provence

You’re in Provence! Meaning you’ve gotta stop at L’Occitane en Provence! On your way out of the gorge area, make a quick stop at the L’Occitane factory in Manosque (about an hour’s drive). 

You can book a tour in advance (around €6 per person) or just shop at the boutique. It’s one of those places that are right on the way so might as well go check it out! We picked up a few hand creams and they all smelled so good!

Afternoon: Optional Detours

  • Apt: This town is famous for its candied fruit (fruits confits) and local markets. If you’re there on a Saturday morning, the market is a must-see, offering cheeses, olives, lavender products, and regional specialties. It’s also a good lunch/snack stop before heading to L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue.
  • Saignon: A picturesque hilltop village with cobblestone streets, small cafés, and panoramic views over the Luberon valley. It’s a perfect 30 – 45 minute stop to stretch your legs and take photos.

Evening: Drive to L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

From the gorge, it’s about a 2.5-hour drive to L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue (or less from Apt or Saignon), where you’ll base yourself next. 

Where to Stay: L’Isle -sur-la-Sorgue or nearby town

Day 3: l’isle Sur La Sorgue and nearby towns

Morning: Explore L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue 

Start your morning wandering through L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, a riverside town with canals, waterwheels, and a laid-back Provençal vibe. It’s often called the antiques capital of Provence, and you’ll see why – antique shops and art galleries line the streets.

If you’re lucky enough to be here on a Sunday, don’t miss the famous market (7am – 2pm). It’s one of the largest in Provence (it’s huge!), with antiques, Provençal linens, soaps, fresh produce, cheeses, olives, and tons more spilling throughout the town. We didn’t buy much (no space in our small suitcases since we were traveling for 3 weeks in a carry-on), but it was still super fun to look at everything and even more fun to people-watch! 

PS – if you’re visiting L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue for the market and not staying overnight like we were, it will be extremely difficult to find a parking spot. Plan to arrive by 9am (the latest!) and pray you get a spot!

If you’re not here on a Sunday, there’s a smaller version on Thursdays that still brings plenty of charm. And if tomorrow happens to be Sunday for you, you can easily switch around Day 3 and Day 4! Or even swing by the market on Day 5 before heading to Aix-en-Provence if that’s when Sunday is.

We had lunch at Restaurant Le Vivier, just outside the center. It’s a Michelin-recognized spot right on the river – perfect if you’re looking for a special meal (you’re in Provence – that’s reason enough for something special!). It was recommended to us by friends (they raved about it), and it was worth the short drive outta town. Otherwise, there are plenty of cafés and bistros in town.

Afternoon: Driving Loop Through the Luberon Villages

After lunch, hit the road for a mini loop through some of the most charming villages in the Luberon. Provence is perfect for scenic drives and aimless wandering through its villages, so that’s exactly what I recommend doing next! Here’s a few recommendations!

  • Fontaine-de-Vaucluse (15 min from L’Isle): Home to the emerald-green Sorgue River, which gushes straight out of the rocks. The walk to the spring is short and scenic, though this spot can feel touristy, so plan for just a quick stop.
  • Ménerbes (20 min from Fontaine): A quiet, picture-perfect hilltop village surrounded by vineyards and olive groves. Picasso once lived here (yes, THE Picasso), and it’s a lovely place for a stroll with fewer crowds.
  • Bonnieux (15 min from Ménerbes): A gorgeous medieval village with some of the best valley views in Provence. Climb up to the old church for a sweeping panorama, or simply wander the cobblestone streets with a gelato or coffee in hand.
  • Lourmarin (optional, 30 min from Bonnieux): If time allows, continue to Lourmarin, one of the most stylish villages in the region. Known for its Renaissance château, boutique shops, and lively Friday market, it’s a fun spot to end the afternoon.

Psst: If you’d rather visit Avignon instead, this is the perfect day to do so since it’s only about a 35 minute drive west from L’Isle -sur-la-Sorgue. BUT I heard Avignon is pretty city-like and we wanted more of a village storybook feel, so we skipped it! Saint-Rémy-de-Provence also isn’t far from L’Isle -sur-la-Sorgue, but we couldn’t fit everything in and had to pick and choose, so again, skipped it! Saint-Remy is further from the other villages, so we prioritized the ones in the Luberon Valley.

From here, drive back toward L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue for the evening (1 hour from Lourmarin, or 35 min if heading straight back from Bonnieux).

Where to Stay: L’Isle -sur-la-Sorgue or nearby town

Day 4:  Rousillon and Gordes 

Time to visit two of the most popular villages in all of Provence – Roussillon and Gordes! Roussillon is famous for its ochre cliffs (you can walk the Ochre Trail for insane colors), while Gordes is your classic hilltop village with sweeping valley views. I highly recommend visiting both as they’ve got extremely different feels.

Morning: Roussillon

Kick off your day in Roussillon, a village that looks like it’s been painted in every shade of red, orange, and gold. I swear, every single building in town is one of these few colors! It sits in the heart of Provence’s Luberon Regional Park and is famous for the ochre deposits that were once mined here. Nearly every building in town is plastered with ochre pigments, giving the streets a warm glow that changes with the light. Safe to say I absolutely loved photographing it!

Start by strolling through the narrow lanes lined with cafés, art galleries, and little shops selling local ceramics and ochre pigments you can take home (Atelier Marchand de couleurs was one of my favorites). The whole place feels like a natural art palette.

One of the best things to do here is walk the Ochre Trail (Sentier des Ocres), a short, easy hike (choose between a 30 or 60 minute loop) that winds through the ochre cliffs and abandoned quarries. The rock formations come in surreal shapes and fiery colors that contrast beautifully with the green pines above. Even if you’re not a “hiker,” it’s well worth it – just don’t wear your best shoes, because the dust will cling and white shoes will turn red (kinda like what happened to me in Uluru, Australia!).

For a little local flavor, you can also pop into the Conservatoire des Ocres et de la Couleur (Ochre Conservatory), set in a former ochre factory. It gives a deeper look into how ochre was used historically in paint, textiles, and art.

A few additional tips:

  • What to wear: If you wanna coordinate your outfit to your surroundings, white or light green outfits look amazing against the orange backdrop for photos. I recommend wearing earth tones as bold pops don’t really match!
  • Timing: Plan for 2 – 3 hours here – enough time for a relaxed wander, the Ochre Trail, and maybe a coffee or pastry in the village square.
  • Parking info: There are two main paid parking lots at the edge of the village (follow the “Parking” signs as you approach). They’re just a short 5 – 10 minute walk uphill into the center, and it’s best to arrive early in the morning to snag a spot before all the other day-trippers roll in.

Afternoon: Gordes

Once you’ve soaked up all the golden tones in Roussillon, it’s just a 15-minute drive to Gordes, one of Provence’s most iconic hilltop villages. Here, take your time strolling the cobblestone streets, popping into boutiques, and soaking in the sweeping views of the Luberon valley below. I especially loved seeing the stone houses stacked into the hillside – it’s such a unique sight you don’t come across every day!

As you explore the tiny lanes, you’ll find shops selling Provençal linens, lavender products, and olive oil, along with art galleries tucked behind heavy wooden doors. We ended up relaxing with drinks at Airelles Gordes once we got sick of the summer sun, and honestly, I could’ve sat there all afternoon just taking in those incredible views.

I noticed that Gordes has a much more polished, upscale, and chic vibe compared to some of the other hilltop villages in Provence. It’s beautifully maintained, with golden-stone buildings, neatly cobbled streets, and elegant boutiques and cafés. While it still has that classic Provençal charm, it feels a bit more refined, whereas villages like Roussillon or Moustiers-Sainte-Marie feel more quaint, rustic, and lived-in. It definitely pays to visit them all to see the differences (kinda like on our Puglia road trip – another great region to road trip in Europe)!

Honestly, Gordes is more about aimlessly strolling, sipping rosé, and taking in the sweeping valley views than actual things to check off. But here’s a few if you’d like to structure out your afternoon a bit.

  • Gordes Viewpoint: This is the classic photo spot you’ve seen in all the IG posts and postcards. Stop here for a panoramic shot of the town clinging to the cliffs. We stopped here on our way out since the lighting was nicer later in the afternoon. Put in “Town View Point Gordes” on Google Maps and you’ll find it right away. Note that there’s a small parking spot a bit further down the road, but it does get busy. Thankfully most people only stay a few minutes, so you can usually grab a spot without waiting too long.
  • Lunch in Gordes: If you’re looking for a splurge-worthy meal, I HIGHLY recommend Hotel Les Bories & Spa. It’s set in a peaceful location with a poolside restaurant and Michelin-star dining. Perfect for a leisurely Provençal lunch before continuing your sightseeing. We LOVED this spot, and after seeing the hotel grounds a bit, we kinda wish we had splurged and stayed here for a night!
  • Saint Firmin Palace and Cellars: Step inside this Renaissance palace to explore its underground rooms and wine cellars carved right into the rock.
  • Village des Bories (just outside town): An open-air museum showcasing traditional dry-stone huts that once served as shelters and farm buildings.
  • Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque: A working abbey surrounded by lavender fields (best viewed late June to mid-July). It’s one of the most photographed lavender spots in Provence (for good reason). When we visited midday it was especially crowded and parking was practically nonexistent so we only saw it from afar.

Where to Stay: L’Isle -sur-la-Sorgue or nearby town

Day 5: Aix-en-Provence and Marseilles

Morning: Aix-en-Provence

This was probably one of our favorite stops on our entire Provence road trip! I think we were starting to crave larger towns after a few days in such remote tiny villages, so we really enjoyed the lively energy. AND the entire city is downright gorgeous. There’s tons of elegant squares, more fountains than you could ever imagine, pastel-colored facades, and leafy streets. 

Aix is a vibrant, elegant university town with a mix of history, culture, and modern life. It has a more urban, polished feel than the smaller hilltop villages, but it still keeps that Provençal charm. The city feels lively, with cafés spilling onto squares, street performers, and students giving it an energetic buzz.

While I could honestly stroll the small city all day, here’s a few highlights not to miss:

  • Stroll Cours Mirabeau: The wide, tree-lined boulevard is the heart of Aix, perfect for a morning coffee or breakfast outdoors. Enjoy the fountains, lively cafés, and people-watching.
  • Explore Vieil Aix (Old Town): Wander the narrow streets, charming squares, artisan shops, and pastel-colored façades. Aimless wandering here is a must!
  • Visit the Markets: Aix has fantastic markets for fresh produce, flowers, olive oil, cheeses, and local specialties. The biggest is on Saturdays, but smaller ones happen Tuesday and Thursday.
  • See the Fountains: Aix is known as the “City of a Thousand Fountains.” Don’t miss the decorative ones like Fontaine de la Rotonde and others sprinkled through the streets.
  • Paul Cézanne’s Studio & Nearby Landscapes: Visit the studio of the famous painter and stroll through spots that inspired his work. Great for art and history lovers.
  • Grab a Light Lunch or Pastry: Stop at a café in one of the picturesque squares to soak up the lively, elegant Aix vibe before heading to your next destination.

Afternoon: Marseille 

It’s time to head to the coast! Marseille is a bustling, gritty, and culturally rich port city with a very different feel from the quaint villages of Provence. It’s energetic and diverse, blending modern urban life with historic charm. The city has a vibrant arts scene, colorful neighborhoods, and a strong Mediterranean identity. It feels rawer and more lived-in than polished towns like Gordes or Aix, which is part of its appeal.

Here’s how you can spend the rest of your day:

  • Old Port (Vieux-Port): Start your afternoon strolling along the harbor. Watch the fishermen sell their catch, admire the boats, and maybe grab a coffee or rosé at one of the waterfront cafés. We got ice cream and sat on a bench overlooking the port – my favorite thing to do!
  • Le Panier: Wander through Marseille’s oldest neighborhood just a short walk from the port. There’s lots of little artisan shops to explore (with plenty of places to buy the famous decorative soaps), street art, and charming squares.
  • Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde: Take a taxi, bus, or drive up to this iconic hilltop church for panoramic views of the city and coastline. It’s a must-see landmark and perfect for photos. We passed by on our drive but were itching to get to the coast so we just admired it from the car window.

End the day by driving to Cassis (only about 45 minutes away) – the last official stop on this Provence road trip itinerary!

Where to Stay: Cassis

Days 6-7: Cassis 

If you’ve got a full week in Provence, head to the coast for a change of scenery – specifically, the postcard-perfect town of Cassis. Tucked between dramatic limestone cliffs and the sparkling Mediterranean, Cassis is like a low-key, charming cousin to the glitzy Riviera hotspots like Nice or Cannes.

The waterfront is lined with colorful old buildings, fishing boats, and casual spots to grab a drink or bite to eat. It’s the kind of place where you can just wander, sit by the water, and not feel like you have to do much of anything.

Cassis is often compared to St. Tropez, but it’s much more low-key – no big scene, just good food, great views, and a slower rhythm. It’s also the jumping-off point for visiting the Calanques, which you definitely need to do while here!

Even though there’s not TONS to do in this charming seaside town (no FOMO allowed!), here’s a few recommendations for your 2 days in Cassis. Whatever you do, don’t miss the Calanques!

Port de Cassis

The harbor in Cassis (Port de Cassis) is the heart of the town and the perfect spot to hang out. We grabbed a table by the water and ended up people (and boat) watching for way longer than planned. With pastel houses lining the waterfront and fishing boats bobbing in front, it’s ridiculously photogenic and full of buzzing restaurants.

Some of the restaurants are crazy overpriced though, so definitely scope out the menu before you sit down. For food, I’d go with Chez Gilbert if you want a proper bouillabaisse or Le Grand Large for fresh oysters and grilled fish. A lot of places do prix-fixe menus at lunch that are way more affordable than dinner, which is perfect if you want to splurge on seafood (and maybe a glass of crisp white wine) without blowing your whole budget. We loved sharing a meat and cheese board a bit before sunset!

The port gets busy, but that’s part of the vibe – colorful buildings, packed terraces, everyone lingering over long meals. And if you’re planning to see the Calanques, the boat tours leave right from here, so it’s super convenient. We found ourselves at the port multiple times a day!

Swim or sunbathe at Plage de la Grande Mer

Welcome to the Mediterranean! Time to take a tip! Plage de la Grande Mer, the main beach in Cassis, is just a quick stroll from the harbor so it’s super easy to get to. It’s family-friendly, with calm water and gorgeous views of the cliffs. Just know it’s pebbly (not sandy), so water shoes really come in handy.

The beach can get absolutely packed by midday in summer, so if you want a quieter vibe, head down in the morning or swing by closer to sunset. Shade is basically nonexistent, so bring an umbrella or plan to rent a sunbed early. There are a few kiosks and cafés nearby for snacks, but plenty of people pack a picnic and make an afternoon of it.

If you’re after clearer water and a slightly less chaotic scene, walk over to Plage du Bestouan. This smaller cove is rockier, but it’s perfect for swimming and snorkeling – and you’ll spot more locals than tourists. But don’t be fooled – it’s still wildly crowded. 

Parking near the beaches can be a real headache in peak season, so if you’re driving, aim for early morning. The lots closest to Plage de la Grande Mer fill up fast, but there’s overflow parking up the hill with a free shuttle that’ll drop you right by the beach.

Explore the colorful town center

Cassis is compact and super walkable, so there’s no rush – just take your time wandering the narrow streets. I loved stumbling across boutique shops selling everything from handmade ceramics to chic summer dresses, and little art galleries tucked behind heavy wooden doors. And yes, there’s even a Havaianas shop if you desperately need some new flip flops. Grab a Tarte Tropézienne from La Tarte Tropézienne Pâtisserie Viennoiserie Sandwicherie Pain, a speciality of the region.

Don’t miss the local market on Wednesdays and Fridays. It’s full of fresh produce, fragrant herbs, artisanal soaps, and colorful Provençal textiles. Too bad I was traveling carry-on only!

Take a boat tour to the Calanques

By far the #1 thing to do in Cassis – the famous turquoise Calanques! And the easiest and most relaxing way to see the famous Calanques is by boat, which is what we did – my husband isn’t exactly a hiker (fair enough, it’s his vacation too). Tours leave regularly from the Cassis harbor and range from 45 minutes to 2 hours. Even the shorter ones offer incredible views of the limestone cliffs and turquoise inlets, including Calanque de Port-Miou, Port-Pin, and the dramatic En-Vau. 

Make sure to book in advance during high season or show up early in the day for the best time slots. Bring a hat and water – there’s no shade on deck, but the views are totally worth it.

If you wanna get a little more active but stay on the water, sign up for a sea kayaking trip in the Calanques! This is the exact tour I wish we had done – it looks absolutely incredible! Next time for me!

Hike the Calanques for unforgettable views

If you’re up for some adventure, hiking into the Calanques is an incredible way to experience the landscape up close. The most popular (and most photographed) hike is to Calanque d’En-Vau, which rewards you with jaw-dropping views and a stunning beach at the end. The most common route is from the Port-Miou parking area, passing through Calanque de Port-Pin and continuing to En-Vau. 

You can either hike yourself or join a guided tour with a local (who will undoubtedly know all the best scenic spots) – that’s what I’d do if I was traveling solo (like when I hiked the Seven Hanging Valleys Trail in Portugal)!

  • Distance: ~6 km round-trip (3.7 miles)
  • Time: 2.5 – 3.5 hours depending on pace and stops
  • Difficulty: Moderate to challenging – rocky terrain, some steep sections, and little shade.

Come prepared! Wear proper shoes, bring plenty of water, and go early in the day to beat the heat and crowds. The reward? One of the most beautiful spots on the Mediterranean. Scenic hiking at its best!

Drive the Route des Crêtes and stop at Cap Canaille

This cliffside road between Cassis and La Ciotat is one of the most scenic drives in all of France, with stunningly jaw-dropping views of the Mediterranean. Cap Canaille, Europe’s highest sea cliff, is the star stop along the route, and there are several marked viewpoints (belvédères) where you can pull over for photos or just take it all in. 

I love a good viewpoint, and this one definitely lived up to my standards.

Drive it in the late afternoon for golden light, and aim to be at Cap Canaille for sunset – it’s unforgettable! Just be cautious: the road is narrow and winding, with no lights, so avoid driving it after dark.

Wine Tasting

If you have extra time (and didn’t drink enough wine earlier on your Provence road trip, wink wink), visit a nearby vineyard like Clos Sainte Magdeleine, located above the sea (meaning amazing views). Cassis is one of the oldest AOCs in France and is especially known for its crisp white wines. Tastings are usually by appointment, so call ahead or check online.

Where to Stay: Cassis

So there ya have it – my highly recommended one week in Provence road trip! Are you headed to France anytime soon?!



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The Perfect Guadalajara Itinerary: 4 Days in Guadalajara https://apassionandapassport.com/guadalajara-itinerary-4-days/ https://apassionandapassport.com/guadalajara-itinerary-4-days/#respond Tue, 03 Jun 2025 08:20:54 +0000 https://apassionandapassport.com/?p=32506 Headed to Mexico and planning a Guadalajara itinerary? This vibrant Mexican city is packed with culture, history, hip neighborhoods, and some of the best birria you’ll ever eat. I’m sharing my exact 4 days in Guadalajara below! ​​Often called the cultural heart of Mexico, Guadalajara is the birthplace of mariachi, tequila, and charrería (Mexican rodeo).Continue Reading

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Headed to Mexico and planning a Guadalajara itinerary? This vibrant Mexican city is packed with culture, history, hip neighborhoods, and some of the best birria you’ll ever eat. I’m sharing my exact 4 days in Guadalajara below!

​​Often called the cultural heart of Mexico, Guadalajara is the birthplace of mariachi, tequila, and charrería (Mexican rodeo). It’s deeply traditional yet buzzing with creative energy – think leafy streets, colorful murals, stylish cafés, and trendy boutiques. All right up my alley!

Honestly, Guadalajara wasn’t even on my radar or high on my bucket list. I was just browsing for quick, direct flights from San Francisco and it popped up. I kinda booked it on a whim – and I’m so glad I did. Because over my four days in Guadalajara, I basically ate my way through the city: birria, tacos, churros… at times it felt like I was on a nonstop food tour, haha. My favorite kind of trip!

In this post, I’ll help you plan the perfect Guadalajara itinerary – plus where to eat, stay, and explore. Spoiler alert: you’re gonna fall in love with this place.

Before visiting, I had no idea what to expect. Even though I’d been to coastal favorites like Puerto Vallarta and Sayulita, I’d never ventured inland to Guadalajara itself. 

But Guadalajara won me over with its leafy plazas, bustling markets, and effortlessly cool neighborhoods like Tlaquepaque and Colonia Americana (hello, cocktail bars and concept stores!). It reminded me of a smaller, more laid-back Mexico City – a city I absolutely adore and love re-visiting every few years.

As the capital of Jalisco and Mexico’s second-largest city, Guadalajara somehow manages to stay charming, artsy, and very walkable. 

So let’s get to it! Lots of birria, plazas, murals, and mariachi coming right up. Just make sure to pack your appetite – and maybe some stretchy pants – for all these amazing things to do in Guadalajara.

4 Days in Guadalajara Itinerary Logistics

Where is Guadalajara and How to Get There

Guadalajara’s in western Mexico, right in the middle of the state of Jalisco (aka the birthplace of tequila, mariachi, and so many good tacos). Sitting at around 1,700 meters (5,600 feet) above sea level, it’s up on a high plateau, which means the weather stays pretty mild and comfy year-round. No crazy heatwaves or humidity here!

It’s about 350 miles (560 kilometers) northwest of Mexico City, tucked inland on what’s called the Western Mexican Plateau. That might sound a little technical, but it basically means you’ve got mountains, valleys, and lots of gorgeous nature surrounding the city. And all that natural beauty definitely adds to the charm.

Because of where it’s located, Guadalajara makes a great base for exploring western Mexico. It’s way less touristy than the beach spots, but still full of culture, history, and amazing food. And if you do want some beach time, Puerto Vallarta and Sayulita are just a 2-3 hour drive away. So you kinda get the best of both worlds!

Flying Internationally

Thankfully, flying to Guadalajara is super straightforward. The Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla International Airport (GDL) is just about 30 – 40 minutes from the city center and has direct flights from tons of major U.S. and Canadian cities. 

I flew in from San Francisco and couldn’t believe the flight was under 4 hours. It was a really pretty flight since we flew along the coastline the entire time. You’ll also find good connections from Los Angeles, Dallas, Houston, Denver, Chicago, and Vancouver, among others. Once you land, you can grab an Uber (what I did!) or a pre-booked taxi to your hotel – easy.

Getting from Guadalajara Airport to the City Center

Using a rideshare app is by far the easiest and most cost-effective option, and how I got from the airport to my hotel in the city. Uber and Didi both operate at the airport, and rides into central Guadalajara (25-40 minutes depending on traffic) usually cost around 200-350 MXN (about $10–$20 USD). You’ll need to walk to the designated pickup zone just outside the arrivals area (past Pizza Hut), so keep an eye out for signs or ask an airport staff member.

Psst – At first I thought my initial Uber driver was trying to scam me by having me meet technically outside the airport, but once the next one told me this, I realized it was typical. Whoops!

Coming from Elsewhere in Mexico

If you’re already in Mexico (you lucky duck!), you’ll be pleased to know that Guadalajara is really well connected to other parts of the country by both bus and domestic flights. It’s just a 2-3 hour drive (or a super quick flight) from places like Puerto Vallarta or Sayulita, which makes it a popular add-on if you’re looking to mix beachy vibes with city exploring. 

Tons of travelers do a combo trip – start on the coast with tacos and surf, then head inland for tequila tastings, art galleries, and historic charm. If I had another few days I would have gladly gone to Sayulita (and San Pancho – my favorite) for a bit.

There’s also reliable long-distance buses (like Primera Plus or ETN) from other major cities like Mexico City, León, San Miguel de Allende, and Guanajuato. If you’re not in a rush and want to save money, this is a great way to go. And trust me, these buses are comfy (I’ve taken them plenty, haha).

How to Get Around Guadalajara

Getting around Guadalajara is actually super easy, even if your Spanish is a little rusty (no shame – I’m right there with you!). The city has a mix of modern transportation and walkable neighborhoods so no need to rent a car unless you really, really want to. 

Uber is your best friend here. It’s reliable, affordable, and way easier than trying to flag a taxi or figure out the bus routes. I used Uber to get just about everywhere – short rides within the city often cost less than $3 USD (!!!). You can also use DiDi, another popular rideshare app in Mexico, though I personally stuck with Uber and had zero issues.

If you’re staying in neighborhoods like Centro Histórico or Americana, you can walk to a lot of the major sights, especially if you’re a city walker like me. The tree-lined streets and colorful buildings make strolling around part of the experience.

There’s also a light rail system (SITEUR) that connects some key parts of the city and suburbs. It’s clean, efficient, and costs just a few pesos, but I honestly didn’t use it at all since Uber was so convenient (and cheap). Buses are available too, but they can be confusing and inconsistent if you’re not familiar with the routes.

If you’re planning day trips to places like Lake Chapala or Tequila, tours with transportation included are the way to go – you won’t have to deal with logistics or designated drivers (especially important if you’re sampling tequila, obviously). More on that soon!

When to Plan Your Guadalajara Itinerary 

The best time to plan your Guadalajara itinerary really depends on what kind of vibe you’re going for – but good news: Guadalajara is a year-round destination with pretty mild weather.

Winter (November to February)

This is widely regarded as the best time to visit Guadalajara, and when I visited! The weather is pleasantly warm during the day, with temperatures hovering in the low 70s to mid-80s°F (21-30°C), and cooler, crisp evenings – perfect for strolling through the historic center or dining on an outdoor terrace. Rain is minimal, and the city is lush and vibrant after the summer rains. 

For reference, I visited in mid-February, and had mostly sunny days, clear skies, and comfortable temperatures. I didn’t realize when I booked my trip that I’d be there for Guadalajara’s birthday (the city was officially founded on February 14, 1542), so got especially lucky with a bunch of fun events and lots of dancing/performances (including some epic fireworks in the town square).

Thankfully, besides the GDLuz Sound and Light Festival at night, the crowds were manageable and I never felt like I was fighting for space at popular attractions. However this is peak tourism season though so make sure to book your accommodations early.

Spring (March to May)

Spring is a wonderful time for those who enjoy a bit more warmth, as temperatures climb into the mid-80s and 90s°F (28-35°C), especially in May. The sunny days and blooming jacaranda trees (those stunning purple blooms) provide a beautiful backdrop for sightseeing. And there’s less tourists here than during fall and winter!

Summer (June to September): Rainy Season

While summer in Guadalajara brings lush greenery, it also means the rainy season is in full swing. Expect afternoon or evening showers, often heavy but short-lived (like what happened to my friends and I when we went to Mexico City in August). 

Temperatures hover between the high 80s and low 90s°F (30-34°C), with high humidity levels. It’s not unbearable, but you’ll need to pack for both rain and heat. The upside to visiting in summer is that the city is less crowded, hotel prices are lower, and everything looks wonderfully green. 

Autumn (September and October)

Autumn sees the last of the rainy season, but the rains start to taper off in September, and by October, there’s clearer skies. Temperatures cool slightly compared to summer, with days in the mid-80s°F (29°C) and nights in the low 60s°F (16-18°C). It’s still a great time to visit with fewer crowds, but always check the forecast as some years, September can still bring heavy rains.

Are 4 days in Guadalajara Enough?

I certainly think so! On a 4-day Guadalajara itinerary you can explore the historic city center, eat your weight in birria and tortas ahogadas, and wander through colorful neighborhoods like Tlaquepaque. And even have time for day trips to Tequila (a must do!), Lake Chapala, and the artisan town of Ajijic. 

I found 4 days in Guadalajara to be the perfect amount of time, and didn’t feel rushed at all. Just note if you wanna watch Lucha Libre (only on Tuesday nights) and/or catch the Jalisco horse races (races take place on Sundays), you’ll need to coordinate your itinerary to fall on those days.

Sure, you can definitely stay longer (it’s Mexico’s second largest city after all), but if I had a few more days, I’d likely go to the beach.

Health and Safety in Guadalajara

Guadalajara is generally safe for travelers, especially in popular neighborhoods like Centro Histórico, Tlaquepaque, and Chapultepec. Like any big city, though, it’s smart to stay alert – always keep an eye on your belongings, especially in crowded areas, and avoid walking alone late at night. I personally felt very comfortable here and had no issues, but I always took basic precautions (like using Uber at night and not flashing valuables).

Can You Drink the Water in Guadalajara?

Technically, tap water in Guadalajara is treated, but locals and visitors both avoid drinking it. Stick to bottled or filtered water just to be safe – most hotels, Airbnbs, and cafes offer filtered water stations. Also avoid ice from street vendors unless you’re sure it was made from purified water.

Street Food in Guadalajara

Street food is a huge part of the culture here, and honestly, skipping it would be a crime. I ate plenty of tacos, elotes, and tejuino from carts and roadside stands and had no problems. That said, go where locals go, look for vendors with a crowd (it usually means high turnover and fresher food), and trust your gut – literally. If something looks like it’s been sitting out too long in the sun, maybe skip that one.

Other Guadalajara Itinerary FAQs

Language

Spanish is the official language in Guadalajara, and while you’ll definitely find some English speakers (especially at hotels, tourist attractions, and higher-end restaurants), don’t expect fluent English everywhere. 

I was actually surprised how little English was spoken here – not like in Mexico City where you’ll hear English practically everywhere you go for the most part. Most street vendors, taxi drivers, and small shop owners speak little to no English. 

Therefore, I definitely recommend brushing up on your Spanish before going, or at least knowing a bunch of basic phrases. Google Translate is your best friend (just be sure to download the language in advance if you won’t have service every minute of your trip).

Currency

Guadalajara, like the rest of Mexico, uses the Mexican Peso (MXN). And lucky for us in the US, the conversion rate is usually quite favorable for travelers. 

Don’t expect all restaurants and shops in Guadalajara to take credit cards (although most mid-range and upscale restaurants do), so always be prepared with some cash. In addition, you’ll want some cash for tips (see below), at small handicraft shops, and road-side taco stands, as well as for any taxis you may be taking. 

I highly advise you to take out some pesos at an ATM at the airport upon landing (as you’ll get the best conversion rate using an ATM and never at a currency exchange kiosk). I recommend getting a no-fee ATM card if you don’t already have one (we’ve been using Charles Schwab for years and haven’t paid a pesky fee in forever).

At the time of writing (May 2025), the peso is equivalent to 5 cents USD (or 1 USD = ~20 Mexican pesos). I found it easy-ish to convert in my head by thinking of 100 pesos = roughly $5USD (or 200 pesos = ~$10USD). It takes a bit of practice but after a day or two you’ll be able to do the conversion super quickly in your head.

Tipping

Tipping is customary and appreciated in Guadalajara. In restaurants, 10-15% is standard if a service charge isn’t already included. For smaller services (like taxi rides, bag handling, or bathroom attendants), a few pesos or rounding up is perfectly fine. On tours, tipping your guide is a nice gesture if you enjoyed the experience.

Electrical Outlets

Mexico uses the same voltage and outlets as the U.S. (110V, type A/B plugs), so if you’re coming from the U.S. or Canada, you won’t need an adapter. 

Where to Stay in Guadalajara

Guadalajara is a sprawling city, but most travelers stick to a few key neighborhoods that are safe, centrally located, and full of charm (plus tacos, always tacos). Here’s a quick breakdown of the best areas to base yourself:

Centro Histórico (Historic Downtown)

If it’s your first time in Guadalajara and you want to be right in the heart of the action, this is the place to be. You’ll be within walking distance of iconic sites like the Guadalajara Cathedral, Teatro Degollado, and the Rotonda de los Jaliscienses Ilustres. Expect grand colonial buildings, bustling plazas, and local markets galore. Just note: it can get busy and noisy, especially on weekends. Check out Hotel TÖTEM Guadalajara (a stylish boutique hotel) and Hotel Portobelo (modern amenities and a central location)

Colonia Americana/Chapultepec area (My Favorite!)

Trendy, artsy, and effortlessly cool – this is Guadalajara’s hipster heart. Think colorful street art, tree-lined streets, third-wave coffee shops, and tons of stylish boutique stays. It felt super safe and walkable, and it’s where you’ll find some of the best nightlife and brunch spots. 

For reference, I stayed at Hotel Antre Chapultepec, and had a great stay! It’s a newer hotel in a great location, super clean, and pretty posh! And the hotel is within walking distance to oh so many restaurants, including Tomate Taqueria (where I went twice, haha), Cafe San Pedro, and Postreria GDL. Honestly, if I went back, I’d stay here again in a heartbeat. Doesn’t hurt that I got a great deal and my room cost less than $250 total for 4 nights!

Also check out Demetria Hotel (where I would have stayed if I wasn’t traveling solo) and GALA Hotel Boutique (more boutiquey with lots of personalized service).

Other Areas to Stay in

Guadalajara is way larger than most people realize, but hey, it is Mexico’s second largest city! If you’ve never been to Guadalajara I highly recommend staying in Centro Historico or Colonia Americana, but there’s other options too!

  • Tequila: Yes, that Tequila. While most people visit on a day trip, spending a night or two in this colorful Pueblo Mágico is 100% worth it – especially if you’re doing distillery tours and don’t want to rush back. The town is adorable, filled with agave fields, boutique hotels, and (unsurprisingly) more tequila than you can dream of. Check out Hotel Solar de las Ánimas, Tequilera Hacienda La Cofradía (on my bucket list for next time), and Casa Salles Hotel Boutique.
  • Tlaquepaque: A charming artisan town that feels like a mini getaway within the city. It’s a great spot for colorful colonial vibes, traditional mariachi music, and shopping for hand-painted ceramics and leather goods. Stay here if you want something different from the usual city experience. Check out Tlaquepaque Pueblito (super colorful and fun) and Aura Hotel Boutique (basic but very spacious rooms).
  • Zapopan: Technically its own city within the Guadalajara metro area and a little farther out from the main attractions – but it’s home to some of the fanciest shopping centers and the stunning Basilica of Zapopan. A good option if you want a more upscale, suburban feel. Check out avid hotels – Guadalajara Av Vallarta Pte by IHG.
  • Near the Airport: My flight home was at the ungodly hour of 7:25AM (yes, early!), so I decided it’d be best to stay the night beforehand at an airport hotel. I stayed at Hangar Select Aeropuerto Guadalajara, which was super comfy (my room was HUGE), and has a free airport shuttle – just make sure to arrange this at check-in).

What and Where to Eat in Guadalajara

The best part of Guadalajara! If you’re not sure what to do next on your Guadalajara itinerary (or you have a little extra time)… just eat. Seriously. That’s exactly what I did, haha. 

This city is bursting with flavor and EVERYTHING (and I mean EVERYTHING) was absolutely delicious. I had such a hard time deciding where (and what!) to eat because I had so much pinned on my map! 

Should I grab birria on a street corner, sip a fruity cazuela under papel picado, or splurge on a 10-course tasting menu?! All of it, por favor!

The food scene is equal parts traditional and experimental, so you can go from devouring a drenched torta ahogada at a hole-in-the-wall spot (yum) to sampling edible art at one of Latin America’s top restaurants – all in the same day. Let’s just say I ate very, very well during my 4 days in Guadalajara, haha.

Classic Local Favorites

  • Tortas Ahogadas Don José: Messy, spicy, and oh so satisfying. Tortas ahogadas are the local specialty, and this no-frills spot is beloved for a reason. Just note they will NOT give you a fork and knife (even if you ask nicely in Spanish, haha, I tried).
  • Birrieria Las 9 Esquinas: A go-to for traditional Jalisco-style birria (stewed goat or beef). There’s often live mariachi nearby, especially on weekends! I came here twice; I loved it so much.
  • La Chata: A Guadalajara institution serving homestyle Mexican comfort food – great for your first meal in the city.
  • Churros La Bombilla: Old-school churro spot with serious history. Think crispy, golden perfection dusted with cinnamon sugar. The best churros in the city and open very late!
  • Taco Fish La Paz: Best fish tacos in town. Just go. I devoured mine. (Open from 9am – 4:30pm, so plan accordingly!)

Cool, Trendy Eats

  • Piggy Back: This café is known for its chilaquiles – huge portions, bold flavors, and some of the best I had in Mexico. Plus, the whole space is oh so cute and I fell in love with their branding.
  • Tomate Taquería: Open late and a solid bet for after-hours tacos. The al pastor hits especially hard post-tequila. I came twice and loved the meat both times.
  • Karmele: A trendy, plant-forward bakery perfect for a lighter brunch or lunch option with a local twist. I stumbled upon this little cafe and LOVED their karmelito pastries. A must on your Guadalajara itinerary.
  • Postrería GDL: Where dessert gets theatrical! Expect dramatic, multi-layered creations that are as beautiful as they are delicious. They’ve even got a five-course dessert tasting menu (which I would have loved to try if I wasn’t traveling solo).
  • Loba Gastropub: Upscale pub-style dining with craft beer from Cerveza Loba, one of Guadalajara’s top microbreweries.

Elevated Dining + Drinks

  • Restaurante Alcalde: Ranked among the best restaurants in Latin America. Go for the 10-course tasting menu (around $125 USD), or sample à la carte if you’re not feeling quite that hungry.
  • Allium: A creative, locally-driven spot listed in the World’s 50 Best Discovery guide.
  • De la O Cantina: A sleek and stylish cocktail bar with an old-meets-new cantina vibe.
  • El Gallo Altanero: One of the top bars in Mexico (#48 on World’s 50 Best Bars!). Closed Monday and Tuesday, so plan ahead.

The Best 4 Day Guadalajara Itinerary

But first, a few notes about this Guadalajara itinerary:

  • This Guadalajara itinerary assumes you have a full 4 days in Guadalajara. Meaning if you arrive mid-day or late at night, you’ll want an extra day in order to see and do all the things on this itinerary.
  • BUT you can easily shorten this itinerary into 2 or 3 full days by simply removing a day trip or two. You’ll notice that 3 out of the 4 days in Guadalajara are actually mostly day trips, haha.
  • You can totally rearrange the days if you’d like. Meaning, you can easily do Day 3 on Day 1, and vice-versa.
  • This Guadalajara itinerary doesn’t include Lucha Libre (Mexican wrestling that only happens on Tuesday nights) and Charreria (Mexico’s national horse-racing sport with competitions taking place on Sunday). If you’d like to see either of these things, make sure you arrange your itinerary accordingly!

Day 1: Explore Downtown Guadalajara (Centro Histórico)

Morning and Early Afternoon: Centro Historico

I started my Guadalajara itinerary with a walking tour – something I always recommend doing on Day 1 in a new destination! It was a deep dive into the city’s historic heart, and honestly, the perfect intro to the culture, history, and energy of Jalisco’s capital. I didn’t realize how much there is to see in Centro Histórico, from towering cathedrals to leafy plazas and grand government buildings covered in bold murals. 

You can certainly explore it all on your own (nothing’s terribly far), but I highly recommend joining a walking tour like I did. My guide gave tons of helpful context and historical background I would’ve totally missed on my own, plus I felt very safe wandering with a small group. And I didn’t have to navigate at all, which is always appreciated when I travel solo!

We started at the iconic Guadalajara Cathedral, one of the city’s most recognizable landmarks with its signature yellow spires and blend of architectural styles. From there, we strolled through Plaza de Armas, passed the Rotonda de los Jaliscienses Ilustres, and admired the fountains and statues in Plaza de la Liberación.

One of my favorite stops was Palacio Municipal de Guadalajara, which I hadn’t even heard of before the tour. Inside, we found a jaw-dropping mural by José Clemente Orozco that spans the grand staircase – bold, expressive, and so powerful in person. 

We also popped into the Teatro Degollado, a 19th-century neoclassical theater known for its opulent red velvet interiors and perfectly preserved architecture. Even if you don’t catch a performance, it’s worth visiting just to step inside and take it all in.

Next it was market time! Because no visit to Guadalajara is complete without a market or two, and we covered both ends of the spectrum. 

First was Mercado San Juan de Dios, the largest indoor market in Latin America – a total sensory overload in the best way. We wandered through its maze of stalls, sampling local fruits (some I’d never even seen before!), and eyeing all kinds of snacks, souvenirs, leather goods, and more. FYI – you’ll want cash for the market. I even got to try chapulines (fried grasshoppers) and they were better than I’d imagined (kinda tasted like powdery lime crackers to me).  Although I’m not so sure I’d choose to willingly snack on them, haha.

Don’t miss some jericalla flan, a Jalisco speciality that’s basically a cross between flan and creme brulee. And it’s absolutely delicious. You’ll find lots at the market (but always make sure it’s covered for sanitary reasons).

Later on, we swung by Mercado Corona, a smaller, more traditional covered market. It felt more local and relaxed, with everything from fresh plants and handmade cigars to quirky knick-knacks and religious figurines. It’s the kind of place you could poke around for hours and still stumble on something new.

By the end of the tour, I felt like I’d seen so many layers of the city – from its historic core and artistic heart to its everyday hustle. It was a full but satisfying morning/early afternoon, and the perfect way to kick off my time in Guadalajara!

Evening: Wandering Chapultepec & Colonia Americana

After a full day exploring downtown, I headed to the Chapultepec area in Colonia Americana – easily one of the coolest neighborhoods in Guadalajara. The wide, tree-lined boulevard is buzzing with energy, especially in the evening when locals gather at cafés, bars, and taco joints. Plus, I was staying nearby so I definitely wanted to explore my neighborhood.

It reminded me a bit of La Condesa in Mexico City, with its leafy streets, trendy spots on every corner, and that perfect mix of laid-back and lively energy.

One of the first things I stumbled upon was the massive Frida Kahlo mural, known as Magdalena. Painted by Irish artist Fin DAC, this 150-foot-tall piece is an absolute showstopper and a powerful tribute to Frida’s spirit and style. You really can’t miss it – literally and figuratively (it’s HUGE).

Dessert: Okay, confession: I had dessert before dinner – no regrets there. One of the best parts about solo travel is that I get to make all the rules, wink wink.

I popped into Postrería GDL, which is known for its wildly inventive and artful desserts. The menu changes seasonally, so if you’ve seen something online or on Instagram, there’s no guarantee it’ll still be available. Luckily, the waiter walked me through each dessert in detail so I could make an informed (and delicious) decision. 

I ended up going with a super creative citrus-forward dish inspired by the ocean, with bright flavors like yuzu and other tropical notes. It looked like a work of art and tasted just as good. Honestly, I wanted to try everything on the menu – it was that hard to choose.

Al Pastor Dinner: For dinner, I made my way to Tomate Taquería, a beloved local spot serving over-the-top tacos. Just a heads-up: there was a huge line out front when I arrived, so definitely don’t come starving. But the wait was worth every second. 

I ordered both the tacos al pastor and an al pastor volcano (covered in cheese) – and quickly realized it was way too much food so saved the volcano for breakfast the next morning, haha. Plus, my limonada con frutos rojos drink was HUGE!

If you’re looking for a nightcap, here’s a few suggestions in the Chapultepec/Americana area (although I called it a night after my very long day). 

  1. De La O Cantina: Stylish and low-key with craft cocktails focused on Mexican spirits and ingredients. Cozy, creative, and consistently great.
  2. El Gallo Altanero: Ranked on the World’s 50 Best Bars list (#48)! Trendy spot known for its expertly crafted cocktails and rooftop vibes. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays.
  3. Cantina La Occidental: A classic Guadalajara cantina with a lively atmosphere, cheap drinks, and a great place to soak up local flavor (both cultural and alcoholic).
  4. Gallo Altanero Patio: Same folks as El Gallo Altanero, but this one’s more casual and open-air, perfect for a chill drink under the stars.

Day 2: A Boozy Day Trip to Tequila

No Guadalajara itinerary is complete without a day trip to the colorful, agave-scented town of Tequila. It’s only about an hour away from the city, and whether you’re a diehard tequila fan or more of a curious sipper (hi!), this UNESCO-listed pueblo is packed with flavor, charm, and culture.

I joined a guided group tour (there’s a ton of options so shop around!), and I’m so glad I did. Everything was handled for me – transportation, stops, and of course, lots of tequila tastings. If you’re not planning to spend the night in Tequila or figure out logistics yourself, a tour is by far the easiest (and most fun) way to go. Especially if you’re planning to end the day at Cantaritos El Güero (more on that later).

A few other tours to check out: the premium tequila tour and the classic tequila route!

Stop #1: Agave Fields

Our first stop of the day? The iconic blue agave fields, stretching out toward the hills in every direction. We stopped at a local tequila farm, where I got to wander through the spiky rows and take a few (ok, a ton) of fun pics. 

The scenery was unreal – bright green agave set against a deep blue sky, with mountains in the distance. Truly one of those “wow, I’m really here” kind of travel moments. I loved the little farm we stopped at; the entire setup was so charming and photogenic and the swing overlooking the agave fields was so fun! 

Plus, some people hopped on a horse for even more photos, but I decided to skip out since I was wearing a short dress, haha.

Stop #2: Tequila Tour and Tastings

From there, we headed over to Hacienda Casa González for a tequila production tour and demonstration. The space was absolutely stunning – old-school hacienda vibes with traditional equipment, rustic barrels, and agave hearts waiting to be cooked. 

We learned all about the tequila-making process, from roasting the piñas to fermentation and distillation. The guides were super engaging and passionate about their craft, and I walked away with a whole new appreciation for what goes into a single bottle of tequila.

Then came the tastings… and wow, did they go all out. There were soooo many tequila samples and shots being passed around, I didn’t even try to keep up. 

People were getting tipsy fast – some even drunk before noon. I kept it chill (I’m honestly not a big drinker and can’t handle my liquor anymore), so I just tasted a few of the more unique varieties. My favorites? The coffee-infused tequila and some of the fruit-flavored ones – sweet, smooth, and dangerously sippable.

Stop #3: Tequila Town and Market Lunch

After all that, we finally made our way into the town of Tequila itself. We had free time to stroll around the main square, shop for souvenirs, and snap a few pics with the oversized colorful “TEQUILA” letters. The vibe was festive and lively – mariachi music drifting through the air, colorful flags overhead, and plenty of street vendors and tequila bars if you wanted to keep the party going.

Instead of a sit-down meal, I opted to eat at the local market in Tequila, which was absolutely buzzing with energy. I grabbed a plate of juicy birria tacos (so good!) and some fresh tortillas while listening to a live mariachi band perform right there in the food hall. 

Just know that mariachi isn’t free – if you linger, record a video, or they stop by your table, it’s expected that you’ll leave a small tip. Totally worth it for the ambiance. 

Stop #4: Cantaritos El Güero

To wrap up the day, we made one final stop: Cantaritos El Güero, a roadside bar that was way more of a full-on experience than I expected. Think music blasting (and tons of dancing), bartenders pouring tequila from two feet above your cup, and a party atmosphere like no other. Overwhelming to say the least, especially if you don’t know what to expect.

Everyone comes for the signature drink – the cantarito – a citrusy tequila cocktail made with grapefruit soda, lime, orange, and salt, all served in a massive clay mug. You can choose your cup size (they get beyond huge and wildly expensive), and it’s the kind of drink that feels celebratory from the very first sip. Such a fun and hilarious way to cap off the day.

Thankfully I made friends with everyone on my tour; I don’t think it’s the kind of place you enjoy solo, haha.

Psst — Cantaritos El Güero is between Tequila Town and Guadalajara, so make sure you have a ride back if you’re not going on a tour.

What to Know Before You Go:

  • If you want to ride the Jose Cuervo Express tequila train, it’s a super scenic option, but it only runs on Saturdays – and tickets go fast (and they’re expensive).
  • Other great distilleries to check out if you go on your own: La Rojeña (Jose Cuervo), Casa Herradura, Cava de Oro, and La Cofradía.
  • Bring cash for the market, tips for mariachi, and water – you’ll need it after all that tequila.
  • Don’t forget sunscreen and a hat if you plan to wander the fields or town for long.

By the time we rolled back into Guadalajara, I was overly exhausted. If you’re planning to drink a lot, I definitely wouldn’t make any plans for tonight, haha. 

Day 3: Day Trip to Tlaquepaque

Up next on this Guadalajara itinerary – Tlaquepaque (pronounced tlah-keh-PAH-keh, you’re welcome, lol)! 

And it couldn’t be easier to get to, as it’s just 15 minutes from central Guadalajara (via Uber for about 150 MXN / ~$7 USD). While many think it’s simply a neighborhood of Guadalajara, Tlaquepaque is actually its own municipality – and one brimming with artistic flair, colonial charm, and mariachi magic.

Expect pedestrian-friendly cobblestone streets, shady plazas, beautifully preserved buildings, and loads of local art. It’s considered the creative and cultural capital of the Guadalajara area for good reason. And it reminded me so much of other small Mexican towns I love, namely Todos Santos, San Miguel de Allende, and even Oaxaca (which I’m dying to get back to sooner than later)!

While you can easily spend all day exploring Tlaquepaque, I found just a few hours was plenty – which gives you time to check out other spots in Guadalajara earlier in the day, which is what I did.

Morning Stop: Casa ITESO Clavigero (in Guadalajara)

Before heading to Tlaquepaque, I made a quick cultural pit stop at Casa ITESO Clavigero, located in the quiet Colonia Americana neighborhood. Before visiting Guadalajara, I didn’t realize that Luis Barragán (a famous architect in Mexico) designed any buildings here. 

I had seen his way-more-popular houses (including Casa Gilardi and Casa Estudio Luis Barragán, both in Mexico City), so was thrilled to learn that one of his early works is tucked away right here in Guadalajara.

Built in the late 1920s, the house is a stunning example of regional Tapatío architecture – full of clean lines, natural light, and minimalist elegance. I will say it didn’t wow me as much as the others in CDMX did, but I was still happy to see it.

Casa ITESO Clavigero was originally the private home of Mexican philosopher and politician Efraín González Luna, and it now serves as a cultural center owned by the Jesuit university ITESO. It’s free to enter and usually hosts rotating art and architecture exhibits, as well as gardens you can stroll through. 

Architecture lovers, don’t skip this – it’s considered a National Artistic Monument. There’s even a cafe inside if you need an early morning coffee.

Late Morning & Afternoon in Tlaquepaque

Hop in an Uber and head straight to the heart of Tlaquepaque. It’s compact and very walkable, so you won’t need to plan much – just wander and enjoy without a real plan. I promise you’ll eventually run into everything, haha. But here’s a few things not to miss!

  • Walk Calle Independencia: This is the town’s charming main street (pedestrian-only!), and full of artisan shops, colorful galleries, and whimsical sculptures. Expect handmade ceramics, blown glass, leather goods, and a lot of local color – literally. I loved getting a mango ice cream (mmm my favorite!) and wandering around.
  • Try a Tuba: Nope, not the instrument! Tuba is a unique regional drink made from fermented coconut sap, and it’s typically topped with chopped peanuts and fruit candies. It’s sweet, refreshing, and something you won’t find just anywhere. You’ll see locals selling these right on the street!
  • Go shopping at Plaza de Artesanías: A small square with a handful of shops to buy local Mexican crafts. I found some super cute keychains here, and loved taking photos of the popular umbrellas hanging overhead.
  • Pop into Sergio Bustamante’s Gallery: This surrealist sculptor is famous for his oddball creations, and his flagship gallery here is as whimsical as it is thought-provoking. From wide-eyed papier-mâché children to fantastical creatures, it’s one of the coolest spots in town.
  • El Refugio of Tlaquepaque: On normal days, you can tour and photograph the photogenic rooftop of El Refugio of Tlaquepaque. But it just so happened that a special marketplace was happening the day I was there so the rooftop was unfortunately closed.
  • Lunch at Restaurante Casa Luna: Come for the food, stay for the setting. The space is a stunner, filled with mosaic tilework, plants, ceiling mobiles, and twinkling lights. There’s often live music, and the menu features upscale takes on traditional Mexican cuisine.
  • Visit the Ceramic Markets: Tlaquepaque is a ceramics hub, and even if you don’t plan on buying anything, the markets are worth a browse. You’ll find both contemporary and traditional styles — perfect for a little window shopping or unique souvenirs.
  • Wrap up at El Parián: This massive open-air cantina is said to be the biggest bar in Mexico, and it’s more of an experience than a single venue. Dozens of small bars and restaurants circle a central gazebo where live mariachi bands play throughout the day. Don’t leave without trying a cazuela – a giant tequila-based citrus cocktail served in a clay bowl with fruit slices. It’s the town’s signature drink and super refreshing. I have to admit this spot is crazy touristy and it was kinda dead when I visited, so I opted to skip it and just took a quick glance. Although I do think it’d be more fun with friends later on in the day.

Day 4: Day Trip to Lake Chapala and Ajijic

On your last day of your Guadalajara itinerary, it’s time to once again, get outta the city, this time for some lakeside charm! No shortage of day trips here, haha. Psst: if you can, I’d recommend visiting on a weekday, as it gets very busy on weekends and understandably so.

Just an hour outside of Guadalajara, this scenic region feels like a totally different world – think colorful colonial towns, peaceful water views, and a pace of life that’s way slower than the city.

This day trip includes a little bit of everything: tequila tastings, boat rides, artisan shopping, and sunset strolls. You’ll get to explore Ajijic, a quirky artist enclave with serious Pueblo Mágico energy, and Chapala, a traditional lakeside town with a great malecón for people-watching and photo ops. It’s one of the most popular and well-rounded excursions from Guadalajara – and after spending a full day exploring the area, I totally get why.

I really recommend taking a guided day tour to this area; having a guide made the whole experience super smooth and stress-free, especially since the towns are spread out and not super easy to navigate on your own without a car.

This is the exact day trip tour to Lake Chapala and Ajijic that I took, and thought it was great value for money! The tour first took us to a tequila factory, had lunch overlooking the lake, then took a boat ride on Lake Chapala, visited the magical town of Ajijic, and finally ended with sunset in Chapala town. A fantastic and very full day!

Stop #1: Tequila Factory Visit

Yes, more tequila! It’s hard to get away from it around here, haha! This one wasn’t quite as flashy as the big-name spots near Tequila, but way more intimate. I loved getting a behind-the-scenes look at the process and chatting with the staff, who clearly knew their stuff (and were very generous with the samples). Definitely a great little bonus before the main events of the day.

Stop #2: Seafood Lunch Overlooking the Lake

The tour took us to a restaurant right on the lake, called Mariscos El Carnal. I typically scoff at restaurants on tours, but this was actually pretty decent! 

We sat upstairs with a lovely view of Chapala Lake, and loved the light breeze. The menu had so much to choose from (it was actually a bit overwhelming), with a big emphasis on seafood (which makes sense considering it’s a seafood restaurant, haha). Lots of shrimp, ceviches, octopus (my favorite!), and shellfish platters.

I wouldn’t necessarily choose to eat there if I wasn’t on a tour, but it was good enough, haha. And the views couldn’t have been better.

Stop #3: Boat Ride on Lake Chapala

Next up was a breezy boat ride on Lake Chapala, Mexico’s largest freshwater lake. With the Sierra Madre mountains in the background and pelicans flying overhead, it was a peaceful way to take in the views and learn a bit about the local ecosystem. 

Our guide pointed out a few small islands and shared stories about the region’s history – super interesting and not something I would’ve learned on my own. The boat ride was short but felt like it was long enough.

Stop #4: Stroll Through Ajijic, The Artsy Pueblo Mágico by the Lake

From there, we made our way to Ajijic (pronounced ah-hee-HEEK), one of Jalisco’s designated Pueblos Mágicos. This is a title given to towns with special cultural, historical, or natural significance – and it definitely earns its name. 

This lakeside village has become a bit of a haven for artists, creatives, and expats (especially from the U.S. and Canada), but still retains its authentic small-town Mexican charm.

What makes Ajijic stand out is its colorful, creative energy. The streets are covered in murals – seriously, nearly every wall bursts with color and character. The town has a strong art scene, with plenty of little galleries and studios to duck into, as well as artisan markets where you can find everything from handmade textiles to quirky sculptures.

It’s also just incredibly walkable. You can stroll the cobblestone streets at your own pace, pop into cute cafés, and admire the colonial architecture framed by jacaranda trees (especially beautiful in spring when they bloom purple!). The main plaza is often buzzing with live music or small events, and there’s always a relaxed, easygoing vibe.

I can totally see why so many expats live here – there’s year-round spring-like weather and oh so gorgeous setting right on the shores of Lake Chapala, backed by the Sierra del Tigre mountains. Unfortunately this makes the town exceptionally pricey, so don’t plan on buying any souvenirs here as everything is at least triple the price.

Stop #5: Sunset in Chapala Town

Chapala town is the perfect place to end a day trip from Guadalajara – laid-back, scenic, and full of local charm. It’s the largest town on the shores of Lake Chapala (Mexico’s biggest freshwater lake), and it feels way more traditional than Ajijic, with less of the expat/artsy vibe and more of that authentic, everyday Mexico energy.

We got here just in time for sunset along the malecón (lakefront promenade). There were snack stands (don’t miss a refreshing raspados – shaved ice), local families out for a walk, and a golden glow over the water that made for a perfect photo op. It was the kind of spot where you could just sit, sip a cold drink, and soak it all in. And that we did!

Chapala also has a cute main plaza and a handful of shops selling local handicrafts. I also noticed some cool murals scattered around the town. Overall, it’s super walkable and makes for a relaxing, photogenic final stop before heading back to Guadalajara.

All in all, this day trip was super well-paced and a great way to experience another side of Jalisco. If you’ve got the time, I’d definitely recommend adding it to your Guadalajara itinerary!

Hope this helps you plan the perfect Guadalajara itinerary! Are you headed to Mexico anytime soon?!



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An Epic El Salvador Itinerary: Volcano Hikes, Pupusas, and Pacific Sunsets https://apassionandapassport.com/el-salvador-itinerary/ https://apassionandapassport.com/el-salvador-itinerary/#respond Thu, 15 May 2025 05:01:44 +0000 https://apassionandapassport.com/?p=32311 Hoping to plan the perfect El Salvador itinerary?! You’re in the right place. This small but mighty Central American country totally blew me away – in all the best ways possible! I promise you, from surf towns and steamy volcanoes to cheesy pupusas and colonial charm, there’s a lot to love here.  In this post,Continue Reading

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Hoping to plan the perfect El Salvador itinerary?! You’re in the right place. This small but mighty Central American country totally blew me away – in all the best ways possible! I promise you, from surf towns and steamy volcanoes to cheesy pupusas and colonial charm, there’s a lot to love here. 

In this post, I’ll help you map out an epic El Salvador itinerary, plus where to stay, what to eat, and everything in between. Let’s dive in!

Imagine volcanic peaks rising behind lush jungles. Black sand beaches dotted with surfers and coconuts. Colorful pueblos with cobblestone streets and murals splashed across adobe walls. And you can’t forget about the pupusas, fresh fruits, and ice-cold coconut water, of course! El Salvador may be tiny, but it’s bursting with dramatic landscapes and vibrant culture. And I loved every second of it (including the sizzling tropical heat).

To be honest, El Salvador hadn’t been on my radar for very long. I always assumed it was way too risky to visit, so didn’t even entertain the idea of going. But when things started taking a massive turn, I instantly put it on my bucket list. 

I’d been to other countries in Central America (Guatemala, Belize, and Panama thus far) and LOVED them, so knew I needed to check out El Salvador eventually. So when I saw nonstop flights to San Salvador from SFO (my home airport), I bought those tickets right up and started planning my El Salvador itinerary!

I spent just over a week in El Salvador and honestly, I was surprised by how much I loved it. The landscapes are insanely diverse for such a small country – one day I was hiking a volcano, the next I was lounging on the black sand beaches of El Tunco with a fresh watermelon juice in hand. It’s affordable, packed with adventure, and still flying under the radar for most travelers, which means fewer crowds and a more authentic vibe all around. A perfect combination in my book!

So let’s get to it – the most perfect El Salvador itinerary coming right up! But first, some important logistics.

Week in El Salvador Itinerary Logistics

This El Salvador itinerary starts in the capital city of San Salvador, makes a few day trips (including a spectacular volcano hike), and ends by the beach in El Tunco. It’s a wildly varied itinerary, offering a little bit of everything – from cultural exploration to natural wonders (my fave!) and beachside relaxation.

Where is El Salvador and How To Get There

El Salvador is a compact but diverse country in Central America, bordered by Guatemala to the west, Honduras to the north and east, and the Pacific Ocean to the south. It’s the only Central American country without a Caribbean coastline, but what it lacks there, it makes up for with nearly 200 miles of Pacific shoreline, perfect for surfing and beach-hopping. The country is roughly the size of Massachusetts, which means you can go from misty mountain towns to black-sand beaches in just a couple of hours.

How to Get to El Salvador

Flying Internationally 

Of course you’ve gotta get yourself there! 

You’ll be flying into San Óscar Arnulfo Romero International Airport (SAL), the only international airport in the country. And since El Salvador is so tiny, it’s sandwiched about 45 minutes from both the capital and the coast!

The airport is well-connected to major cities in North and South America, as well as some destinations in Europe. If you’re flying from the US, you’ll find direct flights from cities like Miami, Los Angeles, and Houston, with flight times ranging from 3 to 6 hours depending on where you’re flying from. 

Coming from San Francisco, I was able to take a nonstop flight directly from San Salvador on Avianca. I thought flights were a decent price (I paid around $500 roundtrip with a checked bag). 

Note that Avianca is technically a budget airline so expect to pay for literally everything like bags and even drinks (water/soda) on the plane. Yup, they don’t even hand out water… (although you can always ask for a courtesy water which I think they have to give you).

Coming from Elsewhere in Central America 

Already in Central America?! Getting to El Salvador is super easy (so yup, it’s a great addition if you’re planning a longer Latin American trip). If you’re coming from neighboring Guatemala or Honduras, buses are a popular option, though the ride can take anywhere from 3 to 6 hours, depending on where you’re traveling from of course. Including San José (Costa Rica), Managua (Nicaragua), and Antigua (Guatemala). 

There’s also daily flights from nearby countries (such as Costa Rica, Guatemala, and Nicaragua), available to the San Salvador International Airport.

Visas in El Salvador

Most visitors to El Salvador can skip the visa process and just grab a Tourist Card when they land or cross a border. It’s a quick $12 fee, and it gives you 90 days to explore the country (although I got lucky and was granted 180 days!). 

You can get the card at airports, border crossings, or seaports – super easy. Just remember, your passport needs to be valid for at least six months beyond your trip. Some countries are exempt from this fee or may need to get a visa ahead of time, so double-check before you go!

How to Get Around El Salvador

Uber: I used Uber as my main mode of transport, and honestly, it was great. I felt prices were super fair – like, a 45-minute ride cost me about $10. The priciest Uber I took was from San Salvador to El Tunco, which was about ~$40 or so. 

I always prefer Uber so I know exactly what I’m paying upfront and there’s no communication barriers (since my Spanish is still kinda subpar, although I’m definitely getting better). Uber is thankfully available in the major tourist areas of El Salvador, and I found it way more convenient than dealing with taxis or trying to figure out chicken buses/public transit.

Shuttle Buses: When I first arrived in San Salvador, I used a private shuttle transfer to get to my hotel. It was late at night and I didn’t wanna chance an Uber costing more than it should be. Plus, whenever I travel solo, I like that security knowing I have a trusted company picking me up.

Taxis: Traditional taxis are easy to find, especially in urban areas. They’re also a safe and reliable way to get around, but be sure to negotiate the fare or insist that they use the meter, as taxi prices can vary. Always try to grab a taxi from a reputable spot, like a hotel or a taxi stand. 

To be honest, if you don’t speak Spanish, I’d stick with Ubers so there’s less of a chance you end up in the wrong place, haha. 

Renting a Car: Renting a car is a great choice if you plan to explore more remote parts of El Salvador. Most roads are paved and in decent condition, but be prepared for plenty of speed bumps (or “topes”), especially in towns and on quieter roads. Some are clearly marked, but others might sneak up on you, so stay alert! 

Keep in mind that El Salvador now has a zero-tolerance alcohol policy – meaning no driving if you’ve had even one drink. I personally LOVE this and think more countries should adopt this policy. 

As for getting around San Salvador, expect heavy traffic, especially during rush hours. Always give yourself more time than you think you’ll need to get in and out of the city! If I wasn’t traveling solo I think I’d consider renting a car, but it wasn’t something I was interested in doing myself.

Public Buses: El Salvador’s public buses are an experience in and of themselves. You’ll mostly be hopping on the famous “chicken buses” – old American school buses decked out in bright colors (which you’ll also see all over Guatemala as well). 

They’re cheap and take you just about anywhere, but they’re not the most comfortable or reliable option if you’re in a hurry. They’re definitely a fun way to dive into the local culture though – just don’t expect luxury!

Day trip tours: I took a few day trips that included transportation and they were amazing! It’s a great way to see more of the country without worrying about logistics or renting a car. 

Many tours offer hotel pickup and drop-off, so it’s super convenient – especially if you’re not keen on navigating the roads yourself. Plus, I learned so much from my local guides, and they gave me some of the best food recommendations of the whole trip!

When to Plan Your El Salvador Itinerary

El Salvador has a tropical climate, so expect heat and humidity, especially in the lowlands. Like other tropical warm weather destinations, El Salvador kinda has two main seasons – dry season and wet season. (Psst – you’ll most likely wanna go during dry season, wink wink).

When planning your El Salvador itinerary, the best time to visit is from November through February. This period falls within the dry season, where you can expect sunny days, clear skies, and comfortable temperatures, perfect for exploring the country’s beaches, volcanoes, and cultural sites. The weather is warm but not too hot, making it ideal for outdoor adventures, from surfing to hiking.

March and April can be pretty hot, especially along the coast, which I found surprising since inland areas are usually the hottest during my other travels. The coastal heat is more intense, and the humidity can be pretty unbearable at times, making it a bit uncomfortable for extended outdoor activities. 

That said, prices tend to be a bit lower compared to the peak dry season, so if you can handle the heat and humidity, you might score some deals while avoiding large crowds.

For reference, I visited the end of March to early April, and had mostly perfect weather. Yes, it was hot and steamy along the coast (I almost melted), and I experienced one massive rainstorm, but all in all no major complaints.

The rainy season in El Salvador runs from May to October. While the rain usually comes in short afternoon showers, it can still put a damper on beach days or hiking. However, the rain brings lush greenery and fewer tourists, so if you prefer a quieter, more budget-friendly experience, this time of year can work – just be prepared for a more unpredictable climate.

Coastal areas can be particularly damp during this time, so if you’re planning to explore the beaches, consider a light jacket and quick-dry gear. But the rain isn’t all bad – it cools things off a bit and brings out the vibrant green of El Salvador’s forests and farmlands, so the scenery is lush and beautiful, even if the rain occasionally puts a halt to outdoor plans.

Is a Week in El Salvador Enough?

I think so – but only if you plan it right! This little Central American country is packed with adventure, and while it’s smaller than most US states, there’s honestly tons to do. 

With just a week in El Salvador, you can surf world-class waves in El Tunco, hike up an active volcano (hey, Santa Ana), explore colorful colonial towns like Suchitoto, swim in crater lakes, and maybe even squeeze in a pupusa-making class. It’s fast-paced, sure, but totally doable. 

Just don’t expect to cover every corner of the country – this El Salvador itinerary hits the highlights without making you feel rushed. If you’ve got more time, even better – but for a one-week trip? You’re golden.

For reference, I spent exactly a week in El Salvador, and felt it was the perfect amount of time. Sure, I would’ve been fine with an extra few days, but I really feel like I saw 90% of what I wanted in that short time frame (I decided to skip Suchitoto because I didn’t feel like dealing with a long-ish bus ride).

Health and Safety in El Salvador

Ahhh – the million dollar question. Is El Salvador even safe to visit? 10 years ago when I first visited nearby Guatemala I had a layover in San Salvador (El Salvador’s capital city) and was low-key freaking out. IN THE AIRPORT. But now it’s completely different.

It’s true; the country has a more-than horrible reputation. I mean, it used to be known as the Murder Capital of the World (yup…). Friends and family were questioning why I even considered visiting El Salvador for a vacation

I get it, BUT the recent reality is WAY different and a lot more nuanced than the outdated reputation suggests.

In recent years, El Salvador has undergone a massive shift when it comes to safety. Thanks to major reforms and a crackdown on gang activity, crime rates – especially violent crime – have dropped significantly. 

While the country used to be considered one of the most dangerous in the world, that narrative is quickly changing, and fast. Tourism is on the rise, and travelers (myself included!) are starting to see the country in a totally different light.

Safety in El Salvador has improved dramatically in recent years, and it’s all thanks to the country’s current president, Nayib Bukele. Since taking office in 2019, he’s launched an aggressive crackdown on gang violence – most notably through his controversial “state of emergency” in 2022. That allowed mass arrests (we’re talking over 70,000 alleged gang members) and the creation of a massive mega-prison to hold them. 

The result? Homicide rates are now at historic lows, and in 2025, the U.S. even updated El Salvador’s travel advisory to a Level 1 (the safest rating). To put things in perspective, at the time of writing, France and Turks & Caicos are at Level 2… 

Of course, it’s not without criticism – some human rights groups have raised concerns about civil liberties and due process. But from a traveler’s point of view? El Salvador feels safer than it has in decades. To be honest, I felt totally safe traveling throughout El Salvador, and even safer than I do at home walking the streets of San Francisco (or any other large city in the USA). And this includes everywhere I went, even at night walking around Zona Rosa as a solo female traveler. 

The locals were warm, welcoming, and genuinely excited to see travelers discovering their country. Like anywhere, stay aware of your surroundings and keep your valuables secure – but overall, you’ll likely be pleasantly surprised by just how chill it feels.

That said, common sense goes a long way here. Petty theft can still happen (like anywhere), so don’t flash valuables, keep your belongings secure, and stay aware of your surroundings – especially in crowded areas or public transport. Stick to well-reviewed accommodations and use registered taxis or rideshare apps instead of random cabs. And if you’re heading into more remote areas or volcano hikes, always go with a guide.

As with any destination, be smart, stay alert, and do your research – but don’t let fear stop you from experiencing this beautiful (and wildly underrated) country.

Is El Salvador safe for a solo female traveler?

I’d say, yes, it’s safe. I traveled throughout El Salvador as a 30-something solo female and would have no hesitations going again. 

However, I’d recommend this destination for experienced solo travelers only. Meaning, I wouldn’t make El Salvador the first place you ever travel solo. 

Not necessarily because of safety, but because of other inconveniences and challenges – namely unpredictable public transportation, limited access to reliable Wi-Fi, a lack of widespread English speakers (possibly causing language barriers), and a lack of consistent infrastructure in more remote areas.

Health in El Salvador

Health-wise, El Salvador’s pretty straightforward for most travelers, but there’s a few things to keep in mind of course.

Vaccinations: You don’t need any special vaccines to enter El Salvador, but the CDC recommends being up to date on your routine shots – think Hepatitis A and B, typhoid (especially if you’re adventurous with food), and tetanus. 

Malaria isn’t a big concern in most tourist areas, but dengue fever is present, so bring insect repellent (with DEET or picaridin) and wear long sleeves and pants when you can – especially if you’re spending time in more rural or coastal areas.

Water: The tap water here generally isn’t safe to drink. Most locals don’t even drink it. Stick to bottled or filtered water for drinking and brushing your teeth (although I used tap for the latter and was completely fine). 

Many hotels and Airbnbs provide purified water – some even have water coolers or large jugs you can refill from. It’s smart to travel with a reusable water bottle that has a built-in filter (like a Grayl or Lifestraw) for peace of mind.

Street food: El Salvador is a pupusa paradise, and street food is often totally fine to eat – but trust your gut (pun intended). Stick to vendors with high turnover, eat food that’s cooked fresh and served hot, and skip raw stuff if you’re not sure about the cleanliness.

A small travel medicine kit with anti-diarrheal meds, electrolytes, and a probiotic can go a long way, especially if you have a sensitive stomach. I ate street food in both El Tunco and San Salvador and had zero stomach issues thankfully. 

Healthcare access: In El Salvador, clinics and antibiotics are free for citizens and even tourists (a welcome surprise!). Still, make sure you’ve got travel insurance that covers medical emergencies just in case. Better be safe than sorry of course!

Other El Salvador Itinerary FAQs

Currency in El Salvador

El Salvador uses two official currencies: the U.S. dollar (including $1 coins) and the Bitcoin (yes, crypto!). While the U.S. dollar has been the main currency since 2001 (previously the colon), the country made headlines in 2021 by adopting Bitcoin as legal tender, becoming the first country in the world to do so (!!!). Kinda wild!

While Bitcoin is gaining ground, especially in El Zonte, aptly named “Bitcoin Beach”, the U.S. dollar remains the dominant currency for most transactions. If you’re visiting, you’ll find that cash is king, but don’t be surprised if some places start offering Bitcoin payment options.

Cash vs. Card: While credit and debit cards are widely accepted in major cities and tourist areas, it’s always a good idea to carry cash when venturing out to smaller towns or more remote areas. You’ll definitely want some small bills and $1 coins (yes, they’re used here!) for market purchases and street vendors. 

ATMs are easy to find in cities, but just be sure to withdraw enough cash for your day trips, as some rural spots may not have reliable ATM access.

Tipping in El Salvador: Tipping in El Salvador is appreciated but not mandatory. The standard tipping rate is around 10% of your bill in restaurants and cafes, which I gladly gave. If the service is exceptional, feel free to tip more! 

Language in El Salvador

Spanish is the official language of El Salvador, and you’ll hear it everywhere – from the streets to the markets to the restaurants. So, if you know some basic Spanish, you’ll have no trouble getting around! 

That said, there are a few indigenous Mayan languages like Nahuatl still spoken in rural areas, though you’re not likely to hear them much unless you’re deep in the countryside. 

My Spanish is pretty basic – I can get by with simple conversations and can understand a bit more – but I quickly realized that many locals speak little to no English. Even hotel staff and restaurant employees often knew just a few words or none at all. I noticed that English wasn’t as commonly spoken here compared to other parts of Latin America. 

So, if you’re planning a trip, definitely brush up on a few basic Spanish phrases to make life easier! A few helpful phrases to start you off:

  • Hola = Hello
  • Adios = Goodbye
  • Buenos dias = Good morning
  • Buenas tardes = Good afternoon 
  • Buenas noches = Good night
  • Cuanto cuesta? = How much does it cost?
  • Cómo te llamas? = What is your name?
  • Me llamo… = My name is…
  • Soy de… = I am from…
  • Cerveza = Beer
  • La cuenta, por favor? = The check, please?
  • Muchas gracias = Thank you so much
  • Para llevar = take away

Where to Stay in El Salvador

If you’re planning to explore a few different regions of El Salvador (and you should!), I highly recommend splitting your stay between the beach and the city. I based myself in El Tunco and San Salvador, and that combo worked out perfectly. 

Here’s a quick breakdown of where to stay depending on your travel style and itinerary:

El Tunco: Chill Surf Vibes & Sunset Magic

If you’re craving beachy energy and laid-back days, El Tunco is the place to be. This tiny coastal town is known for surfing, sunsets, and smoothie bowls, and it’s super walkable. I stayed here for four nights and honestly could’ve stayed longer. 

Accommodations range from budget hostels with social vibes to boutique hotels and beachfront resorts. Just know it gets busy on weekends (locals love it too), so definitely book ahead if you’re coming in high season.

I stayed at Casa Makoi in El Tunco ($), a cute guest house which was the perfect spot to relax after days in the sweltering sun. It’s less than a 5-minute walk from the beach (literally down the street) and right in the center of town (meaning plenty of restaurants and pupusas). Plus, the owner’s dog Pepe was so cute!

They made a killer made-to-order breakfast every morning – I loved my desayuno típico (eggs, beans, plantains, and toast)! And there’s a cute little plunge pool that I totally took advantage of almost every afternoon. The perfect spot for a gal traveling solo!

If I was traveling with friends or my husband, I would’ve chosen Balance Surf Yoga Retreat, Boca Olas Resort & Villas, or Hotel Casa Miramar El Tunco. I was trying to save a bit of money since I have tons of travel coming up, haha. 

  • Pro tip: Many places include surfboard rentals or can hook you up with a local instructor. If you want a pool, there’s great options that still keep the beach-town charm.
  • Wi-Fi was decent in most places, and I always felt safe walking around solo.

San Salvador: City Base for Day Trips & Culture

San Salvador might not be love-at-first-sight, but hear me out: it’s absolutely worth a stay. I used it as a hub for day trips (like the Santa Ana Volcano and Ruta de los Flores), and it worked beautifully. I stayed at Hotel Citlalli in the Zona Rosa/San Benito area, which is modern, clean, and packed with restaurants, coffee shops, and grocery stores. It’s also one of the safest neighborhoods in the city and super walkable. 

I also contemplated staying at Barceló San Salvador, but decided to save some cash so opted for Hotel Citlalli.

  • Bonus: There’s free walking tours and tons of cultural spots right in the city.
  • Uber makes it really easy to get around, and most hotels are well-versed in helping with tours and transportation (although English is a bit lacking).

Other Places to Stay in El Salvador

  • Santa Ana: The perfect base for volcano adventures! If you want to stay closer to the Santa Ana Volcano or Coatepeque Lake, consider spending a night or two in Santa Ana. It’s a pretty town with a striking Gothic cathedral and a more local feel. I didn’t stay overnight here, but it’s a solid option for breaking up your travel days.
  • Ruta de los Flores: Wanna sleep in a flower-filled mountain town?! Though I only visited Ruta de los Flores as a day trip, lots of people choose to stay a night or two in one of the small towns along the route. Juayúa, Apaneca, and Ataco are all great options with charming guesthouses, boutique hotels, and local markets. Staying here means you can enjoy the food festivals (if you’re lucky enough to be there on a weekend), go coffee tasting, or just soak up the peaceful small-town vibe.
  • El Zonte: This is the perfect (quiet!) coastal escape! If El Tunco’s a little too busy for your taste, head to El Zonte. It’s just 15–20 minutes down the road but way more chill. El Zonte has a strong surf culture and a growing ecotourism scene. Think yoga retreats, boutique hostels, and slower beach days. Great for relaxing, surfing, or just avoiding crowds.

What to Eat in El Salvador 

El Salvador may be small (I know I keep saying that, haha), but its food scene is full of bold flavors and comforting, homey dishes you won’t forget. From cheesy pupusas to hearty soups and sweet plantain treats, there’s a whole lot to love (and eat!) here. Come hungry – you’re gonna wanna try everything. 

For the record, I ate over a dozen pupusas during my week in El Salvador – I just couldn’t get enough! So fresh and gooey and delicious!

  • Pupusas: The national dish! Thick corn tortillas stuffed with cheese, beans, chicharrón (pork), or loroco (an edible flower). Always served with curtido (a tangy cabbage slaw) and tomato salsa.
  • Yuca frita: Fried cassava root, often served with chicharrón and curtido. Super crispy on the outside, soft inside.
  • Pan con pollo: A Salvadoran-style chicken sandwich with roasted chicken, fresh veggies, and a flavorful tomato sauce, all tucked into crusty bread.
  • Tamales: Made with corn dough (masa) and filled with chicken, pork, or veggies, then steamed in banana leaves for extra flavor.
  • Sopa de res: A hearty beef soup with chunks of corn, yucca, carrots, and cabbage. Total comfort food.
  • Sopa de gallina india: Traditional country-style chicken soup, rich and flavorful, often made with free-range hen.
  • Empanadas de plátano: Not your average empanada. These are made with sweet mashed plantains, filled with either sweet milk custard or beans, and lightly fried.
  • Riguas: Griddled corn cakes made from fresh corn, sometimes with cheese inside. Great as a snack or side.
  • Atol de elote: A warm, sweet corn-based drink (kinda like drinking a creamy corn pudding). Cozy and super traditional.
  • Fresco de ensalada: A refreshing fruit drink made with finely chopped apples, pineapple, and other fruits floating in a lightly sweet juice (kinda like in Tlaquepaque in Guadalajara, MX).
  • Elote loco: “Crazy corn” slathered in mayo, ketchup, mustard, cheese, and hot sauce. Wild, messy, and oddly addictive. Similar but different to my fave elote I love in Mexico City

And now, what you’ve been waiting for, a complete week in El Salvador itinerary! 

The Best One Week in El Salvador Itinerary

But first, a few notes about this El Salvador itinerary.

  • This El Salvador itinerary assumes you have a full 7 days in El Salvador. Meaning if your flight arrives mid-day or late at night, you’ll want an extra day in order to see and do all the things on this itinerary.
  • It starts off busy, busy, busy, then gets into a more relaxed pace later on in the week. I recommend doing all your adventurous, active stuff early on in your trip, then hanging at the beach on the last few days.
  • You can technically stay in the same accommodation for the entire week in El Salvador (the country isn’t terribly large), but I liked having different areas to explore at night. Plus, certain attractions/activities just make more sense from one area vs. the other.

El Salvador Itinerary At-A-Glance

  • Day 1: San Salvador City Tour and El Boquerón
  • Day 2: Santa Ana Volcano Hike and Lunch at Coatepeque Lake
  • Day 3: Ruta de las Flores
  • Day 4: Scenic Views and Lago de Ilopango – OR – Suchitoto
  • Days 5-6: El Tunco Beach
  • Day 7: El Zonte 

Day 1: San Salvador City Tour + El Boquerón + Dinner in Zona Rosa

Your first full day in El Salvador is all about diving into the heart of the country – its capital, San Salvador. This city’s got grit, charm, history, and some surprisingly beautiful spots. It’s a great way to ease into the rhythm of El Salvador before heading off to the beaches or mountains.

Stop 1: Explore the Historic Center 

Start your morning in the bustling historic center, where old meets new in the most chaotic, colorful way. I did a walking tour around San Salvador and it was one of the highlights of my trip. 

The guide was super knowledgeable, gave great historical context, and pointed out things I’d never have noticed on my own. Plus she took us to a local market where I got the most delicious local cookies for only a few cents and then a super refreshing coconut water (in a bag)! If you’re a foodie and interested in trying some of the local foods, this food and market tour looks perfect.

You can really see so much – most highlights of San Salvador are only a few blocks away from each other. Here’s a few sights to prioritize:

  • Plaza Libertad: the heart of the city, full of locals, street vendors, and music.
  • Iglesia El Rosario: By far my favorite stop. It looks like really nothing special on the outside, but step in and you’re surrounded by rainbow-colored stained glass that arcs over the ceiling. Hands down one of the most unique churches I’ve ever seen (maybe besides that church we saw in Helsinki, Finland years back).
  • Catedral Metropolitana: massive, imposing, and holds the tomb of Archbishop Óscar Romero (a major figure in Salvadoran history).
  • National Palace and Teatro Nacional: beautiful architecture and historical significance, even if you’re just admiring from outside.

On a walking tour, you’ll also learn a ton about the civil war, the city’s resilience, and how things are changing fast in El Salvador.

Bonus: If you’re not into walking tours (they can be crowded), or just want a more structured day, there’s combo day tours that include both San Salvador and El Boquerón – some even throw in a stop at Picnic Steak House, where you can ride the Insta-famous rainbow slide with views of the city. This one got rave reviews and is super popular (book in advance for sure). Here’s another walking tour option if that one’s all booked up.

Stop 2: Parque Cuscatlán

From there, head to Parque Cuscatlán – a shady, peaceful park that feels like a little oasis in the middle of the city. Inside, you’ll find the Monumento a la Memoria y la Verdad, a long, black granite wall engraved with the names of over 75,000 people who lost their lives during the Salvadoran Civil War. It’s incredibly moving, and worth taking a few minutes to walk the length of it and reflect. This was one of those spots that really stayed with me.

There’s also a modern cultural center and some cool sculptures scattered throughout the park.

Stop 3: Pupusa Lunch

You can’t come to El Salvador and not eat pupusas. Trust me, the ones you’ve had outside the country don’t even compare. Head to Pupusería Doña Isabel or Dips Terraza for your first real taste. I’m obsessed with cheese + loroco, but revueltas (pork, beans, and cheese) are the classic. Top ‘em with spicy curtido (fermented cabbage slaw) and tomato salsa – don’t be shy.

They’re cheap, filling, and so good you’ll probably want them every day. I know I did, haha!

Stop 4: Afternoon at El Boquerón National Park

Once you’re fueled up, grab an Uber or join a tour and head to El Boquerón, a massive volcanic crater that looms over the city. It’s part of Volcán San Salvador and only about 30 – 40 minutes from the city center, but the change in scenery is wild – suddenly you’re surrounded by pine trees, cool mountain air, and panoramic views. It felt SO nice after sweating so much that morning, haha.

There’s a short loop trail that takes you around the edge of the crater with several scenic viewpoints. It’s super doable even if you’re not a hiker, just be prepared for a some steps! There’s also a couple of small stalls near the entrance selling souvenirs, snacks, and hot drinks if you get hungry.

Remember, if you’d rather come here with a tour (to get more context and such), this one includes a walking tour of downtown San Salvador, a visit to the insta-famous rainbow slide, and El Boqueron

A few tips:

  • It can get chilly up here, so bring a light layer – especially if you’re visiting in the late afternoon like we were.
  • You’ll need EXACT change. It’s $2 to enter the national park, and they do NOT take credit cards. I almost couldn’t enter because I could only scrounge up $1.90 from my pockets. Thankfully I found an extra dime lost in my purse. 

Stop 5: Dinner in Zona Rosa or San Benito

Finish your day in Zona Rosa or San Benito, two of San Salvador’s most upscale and expat-friendly neighborhoods. These areas are clean, safe, and full of great restaurants and bars. I had a delicious meal at Delikat – Italian-inspired with a leafy garden vibe – (my avocado pizza star was absolutely delicious), but there’s something for every craving – Salvadoran, sushi, steaks, you name it.

After dinner, if you’re up for it, grab drinks at Cadejo Brewing Company, Republik Bar, or Beer Station – all solid spots for a relaxed night out. Don’t miss gelato at Andián Bistro & Café (I loved it so much I went twice during my time in El Salvador) and/or coffee at Alquimia Coffee.

Day 2: Santa Ana Volcano Hike + Coatepeque Lake Lunch

Time to trade the city for volcano views! Day 2 is all about getting outside and soaking up some of El Salvador’s epic natural beauty. Trust me, this day on my El Salvador itinerary was one of my favorites.

And what a memorable and rewarding day of my trip – a perfect mix of adventure and relaxation. To make things simple, I joined a guided day tour from San Salvador that included both Santa Ana Volcano and Coatepeque Lake, and I’d totally recommend it. Not only did it make logistics easy (no stress about transportation or timing), but our guide also shared tons of cool info along the way. And it was super enjoyable hiking with other people and motivating each other to get to the top.

This is the exact Santa Ana hiking tour I joined if you’re interested in doing the same one!

Stop 1: Hike the Santa Ana Volcano (Volcán Ilamatepec)

Santa Ana Volcano (aka Volcán Ilamatepec) is the highest volcano in all of El Salvador, standing tall at over 2,300 meters (7,750 feet). And it’s one of the most iconic hikes in the country – and for good reason. 

The trail winds through cloud forests and rocky switchbacks before spitting you out at the summit, where you’re rewarded with a surreal view: a bright turquoise crater lake bubbling at the center of the volcano. It’s still considered active (the last eruption was in 2005), but don’t worry – it’s closely monitored, and hikers are only allowed to go up during safe conditions. 

We left the city around 6:30am (yes, early!) and made the 2-hour drive to Cerro Verde National Park, where the hike begins. You’ll start at the ranger station, then join a mandatory guided group hike (we started around 8:30am). 

The hike itself is about 4 hours round-trip and considered moderate. We climbed through cloud forest, rocky trails, and volcanic gravel, gaining around 1,500 feet in elevation. Don’t worry – it’s not a brutal climb, and people of all ages do it, but I definitely felt it for sure.

Not gonna lie, I was pretty nervous before the hike. Our guide mentioned that it’s not uncommon for people to turn back before reaching the top, which definitely planted some doubt. But I pushed through, used a walking stick (highly recommended!), and totally crushed it. 

I felt so proud standing at the summit, staring into the electric turquoise crater lake bubbling inside the volcano. Don’t miss a homemade paleta at the top (I had a passionfruit one and it was delicious)! Just FYI – the crater’s gases continuously smoke, so you may need to wait a bit for it to clear.

Going up was steady and challenging, but the way down was harder for me – loose rocks, wobbly legs, you get the idea – but I did it!

Need-to-knows:

  • Bring cash for park entry (~$3) if your tour doesn’t include it plus tips for the guide/s
  • It’s cooler up there, so layer up.
  • You can certainly go yourself if you can get to the base of the volcano, but you’ll still need to join a local guide (and be aware you’re only allowed to start the hike before a certain time, so plan on getting to the volcano before 10am at the latest).
  • If you’re not planning on joining a guided tour from San Salvador, I recommend spending the night beforehand in Santa Ana so you’re significantly closer to the volcano. 

Stop 2: Chill and Lunch at Lago de Coatepeque

After the hike, we drove about 45 minutes to Coatepeque Lake, a massive crater lake with stunning water that shifts from deep blue to bright emerald depending on the sunlight. It’s a total local favorite and the perfect place to unwind after the climb.

We had lunch right by the water at La Octava Maravilla – fried fish (my first time having mojarra!) and plantains just hit different after a sweaty(ish) hike. And the views, OMG! I’ll never say no to a meal overlooking a bright blue lake! I couldn’t stop taking photos, haha.

A few other spots you can check out:

  • La Pampa Restaurant 
  • Restaurante Las Palmeras
  • Tekunal Lago De Coatepeque

Some restaurants here even offer day passes to their pools or waterfront lounging areas, so bring a swimsuit if that’s your vibe. Since I was on a tour (which was amazing by the way) I didn’t get to choose the restaurant, but I was more than pleased with the one we went to. Some tours bring you to super touristy spots, so thankfully this wasn’t the case. 

Heads up: If you’re going back to San Salvador after, plan for traffic – especially on weekends. It definitely took a while to get back. Don’t make any major plans afterwards. 

I learned a lot from my guide, soaked in views I’ll never forget, and proved to myself I could conquer that hike. If you’re up for an active day with a big payoff, this one’s for you!

Once you get back to the city, you can totally hang out and grab dinner. I was honestly way too exhausted to even think about a night out though, haha. Rest and take out it was for me!

Day 3: Ruta de los Flores

Next up – an adventure west of San Salvador for a full-day tour along the iconic Ruta de los Flores – aka the Flower Route. 

What is it exactly?

A scenic mountain route that winds through five charming colonial towns: Nahuizalco, Salcoatitán, Juayúa, Apaneca, and Concepción de Ataco (most people just call it Ataco). Each town has its own personality, but they’re all incredibly colorful, covered in murals, surrounded by nature, and full of artisan markets, street food, and coffee culture.

While I didn’t make it to all five (totally understandable on a one-day trip), the towns I did explore were packed with color, culture, and most importantly, coffee!

I booked a guided day tour, which was honestly the best way to do it. Not having to drive those winding roads myself was a blessing, and our guide was amazing – super knowledgeable and fun. She shared stories about the local Indigenous communities, pointed out plants and volcanoes along the drive, and even gave us restaurant and food recommendations at each stop.

One of my favorite stops was at a 100-year-old family-run coffee farm, where I learned all about how coffee is grown, harvested, and roasted in the region. I’ve been on coffee tours before (namely Panama and Colombia), but I found it fascinating (and the tasting at the end didn’t hurt either). And the lush mountain scenery made it even better – like sipping your morning brew right in the middle of where it all begins.

We also stopped at Café Albania, one of the most instagrammable spots on the route, and I couldn’t resist trying their famous rainbow slide – yes, it’s as exhilarating as it looks. It’s pretty touristy and expensive ($10 for one ride), but I couldn’t not do it since I was right there! To be honest, I wouldn’t go all the way to the Ruta de Los Flores just for the rainbow slide, but I’m glad I got to go!

Other people in my group opted for the bike zipline (which looked equally as epic) and the canopy course, so there’s definitely something for every vibe.

If you happen to visit on a weekend, definitely time it with the Juayúa food festival – it’s held every Saturday and Sunday. Think grilled meats, pupusas, stews, and sweets all set up in a lively plaza atmosphere. I didn’t end up visiting Juayúa on the weekend, which meant I missed the famous food festival – kind of a bummer but oh well. 

Highly recommend bringing cash for souvenirs and snacks – and don’t forget your camera. You’ll definitely wanna take some pictures!

A few extra things to know about the Ruta de los Flores:

  • Best time to visit: The route is especially beautiful between November and February, when the namesake flowers are in full bloom. The roads are lined with colorful bursts of bougainvillea, wildflowers, and lush greenery – it’s honestly like driving through a painting. I went in early April and while there were some flowers still in bloom, I can’t even imagine how stunning it must be a bit earlier in the season!
  • There’s different tours to book: If you’ve got the rainbow slide on your El Salvador bucket list (like me!), sign yourself up on this tour. Other ones visit more towns, and some even make a stop at the hot springs!
  • Street art & artisan goods: Many of the towns, especially Ataco and Nahuizalco, are known for their vibrant murals and local crafts. You’ll find handwoven textiles, wood carvings, and all sorts of souvenirs that actually feel special (not touristy junk). If you love murals and colorful facades, Ataco is your town.
  • Markets & local eats: Even if you miss Juayúa’s weekend food fest like I did, there’s still loads of local spots and street vendors to try. Don’t skip pupusas from a roadside stand, or a cup of atol, a warm traditional drink made from corn. You’ll also find unique treats like yuca con chicharrón or fried plantains with crema.
  • Coffee is the star: This region is El Salvador’s coffee heartland, so take full advantage – whether that’s visiting a finca, sipping single-origin brews in a mountain café, or stocking up on beans to bring home. You’ll honestly taste the difference – smooth, rich, and so fresh.
  • Bring layers: The Ruta climbs into the mountains, so it can be cooler and breezier than the coast. I was glad I brought a light jacket for the morning.
  • Photo ops galore: Between flower-lined streets, hillside views, charming architecture, and mural-covered walls, it’s all so pretty! Have your camera or phone ready.

Day 4: Scenic Views and Pupusas with a View – OR – a Colonial Detour to Suchitoto

On my fourth day, I had two very different options in mind: either stick close to San Salvador and explore the scenic hills and local eats around Puerta del Diablo and Lago de Ilopango, or make a longer day trip to the colonial town of Suchitoto

I chose the first option – mostly because I’ve been to Antigua, Guatemala a few times, and I kept hearing Suchitoto had a similar vibe. Plus, I was trying to save a bit of money and I couldn’t find a day tour that fit my budget (cost-effective tours to Suchitoto are harder to find for solo travelers unfortunately). I could’ve taken the local bus, but Suchitoto’s kinda far and I didn’t feel like figuring out the bus situation, haha. But if you’ve never been to Antigua or you love quaint cobblestone towns and lake views, it’s still totally worth considering!

Option 1: Puerta del Diablo + Lago de Ilopango + Pupusas

What I chose! Start your day with a trip to Puerta del Diablo (“Devil’s Door”), a dramatic mountain pass just 30 minutes from the city with sweeping views of the valleys and volcanoes below. You can hike around the cliffs or just enjoy the breezy vistas – it’s stunning on a clear day. If you’re afraid of heights, fair warning: it gets steep and rocky, but you can take it at your own pace. 

Next, head over to Lago de Ilopango, a massive crater lake just east of San Salvador. I grabbed lunch at a spot overlooking the water (Cafe Santa Cruz), but there’s others like Las Tres Pedras perched up on the cliffs with panoramic views. And just like Coatepeque Lake, Ilopango is absolutely stunning. I found the lake to be especially pretty in the early afternoon when the sun hit it just right, and you might even spot some boats or jet skis out on the water.

In true travel magic fashion, I actually met a super sweet family while exploring Puerta del Diablo – they were visiting relatives in El Salvador and invited me to join them for lunch at Lago de Ilopango. I didn’t have any set plans after my morning hike, so I figured, why not? We ended up sharing a lovely lakeside meal, chatting about their favorite local spots, and soaking up the view together. It was one of those spontaneous moments that reminded me why I love solo travel so much.

Wrap up your day in Los Planes de Renderos, a scenic hilltop area known for its cool climate, pine trees, and – most importantly – pupusas! I went to Abbi Pupusería just a few minutes away from the viewpoint, and, oh my god, the view + the crispy edges on those pupusas? Unmatched. 

It’s the perfect place to wind down the day with a cold drink and a plate (or three) of your favorite fillings. I of course had my favorite bean and cheese, as well as loroco, then watched the sunset (with a view of more volcanoes!) from Los Planes de Renderos and had a chill night.

Option 2: Full Day Trip to Suchitoto

If you’re craving cobblestone streets, pastel-colored colonial buildings, and a relaxed small-town vibe, Suchitoto is a solid day trip option from San Salvador. Often called the cultural capital of El Salvador, this charming town sits about 90 minutes northeast of the city and is known for its well-preserved architecture, rich artistic traditions, and beautiful views over Lake Suchitlán.

You can explore Suchitoto on your own with a rental car, but I’d recommend booking a guided tour – especially if you’re short on time or want to pack in multiple activities. Here’s another option!

Most day tours include hotel pickup and a stop at the lake, plus time to explore the town’s highlights: the whitewashed Church of Santa Lucía (built in the 1800s), the local art galleries, and the small but interesting Museo de los Recuerdos. If you’re into handicrafts, there’s plenty of places selling indigo-dyed textiles and handmade souvenirs – since this area has a long history with indigo production. This tour even stops at the stunning Ilopango Lake as well!

Many tours also include a scenic boat ride on Lake Suchitlán (bonus: great birdwatching), or even a visit to a nearby indigo workshop where you can try dyeing your own cloth. The pace is slower here than in San Salvador, making it a perfect place to unwind and get a feel for El Salvador’s artistic side.

As noted above, I personally skipped Suchitoto this time around since I’ve been to Antigua, Guatemala a few times. But if you haven’t experienced a place like this before – or if you just want a relaxing day full of art, culture, and lake views – it’s absolutely worth considering. Next time for me!

Days 5 and 6: El Tunco

Get ready for some BEACH TIME! After bouncing around volcanoes, lakes, and colonial towns, it’s finally time to chill – and there’s no better place for it than El Tunco. 

This little beach town on El Salvador’s Pacific coast is the place to be if you’re into surfing, sunsets, and an easygoing vibe. It’s just over an hour from San Salvador but feels like a completely different world.

Unlike its neighbors, El Salvador doesn’t have a Caribbean coastline – but trust me, the rugged black sand beaches and dramatic cliffs of its Pacific shore more than make up for it. Whether you’re a seasoned surfer or a total beginner (like me), this is the perfect place to take a surf lesson or just watch the pros do their thing while you sip a cold beer on the beach. And the sunsets here? Absolutely unreal. 

The town gets its name from a funky rock formation just off the shore that looks like – you guessed it – a pig (“tunco” in Salvadoran slang). That rock becomes a silhouette superstar at sunset, when basically the entire town gathers on the beach to watch the sky turn wild shades of orange and pink. And when you’re walking around, make sure to keep your eyes peeled for toucans (!!!) — I saw a few collared aracari’s flying around (which are in the toucan family).

How to Get to El Tunco from San Salvador

It’s super easy to get here from the capital. El Tunco is just about an hour’s drive from San Salvador (give or take, depending on traffic). I used Uber to get there and back, and the prices were fair – around $40 for an hour’s ride. You can also take a private shuttle, hop on a bus (Route 102A will drop you nearby), or rent a car if you’re doing more of the country by road. 

Just be warned: El Salvador LOVES speed bumps. Like, really loves them. If you’re driving, stay alert unless you want your coffee to end up in your lap, haha.

Things to do in El Tunco

I kept my time in El Tunco pretty flexible – wandering/photographing the town, grabbing pupusas and smoothie bowls, and simply watching the waves roll in. There’s not really a “checklist” of things to do, and that’s exactly what makes it so appealing (no FOMO here). The best days here are the ones that unfold slowly – sun on your skin, salt in your hair, and a fresh coconut or cold beer in hand. 

At first I was a bit worried I’d be super bored in El Tunco, but I ended up getting into a sort of routine or so. Wake up, walk a block to the beach and watch the sunrise, snooze for another hour or so, have a delicious homemade meal at my cozy hotel, hang in a hammock for a bit and read, go for a long beach walk, get a smoothie bowl at a local cafe, wander the town, hang at a restaurant and get a watermelon juice, watch the surfers and sunset at the beach, and then grab pupusas for dinner.

But if you’re itching for some activities (I get it!), here’s what I recommend:

Take a Surf Lesson: Whether you’re a total newbie or just rusty, El Tunco is a great place to hop on a board. They don’t call it Surf City for nothing! Tons of local instructors offer affordable, low-pressure lessons, and the beach break here is known for being beginner-friendly. You’ll find solid options right in town, like Wayo Surf School, Bamboards Surf Academy, and El Tunco Surf School – all of which are super easy to book with once you arrive.

That said, don’t be surprised if your instructor suggests heading to a different beach nearby instead – the surf conditions at El Tunco can vary depending on tides and waves, so some lessons will take place in spots like El Zonte or Sunzal (just a short drive away) where the waves might be better for learning that day. It all depends on the swell, but the instructors know what they’re doing and will take you where you’ve got the best shot at standing up and catching a wave.

And if surfing’s not your thing, no worries. Post up on the beach and enjoy watching everyone else wipe out with style (that’s what I did!). It’s surprisingly entertaining. After visiting a few surf hot spots around the world (namely Bondi Beach, Australia, Sayulita/San Pancho, and now El Salvador), I can totally see why the sport is so addicting.

It just so happened that I was in town for the epic Surf City El Salvador Pro surf competition (part of the World Surf League’s Championship Tour!), which was super exciting!

Wander the Town: El Tunco is teeny-tiny, but there’s enough to explore: cute shops, smoothie stands, tattoo studios, and colorful murals tucked into every corner. You’ll probably loop around the whole town in less than 20 minutes, but that doesn’t mean it gets old. Every time I walked through, I noticed something new.

Tamanique Waterfall Day Trip: One of the best short hikes in the area, this half-day guided adventure takes you through a palm-filled canyon to a series of waterfalls (yes, you can totally swim in them!). 

It’s a bit steep in parts, especially the way back up, so wear sturdy shoes and bring plenty of water. The waterfalls are gorgeous, with smooth rocks to lounge on and cliff-jumping spots for the bold. I decided to skip this as I had just hiked a few days before and wanted to relax a bit, and to be honest, I’m not too fussed with waterfalls (they just don’t do it for me – especially if I need to hike to them, lol).

Live Music on Tuesdays at Mopelias: If your visit overlaps with a Tuesday, don’t miss this. Mopelias is one of my favorite spots in town – super chill and great food – and the live music nights are a whole vibe. Locals and travelers gather with drinks, the music’s always good, and it’s the perfect way to wind down after a beach day. I stayed a few hours with some friends I met at my hotel, and it was such a fun night!

Pool Day Passes: Not in the mood for sand in your shoes? Nearby resorts like Atami Escape Resort offer day passes with infinity pools, epic ocean views, cocktails, and loungers. There’s also Papaya Surf Garden right in town, which is super easy to access. I spent a few hours here and it was *chef’s kiss*. The change of scenery (and access to a real bathroom, let’s be honest) was so worth it.

Watch the Sunset: Seriously, don’t miss a single one. Whether you’re sitting on the beach, sipping something cold at a rooftop bar, or wandering back from dinner, the sunsets here are some of the best I’ve seen. The sky lights up in pinks and golds, and the silhouettes of surfers riding the last waves of the day? Magic.

And when I visited in early April the beach was hardly crowded at sunset! I felt like I kinda had the beach almost to myself, which is all kinds of crazy.

Nightlife: El Tunco may be tiny, but it knows how to party. There’s something happening every night – beach bonfires, bars bumping reggaeton, random dance floors, and people just vibing by the waves. I’m not a big nightlife person when I travel, but even I found myself out way later than expected, cocktail in hand, soaking up the energy.

Where to Eat/Drink in El Tunco

I’ve gotta admit, I didn’t have too many full-on meals in El Tunco. It was hot hot hot, and when I’m feeling sticky and a little gross, heavy food is the last thing I want. Instead, I kept it light with smoothie bowls, tons of fresh fruit, refreshing watermelon juice (obsessed), and of course – pupusas, because duh.

Here’s a few spots I went:

  • Esquina los Amigos: THIS is the spot to go for pupusas. And where I went every single night I was in town, haha. This little local establishment had the best pupusas I had in all of El Salvador, and I had my fair share of course. Such a large variety of flavors and fillings, including loroco (a unique edible flower), revuelta (a mix of pork, beans, and cheese), and frijoles con queso (beans with cheese).
  • Mr. Coffee: I went here my first night in El Tunco after getting in late, and while I enjoyed my smoothie, the pupusas were so-so compared to Esquina los Amigos. Just FYI. There’s lots of coffee drinks as you’d expect from the name, so a great spot to come in the AM.
  • Bao House Playa El Tunco: A great spot to go if you’re craving Asian food in Central America. Yummy dumplings and shrimp bao buns!
  • Day Cafe, Surfcafe, and Point Break Cafe: All great spots for smoothie bowls, which seem to be an extremely popular thing here in El Tunco. I had them everyday and loved them (and almost as good as the ones I’ve had in Tulum, haha).
  • Ohana Surf Cafe & Ice Cream Shop: Coffee, pastries, ice cream, and frozen bananas!
  • La Bonita Beach Club: A great spot to watch the surfers at sunset with some drinks and appetizers. Yes, it’s kinda pricey (especially for El Salvadorian standards), but I loved the super trendy decor and the views were great.

Day 7: Day Trip to El Zonte

Next up, El Zonte, a laid-back surf town about 20 minutes from El Tunco (easy to get to with a $5 Uber). It’s quieter, more relaxed (yes, even more so than nearby El Tunco), and known for its black-sand beaches, consistent waves, and unique claim to fame: Bitcoin Beach. 

Yep, El Zonte is one of the first communities in the world to fully embrace Bitcoin. You’ll see Bitcoin ATMs right in town and can actually pay for food, drinks, and even your surf lessons using crypto. It’s wild.

I actually met a sweet couple during my walking tour in San Salvador who traveled to El Salvador specifically because they wanted to use Bitcoin in real life. We ended up having dinner together and chatted all things Bitcoin for over three hours. It’s that big of a thing here – and now I’m kind of fascinated by the whole concept and starting my own research.

But back to the beach! El Zonte has a mellow vibe and is a great spot for beginner surfers or anyone just wanting to chill by the ocean. You’ll find a few surf schools in town and plenty of locals out catching waves.

If surfing’s not your thing, it’s just as nice to relax on the sand or grab a cold drink and soak up the sun. El Zonte itself is tiny but packed with personality – think vibrant murals, chill cafés, and a laid-back, surf-town rhythm. It’s kinda El Tunco’s smaller little sister, kinda like how San Pancho relates to Sayulita over in Mexico!

If you’re craving a more relaxed, resort-style vibe, El Zonte has several great options for pool day passes. Both Palo Verde Sustainable Hotel, Puro Surf Hotel, and Esencia Nativa all offer access to their pools, plus tasty food and drinks. Poolside ceviche and a cold drink? Say no more.

I started my day at Covana Seaside Kitchen, the breezy oceanfront café inside the super stylish Puro Surf Hotel. While I didn’t get a day pass there, I did sip a smoothie and snack on fresh fruit before strolling down to the beach (not without first admiring the infinity pool and coastal views for a few minutes of course – wow!).

Later in the afternoon, I got a day pass at Palo Verde and spent hours lounging in the pool, sipping fresh coconuts, and practicing my Spanish with some friendly locals. For lunch, I walked over to Palma – a laid-back café nearby in town – and had a delicious smoothie bowl. Highly recommend it. I would’ve LOVED to take a pupusa making class, but I was too busy in the pool, haha.

Psst – This wouldn’t be a complete El Salvador itinerary without the mention of Nawi Beach House in Mizata, another especially popular spot on the coast that offers day passes. BUT unless you’ve got a car or plenty of people to share an Uber with, I don’t think it’s worth the cost since it’s about an hour away and will cost a pretty penny to get there. Personally, I loved my time at Palo Verde and that was way easier (and cheaper) to get to, haha.

Hope this helps you plan the most epic El Salvador itinerary! Are you headed to Central America soon?!



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3 Days in the Peruvian Amazon Rainforest (Puerto Maldonado) https://apassionandapassport.com/amazon-rainforest-peru-puerto-maldonado/ https://apassionandapassport.com/amazon-rainforest-peru-puerto-maldonado/#respond Fri, 14 Mar 2025 05:49:34 +0000 https://apassionandapassport.com/?p=32138 Heading to Peru and dreaming of an adventure in the Peruvian Amazon?! You’re in for an unforgettable trip! I’m covering everything you need to know – where to go, what to see, how to get there, and plenty of insider tips to make the most of your jungle adventure in Puerto Maldonado! Misty mornings onContinue Reading

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Heading to Peru and dreaming of an adventure in the Peruvian Amazon?! You’re in for an unforgettable trip! I’m covering everything you need to know – where to go, what to see, how to get there, and plenty of insider tips to make the most of your jungle adventure in Puerto Maldonado!

Misty mornings on the Tambopata River. Scarlet macaws swooping over clay licks. Towering kapok trees tangled in vines, hiding sloths and jaguars. CAPYBARAS (!!!) splashing through oxbow lakes, while caimans lurk in the shallows. Welcome to the Peruvian Amazon – wild, untamed, and teeming with life at every turn.

I’ve had the Amazon on my bucket list since the moment I even knew what a bucket list was. So when I started planning my 3-week Peru trip, there was no way I was skipping it. Puerto Maldonado (the capital city of the Madre de Dios region in southeast Peru) checked all the boxes. It’s relatively easy to get to, not overrun with tourists, and a solid bang for my buck. So off I went, ready to dive into the wild.

The Amazon Rainforest is a living, breathing powerhouse – pumping out 20% of the world’s oxygen and holding a staggering 20% of the planet’s river water. With an astonishing 40,000 plant species and a mind-blowing 2.5 million insect species, it’s one of the most biodiverse places on Earth. There’s simply nowhere else like it.

The jungle town of Puerto Maldonado is the ultimate gateway to the southern Amazon. Think endless rainforest, insane biodiversity, and some of the most wildlife-packed lakes around. I watched capybaras lounging by the water, white caimans and their babies gliding through the shallows, and flocks of colorful birds filling the sky. If you’re looking for a true Amazon experience, this is the place to be!

Psst – I visited the Amazon Rainforest in Peru at the end of a 3-week G Adventures Tour, and can’t recommend them enough. If you’re traveling to Peru on your own and want to visit the Amazon without any hassle, this 4-day Puerto Maldonado tour got excellent reviews and is great value! Can’t handle the humidity and would rather have a shorter stay like I did? Check out this 3-day tour instead! And definitely consider this one that goes to the macaw clay lick

That last one is the one I would have picked if my Amazon experience wasn’t already included in my longer 3-week Peru tour. All include transportation, meals, lodging, and a guide who will take you on daily wildlife excursions!

Is the Amazon a Jungle or Rainforest?

I was a little confused about this at first, so lemme clarify in case you’re unsure also. Yes, I know it’s called the Amazon Rainforest, but I kept calling it a jungle! 

So let’s set the record straight: The Amazon is a rainforest, and it’s actually the largest tropical rainforest in the world. However, the terms jungle and rainforest are sometimes used interchangeably, even though they’re not exactly the same.

  • A rainforest is a dense, tropical forest with high rainfall (at least 79 inches per year) and incredible biodiversity. The Amazon fits this definition perfectly.
  • A jungle is a type of dense forest, typically with thick undergrowth, making it harder to navigate. While parts of the Amazon do have jungle-like areas, much of the rainforest has a tall canopy with less undergrowth on the forest floor.

Where is the Peruvian Amazon Rainforest?

Before visiting and doing research, I had no idea just how massive the Peruvian Amazon really was. Covering 782,880 square kilometers (302,000 square miles) – about twice the size of Germany or the combined size of Texas and California – it actually makes up 60% of Peru’s total land area. Which is INSANE to me considering I spent almost 3 weeks exploring other parts of Peru.

Yet, despite its size, it remains one of the least populated regions, with vast stretches of untouched rainforest teeming with wildlife. As part of the larger Amazon Rainforest, which spans multiple South American countries (nine to be exact!), Peru’s section stands out as one of the most biodiverse places on Earth. 

If you’re looking to explore the Amazon in Peru, there are a few different areas, which I’ll explain in detail below.

Puerto Maldonado

Puerto Maldonado is one of the most accessible and popular gateways to the Peruvian Amazon – perfect for travelers who want to experience the jungle without an overly complicated journey (like me!). 

It sits in the southeastern part of the country, only 55 kilometers (34 miles) from the Bolivian border, right where the Tambopata and Madre de Dios rivers meet. Since it has an airport and decent infrastructure, it’s an easy place to start an Amazon adventure while still feeling completely immersed in nature.  

Psst – Puerto Maldonado itself isn’t exactly the rainforest experience you’re imagining; it’s actually a bustling little town! To truly immerse yourself in the Amazon, you’ll need to venture beyond the city limits. Most lodges require a journey by car and then a longboat ride along winding rivers to reach the heart of the jungle. This is where I went and where all my photos are from!

Iquitos

On the other hand, Iquitos is deep in the northern Amazon and is the largest city in the world that can’t be reached by road – only by plane or boat. It’s the place to go for a true off-the-grid experience, with river cruises, remote lodges, and even pink river dolphins in the waters of the Amazon River itself. It’s more developed than Puerto Maldonado but also more difficult to reach.  

Manú National Park

You’ll also see tours for Manú National Park advertised all over Cusco. Manú is one of the most protected parts of the Peruvian Amazon, meaning fewer tourists, but also trickier logistics. Getting there requires a long, bumpy journey by road and river, making it best for those who want a more rugged, off-the-beaten-path experience.  

Since we visited Puerto Maldonado, that’s what this Peruvian Amazon blog post will focus on! It’s an incredible place to experience the jungle’s wild beauty, packed with diverse wildlife, stunning lakes, and a mix of adventure and relaxation.

Wildlife in Puerto Maldonado vs. Other Parts of the Amazon  

While the entire Amazon Rainforest is a biodiversity hotspot, different regions have unique ecosystems, meaning the wildlife you’ll encounter can vary. Puerto Maldonado, located in the southern Amazon, is home to an incredible range of species, particularly in the Tambopata National Reserve. 

Here, you’ll find red howler monkeys, capuchins, squirrel monkeys, dusky titi monkeys, and the occasional spider monkey. The riverbanks are prime spots for white caimans, capybaras (the world’s largest rodent), and plenty of birdlife, including horned screamers, herons, and vibrant macaws. This region is also famous for its oxbow lakes, where you might see giant river otters (though they’re rare) and side-necked turtles basking in the sun.  

Other parts of the Amazon offer different wildlife experiences. In Iquitos, in the northern Peruvian Amazon, you’re more likely to see pink river dolphins swimming in the murky waters of the Amazon River. This region also has higher humidity and more seasonal flooding, which creates a different ecosystem where sloths, anacondas, and tree-dwelling species thrive. The forests here tend to be denser and wetter, making wildlife spotting a bit trickier but rewarding.  

In the Brazilian Amazon, near Manaus, the sheer scale of the rainforest means a greater chance of encountering jaguars, piranhas, and even harpy eagles. This part of the Amazon is also home to the massive Victoria Amazonica water lilies and unique flooded forest ecosystems.  

So, if you’re visiting Puerto Maldonado, expect an incredible mix of monkeys, macaws, capybaras, and caimans, with the possibility of spotting elusive creatures like sloths and river otters. But if your dream is to see pink dolphins or anacondas, you might want to venture further north into the deeper Amazon.

But set your expectations accordingly – this is the rainforest, and wildlife is, well, wild! While you’re guaranteed to see plenty of incredible creatures, there’s no way to predict exactly what will cross your path. If you’re dreaming of spotting a jaguar or an anaconda, just know that sightings are extremely rare. 

Our guides, who have worked in the jungle for years, told us they’ve only seen them a handful of times. Since you’ll only be there for a few days, the odds aren’t in your favor – but trust me, the Amazon has plenty of other incredible wildlife to keep you in awe!

When to Visit the Peruvian Amazon

Choosing when to visit the Peruvian Amazon can make or break your experience, depending on what you’re looking for. No matter when you go, expect hot and humid conditions year-round — it’s the rainforest, after all! But the level of rain, river conditions, and even wildlife sightings can change drastically depending on the season.

Dry Season (April to October) – Best for Clear Skies & Easier Exploration

We visited in early August, and the conditions were absolutely perfect – plenty of sunshine, lower humidity (relatively speaking), and fewer mosquitos than in the wetter months. 

This is the best time to visit if you want:

  • Easier hiking: Trails are drier and less muddy.
  • More wildlife sightings: Animals tend to stick closer to the riverbanks since there’s less standing water deep in the jungle.
  • Better boat travel: Water levels are lower, meaning fewer obstacles and smoother rides.
  • Clearer skies for stargazing: With less cloud cover, the Amazon night sky is unreal! Including the Milky Way!

While it’s the “dry” season, don’t expect zero rain – this is still the rainforest, and short but intense showers can happen anytime. But in general, they’re less frequent and don’t disrupt activities as much as in the wet season.

Wet Season (November to March/April) – Lush Scenery & Higher Water Levels

If you visit during the rainy season, prepare for daily downpours and extremely high humidity. February tends to be the rainiest month, and heavy storms can lead to flooded trails, rescheduled activities, or even cancellations if water levels get too high. Thankfully, most lodges supply trekking boots when the hiking is exceptionally muddy. 

However, visiting in this season does have some unique perks:

  • The jungle is at its lushest and greenest: Everything feels extra alive!
  • Rivers are much higher: Meaning boat access is better, and you can venture deeper into areas that are harder to reach in the dry season.
  • Some wildlife is easier to spot: Aquatic species, in particular, thrive in the flooded forest.

One big thing to note – rainfall varies from year to year, especially due to El Niño, which affects the entire climate of Peru. Some years see much heavier or lighter rains than usual, so it’s always good to check recent conditions before booking.

So, when’s the best time to go? If you want ideal weather, better hiking conditions, and fewer trip disruptions, the dry season (April to October) is your best bet. But if you’re after lush jungle scenery and higher water levels for boat access, the wet season (November to March/April) might be worth considering – just be prepared for rain, and lots of it!

How to Get to Puerto Maldonado

Getting to Puerto Maldonado is an adventure in itself! While it’s deep in the Amazon, it’s surprisingly accessible compared to other jungle destinations in Peru. Here’s exactly how to get there:

Step 1: Fly to Puerto Maldonado

The easiest way to reach Puerto Maldonado is by flying. The town has a small airport, Padre Aldamiz International Airport (PEM), which receives daily flights from Cusco and Lima. If you’re coming from Cusco, you’re in luck—there are direct flights that take only about 1 hour. However, if you’re flying from Lima, you’ll need to connect through Cusco, as there are no non-stop flights. LATAM, Sky Airline, and JetSMART are the main airlines that operate this route.

We flew directly from Cusco, and I was glued to the window the entire time. Once we started descending into the Amazon, the views were absolutely unreal – just an endless stretch of deep green jungle as far as you can see. Absolutely insane!

FYI – there’s now an 8-10 hour bus from Cusco, thanks to a newly built highway connecting the two cities. But honestly, with flights being so quick and affordable, I’d stick with the plane!

Step 2: Transfer to the Lodge’s Office

Most jungle lodges offer airport pickup, which makes things super easy. After landing, a lodge representative was waiting for us right outside baggage claim to shuttle us into town, where we made a quick stop at their office. 

This is where you’ll pack your duffle bag for the jungle (lodges typically provide these to limit luggage weight on the boat). Your main suitcase stays securely stored at the office while you head into the rainforest with just the essentials. 

I was definitely overthinking what to bring, but they gave clear instructions – bug spray, a flashlight, and extra socks were non-negotiables! Way more info on what to pack further down in this Peru Amazon blog post – promise it’s not as difficult as it seems to pack!

Step 3: Drive to the River Port

Once everyone’s packed and ready, it’s time for a 30 to 45-minute drive on a bumpy dirt road to the river port. The ride itself is a bit of an adventure – we passed through thick jungle, small villages, and the occasional roadside stand selling fresh coconuts. Keep your eyes peeled for wildlife; we unfortunately didn’t see anything just yet.

Step 4: Boat Ride into the Amazon

Now for the best part – the 2 to 3-hour boat ride deep into the rainforest! You’ll cruise along the Tambopata or Madre de Dios River, depending on which lodge you’re staying at. These long, motorized canoes have a roof for shade and comfy seats for the ride. The journey isn’t just transportation – it’s your first real introduction to the Amazon. Our guide pointed out howler monkeys, capybaras, caimans, and even some vibrant macaws along the way.

By the time you reach your lodge, you’ll feel completely immersed in the Amazon, surrounded by nothing but jungle sounds and the flowing river. For reference, we took an early morning flight, and didn’t arrive at the lodge until almost sunset. It was a long and tiring travel day, but well worth it!

What to Bring to the Amazon Rainforest 

Packing for the Amazon is all about staying cool, dry, and bite-free – but let’s be real, no one is walking out of the jungle sweat-free (I looked like a glazed donut the entire time, haha). 

The lodge provides a duffel bag, so you’ll need to pack light (aka, your giant suitcase stays behind). Just note that nothing really dries in the jungle, so if something gets wet, be prepared to wear it damp or let it stay that way until you’re back in civilization!

Here’s what you’ll actually want to bring:  

Clothing & Footwear  

  • Long pants: Lightweight and breathable to keep bugs off while not roasting alive.  
  • Cool, loose clothing: Think moisture-wicking fabrics, NOT jeans. Trust me.  
  • High socks: For tucking your pants into (yes, you’ll look ridiculous, but it keeps the bugs out).  
  • Sneakers or hiking boots/trail runners: The jungle floor can be muddy and uneven.  
  • Hat: Wide-brim for extra sun protection. Bonus if it makes you feel like an explorer.  

Essentials for Surviving the Jungle  

  • Bug spray: The strongest DEET you can find. The mosquitoes here are on another level, especially if you visit during the rainy season.
  • Sunscreen: Because even in the shade, the equatorial sun does not play.  
  • Toiletries: The basics (plus extra deodorant, because wow, the sweat is real).  
  • Portable little battery-powered fan: Absolute lifesaver in the heat and humidity.  
  • Quick-dry towel: If your lodge doesn’t provide one, you’ll want it for sweaty hikes/swims.  
  • Light rain jacket or poncho: Sudden downpours happen.  

Extras You’ll Thank Me For  

  • Headlamp or flashlight: Night walks are pitch black, and you’ll need your own light.  
  • Binoculars: To actually see that sloth your guide is pointing at.  
  • Dry bag: Protects your phone and camera from rain/humidity.  
  • Power bank: Some lodges have limited electricity, so charging devices can be tricky.  
  • Notebook & pen: If you like jotting down wildlife sightings or jungle thoughts.  
  • Earplugs: The rainforest is LOUD at night. If you’re a light sleeper, these are a must.  

I had grand plans of looking all cute and all, but after five minutes in the sweltering humidity, I gave up. Function over fashion wins every time in the Amazon, haha!

A few more packing tips to survive the jungle’s relentless moisture:

  • Go for quick-dry fabrics: Think lightweight, moisture-wicking materials like polyester or merino wool. Cotton will just soak up sweat and never fully dry.
  • Pack extra socks and underwear: Trust me, nothing is worse than putting on damp socks. Bring a few extra pairs so you always have a dry option.
  • Loose, breathable clothing is key: Tight clothes will cling to your sweaty skin – stick to loose-fitting pants and shirts to stay comfortable.
  • Waterproof everything: Use dry bags or plastic bags with a zip (ziplock bags) to keep essentials (like electronics and important documents) from getting damp.
  • Bring a small microfiber towel: Dries faster than a regular towel and is perfect for wiping off sweat or drying off after a shower.
  • Antifungal powder or wipes: The combo of heat, sweat, and damp clothes can cause skin irritation – this helps keep things fresh.

And the most important tip? Mentally prepare for the humidity! No matter what you wear, you’re going to be sweaty and damp – just embrace it!

Where to Stay in Puerto Maldonado

We stayed at Tambopata Ecolodge, and it was everything I hoped for in an Amazon jungle lodge – remote, eco-friendly, and completely immersive in nature. Tucked deep in the rainforest, the lodge is only accessible by boat, making the journey there feel like part of the adventure. 

We slept in thatched-roof bungalows that were rustic but comfortable, with mosquito-netted beds, open-air designs, and candlelit ambiance at night (no electricity in the rooms, but honestly, that just added to the experience). Meals were freshly prepared and surprisingly delicious, and the staff was fantastic – super knowledgeable and passionate about the jungle. Even our room keys were capybara keychains!

One of my favorite parts? Falling asleep to the sounds of the Amazon, from distant howler monkeys to the chorus of frogs and cicadas. If you’re looking for a true off-the-grid Amazon experience without sacrificing comfort, Tambopata Ecolodge is an incredible choice.

How Long to Stay

Most people stay 2-3 nights in the Amazon, which is enough time to soak up the jungle experience without going into full survival mode. We did 2 nights, and it felt just right – plenty of adventure, wildlife sightings, and sweaty hikes without overstaying in the heat and humidity. 

Keep in mind, there’s no AC, so if you’re someone who struggles with the heat, you might not want to push it much longer. I was content with our 2 night stay, and was so ready to wash off all the sweat once we got back to Lima!

Here’s a general overview of our 2 night, 3 day stay in the Amazon:

  • Day 1: nonstop flight from Cusco to Puerto Maldonado in the AM, transfer to the lodge’s office where we packed our duffel bags, bumpy drive to catch our boat (with lunch en route), boat ride down the Rio Madre De Dios spotting capybaras, macaws, and caimans, arrived at the lodge, introduction and dinner, night walk through the pitch-black jungle
  • Day 2: breakfast, hike through the jungle and boat ride, lunch, afternoon monkey walk through the forest, lodge relaxation time, dinner, late night boat ride to spot white caimans and star gazing
  • Day 3: breakfast, last look at the rainforest, ride back to the lodge office to pick up our suitcases, direct flight to Lima

It was a busy (and exhausting) few days, but you’ll really wanna pack it all in so you get the most possible chances to spot wildlife.

What to Expect at Tambopata Ecolodge 

The Food

I’ll be honest – I wasn’t expecting much when it came to jungle cuisine, but Tambopata Ecolodge totally delivered. Every meal was fresh, flavorful, and way better than I expected for being so deep in the rainforest. There was a great variety of dishes, and they made sure to rotate meals so you weren’t eating the same thing every day. Each meal was served buffet style, so you could fill up on as much as you wanted. 

Expect plenty of rice, root vegetables, and carbs – because, let’s be real, all that jungle trekking works up an appetite. 

Some standout dishes? Fried plantains, yucca, black beans, and tender chicken wrapped in banana leaves. We also had pork with a rich curry sauce, creamy avocado, fresh tropical fruit, and even dessert every night (the passionfruit flan and pie de manzana were amazing!). Breakfasts were simple but hearty, with fried eggs, fresh fruit juices, and more carbs to fuel the day ahead.

Water is technically potable, but it had a slightly brownish tint, so I personally didn’t risk it. Luckily, you can buy bottled water, soft drinks, and cocktails at the bar. Speaking of which, do yourself a favor and order a passionfruit mojito – refreshing, fruity, and the perfect way to end a long day of jungle exploring.

Health in the Amazon

I was most anxious about my health in the Amazon, considering there’s all kinds of scary mosquito-borne diseases out there and no major hospitals nearby. According to the CDC, a yellow fever vaccine is recommended, so I highly recommend you get that before visiting. It was a bit difficult to get back home in California, so I recommend looking into the vaccine a few months before your trip. Of course talk to your doctor!

While malaria hasn’t been reported in the area for over 35 years, I still took the full dose of my malaria pills as directed by my doctor – better safe than sorry. 

Also, the humidity and heat make it super easy to get dehydrated, so drinking tons of water is a must. The lodge provides potable water, but I also brought electrolyte packets to help stay hydrated (and because plain water gets boring after a while).

Bugs in the Amazon

Yes, there are bugs – duh, it’s the Amazon Rainforest – but honestly, not as many as I expected. And nothing too scary.

Inside the bungalows, we barely saw any, which was a relief. Just remember to keep the door shut unless you want some unexpected visitors. Around the lodge and out exploring, we saw giant moths, butterflies (that landed on our heads!), lots of spiders (some large, some small), and plenty of massive cicadas making their presence known. Bug spray was a lifesaver, especially in the evenings. 

And just like in Lake Atitlan in Guatemala, always look inside your shoes before putting them on – you never know what might be hiding inside. Still gives me the creeps just thinking about it. 

Sleeping 

Note that this experience is not for the faint of heart – the jungle is hot, buggy, and wild. If you’re looking for luxury, this ain’t it. Overall, we were pretty comfortable, but the intense humidity really got to us pretty quickly.

Each bed has a mosquito net, which made me feel like I was in some sort of jungle fairytale – minus the insane humidity. It gets crazy humid at night, and there’s no AC, so you just have to deal with it. Luckily, I fell asleep fast and didn’t wake up until the howler monkeys started their ungodly morning calls. 

Note that the bungalows are semi-shared, meaning you’ll have another group on the other side of a thin wall – we got lucky and had a friend over there, but you can hear everything, literally word for word. Be respectful unless you wanna annoy your neighbors, haha. There are private bathrooms though, with hot showers and flushable toilets! Although I actually preferred warm/cold showers because it was too damn hot and the cool water felt super refreshing (kinda like when I visited Croatia in August, whoops). 

WiFi & Electricity

There’s absolutely no cell service out here – it’s a true digital detox! WiFi is only available during meal times (early morning, 11 AM – 2 PM, and 5 – 10 PM), so don’t expect to be scrolling Instagram all day. Electricity is also limited to certain hours, mainly surrounding meal times, so that’s when you’ll want to charge your phone and camera batteries. 

Some rooms have working lights during those hours, but others don’t – hence the candles in each room. The lodge provides flashlights, but my friend also brought their own headlamp, which was a game-changer at night.

Activities to Immerse Yourself in the Amazon

One of the best things about staying at Tambopata Ecolodge is how much there is to do – no WiFi, no distractions, just pure jungle adventure. Whether you’re into hiking, wildlife spotting, or just taking in the sheer vastness of the Amazon, there’s something for everyone.

Just note that most days start at sunrise (or earlier!) because that’s when the animals are most active. We typically went on an early AM excursion, got back to the lodge around lunch time, ate and relaxed for a bit, then went out on an afternoon excursion before dinner. Night activities were offered as well!

Of course, nature doesn’t work on a schedule, so every experience is different. Come in with zero expectations and you’ll be amazed by the surprises the jungle has in store.

River Boat Tour

Gliding down the river felt like something out of a documentary. We saw caimans, capybaras (and tiny capybara babies!!!) chilling on the banks, bush turkeys, side-neck turtles sunbathing, red and green macaws, flying parakeets, herons, and even a horned screamer (which has to be one of the weirdest-sounding birds ever). Wish we had gotten lucky with a sloth sighting, but oh well!

Jungle Night Walk

Exploring the Amazon after dark is a whole different experience. With flashlights in hand, we followed our guide into the pitch-black jungle where we spotted massive spiders (including tarantulas and the infamous “chicken spider”), stick bugs camouflaged against branches, Amazon bamboo rats darting through the undergrowth, and endless trails of bullet ants and army ants. It’s kinda wild because you initially don’t see anything at all, and you need to look super closely.

And ohhh the sounds. Cicadas screaming, crickets chirping, and something rustling in the trees that I definitely didn’t want to meet. I have to admit, this was a little out of my comfort zone. It was pitch black – so dark I couldn’t even see my own hands in front of my face. Definitely not a place to wander off solo. And remember not to touch ANYTHING or stray from the group – some of the plants here can be just as dangerous as the wildlife! 

Stargazing

Since there’s practically zero light pollution, the night sky is insanely clear. Millions of stars, and even the Milky Way stretching across the sky – one of the most magical things I’ve ever seen.

Night Caiman Spotting

Drifting down the river in the dark (it was pitch black with zero light at all), our guide’s flashlight scanned the banks until – bam – a pair of glowing red eyes stared back at us. We spotted several white caimans, lurking in the shallows, completely still. Slightly eerie, but super cool. 

I will say this was a tad underwhelming until we saw the caimans; it definitely took a while to find and actually see any (it’s dark!). Since I was staring at the night sky and taking photos of the Milky Way… I honestly didn’t mind the wait too much (to say I was mesmerized by the night sky was a MASSIVE understatement). Floating on the river in total darkness, with the sky bursting with stars, was honestly just as magical as spotting the caimans themselves.

Hiking & Nature Walks

Whether you’re up for a short 2km stroll or a longer 12km trek, the hikes here are packed with Amazonian wonders. We saw giant ironwood trees, the towering ceiba tree, Brazil nut trees, strangler figs, dry wood termites, and leaf-cutting ants carrying leaves back to their underground nests. Oh, and a plant called “dead monkey fingers” – yes, that’s a real thing.

We even saw a tarantula emerging from its hole in the ground – our naturalist expertly lured it out, and we caught the entire interaction on camera… with the phone just inches away! Watching its hairy legs cautiously creep into the open was equal parts thrilling and nerve-wracking. So wild – it was such a surreal and adrenaline-pumping experience!

Prepare to get all hot and sticky – bring a lot of water and don’t feel like you need to do a long trek in order to see a lot. We only hiked a few miles and still saw lots!

Monkey Walk

We set out in the rainforest hoping to see some primates, and sure enough, we spotted a troop of red howler monkeys hanging out in the canopy. It took us a long while, and we almost didn’t see any at all. But at the last moment, we spotted quite a few and had an exciting time watching them jump around. You’ll want a super long zoom in order to capture them; the ones we saw were high in the treetops. Thankfully my friend managed to get a few shots, although they’re not the clearest, haha.

If you’re lucky, you might also see capuchins, dusky titi monkeys, spider monkeys, or squirrel monkeys swinging through the trees.

Swimming in the Nearby Creek

If you need to cool off from the jungle heat, there’s a refreshing little creek near the lodge where you can take a dip. It’s not exactly a luxury infinity pool, but after a humid day in the rainforest, it’s absolute heaven. 

Psst – I had heard there were leeches in the water, but a few of my group members went in and only said good things, and thankfully saw no leeches, but it may depend on the time of year. I’d ask the staff at the lodge their opinion before going in.

Other Activities in the Amazon near Puerto Maldonado

Note that activities vary by lodge, so I didn’t get the chance to do these myself – but they’re definitely on offer at many places in the Amazon.

Some of the more adventurous activities available at certain lodges include:

  • Canopy Walkway & Jungle Hike: Some lodges have towering canopy walkways, giving you a bird’s-eye view of the jungle. From up here, you might spot toucans, sloths, or even a curious monkey peering down at you.
  • Monkey Island: A few lodges visit islands where rescued monkeys roam freely. These little guys are known for their playful antics – and their sneaky attempts to snatch snacks!
  • Piranha Fishing: If you’re feeling bold, some lodges offer piranha fishing trips. From what I’ve heard, they bite fast, and in some places, they’ll even cook up your catch for you!

Would I have tried these if I had the chance? Maybe. (Okay, probably, haha).

Final Thoughts on the Peruvian Amazon

Would I do it again? No question. The Amazon is a place like no other—breathtaking, humbling, and yes, occasionally itchy. Next time, I’ll come armed with industrial-strength bug spray, a headlamp, and maybe a bit more mental preparation for those tarantulas.

Are you planning a trip to the Amazon anytime soon?!



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One Day in Matera Itinerary: Italy’s Breathtaking Sassi Escape https://apassionandapassport.com/things-to-do-in-matera-itinerary/ https://apassionandapassport.com/things-to-do-in-matera-itinerary/#respond Mon, 18 Nov 2024 06:42:25 +0000 https://apassionandapassport.com/?p=31800 Headed to Southern Italy and planning to spend just one day in Matera? Follow this one day Matera itinerary to explore the stunning Sassi cave dwellings, indulge in local cuisine, and take in breathtaking views — all with tons of history! All my favorite things to do in Matera, coming right up! The moment weContinue Reading

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Headed to Southern Italy and planning to spend just one day in Matera? Follow this one day Matera itinerary to explore the stunning Sassi cave dwellings, indulge in local cuisine, and take in breathtaking views — all with tons of history! All my favorite things to do in Matera, coming right up!

The moment we arrived at our hotel in Matera (after lugging our bags a few too many blocks… more on that later), WHOA just WHOA. We truly felt like we entered another world. I could not take my eyes off of that view (which, spoiler alert, ended up being one of my favorite things to do in Matera, haha). Yes, stare at the views!

So what’s so special about Matera anyways? Well, it’s one of Italy’s most unique destinations, and actually the oldest city in the entire country, dating back over 9,000 years. Yes, you read that right – Matera has been continuously inhabited since 7,000 years before Christ (let that sink in for a bit)! 

Plus, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage site, the 2019 European Capital of Culture, AND the third-oldest city in the world (after Aleppo and Jericho), so yeah, it’s got a lot going for it.

Matera’s ancient, incredibly unique, and steeped in history. Plus it’s absolutely GORGEOUS – those views are unlike anything I’ve ever seen. The entire city feels like a time capsule, with narrow winding streets, stone buildings, and labyrinth-like staircases at every turn. And of course, Matera’s most famous for its ancient cave dwellings known as “Sassi” — a true highlight on any one day Matera itinerary. 

To be completely honest, I hadn’t even heard of this extraordinary ancient cave city until a few years ago when I first started seeing it on social media. And when I realized just how close Matera is to the Puglia region, I promptly added it onto our Puglia road trip (which is now one of my new favorite regions in Europe). If you’re already planning to visit Puglia, I highly recommend you do the same if you have the time! 

And yes, you really can see so much with just one day in Matera – I promise! The city’s the perfect compact size to explore for those with a short amount of time. Just note that there’s tons and tons of stone stairs (I mean, Sassi literally means rock in Italian, haha), so pace yourself and get ready for a bit of a workout. We were tired after just a few hours in the scorching summer sun!

Honestly, the mix of ancient history, stunning views, and a lively cultural scene makes Matera such a cool place to visit if you want to see a different side of Italy. With its rich cultural heritage, captivating rock churches, and mouthwatering local cuisine, Matera is a place you won’t forget anytime soon. We’re still talking about it months later!

One Day in Matera Logistics 

Before we get into all the fun things to do in Matera and my recommended one day Matera itinerary, there’s a lot of logistics to talk about first!

Where is Matera?

First of all, where is Matera exactly?! Psst – before doing research for my Italy trip, I honestly had no idea, so don’t feel bad if you haven’t got a clue either, lol.

Now I know that Matera’s nestled in the Basilicata region of southern Italy, right in a ravine carved by the Gravina River. And that river has shaped some seriously stunning cliffs and gorges over thousands of years – once you see it, you’ll see just how remarkable it really is. It’s actually kinda remote nestled deep in the mountainsides, but dontcha worry – it’s hardly a hidden gem anymore, haha.

Even though Matera is technically in Basilicata, it’s super close to Puglia, so plenty of people combine it with a road trip through Puglia – us included! You can soak in Matera’s ancient vibes and then hop over to Puglia for some amazing local food and culture, or vice versa. 

Italy is a long and narrow country, so don’t expect to be able to hop on over to Matera regardless of where you are in the country! For reference, Matera is 400+ km from Rome, 650+ km from Florence, and 850 km from Venice. Yup — definitely not possible to visit Matera for a day from one of these cities! Maybeeee just maybe from Naples (~250 km away), but only if you’re prepared for a super long day and there’s zero traffic. 

Here are some specific distances to nearby cities: 

  • Altamura and Gravina in Puglia: each ~20-30 kilometers (12-18 miles) away
  • Castelmezzano and Pietrapertosa: ~40 kilometers (25 miles) northwest
  • Bari: ~65 kilometers (40 miles) to the northeast
  • Alberobello: ~70 kilometers (43 miles) to the southeast
  • Naples: ~250 kilometers (155 miles) to the west

Geographically, Matera features stunning limestone cliffs and a rugged landscape that really define the town. It’s famous for its Sassi – those unique stone houses carved directly into the rock. The views of the surrounding valleys and ravines are breathtaking, and we totally felt like we stepped into a living history book. I couldn’t get enough of the scenery here – it was just so striking and one-of-a-kind!

When to Plan Your Matera Itinerary

Like much of Italy, Matera has four distinct seasons. Each season brings its own appeal, so whether you’re into sunny days or the cozy atmosphere of cooler months, there’s a perfect time for you to explore this amazing city.

Spring (March to May): This is one of the best times to visit Matera. The weather is mild, with temperatures ranging from the low 50s to mid-70s°F (10-25°C), the flowers are blooming, and the crowds are still manageable. The Matera Film Festival takes place in May, so it’s a super fun time to visit if you’re interested in celebrating the cinema!

Summer (June to August): It’s peak tourist season in Matera, meaning it’s the most crowded time of year. And we felt it, haha. Even though Puglia was relatively less crowded overall in early June (compared to other spots we’ve previously visited in Europe), Matera was just not, haha. It was by far the most crowded place on our Puglia road trip. 

However, if you wake up early you may very well have the sassi to yourself. It seems as if the city kinda wakes up late, but that may just be since all the day trippers haven’t arrived just yet.

Plus, summers in Matera can get brutally hot (like miserably scorching), with temperatures often exceeding 85°F (30°C). And it’s really hard to escape the heat since the caves reflect the sun pretty harshly. After just a few minutes we were longing for some shade and craving a cold drink, haha. I was dripping about 85% of the time — not a pretty look, oh well!

I definitely recommend wandering around at night once the temp cools off and the daytrippers go home.

Psst – Festa della Madonna della Bruna which honors the patron saint of Matera is on July 2, so expect TONS of crowds then. I’d specifically avoid that week if you can. 

Fall (September to November): Another fantastic time to visit, fall brings cooler temperatures and fewer tourists (although September is still kinda hot and crowded). Daytime highs are typically in the 70s°F (20-25°C), making it comfortable for exploring. Plus, there’s some autumn colors and harvest festivals this time of year.

Winter (December to February): Winters are mild but can be chilly, with temperatures averaging in the 40s°F (4-9°C). Snow is rare but possible, which can make the city look even more magical than it already is! 

Besides Christmas week, this is the quietest time for tourism, so there’ll be way less crowds and you can probably snag a good deal on special cave hotels! Just be sure to bundle up when you’re out and about exploring – just because this is Italy doesn’t mean it doesn’t get chilly!

How to Get to Matera

By Plane

If you’re not already in Italy, you’ll need to get there of course! Thankfully, there’s an airport not too far away – the closest “major” airport is Bari Karol Wojtyła Airport (BRI), about 65 km/40 miles from Matera. I put “major” in quotes since major is all relative – meaning you won’t be able to fly directly here from the US. Connecting in Rome, Naples, or Milan will be your best bet!

Once you get to BRI, you can rent a car (recommended if you’re off on a longer Puglia road trip like we were), take a shuttle bus to Bari city center and then catch a train or bus to Matera, or take an expensive taxi ride (for a more direct option).

Other nearby airports include Brindisi Airport – BDS (145 km away) and Naples – NAP (250 km away), but Bari is by far the closest. Note that in order to get to Matera from BDS or NAP by public transit you’ll most likely need to transfer in Bari anyways.

By Train

Getting to Matera by train is possible, but always involves a combo of train and bus since Matera doesn’t have its own train station (I was super surprised by this!).

Regardless of where you’re coming from (Bari, Naples, Rome, etc), you’ll need to transfer at Ferrandina (the nearest train station to Matera, about 20 km away). And once you get to Ferrandina, it’s pretty straight forward – there’s regional buses (Ferrovie Appulo Lucane FAL) that’ll take you straight to Matera in about 30 minutes. 

By Bus

If you don’t wanna deal with transferring at Ferrandina, you can take a direct bus to Matera instead! There’s a few different companies who have routes from several cities in Italy (including Bari, Naples, and Potenza) –  check out FlixBus, MarinoBus, and Ferrovie Appulo Lucane (FAL).

To give you a general idea, from Bari, expect the bus to take ~1.5 hours or so, from Naples about 4 hours, and from Rome about 6.5 hours.

And if you’d rather make it super, super easy and only have time for one day in Matera, definitely consider an organized tour. This day trip to Matera leaves from both Polignano a Mare and Bari, and means you don’t have to worry about transportation (or parking!) at all!

By Car

Nearby? Of course you can drive to Matera! And you’ll get to go through the beautiful landscapes of Basilicata (and Puglia, depending where you’re coming from) –  expect to see rolling hills, lovely vineyards, and quaint olive groves. The region is famous for its stunning scenery afterall! 

Major roads, such as the A14 and SS96, are generally well-maintained. However, be prepared for some smaller, winding roads as you approach Matera, particularly if you take scenic routes or detours.

Psst – if you’re driving to Matera, I highly recommend stopping in both Gravina in Puglia (to see the iconic bridge) and Altamura (for their famous bread) either before or after your few days in Matera. We made brief stops in both of these and loved them!

Note that the center of Matera is a Restricted Traffic Zone (ZTL), meaning driving and parking in this area is restricted. And once you start wandering around, you’ll see exactly why — cars just don’t work here, haha.

Parking in Matera

Parking in Matera is kinda a nightmare. You’ll need to stick to the newer part of the city and make sure to avoid the ZTL. There’s lots of (paid) street-parking and several parking lots (“Parcheggio”), but we found it quite difficult to find a spot. We maneuvered into the first spot we saw (on the outskirts of the Sassi), paid for street parking for the entire duration of our time in Matera, and then didn’t move the car until we were ready to leave the city for good. 

It was beyond busy and we were too worried we wouldn’t find another spot. Plus, once you get to Matera you don’t really need a car to get around anyways.

I recommend pinning a few parking lots in advance so if you can’t find street parking, you have a few stress-free options. There’s Car Park Via Lanera (recommended, although check the timetables of “Linea Circolare Lanera”), Car Park Piazza Cesare Firrao, Car Park Piazza Kennedy Via Cappelluti, Carpark Via Lucana, and Carpark Parcheggio di Piazza Bianco. Lots of options, but still very busy.

A few tips about driving in Italy in general:

You’ll need an international driver’s permit: In order to rent a car in Italy as an international tourist, you need to present an International Driver’s Permit. We typically get ours from AAA, and it’s a super easy process (you will need passport photos as well so keep that in mind). Once granted and “activated”, it’s valid for a year. 

Rent a small car: There’s no need for a huge car here in Matera. I recommend renting the smallest car possible to make parking easier. We drove around in a small Fiat Panda, and were able to park in small spots and navigate the narrow streets with ease. Psst – Make sure you know how to properly drive stick if you rent a manual (which is common in Italy and all of Europe).

Beware of local drivers: Italians can be assertive drivers (which we definitely experienced firsthand). Stay alert and be prepared for sudden stops or lane changes. Locals don’t always follow the rules; they don’t stop at stop signs, don’t follow speed limits, and the amount of times we were tailgated was beyond infuriating.

I guess they’re getting annoyed with the increase of tourists… which I totally get. They don’t look, signal, or stop, they just GO. So be extra, extra vigilant and careful. And always let the locals pass you.

How to Get Around Matera

On Foot: Walking is really the best way to get around Matera, especially in the historic center (Sassi). Note that the narrow, cobbled streets are steep and winding, so be sure to wear your comfiest non-slip shoes and bring along plenty of water! I swear we walked at least 20k steps a day, and our legs were so sore the next morning (because of all the steep streets and unfathomable amount of stairs). 

I’m not sure if it’s just us, but we found the Sassi so confusing to walk around, haha. The Sassi is literally a series of winding cobblestone sideways and alleys up and down caves, so kinda to be expected.

At some points in the day we had enough, especially since it was super hot and hilly (with no sea to jump into!). That’s when we decided it was time for a drink and snack break, haha. It was kinda frustrating being there in peak summer with zero shade and nowhere to cool off, but we persevered and kept exploring, fueled by gelato and the occasional break in the shade of a cave.

Accessibility in Matera: The historic area of Matera can be challenging for those with mobility issues due to the steep and uneven paths. And SO. MANY. STAIRS. This area of Matera is definitely not stroller friendly (use a baby carrier instead), but the newer area is much easier to navigate for those using a wheelchair or mobility scooter, or pushing a stroller.

Sightseeing Bus Tour: Don’t worry if you aren’t comfortable with all the steps — there’s an open-top sightseeing bus tour! To be completely honest, I kinda wish we took a bus tour. After walking around for hours (and getting lost a few too many times), we were beyond frustrated when we couldn’t find something on my map (the Sassi is tricky!). A bus tour surely would have saved our feet and thighs and butts. Plus, I wouldn’t be dripping with sweat for the duration of the day, haha.

Ape tour: Another fun way to explore the Sassi is by hopping on an Ape Calessino (tuk-tuk) tour! In Italian, they’re called ape cars (ah-peh), which means bee – how cute! While they can’t navigate every street (some are too narrow and reserved for pedestrians), most tours (like this one!) cover all the main attractions, and even give you time for photo breaks. It’s a great way to get to know the city, get off your feet, and learn a thing or two from a local.

Day trip to Matera vs Overnight

Should you take a day trip to Matera or stay overnight? That really depends how much time you have.

But if you can swing it, I HIGHLY recommend spending at least one night in Matera. Why? So you can experience sleeping in a cave! We loved our boutique cave hotel – probably one of the most unique accommodation experiences we’ve had to date (besides living the luxury life in an overwater bungalow in Bora Bora, a luxury safari lodge in Tanzania, and a Bedouin camp in Israel).

Plus, the real magic happens after hours, when the evenings are quiet, the streets are less crowded, and the caves are beautifully illuminated. Staying overnight allows you to truly soak in Matera’s unique charm. And sunset over the caves?! Absolutely nothing like it – I couldn’t peel my eyes away (just ask my husband, haha).

After spending a week in Puglia, we drove over to Matera and spent two nights here – and it was the perfect amount of time. We arrived just before sunset our first evening, and then had the entire next day and night to explore, before leaving for Bari the following morning. Our full day was a good mix of sightseeing and exploring the Sassi with lots of snack and drink breaks.

But don’t worry – day trips are very much possible if you’re already in the nearby region of Puglia! As you can see below, most popular towns/cities in Puglia are only about an hour or so away from Matera, meaning if you head there in the early AM, you really have all day to explore!

I do think an organized day trip from Polignano a Mare or Bari is the way to go if you’re staying in one of these areas. Why complicate things?! You’re on vacation!

  • From Bari: ~65 km (40 miles). ~1.5 hours by car or 2 hours by bus; ~1.5 hours by train to Ferrandina, then a short bus ride to Matera.
  • From Polignano a Mare: ~50 km (31 miles). ~1 hour by car or 1.5 hours by bus; no direct train service.
  • From Alberobello: ~35 km (22 miles). ~45 minutes by car or 1 hour by bus; no direct train service.
  • From Gallipoli: ~130 km (81 miles). ~2.5 hours by car; no direct train service; consider a bus.
  • From Otranto: ~150 km (93 miles). ~2.5 to 3 hours by car; no direct train service.
  • From Lecce: ~160 km (99 miles). ~2.5 to 3 hours by car or bus; ~2.5 hours by train to Ferrandina, then a short bus ride to Matera.

Where to Stay in Matera

As mentioned before, if you have the time, I highly recommend spending at least one night in Matera, preferably two! 

And definitely sleep in a boutique cave hotel during your time in Matera. I mean, what a unique experience (kinda like spending a night in a trulli in Alberobello)! The cave hotels are often set right within the ancient Sassi, the iconic cave dwellings carved into the rock. Think exposed stone walls, private terraces, hot tubs, and/or spa facilities!

There’s plenty of luxury options (what we opted for), with a blend of ancient charm and modern comfort. Just remember – these caves had been inhabited for thousands of years before being converted into hotels/accommodation, whoa! 

Aquatio Cave Luxury Hotel: This is where we stayed, and WHOA! After doing tons of research, we ultimately chose to spend 2 nights at Aquatio Cave Luxury Hotel, and what a fantastic choice that was. The hotel was newly opened in 2018, and located right in the center of the Sassi on a ridge by the Sasso Caveoso district. I’m honestly not sure if we got upgraded (the room we got was way bigger than what we thought we booked), but hey, no complaints there! Just look at it – we literally showered (and went to the bathroom) in a cave!

We feasted on huge breakfast buffets each and every morning, the service was top-notch, and the views straight from the hotel were some of the best we found in all of Matera. Plus, Aquatio boasts an insane spa (and wellness center) in a beautifully lit cave that we definitely took advantage of, haha. Book early as there’s only 35 rooms and suites (and they do sell out in summer)!

If Aquatio Cave Luxury Hotel is sold out or not within budget, here’s some other popular cave hotels in Matera:

I do want you to consider that you’ll likely be dragging your luggage up and down stairs to your hotel in the Sassi (although some hotels offer valet service). So choose a hotel wisely – we ended up walking 15 minutes or so to our hotel (we had a hard time finding a parking spot nearby), but thankfully most of the walk was through the newer part of Matera which is mostly flat.

What to Eat in Matera

Cuisine in Matera is simple and nourishing, characterized by the most easily available foods such as bread and pasta. Since this is a region rich in agricultural produce (just look at those tomatoes growing right in town!), it reflects the local flavors and traditions.

We didn’t make any restaurant reservations while planning our Matera itinerary, and I instantly regretted that mistake as soon as we arrived. As mentioned earlier, Matera was insanely crowded during our visit. Everything we ate was absolutely delicious though – I don’t think you can have a bad meal.

Here’s a few dishes and specific foods to try: 

  • Pane di Matera: traditional bread made from special wheat that has a distinct flavor
  • Cialledda: local bread salad with fresh veggies, herbs, and sometimes beans (great for a refreshing lunch)
  • Orecchiette: an ear-shaped pasta that’s a regional favorite, often served with a simple sauce made from turnip tops (cime di rapa) or a tasty tomato sauce
  • Peperoni Cruschi: crispy, dried peppers that are a great snack or add a flavorful kick to dishes
  • Burrata: creamy cheese great with fresh with local tomatoes and a drizzle of olive oil (although more famous in Puglia)
  • Agnello al Forno: slow-roasted lamb seasoned with local herbs and spices (super hearty and satisfying)
  • Pignata: a traditional super flavorful stew made with meat and vegetables, slow-cooked in a clay pot
  • Fave e Cicoria: a simple classic dish featuring pureed fava beans served with sautéed chicory
  • Focaccia: soft and flavorful flatbread often topped with herbs, olives, or tomatoes

Brief History of Matera

This wouldn’t be a complete Matera itinerary without touching upon its rich and complex history! I mean, human settlement in the area traces back to the Paleolithic era! Over the centuries, Matera has seen a whirlwind of cultural influences, especially from the Romans and Byzantines, which have really shaped its one-of-a-kind character.

The Sassi, those incredible ancient cave dwellings, popped up as a clever solution for housing in the rocky landscape. Carved directly into the stone, these structures create a fascinating labyrinth of homes, churches, and public spaces that tell the amazing story of life in Matera throughout the ages.

In the 20th century, the Sassi gained a reputation for their tough living conditions, especially after World War II, which led to many residents having to relocate due to overcrowding and sanitation issues, causing feelings of abandonment and a major drop in the area’s population. It’s wild to think that people lived in these caves without electricity or running water as recently as the 1950s!. 

But here’s the good news: restoration efforts kicked off in the 1980s, and by 1993, the Sassi were designated a UNESCO World Heritage site! This was a real turning point for their preservation and revitalization.

Matera really hit the spotlight when it was named a European Capital of Culture in 2019, drawing in international attention and investment. This initiative sparked a vibrant arts scene, with trendy cafes and boutiques popping up right alongside traditional crafts. Its stunning landscapes and unique architecture have even turned it into a favorite spot for filmmakers – you might recognize it from hits like “The Passion of the Christ” and “No Time to Die”!

Today, Matera is a captivating mix of ancient history and modern culture. It’s some place I really think everyone should visit, even if it’s just for a day!

Other FAQs and Info About Matera

  • What’s so special about Matera? I mean, just look at the photos! Matera is famous for its ancient cave dwellings, the Sassi, which are among the oldest continuously inhabited settlements in the world and are recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Plus, the city has stunning landscapes, a rich history, and vibrant culture. It’s seriously like nowhere else I’ve been before (although I have a feeling Cappadocia in Turkey is somewhat similar).
  • Is Matera worth visiting? 1000% yes! Just prepare for lots and lots of stairs (comfy shoes help!), and take breaks when you need to get outta the hot summer sun. It’s super, super unique, so way different from other spots in Italy and the Mediterranean you’ve been. 
  • Is Matera expensive? Depending where you stay, it certainly can be. Our luxury cave hotel was the most expensive place we stayed on our entire Puglia road trip, but there’s certainly cheaper accommodation. We found meals and activities to be pretty good value, and we honestly kinda just wandered around during the day (meaning we didn’t spend much besides food and hotel).
  • Currency in Matera: Like the rest of Italy, Matera uses the Euro (€) as its official currency. ATMs are widely available, and credit and debit cards are accepted in most shops and restaurants, though it’s always a good idea to have some cash on hand for smaller establishments or markets.
  • Language in Matera: The official language spoken in Matera is Italian. However, you might also hear local dialects, particularly “Lucano,” which reflects the region’s unique cultural heritage. English is spoken in many tourist areas, but locals really appreciate it when you at least attempt basic Italian phrases.

Historic Sassi vs. Matera’s Modern City

Matera is divided into two distinct areas: the Sassi (the old part) and the modern city. And you’ll be able to tell the difference straight away, as they look entirely different, haha. There’s no way not to notice the contrast. Here’s a quick breakdown of them both:

Old Matera (Sassi)

The Sassi di Matera is an absolute must-see, and what makes Matera oh so unique! This UNESCO World Heritage Site is famous for its ancient cave dwellings and rock churches, some dating back thousands of years. Picture narrow alleys and winding streets lined with stunning limestone buildings carved right into the rock – it’s like stepping back in time.

But it’s not just about the sights; you get a real taste of local life here. Many cave houses are still occupied, and you’ll find charming artisan shops, cozy restaurants, and historical sites around every corner. It’s a cultural experience that truly immerses you in the heart of Matera!

New Matera (Modern City)

Something I didn’t realize before spending one day in Matera? That there’s a modern side of Matera as well! This newer side of Matera is called the Piano, and it’s just like any chic little city you’d find elsewhere in Italy, complete with sleek architecture, trendy shops, and a range of hotels and restaurants.

It’s got a much more common city layout, and way less steps and steep hills to climb. Although there’s no caves… so make sure you in fact don’t spend all your time here in modern Matera, haha. This area is definitely alive with energy though – there was actually a half marathon taking place throughout the streets when we visited (something we definitely didn’t expect!).

Most people who live in Matera live here in the Piano, where the Italian government relocated the residents of the Sassi to in the early 1950s.

So let’s get started with our day trip to Matera — full of all the iconic, historic spots in the city and breathtaking views at every turn. The perfect one day in Matera itinerary, coming right up!

One Day in Matera Itinerary

Tips to Maximize Your Matera Itinerary 

  • Start early! If you’re spending the night in the city before your one day in Matera, wake up and get out exploring at a reasonable hour! If you’re driving over as part of a much-longer Puglia road trip, set your alarm so you get to Matera before 10am (preferably earlier).
  • Craft your one day in Matera itinerary ahead of time. With such a short amount of time, don’t get to Matera without a plan. I of course recommend prioritizing visits to the iconic attractions (the Sassi di Matera, the Cave Churches, Piazza del Duomo, etc). However, the entire city is like a maze with unique architecture at every turn, so if you’re not fussed about seeing certain spots, you can honestly just wander around and take it all in.
  • Pay for parking if need be. Driving? If you’ve only got 24 hours in Matera (or less if you’re doing a day trip), you don’t wanna spend half your day looking for parking. Yes, paying for parking sucks (I get it — I’d rather save that cash for vino and gelato), but sometimes you just gotta suck it up. Time is money, people! Look for garages in advance and plan to park your car there the whole day.
  • Plan out your food stops in advance. It’s hard to have a bad meal in Matera (this is Italy afterall!), but if you’re an indecisive person like me, the choices may overwhelm you. Do your research ahead of time so you don’t waste time deciding where to eat. Plus, if you’re visiting in high season (June through August/September), make some dinner reservations if there’s a specific spot you wanna eat at!
  • Consider a guided tour. Really wanna make the most of your time and learn tons about Matera in just one day? Walking tours and ape tuk-tuk tours are fantastic for this purpose, as you can typically see more in less time and get tons of info from a local guide! 

And finally, here’s how I’d spend one day in Matera!

Morning in Matera: Explore the Sassi

Wake up (hopefully in your epic cave hotel), and you’ll immediately feel the magic of Matera. Our hotel had such a fantastic view I could’ve been content simply staring out a few feet from our accommodation, haha. But of course, we had a whole city to discover! After enjoying the gorgeous breakfast spread from our hotel, we set off to explore. 

The city is known for its cave dwellings, and they’ve got some wild stories to tell. I recommend taking the morning to simply wander through the streets of the Sassi. We felt like we were walking in an open air museum, and loved getting lost in the meandering alleyways (although to be honest, we actually got lost a few too many times, haha).

These unique structures, carved right into the limestone, date back thousands of years and are actually a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Sassi di Matera is made up of two districts – Sasso Barisano and Sasso Caveoso – where you can just wander the narrow alleys and stumble upon cool rock churches, quirky shops, and some great local food.

We kinda just wandered around looking for the pins on my map until we got hot and hungry, haha. But there’s a few things you shouldn’t miss while exploring the Sassi:

Take a scenic stroll along Via Madonna delle Virtù

Kick off your day in Matera with a leisurely walk down Via Madonna delle Virtù. We LOVED this charming street – with its elevated position you get a stunning perspective of the iconic Sassi cave dwellings and the lush Valle dei Diddi below. 

It kinda hugs the Sassi and is mostly flat, so it’s the perfect spot to take in the landscape before diving into the rest of your day in this UNESCO World Heritage site.

Admire the stunning rock churches 

When you’re in Matera, you absolutely have to check out its stunning rock churches – especially the Church of Santa Maria di Idris and the Church of San Pietro Caveoso. These incredible structures are not just architectural feats; they’re masterpieces carved right into the rock, complete with vibrant frescoes and intricate sculptures that tell a story of the city’s rich heritage.

I’ve never seen a church like this before so was totally blown away; I mean, just look at it!

The Church of Santa Maria di Idris, often referred to as “Madonna de Idris,” is one of the most scenic rock churches in the area (and my favorite!). It sits atop the rocky spur of Montirone (right in the middle of Sasso Caveoso), offering breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape. This unique Catholic church features a crypt that houses well-preserved frescoes, showcasing the artistic heritage of the region.

San Pietro Caveoso (Chiesa di San Pietro Caveoso) is the second of the most famous of the rock churches in Matera, dating back to the 13th century, and right next to The Church of Santa Maria! Carved directly into the soft limestone of the Sasso Caveoso, the church blends Romanesque and Gothic styles with a simple yet striking interior, including a barrel-vaulted ceiling and ancient frescoes. Plus tons of spectacular panoramic views over the maze of cave dwellings and the valleys below. 

And a quick tip: if you plan to explore these sacred spaces during your one day in Matera, make sure to dress appropriately! Covering your shoulders and knees is a must – it’s all about showing respect for the traditions of Italy. 

Learn about Matera at Casa Grotta

Time to learn about Matera and the cave dwellings! This historic home is a recreated traditional cave house that gives visitors a glimpse into the daily lives of the people who lived here for centuries. It’s a great experience to have in order to understand how the villagers lived thousands of years ago.

The Casa Grotta nei Sassi di Matera is set up as a small museum, showcasing the simple, rustic living conditions of Matera’s past residents. The cave is furnished with authentic period furniture, tools, artifacts, and even household items that were used by families who once lived in these rock homes. You’ll see how they lived with minimal comforts, relying on the natural surroundings for shelter and resources.

Check out Matera Cathedral (Cattedrale di Santa Maria della Bruna)

The Matera Cathedral is one of the most prominent landmarks in Matera, and something you shouldn’t miss out on. Perched on top of Civita Hill at the highest point in the city, it’s hard to miss, and the view over the Sassi district? Absolutely unreal. The church itself is a beautiful blend of Romanesque and Apulian Romanesque styles, with that stunning white stone facade and rose window that makes it stand out. A real showstopper.

Inside, it’s just as impressive – think vaulted ceilings, frescoes, and a crypt that’s got some serious historical vibes. Plus, the location means you get those epic panoramic views over the city and its cave dwellings. So, yeah, it’s definitely worth a visit if you’re in the area.

Learn history at Casa Noha

If you’re looking to dive into Matera’s history, Casa Noha is a great place to start. It’s not a typical museum with exhibits or old furniture, since the space was fully renovated, but it offers something pretty unique—a 25-minute film experience spread across three rooms. 

The documentary is an awesome way to get a deeper understanding of Matera’s past, and honestly, we kind of wish we’d started our whole trip here! The audio is provided in multiple languages, so it’s easy to follow, and the storytelling is well done.

That said, Casa Noha does get mixed reviews – some people find it a bit overpriced, but if you’re looking for a quick, engaging way to learn about the city, it’s definitely worth the time. I’d suggest watching the film first, then heading out to explore the city with all that context in mind — it’ll totally change how you see Matera!

Sip cocktails in a cave at Bar Zipa

Bar Zipa is the coolest little cave bar in Matera, and it ended up being a great recommendation from our hotel! The place has cushions scattered around, creating a super chill vibe where you can relax and enjoy a drink.

When we visited, it was pretty busy (and HOT!), and of course, all the shaded spots were already taken. We gave up on waiting for a spot outside and decided to head inside because, honestly, I couldn’t bear the thought of basking in the sun any longer, haha! 

Note that this spot is usually recommended for sunset, BUT – there’s no view of the Sassi here! Instead, we came for a drink midday when we needed a little pick me up, and went to a terrace bar overlooking the Sassi later on for sunset.

Take an Ape tour of Matera 

If you’re looking to learn about Matera’s history without doing more walking (because let’s be real, those cobblestone streets and steps can get tiring), an Ape tour is a fun and chill way to see the city! 

Apes are three-wheeled Italian vehicles, and there’s plenty of tours that take you to all of the must-see spots. We saw them all over Puglia as well. 

Late Afternoon Matera Itinerary: Modern Matera

Lunch at a Local Trattoria

After huffing and puffing up and down the stone steps of the Sassi, you’re probably ready for some lunch! We had a super casual meal of fresh pasta from Passeggiando 1 – The Way Of Pasta and it was delicious! You’d think after a week of road tripping around Puglia and eating pasta everyday we’d get sick of it, but nope! Our love of homemade pasta goes deep! 

If you’re looking for another option, head to Il Rusticone (literally a one minute walk from The Way of Pasta, haha). While pizza is their specialty, they also serve meat and cheese boards and puccia (kind of like a panini, but with pizza crust and stuffed with a variety of cured meats and cheeses).

Explore Matera’s New Town (The Piano)

When you’ve had your fill of ancient cave dwellings and stunning views of the Sassi, it’s time to head to Matera’s New Town, also known as The Piano. This part of the city is a world away from the rustic charm of the Sassi, offering a totally different vibe. Think modern shops, cozy cafes, and lively piazzas. 

The Piano is where most of Matera’s residents moved to in the 1950s, after the government relocated them from the Sassi to help with overcrowding and sanitation issues. It’s a blend of traditional Italian streets with a more contemporary feel — so it’s the perfect place to spend an afternoon shopping or just wandering around, soaking up the local atmosphere.

Of course there’s a few things not to miss over in this part of Matera:

  • Cool down underground at Palombaro Lungo: If you’re looking for a break from the sun (because, let’s face it, it can get toasty in Matera), check out Palombaro Lungo, an incredible ancient underground cistern. It’s carved right into the rock and was once used to store water for the city. The best part? It only takes about 10 minutes to walk through and only a few euros.
  • Snack Stop at Bar Caffè Tripoli: Need a quick pick-me-up? Bar Caffè Tripoli in the New Town is a great spot for coffee and pastries. With its classic Italian café vibe, it’s perfect for relaxing and enjoying the local atmosphere. Grab a seat outside, enjoy a cappuccino, and soak in the vibe of Matera’s more modern side.
  • Tre Archi Viewpoint: Head to Belvedere Luigi Guerricchio dei “Tre Archi” (aka the Three Arches viewpoint) for one of the best panoramic views of Matera. I loved admiring the city’s unique layout and getting a sense of the contrast between the modern town and the ancient cave dwellings here.
  • Cool Off with some Gelato: No visit to Matera is complete without gelato! After a snack, head to one of the local gelaterias for a scoop (or two) of creamy, delicious gelato. We’re obsessed with classic flavors like stracciatella and pistachio – mmm… the best! We went to both Gelateria Caffè Cremeria dell’Angelo (in the modern part of Matera) and I Vizi degli Angeli (near our hotel) and enjoyed both spots, haha.

Cave Spa

Before getting ready for sunset and dinner, might as well take advantage of the spa (if your hotel has one of course). Luckily for us, our hotel, Aquatio, had one of the most epic spas I’ve seen in my life –  an entire wellness center complete with a swimming pool carved into the rock. 

Belvedere Murgia Timone – OPTIONAL

If you have time (and don’t mind moving your car…), drive over to Belvedere Murgia Timone (about 15 minutes away) – another of the best viewpoints of Matera! Some people decide to hike here, but to be honest, I really don’t recommend that if it’s even a little hot out. 

After finally finding a parking spot the day before, the last thing we wanted to do was move our car and lose our spot, so we decided to skip this. I guess we could’ve gone the next day once we left Matera, but we had a few other stops on the way back to Bari we wanted to see (namely Gravina in Puglia and Altamura), so we decided to skip Belvedere Murgia Timone.

Things to do in Matera at Night

Enjoy an aperitivo with a view

After a relaxing spa session (or perhaps a hike up to Belvedere Murgia Timone), it’s time to grab a sunset spritz! And the best part about Matera is that since the entire town is built into the rocks, there’s plenty of great spots to enjoy your drink with a view.

  • Crialoss Panoramic Cave Cafe Bistrot: This charming little spot offers some of the best views of Matera, along with drinks and light bites like salads, sandwiches, and bruschettas. We actually ended up here midday, simply because it was on the opposite side of town and, well, I wasn’t about to climb all those steep steps again later on (lol!). Note that the cafe is open from 1-10pm, but you can only make a reservation until 6pm – after that, it’s first-come, first-served, so plan accordingly.
  • Terrazza Cavaliere: This is where we went for sunset, and lemme tell you – it was packed! We got lucky and snagged a table a bit before the rush, so if you want a good spot, I recommend arriving early to beat the crowd. But once you’re settled, the views are definitely worth it.
  • Area 8: If you’re looking for something a bit different (way more modern with a cool, colorful vibe), head to this cocktail bar! It admittedly doesn’t have a sweeping view of Matera like the others do, but hey, nothing wrong with a little variety!

Sunset at Belvedere di Piazza Giovanni Pascoli 

Matera has tons of great places to watch the sunset thanks to its dramatic landscape of cave dwellings and ancient architecture. But if you’re looking for the perfect spot? Belvedere di Piazza Giovanni Pascoli is a personal favorite – mainly because it was just a short walk from our hotel, and next to Terrazza Cavaliere, haha.

If you’ve had a few cocktails, it’s easy to lose track of time, so make sure you arrive a bit early to grab a good spot and enjoy the changing colors as the sun dips behind the Sassi! It gets busy, busy, busy, but understandably so since it’s just gorgeous!

Enjoy dinner in Matera

When it comes to dining in Matera, you’ve got plenty of delicious options to choose from. I mean, this is Italy we’re talking about! BUT if you wanna eat at one of the top restaurants in town, you’ll need to make a reservation. Most places are on the smaller side and tend to fill up quickly.

We didn’t plan ahead at all (whoops), so ended up at a random spot, Morgan Restaurant, which turned out to be a great find with homemade pizza and pasta!

If you’re looking for something fancy, you’ll be excited to hear that Matera’s home to a few Michelin-starred restaurants, including Dimora Ulmo, Vitantonio Lombardo Ristorante, Le Bubbole, Baccanti, and Ego Ristorante Matera. 

In the mood for something a little less formal but still high-quality? Check out Osteria Matera Mì, Ristorante Burro Salato, OHIMÈ Matera, Ristorante 900 Casa Taccardi, and Osteria al Casale. These spots offer refined, high-end meals with a relaxed vibe, perfect if you want great food without the stuffy atmosphere.

A few other dinner options if you wanna be more prepared than we were (aka make a reservation):

  • Regiacorte Restaurant and Lounge Terrace: This is one of the most popular upscale restaurants in all of Matera, since you get an amazing view of the Rock Church. It’s definitely on the pricier side, but there’s both tasting menus and a la carte options. Make a reservation and be sure to request a table with a terrace view (although the indoor seating is inside a cave, so no bad options here).
  • La Lopa: With lots of traditional dishes of Matera on the menu and literally tucked away inside a cave, what can be better?!
  • Vitantonio Lombardo Ristorante: One of the most creative menus in Matera, with a few tasting menus to choose from. Everything at this fine-dining restaurant is presented in a super creative way, and you get to eat inside a cave! Albeit it’s definitely on the pricier side.
  • Trattoria del Caveoso: Here you’ll find regional cheeses, pasta, & grilled meats in a stylish, rustic space carved right into the rock, plus a terrace! Expect warm and authentic flavors in a cozy, inviting atmosphere.

Take an Evening Stroll Through the Sassi

After dinner, take an evening stroll through the Sassi. The narrow, winding streets really come alive at night, illuminated by soft street lamps that make the ancient stonework look even more enchanting. We loved wandering through the alleys after dinner – everything just looks so different in soft lighting. 

And if you’re craving a bit of nightlife, hit up some of Matera’s trendy bars. Bar Vico Solitario has a cozy vibe with killer cocktails, while Caffè Montalbano often features live music or events that keep the energy alive. And you’ll probably even see some of the locals come out – it’s not all tourists here like most other Italian spots.

To wrap up your night, don’t miss the chance to take in the views from one of the lookouts over the Sassi. And yes, we went back to Belvedere di Piazza Giovanni Pascoli, haha – told you we went there a lot! The skyline at night, with the ancient cave dwellings illuminated, is a sight I’ll never forget. Grab a few photos or simply soak in the beauty – it’s a magical way to end your one day in Matera!

Hope this gives you lots of ideas on things to do in Matera! Are you planning to spend one day in Matera soon?!



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7 Days in Puglia: The Perfect 7 Day Puglia Road Trip Itinerary https://apassionandapassport.com/puglia-road-trip-itinerary/ https://apassionandapassport.com/puglia-road-trip-itinerary/#respond Mon, 04 Nov 2024 02:50:14 +0000 https://apassionandapassport.com/?p=31579 Headed to southern Italy and looking for the perfect Puglia itinerary? Keep reading for my complete 7 day Puglia road trip, which covers everything you need to know and then some! Imagine sunrise over Puglia’s breathtaking cliffs in Polignano a Mare. Wandering through the iconic trulli of Alberobello and driving through the cacti-filled countryside. SavoringContinue Reading

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Headed to southern Italy and looking for the perfect Puglia itinerary? Keep reading for my complete 7 day Puglia road trip, which covers everything you need to know and then some!

Imagine sunrise over Puglia’s breathtaking cliffs in Polignano a Mare. Wandering through the iconic trulli of Alberobello and driving through the cacti-filled countryside. Savoring more delicious orecchiette and fresh seafood than you ever thought possible. What about laying on sun-soaked beaches, exploring the endless olive groves, and having dinner at a local masseria. That’s what this Puglia road trip is all about! And it’s glorious.

The perfect Puglia itinerary blends vibrant cities, charming towns, and stunning beaches. Known as the heel of Italy’s boot, Puglia offers a gorgeous rugged coastline alongside colorful, historic architecture. And with a mild climate of ~300 sunny days a year and some of Italy’s best wines and fresh burrata at every meal, what could be better? It truly is the Southern Italian way of life.

There’s no denying that I’m head over heels for Italy. Over the years, I’ve been to Rome, Florence, Cinque Terre, Venice (and Burano!), Naples, the Amalfi Coast, Verona, Lake Como, and more. So I was thrilled when I finally got to head off on a Puglia road trip with my husband. And what a week it was – relaxing by the sparkling sea, exploring the whitewashed villages, and eating all the fresh seafood we could handle.

I had started hearing about this gorgeous region a few years ago, so I knew I wanted to get there before the masses of tourists started pouring in. Puglia is still largely untouched by international travelers, but it definitely won’t stay that way for long. We encountered mostly Italian and European tourists, although the region is definitely becoming more popular with Americans. It may not be a hidden gem anymore, but you can still stumble upon local favorites and soak up the authentic Puglian vibe.

Get ready for homemade orecchiette and mouth watering focaccia, beautiful baroque and medieval cities, and all the sunset Aperol spritz you can imagine – la dolce vita indeed (the sweet life)!

Puglia Itinerary At-A-Glance

There’s tons of ways to do a Puglia road trip, but after doing extensive research and taking our own trip, I’m sharing our exact week in Puglia (with extra time for Matera). And honestly, I wouldn’t change a thing – our Puglia itinerary was practically perfect! 

A fantastic blend of exploring the white-washed streets of Ostuni, relaxing in picturesque coastal towns like Monopoli and Gallipoli, and visiting the iconic trulli in Alberobello. Plus lots of time at the pristine beaches and grottoes (my favorite).

We did a clockwise Puglia road trip from Bari, starting with Polignano a Mare and Monopoli, heading inland to the towns of the Valle d’Itria, driving along the southern coastline from Otranto to Gallipoli, then finally making our way towards Matera (and then back to Bari).

Most Puglia road trips focus on the eastern coast of the peninsula, but I found a bunch of stops on the western coast that I really wanted to see, so I made sure to include those as well! 

  • Day 1: Polignano a Mare
  • Day 2: Monopoli
  • Day 3: Towns in Valle D’Itria 
  • Day 4: Ostuni and Otranto
  • Day 5: East Coast of Southern Puglia
  • Day 6: Scenic Stops on the Salento Coast
  • Day 7: Gallipoli
  • Day 8: Matera (Optional)
  • Day 9: Matera and Bari (Optional)

7 Days in Puglia Itinerary Logistics

Where is Puglia

First off, where is this Adriatic gem anyways? For starters, Puglia is located in the southeastern region of Italy, often referred to as the “heel” of the Italian boot (look at a map and you’ll see exactly what I mean). It’s not a specific town or city, but a whole bunch of whitewashed villages, agricultural plains (so many olive groves!), picturesque towns on the sea, and charming coastal cliffs. It’s an entire region of Italy, kinda like Provence in the South of France.

Puglia is bordered by the Adriatic Sea to the east and the Ionian Sea to the southeast, meaning tons of sun-kissed beaches and sea views – my kinda place! To the west, it shares a border with the Basilicata region (where you’ll find Matera), while Campania (with Naples and the Amalfi Coast) lies to the northwest. AND it boasts the most eastern point in Italy (Cape Palascìa, commonly known as Capo d’Otranto).

Here’s a look at the distances from Puglia to some major cities and destinations in Italy:

  • Bari (Puglia’s capital): ~0 kilometers (as it’s in Puglia)
  • Naples: ~250 kilometers (155 miles)
  • Amalfi Coast: ~270 kilometers (168 miles)
  • Rome: ~400 kilometers (250 miles)
  • Florence: ~570 kilometers (354 miles)
  • Cinque Terre: ~650 kilometers (404 miles)
  • Milan: ~950 kilometers (590 miles)

Looking to combine a Puglia road trip with another destination in Italy? A lot of people pair their Puglia itinerary with the Amalfi Coast, but here’s a tip: hit up Amalfi first. Trust me on this one. 

After soaking up the charm of Puglia, the crowds and steep prices in Amalfi can be a bit of a shock. Knock out Amalfi first, and you’ll be pleasantly surprised when you roll into Puglia – fewer tourists and way better prices (on everything from spritz, gelato, and accommodation).

How to Get to Puglia

Thankfully, getting to Puglia is relatively straightforward, whether you’re traveling from within Italy or coming from abroad. 

Flying to Puglia

Yes, there’s airports in Puglia itself (I didn’t realize this until starting to research for our trip). The main airports are Bari Karol Wojtyła Airport (BRI) and Brindisi Airport (BDS). Note that if you’re coming from the US, you’ll most definitely need to connect through a major European hub like Rome or Milan.

Bari Airport is larger and has more international connections, while Brindisi mainly serves regional and seasonal flights. If you’re already in Italy you can fly into either, but choose Bari if you’ll be starting your Puglia road trip in the northern part of the region (like us), or Brindisi to enjoy the endless sandy beaches of Salento and explore Lecce.

Taking the Train to Puglia

Already in Italy like we were? You can easily take the train!

We started our Italian Euro trip in Rome, then took a direct high-speed Trenitalia train from Roma Termini station to Bari Centrale station in just over 4 hours. There’s also direct routes from Naples as well, taking about 3 hours or so.

Psst – there’s also long distance buses available through companies like FlixBus which offer routes to Bari and Lecce from cities like Rome and Naples. These buses take a bit longer than the train, but are often way less expensive.

How to Get Around During your 7 Days in Puglia

Driving around Puglia

Driving is the most popular way to get around Puglia, which is why I highly recommend doing a Puglia road trip! Driving gives you utmost flexibility and freedom – perfect if you wanna savor that second gelato and/or spend a few extra hours swimming in the sparkling sea. 

You can rent a car from Bari or Brindisi airports, the train station in Bari (what we did!), or from major cities.

BUT driving does have its disadvantages unfortunately – parking is tough and to be honest, Italian drivers are kinda aggressive and don’t follow the rules of the road. Way more helpful tips below.

A few parking and driving tips:

Finding a parking spot: Parking in Puglia can be a bit of a learning curve compared to what you’re used to back home. You’ll find a mix of paid and free street parking, plus plenty of parking lots that come in handy. Psst – if you can’t find a lot, just search for “parcheggio” in the town you’re visiting.

On the street (and in some lots), you’ll see different colored lines which indicate specific parking rules. To avoid any annoying tickets (we unfortunately got one!), remember this:

  • Blue lines: You can park here, but a fee is required.
  • White lines: This indicates free parking in the designated area.
  • Yellow lines: Reserved for local residents only (not you!)

If you’re interested in paying for parking via app, download the Easy Park app in advance. You can only use the app if you see a sign for Easy Park on the meter (you’ll need to enter the zone number in the app). 

What is ZTL? The ZTL (Zona a Traffico Limitato) is an area in cities and towns across Puglia and Italy where most cars, especially those of visitors, are restricted. Meaning if you’re not a local, you can’t drive or park in these zones (a big no-no!). ZTL areas are usually located in historic city centers, like those you’ll find in Lecce, Alberobello, Ostuni, etc.

This means you’ll need to park outside the ZTL and walk into the center. But don’t worry – most towns have large paid parking lots conveniently located just outside. We parked plenty of times in the lots and simply walked over to the city center.

International driver’s permit: In order to rent a car in Italy as an international tourist, you need to present an International Driver’s Permit. We typically get ours from AAA, and it’s a super easy process and only ~$20 (plus passport photos). 

Rent a small car: There’s no need for a huge car here in Puglia, and I actually recommend renting the smallest car possible to make parking easier. We drove around in a small Fiat Panda, and were able to park in small spots and navigate the narrow streets with ease. Psst – make sure you know how to properly drive stick if you rent a manual (which is common in Italy and all of Europe). 

Be cautious of local drivers: Just being real and sharing our experience of course, but… we found that locals don’t follow the rules and are super aggressive; they don’t stop at stop signs, they tailgate (pretty badly), and hardly follow speed limits. I guess they’re getting annoyed with the increase of tourism… which I totally get. They don’t look, signal, or stop, they just GO. So be extra, extra vigilant and careful. And always let the locals pass you.

Gas stations: We had no difficulty filling up our car on our Puglia road trip. There’s lots of gas stations around, but be sure to have cash on hand in case your credit card doesn’t work (happened to us a few times). 

Road conditions: Expect mostly paved roads, with lots of one ways, traffic circles, and one lane highways/roads. We thankfully didn’t hit any toll roads (much unlike our Norway road trip, haha), which meant extra cash for gelatos and taralli! You’ll probably encounter some dirt local roads leading to smaller towns and rural areas – these are usually narrower and some have potholes (but OMG the views are outstanding).

Taking the Train around Puglia

If you’re not renting a car (maybe you’re nervous about driving in a different country or would rather not deal with parking), you’ll be glad to know Puglia has a good train network. 

Ferrovie del Sud-Est, which is now under Trenitalia’s ownership, links the smaller towns and inland areas of Puglia. Additionally, Ferrovie Appulo-Lucane connects Puglia with Basilicata, home to the historic city of Matera, Altamura, and Gravina.

Just know there’s not many announcements in English on the trains (keep track of where you are), they run pretty slow, and just assume you’ll be delayed. But hey, they’re not expensive! Just remember to validate your ticket before getting on the train.

While trains make it relatively easy to travel between major cities like Bari, Lecce, and Alberobello, you’ll have a difficult time getting to certain spots on the coastline. Meaning you unfortunately won’t be able to follow my Puglia itinerary exactly.

On foot

Once you’re in town, you can easily wander around on foot. The towns and cities are pretty small, so it’s not hard to see the main highlights by walking. Plus, cars aren’t even allowed in most of them anyways (with the exception of larger cities like Lecce and Bari), so don’t expect any ride shares, haha.  Or you can always get an ape if you’re tired of walking!

When to Plan your 7 Day Puglia Itinerary 

Puglia experiences a Mediterranean climate with distinct seasons, although it’s never a horrible time to visit. I mean, it’s Italy afterall – gelato tastes delicious year round!

Summer (High Season): June to August

Summer is hot and dry. If you’re looking for the heat of Italian summer, you’ll wanna come between June and September (temps often exceed 30°C (86°F)). Yes, it’s the most popular time to visit, but if swimming in the sea, sipping on Aperol spritzes, and enjoying vibrant outdoor festivals are your vibe, then brave the tourists, haha.

But personally? I’d avoid the scorching summer months of July and August. Why? Puglia is an EXTREMELY popular destination for Italian tourists. Meaning the beaches will be over-crowded, restaurants will be hard to get into, and accommodation will be booked out months in advance. Plus, it’s way too hot to actually enjoy strolling around the cities and towns. 

Whatever you do, DO NOT BOOK A TRIP around the holiday “Ferragosto“ on August 15th (there’s an overwhelming number of local tourists then).

Instead of mid-summer, I recommend either very-late May or the very beginning of summer (which I recommend when visiting Greece as well).

For reference, we visited Puglia in early to mid June, and experienced minimal crowds (still lively but nothing insane), near-perfect weather, and the opportunity to enjoy local experiences without the rush. Quite simply, la dolce vita! It wasn’t quite the high season yet, and more crowded than shoulder season, so somewhere in the middle, haha. In my opinion, this is the best time to plan your Puglia itinerary (but make sure you go soon before word gets out about how special Puglia is!). 

Spring (Shoulder Season): March to May

Spring in Puglia brings mild temperatures, ranging from 15°C to 25°C (59°F to 77°F) – meaning it’s the perfect time to explore without breaking a sweat. Crowds are low, especially in March and early April, making it a great time for budget travelers. But just remember that Easter is a huge deal here, so avoid visiting around then.

The sea might be a bit chilly in May, but it’s still fine for a quick dip. Most places will be open for the season by then, and you’ll find the coast is definitely quieter compared to the bustling crowds of July and August.

Fall (Shoulder Season): September to November

Fall starts warm in September (at almost summer temps!), gradually cooling to around 15°C to 25°C (59°F to 77°F) by November. September still sees plenty of tourists, but by early October, the crowds have begun to drop, making it a more relaxed time to visit. 

Plus, prices begin to drop after summer, particularly in late October and November, so this may be a good time to snag some deals on accommodations (luxury masseria, anyone?!)! 

Winter (Low Season): November to February

Winter in Puglia sees cooler temperatures, ranging from 5°C to 15°C (41°F to 59°F). Although tourist numbers are low and accommodations and flights are much less expensive, the weather can be pretty iffy. 

Personally? I’d skip this time of year and visit when there’s a better chance of sun and warm weather – especially if you wanna swim!

Where to Stay in Puglia

When we first started planning our Puglia itinerary, I was super overwhelmed with where to stay. There’s over a dozen towns and cities within the region, so it can be hard to decide exactly which to pick. After doing tons of research (literally hours beyond hours), we ultimately decided to stay in a few different spots!

Note that the eastern side of Puglia is the most popular (this is where you’ll find towns like Alberobello, Polignano a Mare, Ostuni, and Monopoli), so hotel prices will be higher, especially in the height of summer. 

I recommend breaking up your trip into a few parts, and choosing a few home bases so you aren’t lugging your stuff around each and every day (and needing to change hotels every night, how annoying!).

Special accommodation in Puglia

Whatever you do, don’t miss a bucket list experience staying in a trulli and/or a masseria (an old, renovated farmhouse kinda similar to a Finca in Spain). Our trulli was actually set on a masseria so we got the best of both worlds and had both experiences all on the same night!

Make sure to book a trulli hotel and/or masseria way in advance as they get booked up early – sometimes even a few months in advance.

Masseria: As soon as we started planning our Puglia itinerary, I kept hearing about masserias! What are they? Old farmhouses and estates that have been beautifully renovated and converted into tourist accommodations. Many have stylish minimalist designs and an emphasis on lush gardens, traditional cuisine, and sometimes even their own olive groves or vineyards.

There’s a whole bunch in the Itria Valley, and we had such a hard time choosing which one to book! We ultimately decided on the stunning Borgo Canonica, but I was also looking into Masseria Moroseta, Masseria Il Frantoio, Masseria Grieco, and Masseria Le Carrube (we missed out on a few of these because we booked too late).

Trulli: Another speciality accommodation in Puglia! These are the famous iconic round stone structures with conical roofs. You’ll find plenty of them in Alberobello, but they’re actually dotted all around the valley. Expect whitewashed walls, exposed stone, rustic allure, and modern comfort. 

We moved around a bit more than I’d like, staying in Polignano a Mare, a masseria outside of Cisternino, Otranto, Gallipoli, and Matera. Plus a night in Bari before our Puglia road trip since our train got in so late from Rome. It definitely worked and I loved that we maximized our time, but I personally hate having to pack up my suitcase every damn time, haha. 

Of course you can stay in any of the towns in Puglia, but we based ourselves in the following for our 10 day trip:

If you follow my exact Puglia road trip itinerary (or something similar), those areas will work really well if you wanna minimize your driving times. 

Additional Puglia Itinerary FAQs

Currency in Puglia: Like in most other European countries, the currency of Italy (including Puglia) is the euro. Don’t expect to use dollars or pounds (or any other currency) here. I recommend carrying around a bit of cash for street vendors, markets, small, family-owned restaurants, and local shops.

Language in Puglia: The official language in Puglia is Italian. However, you’ll also encounter some regional dialects, such as Pugliese, which can vary significantly across different areas of the region. 

While most people in the hospitality industry (like hotel staff and restaurant workers) speak some English, it’s important to note that Puglia isn’t as heavily frequented by international tourists as other regions of Italy. Therefore, you shouldn’t expect everyone to speak English fluently. We got by with our extremely limited Italian, and locals really appreciated it when we tried to speak their language. 

Is Puglia expensive? Depends who you’re asking, haha. Puglia has become more expensive over the past 10-15 years, but it’s still a budget-friendly option compared to the Amalfi Coast, Cinque Terre, and major cities like Rome and Florence. 

Accommodations in Puglia often provide better value, with charming agriturismos and affordable B&Bs available. We found restaurants to be generally less expensive (a huge plate of delicious fresh pasta was no more than 15 euro), and while some beach clubs charge for loungers and umbrellas, there’s also plenty of free public beaches. 

Beaches in Puglia: Puglia is known for its stunning beaches, but most visitors don’t realize that many of these are actually rocky! Although you can totally hang out on the rocks like the locals do, just bring water shoes. 

Note — Head to the western coast for the best sandy shores. 

You’ll see many lidos (Italian beach clubs) dotting the coastline, with things like sun loungers, umbrellas, and beachside dining. And thankfully they usually come at a reasonable price, unlike those on the Amalfi Coast!

How many days to spend in Puglia? We spent 7 days in Puglia (9 if you count our time in Matera), and thought it was the perfect amount of time. 

Many people come for less (4 or 5 days in Puglia seem to be kinda popular), but I honestly don’t think it’s enough. This can work if you focus on the popular spots of Polignano a Mare, Alberobello, and the towns in the Valle d’Itria, but gives little room to really explore and relax at the beaches (or head to the stunning west coast).

If you can swing it, I highly recommend at least a week in Puglia.

What are the main towns in Puglia?

  • Bari: The vibrant capital of Puglia, known for its historic old town, beautiful seafront promenade, and the stunning Basilica di San Nicola.
  • Lecce: Often called the “Florence of the South,” Lecce is famous for its baroque architecture, including the intricate Basilica di Santa Croce and stunning piazzas.
  • Alberobello: Renowned for its unique trulli houses, this ridiculously popular (and crowded!) UNESCO World Heritage site offers a fairytale-like atmosphere with its cone-roofed buildings.
  • Ostuni: Known as the “White City,” Ostuni features charming whitewashed buildings perched on a hilltop, offering stunning views of the surrounding countryside.
  • Polignano a Mare: A picturesque coastal town famous for its dramatic cliffs, crystal-clear waters, and charming old town, as well as being the birthplace of the famous singer Domenico Modugno.
  • Monopoli: This coastal gem boasts beautiful beaches, a charming old town with narrow streets, and a lovely harbor lined with fishing boats.
  • Gallipoli: A historic town on the Ionian Sea, Gallipoli is known for its beautiful beaches, old town situated on an island, and a lively seafood scene.
  • Matera: Although technically in the Basilicata region, it’s often included in Puglia itineraries for its breathtaking cave dwellings (Sassi) and rich history as a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Puglia vs. Salento: When I first started planning our Puglia road trip, I was a tad confused about this! Puglia refers to the entire region (all the way from Gargano in the north to Santa Maria di Leuca in the south), while Salento is only the southern peninsula of Puglia (the actual heel looking part of the region).

What to Eat in Puglia (Local Specialities)

Let’s face it – one of the main reasons we love traveling to Italy is to eat ALL the delicious food. And lemme tell ya – Puglia did not disappoint one bit. Let’s just say we ate really well during our week in Puglia, haha.

There’s a reason Puglia is often called the “breadbasket of Italy” – the land is super fertile here, which then produces an abundance of high-quality ingredients. Puglia prioritizes fresh, seasonal produce, the pasta is often handmade, and OMG that olive oil is delicious. And the region is famous for its burrata – reason enough for a Puglia road trip, haha.

Here’s some of the most popular local dishes and specialties you should try:

  • Orecchiette: ear-shaped pasta that’s the true signature dish of Puglia, often served with cime di rapa (turnip tops/broccoli rabe) or a simple tomato sauce
  • Focaccia Barese: a thick, soft focaccia topped with tomatoes, olives, and sometimes herbs — a perfect snack or appetizer
  • Pasticciotto: a sweet pastry filled with custard or cream (my new favorite, especially when served warm)
  • Burrata: a creamy cheese that originated in Puglia, made from mozzarella and cream. My all-time favorite thing!
  • Sgagliozze: fried polenta squares, usually served as a street food snack
  • Tiella di Riso, Patate e Cozze: a savory pie made with rice, potatoes, and mussels, baked to perfection
  • Cicoria: sautéed chicory, often served as a side dish, highlighting the region’s fresh vegetables
  • Lampascioni: sweet-tasting wild hyacinth bulbs, often pickled or sautéed
  • Seafood: Puglia’s coastal location means fresh seafood is a staple — dishes like spaghetti alle vongole (spaghetti with clams) and grilled fish are common
  • Vino Primitivo: a robust red wine native to Puglia
  • Taralli: a crunchy, ring-shaped cracker that’s often flavored with olive oil eaten as a snack (and it’s delicious!)

Now that all the important logistics are outta the way, let’s get started on the Puglia road trip! 

Perfect 7 Day Puglia Road Trip Itinerary

A few notes about this Puglia road trip:

  • This Puglia itinerary assumes you have 7+ full days to explore the region. Meaning you’ve arrived the day/night before, and are ready to start exploring the next morning. If you have less time for your Puglia road trip, you’ll unfortunately need to cut out a few towns/villages. 
  • This Puglia road trip itinerary is a ROAD TRIP. Yes, you can still see and do a lot on this Puglia itinerary by taking the trains, but you’ll need to skip quite a few local experiences/sights and you won’t be able to be as flexible. 
  • In order to see and do a whole lot, it’s very go-go-go. While there’s a little time on this Puglia itinerary for some relaxation and beach time, it’s still a very active trip. Feel free to pick and choose what you do in each town if you’d rather swim a bit more. 
  • You’ll wanna make some restaurant reservations in advance, especially if you’re visiting between July and September – the most crowded months in Puglia.
  • Whatever you do, don’t miss a night at a masseria and/or a trulli, dinner at a masseria (farmhouse), and a local cheese making demonstration. Three of our favorite experiences. 
  • This itinerary assumes you’re moving around and NOT basing yourself in Bari or one town. Distances are long (Puglia is larger than most people realize – it’s 10x the size of Rhode Island!), so you’ll need to switch accommodation every few nights in order to minimize drive times.
  • It skips Lecce entirely. Why? Since we were more focused on scenic beauty, beaches, and small towns, we decided to skip Lecce, one of the larger cities on the Puglian peninsula. I’ll make a note in the itinerary below where it’d fit best if you wanna include it on your Puglia itinerary. 

Day 0: Getting to Bari

First things first, get yourself over to Puglia!

Since we were coming from San Francisco all the way in Northern California, we opted to take nonstop flights to Rome (we’ve come to hate connecting flights and will always choose direct if possible, haha). Because of that, after some gelato and spontaneous colosseum sightseeing, we took a 4 hour train from Roma Termini station straight to Bari.

We arrived quite late (well after dark), so were glad we booked a hotel within walking distance to the train station. If you arrive earlier than we did, you can drive straight to Polignano a Mare for an extra night over there. 

Where to Stay in Bari: Palazzo Danisi Rooms & Suites (great location and large, clean rooms, although a teeny-tiny elevator, haha)

Day 1: Pick up rental car in Bari, head to Polignano a Mare

Benvenuto in Puglia (Welcome to Puglia!). It’s the first official day of your Puglia road trip, so go pick up your rental car (we rented from Sixt by the Bari Centrale train station), and make your way over to Polignano a Mare! The drive should only take about 30 minutes or so.

Polignano a Mare is one of the most popular towns in all of Puglia. Known for its breathtaking cliffs and crystal-clear waters, it features a jaw-dropping landscape that perfectly captures the vibe of the Italian coastline. The town is also famous for its charming old town, filled with narrow streets and vibrant local culture.

And once you get here, spend the day exploring this stunning coastal town. You can honestly just wander around (the whole area is stunning right on the Adriatic Sea), but here’s a few things not to miss:

  • Grab cocktails with a view at Aquamarea
  • Have some of the best focaccia of your life at La Focacceria
  • Stroll through the Old Town
  • Admire the views from Belvedere su Lama Monachile – THE iconic viewpoint in Polignano a Mare (it gets busy over here)
  • Take photos from Belvedere Terrazza Santo Stefano and Pendma Chiatt (two other stunning viewpoints)
  • Take a boat ride through the cliffs and caves – this was easily our favorite thing we did in Polignano a Mare (complete with swimming in the sparkling sea and sunbathing on the deck) 
  • Sunbathe on Lama Monachile surrounded by dramatic towering cliffs (if you can find a spot for your towel, haha)
  • Indulge in the best gelato at MOREA Gelatieri (we loved the pistachio and stracciatella flavors)
  • Try the special coffee (coffee, amaretto, cream, and lemon zest) at The Super Mago del Gelo Mario Campanella
  • Learn how to make orecchiette pasta in an Apulian cooking class with a local 

Should you have dinner at the iconic Grotta Palazzese? This is the most famous restaurant in Polignano a Mare, and possibly all of Puglia. Reviews say the food is nothing to write home about and it’s nothing special, BUT it’s the experience of literally dining inside a natural sea cave overlooking the sea that’s the real draw. 

We opted to skip it, as there’s a minimum spend of €195 per person and we’d rather spend that money on other things. But you decide for yourself – it’s always busy for a reason (you need to make reservations months in advance).

Where to Sleep: San Michele Suites in Polignano a Mare 

We absolutely adored this hotel, and had the famous viewpoint right next to us! Breakfast was served in a cozy dining room every morning, staff were beyond helpful with anything and everything, and we loved the private parking – so convenient. 

If San Michele Suites is sold out or you’re looking for a hotel a bit more lively, check out Aquamarea (we couldn’t decide between the two and kinda just flipped a coin, haha).

Day 2: Day Trip to Monopoli

Next up on this Puglia itinerary – a day trip to Monopoli, only a 15 minute drive from Polignano a Mare. 

Morning: Cheese Demonstration

But first, a cheese demonstration and tasting! There’s a few of them in the area, but we chose to book at Masseria Lamapecora, a super authentic, family-owned dairy farm. We saw the entire process of burrata, stracciatella, and fresh mozzarella making from start to finish. 

And once the demonstrations were over, we were given entire plates full of soft and hard cheese to snack on (the ricotta was TO DIE FOR), salami, olives, bread, AND an entire jug of wine (so much that even we, self-proclaimed cheese lovers, couldn’t finish it all). I’d plan to skip breakfast for sure. A definite highlight of our Puglia road trip.

Psst – if you’d rather do a cheese tour on Day 4 closer to Ostuni, here’s two options: 

Afternoon: Hang in Monopoli

After stuffing yourself with cheese, make the short drive to Monopoli – it’s only 15 minutes away.

Monopoli is a traditional fishing town set right on the Adriatic with a picturesque port and a charming old town. It’s a bit more laid-back and feels more authentic than nearby Polignano a Mare, and definitely one of our favorite little towns on this Puglia itinerary. You can definitely see glimpses of everyday life here – exactly what we love about traveling in Italy.

A few things to not-miss here in Monopoli:

  • Get lost and photograph the historic old town (centro storico)
  • Step into the stunning Cattedrale Maria Santissima della Madia, a beautiful domed Baroque church with tons of marble artwork
  • Hang on the rocks by Cala Porta Vecchia (Monopoli’s town beach) and take a dip in the sea 
  • Stroll along the lungomare (a walking promenade that runs along the coast) and visit Castello Carlo V (a beautifully restored 16th century castle)
  • Visit Porto Antico, a cute fisherman’s harbor with iconic blue and red gonzo fishing boats 
  • Take a walking tour of Monopoli to learn about its rich history and local traditions
  • Sample Puglian specialities (like focaccia, panzerottini, gelato, taralli, olives, and a glass of wine on a street food tour 

Night: Dinner at a Masseria 

A dinner at a masseria (a restored farmhouse often set amidst olive groves and farmland) is an intimate experience you don’t wanna miss while here in Puglia. And boy were we blown away! Most offer home-cooked meals featuring local ingredients, and only have a few tables available per night – so be sure to book early!

We chose dinner at Masseria Il Frantoio, and lemme tell ya, the website doesn’t do the place justice (at all). To be honest, we didn’t know exactly what we were booking, and were more than pleasantly surprised. We feasted on an 8-course meal with dishes like asparagus flan, squash blossom fritters, ragout pasta (cooked to absolute perfection I might add), meat rolls with caciocavallo cheese, and chard with lentil cream. 

I could eat that meal every single night of my life and die happy. And I LOVED that the dishes were 100% organic, with most ingredients straight from the farm on their property! Exactly what we come to Italy for.

We sat outside in the courtyard filled with blooming flowers, twinkling fairy lights, and candles – oh so romantic and dreamy.  One of our favorite nights on our Puglia itinerary by far! 

I had really wanted to do the blind tasting meal at Masseria Moroseta, but sadly it was already booked up! Once you know your dates, book dinner at a masseria ASAP.

Logistically, dinner at Masseria Il Frantoio may work better on Night 3 as it’s closer to Ostuni/Cisternino, but we wanted to ensure we had ample time to enjoy our hotel the next night (you’ll see what I mean). Plus, we booked too late and it was completely sold out other nights, whoops.

Where to Sleep: San Michele Suites or Aquamarea in Polignano a Mare 

Day 3: Towns in Valle D’Itria 

Morning: Alberobello

Wake up bright and early – we’re off to Alberobello, Puglia’s trulli town (about a 30 minute drive from Polignano a Mare)! This is where you’ll find the iconic trulli, traditional dry stone huts with conical roofs. And it sure looks like a fairytale with over 1,000 trulli here!

Since Alberobello is one of the most touristy towns in Puglia, you’ll wanna get here on the earlier side to beat the big buses that drop people off in hundreds. We parked around 8:30am or so and wandered amongst the trulli for a bit until it got crowded. Then we had some of the best focacceria al pomodoro of our lives at La Lira and promptly left, haha. A few hours was enough for us (plus we had more towns to see!). 

There’s honestly not tons to do here besides strolling around the UNESCO World Heritage Site, so just soak in the atmosphere and pick up a fun souvenir or two. Alberobello is the main tourist trap in Puglia, but still a must-see (just arrive early!).

The town is divided into two main districts: Rione Monti and Rione Aia Piccola. Rione Monti is the more touristy area (with the highest concentration of trulli), where many trulli have been converted into shops, cafes, and accommodations. Rione Aia Piccola is a smaller but less touristy area of trulli, that’s much quieter and has a more residential feel. 

If you’d rather wander around with a local guide and actually learn a thing or two, consider signing up for this 2-hour guided trulli tour. I think our visit would have had a lot more meaning if we understood the history and significance.

Pro tip: Keep an eye out for signs that say “Vista Panoramica” and head up to enjoy the view from the shop’s terrace. To access the stunning viewpoints, you’ll need to buy something from the shop – just a small purchase will do!

Psst – before heading to Alberobello we checked out of our hotel and packed up our bags so we could leave them in the car for the day. No reason to head back to Polignano a Mare if there’s no reason to. We made sure to remove any valuables and left nothing in plain sight (something we’re accustomed to living in San Francisco).

Afternoon: Explore the Itria Valley 

Once you’ve had enough of the inevitable crowds in Alberobello, make your way to a few other towns in the Itria Valley (Valle d’Itria). This is a picturesque region in Puglia known for its rolling hills, charming towns, idyllic countryside, and distinctive trulli houses (like what we just saw this morning).

Besides Alberobello, there’s three popular towns in the valley not far from each other (10-15 minutes away). I suggest picking two and wandering throughout those for an hour or two each, stopping whenever you’re hungry, haha. 

One of the main draws of these towns is the lack of tourist attractions (and crowds) – simply wander around and enjoy (with a few aperol spritz of course). 

They each offer a slice of authentic Italian life, very much the opposite of touristy Alberobello, haha.

  • Locorotondo: We loved little Locorotondo! The town is known for its circular historic center, whitewashed buildings, and breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside. We had a lovely afternoon break sipping cocktails at a charming terrace bar overlooking the vineyards, olive groves, and trulli below. Truly relaxing and idyllic, even with the Italian sun beating down on us. Don’t miss Punto Panoramico Locorotondo – we loved this little park at the top of the hill with panoramic views of the Itria Valley.
  • Cisternino: Another quaint hilltop town renowned for its well-preserved medieval architecture and narrow cobblestone streets. Time really slows down here, and it’s the perfect spot to enjoy a coffee or aperitivo.
  • Martina Franca: We didn’t end up making it over to Martina Franca, but I’ve heard really good things! Known for its stunning baroque architecture, the town features impressive palaces and churches, particularly the Basilica di San Martino, which showcases intricate details and a beautiful facade. 

Note that many towns essentially shut down between 1 PM and 4 PM – meaning they’re super quiet and not much is open (although parking may be free!). We inadvertently visited Cisternino during this down time and found practically everything closed besides one gelato shop. Other people seem to love Cisternino but it was way too quiet for us, possibly due to the hours we visited. Just something to keep in mind.

Night: Relax and Dinner at Borgo Canonica

After exploring the tiny towns of the Itria Valley, we made our way to our accommodation for the night – the special Borgo Canonica! Part masseria, part trulli, it’s truly the best of both worlds.

We spent a few relaxing hours lounging by the pool, sipping spritz’ at sunset, enjoying our spacious trulli suite, and then eating a delicious dinner amongst the olive trees. Another perfect night. 

If you really can’t sit still and wanna take advantage of the night, you can head over to Borgo Antico Bistro in Ostuni for sunset and dinner/drinks. We absolutely LOVED our time at Borgo Canonica so decided to stay on the masseria grounds instead of rushing around. 

Where to Sleep: Borgo Canonica (right outside Cisternino)

There’s quite a few trulli hotels to choose from, but we LOVED this one set in the heart of Valle D’Itria, while still feeling remote, quiet, and relaxing. The hotel grounds are stunning, the pool is oh so peaceful, and it was so fun to sleep in a trulli! Plus, there’s free private parking which is always appreciated. 

Day 4: Ostuni and Otranto

Late morning and Lunch: Ostuni

After a slow morning at our masseria, we had an eventful few hours in Ostuni. It’s known as the “White City of Puglia” because of all the beautiful whitewashed houses, which many say resemble Greece, but I honestly didn’t see it, haha.

Regardless, we had the most insane orecchiette pasta, loved the views over the valley, and ended up at the police station (for a parking ticket… which took us forever to figure out how to pay lol).

A few things not to miss in Ostuni:

  • Lunch at Osteria Piazzetta Cattedral, a Michelin-starred restaurant with a cozy dining room where we had a delicious meal of orecchiette with turnip tops 
  • Take in the views of Ostuni from Aussichtspunkt Ostuni Altstadt
  • Admire the frescoes of the Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta
  • Stroll along Via Cattedrale, a famous street with plenty of shops and restaurants
  • Take a photo of the iconic Blue Door (La Casa con la Porta Blu) 
  • People watch and enjoy a gelato at Arco Scoppa
  • Explore the maze of narrow, winding streets in the historic center 
  • Beat the heat and save your feet by taking an Ape tour of the town (a 40 minute tour of the old city on wheels)
  • Enjoy aperitivos and wine at Borgo Antico Bistrot 

If you’re looking to include Lecce on your Puglia itinerary, this is the afternoon to do so. Lecce is a larger city with a more urban vibe, famous for its gigantic cathedral in the massive Piazza del Duomo and the Roman Amphitheater at Piazza Sant’Oronzo. And make sure to try the local pastry, the delicious cream-filled pasticciotto.

I think if we hadn’t gotten that parking ticket, we would have spent a few hours in Lecce, but we sadly missed it. I honestly wasn’t too fussed about missing out since I was more interested in all the scenic beauty than the history and Baroque architecture in Lecce. Plus, I was heading to Florence in a few weeks, and people say Lecce is the “Florence of the South”, so… lol. 

Afternoon/Night: Otranto

​​After you’re done strolling through Puglia’s Città Bianca (White City), make the drive over to Otranto, about an hour and a half away (or 35 minutes from Lecce).

We spent a few hours wandering around Otranto, grabbing cones at Gelateria Fisotti (such big chunks of pieces), admiring the turquoise sea, and walking around the shops in the centro storico. To say we got lucky with sunset is an understatement – just look at those gorgeous colors! We watched from the rooftop patio of our hotel (Hotel Palazzo Papaleo) and the colors just kept getting better!

If you’re looking for a dinner rec, I HIGHLY recommend Patronale – my shrimp spaghetti was some of the best I’ve ever had, and my husband devoured his linguine alle vongole (pasta with clams).

Where to sleep: Hotel Palazzo Papaleo in Otranto (or Lecce if you’re feeling a more urban vibe)

Our hotel had a fantastic rooftop complete with hot tub, bar, and sunset views, in a perfect location right in the center of town, plus the staff were SO helpful (basically helped us plan out our next two days AND helped us understand how to pay the parking ticket, haha). Such a great stay!

Day 5: Otranto and East Coast of Southern Puglia

We’re off to the sea today! The east coast of southern Puglia is absolutely spectacular (and filled with breathtaking rock formations and sparkling waters), so you should make a day trip out of it. Thankfully the furthest spot is only 25 minutes away from Otranto! 

Our day actually started with a cloudy morning and then our first Italian thunderstorm (spritzes were had and we paid our parking ticket lol), so we had a later-than-anticipated start. Hopefully this doesn’t happen to you, but oh well, travel be like that sometimes!

There’s three specific spots I recommend you visit:

Torre Sant’Andrea 

Our first stop was Torre Sant’Andrea – and thankfully there’s easy paid parking at Parcheggio dei Faraglioni. From there, it’s just a quick stroll to reach the stunning viewpoints. If you’re only here for photos, plan to spend about 30 to 60 minutes soaking in the scenery. 

However, if you’re keen on swimming, be sure to allocate a few hours for a proper dip in the crystal-clear waters. Just a heads-up: while you can swim here, it’s best to wear water shoes since the entrance is rocky and there isn’t a sandy beach.

The unique rock stacks known as I Faraglioni di Sant’Andrea reminded me of the dramatic cliffs along the Seven Hanging Valleys Trail in Lagos, Portugal, and even the Great Ocean Road in Australia!

Torre Dell’Orso 

Next, we made our way to Torre dell’Orso, one of my favorite spots on our entire Puglia road trip! Just wait until you see the aquamarine waters from above – oh so sparkly and inviting. 

Note that there’s kinda two parts to Torre dell’Orso –  a large sandy beach (Torre dell’Orso Beach) with plenty of beach clubs and calm turquoise waters, and a cliff viewpoint overlooking Le Due Sorelle, the two sisters (at Panorama due Sorelle). 

These are two rock formations that rise dramatically from the Ionian Sea – and while the rocks were great for photos, I actually loved looking out towards the crystal-clear sea even more! 

We didn’t make it down to the beach and just enjoyed the views from above on the cliffs, but if you’re itching to swim you’ll wanna drive over. 

Grotta Della Poesia/Cave of Poetry

Last but not least on our itinerary for the day was Grotta Della Poesia, or the Cave of Poetry. This natural swimming pool is renowned for its beauty, though swimming is no longer permitted here (although some people break the rules, don’t be one of them — the cave is closed for a reason). To access the cave, it costs a few euros to enter the larger Roca Archaeological Area. 

I have to admit that I enjoyed the scenery walking to the cave better than the cave itself, haha. But it’s still quite epic of course. 

Night: After a few hours along the rugged coastline of Salento, we spent the rest of the day and night further exploring the streets of Otranto. 

We had more gelato at Gelateria Fisotti (I swear, not all gelato is created equal), hung out at the public beach, and tried some pasticciotto from Martinucci Laboratorio! We were blessed with yet another gorgeous sunset along the sea and indulged in some delicious pasta on one of the quiet streets. 

Where to sleep: Hotel Palazzo Papaleo in Otranto 

Day 6: Beach Hopping on the Salento Coast

After saying goodbye to gorgeous Otranto (it was my husband’s favorite town!), we made our way over to Gallipoli. But not without plenty of scenic stops and beach hopping of course. It was definitely the most beautiful drive of the entire Puglia road trip since we were along the coast for a good portion of it.

Here’s how we spent our day:

Stop 1: Cava di Bauxite

Cava di Bauxite is a former bauxite quarry (where bauxite was mined), with vibrant red rocks contrasting with the deep blue waters. This was a quick stop for us (just know you’ll need to walk about 15 minutes or so to reach the cave) and loved the natural beauty and unique geological features – I had never seen anything like it.

I wouldn’t consider Cava di Bauxite an absolute must do, but since it’s less than 10 minutes away from Otranto and on the way to our next stop, why not pop over? The landscape really is quite unique and dramatic, although it was SUPER windy when we visited (my hair was EVERYWHERE, hence no pics of me, haha).

Stop 2: Bagno Marino Archi

Time for our first stop by the sea! Bagno Marino Archi is a quintessential Italian lido where you can rent loungers and umbrellas, although it’s definitely on the pricier end. We actually didn’t end up renting anything (we didn’t think we’d be there for too long), so instead we walked along the cliffs and checked out the views instead. 

Note that there’s no proper beach here, but instead ladders to get into the sea. When we visited in the AM in early June, there was hardly anyone there. But I heard it’s packed midday in July, so come early!

Stop 3: Porto Miggiano Beach

I only had time for a quick look at Porto Miggiano Beach, but damn, it was drop-dead gorgeous! The dramatic cliffs and crystal-clear turquoise waters had me wishing I could stay longer and soak in the beauty of this local favorite. Again, there’s no sandy beach here, but everyone just hangs out on the rocks and jumps in.

We were a little confused as to where to park at first (we mistakenly parked at the port instead) and ended up walking through a private beach club to get here – but don’t worry, there’s a lot super close, haha. Whoops!

Stop 4: Piscina Zinzulusa 

Piscina Zinzulusa is a stunning saltwater swimming pool overlooking the Adriatic sea. And whoa those views! Cliffs and grottos and the deep blue sea.

And get this – there was literally no one there, just us!!! If this spot was on the Amalfi Coast, Sicily, Greece, or anywhere else really, it’d be beyond packed. But since it was early June in Puglia, we had it all to ourselves! So, so wild! But come later in the season, and it’ll most likely be packed, haha.

Stop 5: Grotta Zinzulusa 

Right by the pool you’ll find Zinzulusa Cave where you can explore the underground wonders of Puglia on a short guided tour. 

In all honesty, while the cave was cool (and I saw tons of stalagmites and stalactites), I actually liked the views leading to the grotto more than the cave itself, haha. We had to wait quite a while for the tour to start, so if you’re short on time and wanna see lots on your Puglia road trip, I might skip this if I were you.

Stop 6: Anam Terrace and Calle d’ Acquaviva 

Anam Terrace is the ultimate spot for cocktails and lunch, with killer views over Calle d’Acquaviva – a stunning grotto with crystal-clear turquoise waters. The vibe was so chill it felt more like Bali than Italy, and my husband’s obsession with the cacio e pepe made it even better – just be warned, it’s packed in the summer (are you sensing a theme yet?). 

Stop 7: Spiaggia di Pescoluse (Maldive del Salento)

Spiaggia di Pescoluse is known as the Maldives of Salento, and yes, it’s a beautiful beach with fine sand and turquoise waters! But does it compare to the beaches in the Maldives? While I haven’t been just yet, I honestly don’t think so (based on photos I’ve seen). We got unlucky with lots of wind, but hey, it’s better than dripping in the heat!

Night: Sunset and Dinner in Gallipoli 

We made it to Gallipoli just in time for sunset at the port (thank goodness for long summer days)! AND we somehow got a table at Trattoria La Puritate – where we feasted on yet more plates of pasta (my spaghetti al limone was just wow!).

Parking in Gallipoli: Like other towns in Puglia, you can’t park directly in Old Town. If your hotel doesn’t have its own parking lot (like ours did!), you’ll need to find a space in the large parking lot by the main port (Parcheggio Porto Gallipoli). From there, it’s a short walk to the castle and Old Town.

Where to sleep: Biancodonda Lifestyle Hotel & SPA in Gallipoli

We loved this hotel and its convenient parking lot, spacious room (which was HUGE with a fabulous shower), and included spa facilities. We didn’t end up using the outdoor pool, but it looked pretty great.

Day 7: Gallipoli, beaches, then Matera

Morning: Explore Gallipoli

Gallipoli is a beautiful coastal city on the western side of Salento, with an old town located on an island (you can easily walk there from the mainland by bridge). It’s small, so you really only need a few hours to wander around. 

To be honest, there’s not a ton of things to do in Gallipoli; a visit is more about strolling the streets and city walls, taking in the beach and coastal views.

A few things not to miss in Gallipoli:

  • Get lost in the narrow, charming streets of Gallipoli’s historic center (Old Town)
  • Check out Castello Angioino, an epic 13th century castle for killer views and a dose of history
  • Chill at Spiaggia della Purità, the main beach in Gallipoli with soft sand and gorgeous water
  • Snap pics at the Cathedral of Sant’Agata, a beautiful cathedral with stunning baroque architecture 
  • Stroll the seafront promenade/city walls for views of the sea and fishing boats (where we watched the sunset the night before)

Afternoon: Punta Prosciutto Beach

Between Gallipoli and Matera (our next stop if you have a few extra days), there’s quite a few spectacular beaches! May as well stop for a quick swim or sunbathe session!

We stopped at Punta Prosciutto Beach for a bit, and basked in the sun with limon granitas in hand. Pure paradise in Puglia! The sea was sparkling, the sun was shining, and we were completely relaxed under our umbrellas.

There’s also Porto Selvaggio, Spiaggia di Torre Lapillo (with lots of beach clubs like Orange Sun and Bahia del Sol Porto Cesareo), and tons more along the coastline. 

Night: Matera

If you only have time for 7 days in Puglia, you’ll need to head back to Bari or Brindisi or wherever you’re leaving from. BUT if you’ve got more time for your Puglia road trip, I HIGHLY recommend making your way over to Matera

This city is technically not in Puglia itself, but next door in the Basilicata region. Which is why so many people include it on their Puglia itinerary.

Matera is a remarkable city in southern Italy (and actually Italy’s oldest at 9,000 years old), famous for its ancient cave dwellings known as “Sassi.” I won’t go into much detail here since I’ll be explaining more on Day 8, but the second we arrived at our hotel, WHOA just WHOA. We truly felt like we entered another world, and I highly recommend arriving before sunset so you can really take advantage of some daylight before heading to dinner.

After checking into our cave suite at Aquatio Cave Luxury Hotel, we promptly set off for sunset drinks at Terrazza Cavalieri – one of the most popular spots overlooking the Sassi. It gets busy here but thankfully we got a seat!

Quick Note: Parking in Matera is kinda a nightmare. You’ll need to stick to the newer part of the city and make sure to avoid the ZTL. We parked in the first spot we saw (on the outskirts of the Sassi), paid for street parking for the entire duration of our time in Matera, and then didn’t move the car until we were ready to leave the city for good. 

Past — make note of where you park your car. We had a slight panic attack when we realized the night before leaving that we didn’t remember where we parked (on some random side street I might add, haha). Luckily, we had paid enough attention the previous afternoon and found it no problem, phew!

Sleep: Aquatio Cave Luxury Hotel in Matera

I HIGHLY recommend sleeping in a cave hotel during your time in Matera. I mean, what a unique experience! There’s plenty of luxury options (what we opted for), with a blend of ancient charm and modern comfort. These caves had been inhabited for thousands of years – whoa! Our hotel (Aquatio Cave Luxury Hotel) boasted an insane spa in a beautifully lit cave that we definitely took advantage of, haha.

We also looked at Sextantio Le Grotte Della Civita, Sant’Angelo Luxury Resort, and Cenobio Hotel & Spa Matera – but ultimately chose Aquatio Cave Luxury Hotel due to its location and mid-level price.

Day 8: Full day in Matera

Wake up in Matera (hopefully in your epic cave hotel), and you’ll immediately feel the magic of Matera. The city is known for its cave dwellings, and they’ve got some wild stories to tell.

These unique structures, carved right into the limestone, date back thousands of years and are actually a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Sassi di Matera is made up of two districts – Sasso Barisano and Sasso Caveoso – where you can just wander the narrow alleys and stumble upon cool churches, quirky shops, and some great local food.

Matera’s got such a fascinating history – people have been living there since Roman times, all the way through the Byzantine era and beyond. You’ll really notice the contrast when you see the “Sassi,” which are the two areas filled with those ancient cave dwellings. They’re totally different from the newer parts of town, so it’s easy to spot!

The city started getting attention recently, especially when it was named a European Capital of Culture in 2019. Its gorgeous landscapes and incredible architecture have even made it a hotspot for filmmakers; you might recognize it from movies like “The Passion of the Christ” and “No Time to Die.”

Honestly, the mix of ancient history, stunning views, and a lively cultural scene makes Matera such a cool place to visit if you want to see a different side of Italy.

Definitely read my full guide to Matera afterwards, but here are some things you definitely don’t wanna miss:

  • Visit some of the top lookout points, including Belvedere of Luigi Guerricchio (Three Arches) and Belvedere Murgia Timone (15 minutes away)
  • Admire some of Matera’s cool “rock churches” (namely Church of Santa Maria de Idris and Church of Saint Peter Caveoso)
  • Explore Palombaro Lungo, the city’s historic underground cistern (only takes 10 minutes to see and a nice respite from the heat) and pretty cool
  • Wander the sassi’s narrow alleyways, get a little lost (in a good way), and keep an eye out for hidden gems
  • Explore Matera New Town, drastically different from the “Sassi” (a whole different vibe), with lots of shops and places to grab a bite
  • Sip cocktails in a cave at Bar Zipa and sunset spritz with a view at Crialoss Panoramic Cave Cafe Bistrot  
  • Take an Ape tour of Matera to learn the history of the city and get off your feet for a bit

Sleep: Aquatio Cave Luxury Hotel in Matera

Day 9: Head back to Bari 

It’s sadly the last day of our Puglia road trip, so say goodbye to all the cute kitties (and views) in Matera, and make your way back to Bari. But not before making a few stops of course! 

If you need to get back ASAP for a train/flight, just know the drive takes about 50 minutes to Bari and 1 hour, 45 minutes to Brindisi without stopping. Since we had a train later in the day, we had a few hours to explore before our train from Bari to Rome.

Stop 1: Gravina in Puglia

Gravina in Puglia is such a cool spot, especially if you’re into James Bond – the bridge over here was featured in the latest movie, No Time to Die! 

But honestly, while the bridge is impressive, the ravine it spans is even more breathtaking. We wanted to get closer but there was a lot of construction going on and we got confused about where to drive, haha.

Stop 2: Altamura 

We made a short stop in Altamura to try the famous bread at Antico Forno Santa Caterina dal 1391. Yes, these ovens have been used for over 750 years, and the craftsmanship is impressive. The focaccia we tried was delicious and we watched the bakers preparing the bread right in the shop.

We even got to see a sweet older woman hand-shaping tons of orecchiette pasta right across from the bakery. Although she spoke zero English (to be expected, haha), it was such a cool moment to watch – and definitely gave me a taste of the real Puglia vibe!

Stop 3: Bari

Our last stop of the day before getting on our train to Rome. Bari was way more modern and hip than I anticipated, and it’s a shame mostly everyone skips it as we really enjoyed our few hours here! 

We strolled through the narrow, winding streets of the Old Town (Bari Vecchia), saw local women making orecchiette pasta on the streets (at La Via delle Orecchiette), had gelato at Antica Gelateria Gentile, window shopped along Via Sparano da Bari (the main shopping street in Bari) and wandered through Giardini di Plaza Umberto I. 

And that’s a wrap on our time in Puglia (plus Matera)! It was honestly one of our favorite trips to date, and I can definitely see us coming back. We stuffed our faces with way too much pasta, had gelato every single day (whoops), took plenty of dips in the sparkling sea, saw half a dozen Italian towns, neither of us got drastically sunburned, and we only got one parking ticket! 

Are you planning a Puglia road trip?! Come soon – I’d say most of our trip was 85% Italian tourists or so, BUT I see that changing sooner than later. Such a special place.



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A Festive London Christmas Itinerary: 3 Days in London in December https://apassionandapassport.com/london-christmas-itinerary/ https://apassionandapassport.com/london-christmas-itinerary/#respond Wed, 09 Oct 2024 06:50:02 +0000 https://apassionandapassport.com/?p=31522 Looking for a 3 day London Christmas itinerary? Here’s how to plan the perfect London Christmas trip, filled with dazzling displays, iconic Christmas lights, and delicious markets!  Everything you need to know to plan your Christmas in London itinerary, coming right up! London is truly one of the most magical places in the world toContinue Reading

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Looking for a 3 day London Christmas itinerary? Here’s how to plan the perfect London Christmas trip, filled with dazzling displays, iconic Christmas lights, and delicious markets!  Everything you need to know to plan your Christmas in London itinerary, coming right up!

London is truly one of the most magical places in the world to embrace the festive spirit. The whole city just sparkles, and it’s honestly impossible not to have an amazing time. After our own unforgettable trip, I felt inspired to create this detailed 3 day London Christmas itinerary so you can enjoy it just as much as we did! I spent HOURS researching the best things to do in London at Christmas, so I really hope it helps you plan your trip. 

Honestly, London at Christmas is unlike any other city I’ve visited for the holidays. The whole place buzzes with excitement – think ice skating at Somerset House, savoring rich hot chocolates, marveling at stunning window displays, and exploring festive pop-ups. And let’s not forget the holiday afternoon teas and yule log cakes!

After several visits (mostly in summer), I can confidently say that London in December has become my favorite time of year to visit. No one in the U.S. does Christmas quite like London does – well, maybe New York comes close, but even that’s a stretch.

During our 2.5-week winter Euro trip – starting with the famous Christmas markets in Prague, then picturesque Cesky Krumlov, snowy Hallstatt, charming Bruges, and finally landing in London – it was the British capital that stole my heart. Sure, the markets might not have matched those in the Czech Republic, and we missed the speculoos chocolates from Belgium, but wow, does this city go all out.

All this to say that we loved Christmas in London so much that we’re planning another trip back this year for the holidays, haha. Normally, I’m not one to revisit places so soon, but London at Christmas is calling me back!

If you’re counting down the days until the holiday season in London, I totally get it! I’m already itching to head back for all the festive vibes (and of course, more afternoon teas – because why not?). With this London Christmas itinerary, you’ll have all the info you need to plan your very own festive trip! Honestly, there’s no better place to celebrate than the UK capital!

3 Day London Christmas Itinerary Logistics

Christmas in London itinerary At-A-Glance

  • Day 1: Soho and Mayfair
  • Day 2: Belgravia and Covent Garden
  • Day 3: City of London and South Bank

How to get to London for Christmas

Excited for your 3 day Christmas in London itinerary? Great news – the city is super accessible! You’ve got plenty of options, whether you prefer flying, taking the train, or driving.

Flying to London

London is oh so easy to reach via plane! It boasts Heathrow International Airport (a huge hub for a whole slew of airlines), and easily connects the US and other parts of Europe. 

And it’s honestly not as far as you may think! When we lived in NYC, it took about the same amount of time to get to London as it did to California (totally wish we took advantage of this more!).

From NYC, expect the flight to take approximately 7 hours nonstop. From the West Coast, like San Francisco and Los Angeles, the flight will expectedly be longer, at roughly 10 hours nonstop.

And the moment we stepped off the plane into Heathrow Airport I felt the Christmas spirit already – there were even Christmas trees at the gates!

Psst – if Heathrow doesn’t fit into your plans, there’s 4 other main airports to choose from — absolutely wild!

  • Gatwick (LGW): ~30 miles south of Central London; mainly serves international flights, including many low-cost carriers
  • Stansted (STN): ~40 miles northeast of Central London; a smaller airport popular for low-cost airlines, especially for flights within Europe
  • Luton (LTN): ~35 miles north of Central London; a smaller airport that serves many low-cost carriers and some charter flights
  • London City Airport (LCY): ~6 miles east of Central London, near Canary Wharf; primarily serves business travelers and short-haul flights, including some international routes

Since we were coming from San Francisco, we flew into London Heathrow International then opted to take the Piccadilly Line to our hotel near Mayfair. If you’re coming from the States, you’ll probably fly into either Heathrow or Gatwick.

Getting to London from the Airport

Depending where you fly into, you’ll of course need to get into the city center to start your Christmas in London itinerary. 

  • From Heathrow: Take the Heathrow Express train to Paddington (only 15 minutes but pretty expensive) or the London Underground (Piccadilly Line) to Central London.
  • From Gatwick: The Gatwick Express goes straight to Victoria Station or cheaper trains to various central locations.
  • From Stansted: The Stansted Express takes you directly to Liverpool Street Station in about 45 minutes.
  • From Luton: There are shuttle buses to Luton Airport Parkway, where you can catch a train to St Pancras (about 30-40 minutes total)
  • From London City Airport: It’s well-connected via the Docklands Light Railway (DLR) to central stations (Underground and overground trains)

Taking the Train to London 

If you’re already in Europe, consider taking the train! It’s a convenient and efficient way to travel, especially if you’re coming from other parts of the UK or from nearby countries. Major train stations include Paddington (from the west), King’s Cross/St. Pancras (from the north/servicing Eurostar), and Liverpool Street (from the east).

We love taking the Eurostar, a high-speed train service that connects London with major cities in France and Belgium, including Paris, Brussels, and Lille. It’s pretty expensive compared to other trains, so be sure to include the cost into your travel budget! And book early – you’ll find cheaper rates this way.

You can get from Paris to London in ~2 hours and 15 minutes, or from Brussels to London in ~2 hours! Quick and easy!

Note – if you end up at King’s Cross/St. Pancras for any reason (we took the Eurostar to get to Bruges later on in our trip), you’ll be able to see the famous Christmas tree made entirely of books in the station! Super unique and one of my favorites in the city!

How to Get Around on your London Christmas Itinerary

Getting around London is easy and convenient – there’s an extensive public transport network and neighborhoods are super walkable! It’s just as good as the subway in NYC and dare I say public transit in Tokyo?!

Psst → I don’t recommend renting a car in London. The public transport is too good, and city driving and parking is just too much of a hassle to make a car worth the expense.

Walking

London is a walking city (yes, even when it rains, lol). I’ve designed this Christmas in London itinerary by neighborhood – meaning there’s lots of attractions within walking distance to each other. But don’t let that fool you; we still walked about 25k steps a day! An important reason to wear comfortable boots during your trip.

London Underground (The Tube) 

If you’ve done any research (or watched any English movies), I’m sure you’ve heard of The Tube before. Just like NYC’s subway, The Tube is London’s Underground rail network, and it’s a great way to travel to, from, and around central London. It’s the quickest way to get around, and we used it tons to get all over London fast and efficiently! 

There’s 11 lines covering most of the city, divided into 9 zones. But if you’re just staying within Central London, you’ll most likely only need Zone 1, so don’t worry about the others! As you move further and further away from the city, you’ll pass through Zones 2-9.

I used to recommend grabbing an Oyster Card when you first arrived in London, but now public transit uses a contactless payment system. Meaning you can just tap your phone or credit card instead! 

Tip: Avoid rush hours (7:30–9:30 AM and 5:00–7:00 PM) if possible – it’s crazy crowded during these times! 

By Bus

London has an extensive bus network that complements The Tube. And plus, buses are a great way to see the city above ground (which is great for this London Christmas itinerary since the whole city is practically covered in festive lights!). Google Maps makes it super easy to find a bus and know when to get off; just know buses have a flat fare regardless of distance.

The downside is you may get gridlocked (meaning tons of traffic in all directions – and yes, it happens). If so, just hop off and Google the nearest tube. But go on a double decker at least once – it’s a true London experience!

Taxis and Rideshares

Rideshare apps like Uber operate in London, and there’s also the iconic black cabs that can be hailed on the street (or booked via apps). BUT just remember there’ll undoubtedly be tons of traffic, so you may as well just take The Tube anyways…

Where to Stay During your 3 Day London Christmas Itinerary

For this London Christmas itinerary, I highly recommend staying in either Soho, Mayfair, or Covent Garden

These neighborhoods are conveniently located near many of the best Christmas sights, and you’ll be right in the heart of the festive action. The city is huge, so it’s important to be strategic about where you book accommodation.

Most hotels are pretty pricey (a Christmas trip to London is super popular after all), so just be prepared to book early and spend a pretty penny, I mean pound, haha. If you’re on a budget, consider hotels further from the city center and taking the tube. You’ll need to factor in some additional transit time though, since most of these attractions are clustered in the central areas.

London’s got a seriously impressive lineup of hotels, but here’s a few that really nail that festive vibe:

  • The Ritz London: A true symbol of opulence! The Ritz goes all out for Christmas with stunning decor and extraordinary festive dining experiences (like a lavish five-course Christmas Day lunch).
  • Covent Garden Hotel: Nestled right in the heart of the action, this hotel is perfect for immersing yourself in the magical atmosphere of holiday markets and dazzling lights. You’ll be steps away from some of the best festive events!
  • Claridge’s: An absolute Mayfair classic, famous for its luxurious Christmas decorations and festive afternoon teas! 
  • Treehouse Hotel: We kicked off our trip here, and wow, what an experience! With its cozy ambiance and whimsical design, the Treehouse Hotel captures the magic of Christmas perfectly. The rooftop views are great, and oh wow that restaurant – oh so festive and fun! And they even had a DIY candy bar – the key to my heart!
  • The Savoy: Wow those decorations are stunning! Although we couldn’t snag a reservation for afternoon tea (pro tip: book early!) and staying here wasn’t an option (too pricey for us), we still ventured over to admire the hotel’s lavish decor. The whole place was decked out and I swear I took about 100 photos, haha.
  • The Dorchester Hotel: If money is no object, stay here! And if it’s way out of your budget (like it was ours, haha), definitely check out the lobby – they go all out every year. 

Weather during Christmas in London

Overall, winter weather in London is pretty mild (compared to other spots in Europe in winter), but definitely be prepared for some rain – this is the British capital we’re talking about! The earlier in the season the warmer it’ll be, but it never gets insanely freezing like it does in Hallstatt or The Swiss Alps (at least during the day). 

The best time to visit is late November once all the decorations and pop ups are up, but it’s not freezing cold yet and the massive crowds haven’t arrived. And no matter when you visit, plan a mixture of inside and outside activities.

Late November

London’s weather in late November is typically cool, with average daytime temperatures around 8-10°C (46-50°F). Doesn’t seem that chilly, but evenings can drop to around 4-5°C (39-41°F), so it’ll feel nice and crisp when you’re out exploring the Christmas lights after dark. 

Rain is common (you could’ve told me that, haha), so definitely pack a travel umbrella or rain jacket for wandering through the markets and admiring the Christmas displays.

December

December in London brings true winter vibes, with temperatures averaging between 5-8°C (41-46°F) during the day and dipping to 2-4°C (36-39°F) at night. The Christmas lights add a warm glow to the city, but expect chilly air, especially once the sun sets. 

Unfortunately snow is rare in December (or anytime during winter in London actually, – it’s usually too warm for anything but light flurries), but there’s often a light drizzle or mist.

For reference, we planned our London Christmas itinerary for late December, and got lucky with higher-than average temps and little-to-no rain! I was hot in my winter jacket at times, and had to carry it around. Just be prepared for temperamental temps and wear layers. 

January

January tends to be the coldest month in London, with daytime temperatures around 3-7°C (37-45°F). Nights are understandably colder, with the mercury often dropping to 1-3°C (33-37°F). 

While the Christmas lights start to come down after New Year’s, the winter sales are in full swing, and there’s still plenty of festive atmosphere left. You may catch a frosty morning, but snow is still infrequent. And when it does snow, it doesn’t stay on the ground too long – it typically melts away very quickly!

Can I expect snow during this London Christmas itinerary? 

Don’t hold your breath… It hardly snows during December in London. Why? Mostly because the city is just too warm – the city generates tons of heat from all the buildings and cars. And when it does get cold enough, it melts quickly (sometimes before the snow can even settle). 

Psst – London is usually a few degrees warmer than the surrounding countryside outside the city. Meaning, if you wanna see snow, you’ll have a greater chance over there (or just go to Hallstatt, Switzerland, or Tromso where you’re practically guaranteed some of the white stuff!).

And if you get to experience snow at Christmas in London, you’re extremely lucky! The last time there’s been a truly white Christmas was back in 1999 – over 20 years ago. Blame global warming…

If you’re realllyyyy craving some snow – head over to Covent Garden! It “snows” every hour on the hour from noon to 7pm right by the massive Christmas tree! 

Additional London Christmas Itinerary Facts

  • Currency: The ‘pound’ or GBP (Great British Pound) is the national currency of the U.K, written as £. Lucky for us visiting, the pound has gone down significantly over the years. But it’s still an expensive place to visit (just not as daunting as it was 10+ years ago). Many businesses don’t accept cash anymore (even to pay for the bathrooms!), so plan to use your credit card for the majority of your trip. And set up Apple Pay as it’s literally everywhere!
  • Prepare for the crowds: It’s no surprise – Christmas is peak season in London. You’ll need to book restaurant reservations early (spontaneous walk-ins are rare), and hotel rooms fill up fast. Pro tip: If you’re looking for fewer crowds, come during the quieter days in late November or early December (weekdays are usually better). The closer it gets to Christmas the more crowded it’s gonna be. 
  • Public transport is your best friend: Forget about driving in London – it’s a logistical nightmare. Luckily, you can easily tap your contactless card on public transportation, so no need to grab an Oyster Card. Just hop on the Tube and you’re set!
  • The markets aren’t as magical as you’d think: Sure, there’s mince pies, gourmet cheese toasties, and handcrafted trinkets. But if you’re expecting epic, over-the-top magical Christmas markets, you’re gonna be disappointed. They’ve got nothing on markets in other European countries (Austria! Germany! France!). You don’t go to London for the markets – you go for the overall festive energy and holiday decorations around the city – the markets are just an added bonus.  
  • Expect to splurge on hotels: Accommodation in central London during Christmas is pricey – no surprise there. If you want to be near all the action (like Soho, Mayfair, or Covent Garden), make sure to book early (a few months in advance). The festive atmosphere comes at a premium, but it’s worth every penny. If you wanna save some money, stay during the week if possible. Weekends can be double the price.
  • Be strategic with your London Christmas itinerary: Planning is key to making the most of London at Christmas. I like to map out my must-see spots (Google Maps is honestly my best friend, haha) and plan meals and activities nearby to save time. With so much to see in London in December, it’s not the time to wing it! And that’s where my 3 day London Christmas itinerary comes in!
  • Short days, long nights: With sunrise around 8am and sunset around 4pm, it’s true – daylight hours are limited during London at Christmas. But honestly? We don’t typically mind this as we get more time to soak up all the glittering lights and then get to bed early, haha (which is always necessary after walking 25k steps in a day!). I also suggest starting each day of this London Christmas itinerary on the earlier side, as there’ll be fewer crowds, especially if you’re visiting in the crazy days right before/after Christmas.

What to Pack for Christmas in London 

  • Warm Winter Coat: For those frigid winter days, you’ll really wanna invest in an insulated parka. I’ve got my eye on this North Face parka (I currently wear one from 10+ years ago – it’s about time for a new jacket). Looking for one a bit less expensive? This one’s crazy popular on social media, and with the length and sherpa-lined hood, I can totally see why. However note that it’s only water resistant, not waterproof, so not the best choice for those inevitable rainy London days.
  • Packable Puffer Jacket: I wear this one – it’s lightweight and water resistant, plus comes in a bunch of fun colors and the pockets are super deep (perfect for storing your phone). It packs down to almost nothing in the little included pouch – perfect for travel! 
  • Fleece Zip-Up: On those absolutely frigid days when you need a little something between your sweater and warm winter coat, a fleece zip-up (like this Columbia full-zip) will come in handy. Or if it’s unseasonably warm this can take the place of your winter jacket! There’s a reason it’s got 45k positive reviews!
  • Base Layers: I’ve been wearing heat tech long sleeve tees ever since I went to Banff in winter a few years back, and they’ve saved me from those frigid temps! They’re super lightweight and perfect to wear under a sweater, and leave you feeling dry and warm without the bulk!
  • Fleece-lined leggings: I used to layer two pairs of regular leggings, but now that fleece-lined leggings are a thing, I only wear those! They’re just as comfy as regular leggings, but keep your legs staying warm and toasty. I’ve worn these pairs a few times and they’ve been great, and come in a bunch of fun colors! If you’re looking for something to wear under jeans or snow pants instead, these come highly recommended (although too thin to wear on their own; more like a base layer).
  • Chapstick: Cold and dry air make your lips susceptible to chapping super easily. Ugh, the worst! I’m low-key obsessed with this cocoa butter swivel stick – it makes your lips so super soft and it smells a tad like chocolate! My favorite! It also works wonders on dry, chapped skin. You’ll wanna reapply multiple times throughout the day.
  • Power Bank: Batteries die faster in the cold, so come prepared with a power bank to recharge your stuff on the go. This compact power bank gives up to 10 full charges! I always throw this tiny one in my bag also, just in case, as a backup. My phone is my life-line (especially when traveling solo), so I like to be extra prepared!
  • Beanies: I’ve got this fleece-lined beanie (pom pom included) in a few colors, and always bring a thick headband along too for when I want to put my hair up. 
  • Warm Gloves: I like to take a few pairs of gloves with me – loving these wool-blend mittens and this pair that’s super lightweight and waterproof (good enough to go skiing in). Trust me, cheapie cotton gloves just ain’t good enough.
  • Scarves: I tend to bring a few, since they’re so easy to accessorize with! This blanket scarf is one of my faves (a great neutral option that matches everything), and chunky-knit infinity scarves are oh so cozy!
  • Waterproof Snow Boots: Even though it hardly snows during Christmas in London, I still recommend a comfy waterproof boot! Gotta keep your feet warm and dry and comfy on the streets; especially since you’ll probably be walking at least 15k steps a day! And THESE Sorel waterproof boots are easily the best ones out there – they’re 100% waterproof, seam-sealed, and actually look pretty cute (unlike most snow boots out there). I practically lived in them 2 weeks straight and got zero blisters! Leave the heeled boots at home – you’ll want flat boots for max comfort!
  • Polarized sunglasses: Yes, it’s sunny sometimes in London in December – I’ve been wearing these exact ones for years and I just love ‘em.
  • Travel umbrella: We all know rain is a thing in London, so come prepared with a small umbrella that you can easily pack in your day bag.
  • Dressier outfits: You’ll want a dressy outfit or two for festive dinners or shows – bring along a Christmas sweater (or jumper as they say in London!) for some extra cheer!

My Festive London Christmas Itinerary

A few notes about this 3 day itinerary:

  • This London itinerary assumes you have 3 full days in the city. Meaning you’ve arrived the day/night before, and are ready to start exploring the next morning.
  • In order to see and do (and eat!) a lot, there’s a lot of neighborhood hopping. Some neighborhoods you can easily walk between, while others you’ll need to hop on the tube for. You can totally rearrange this itinerary, but I grouped together neighborhoods and attractions by their proximity.
  • This London Christmas itinerary hits the ground running. Face it – London is beyond HUGE and there’s TONS to do for the festive holiday season. It’s packed and very go-go-go. If you’d rather a more relaxed trip, skip a few things or add on an extra day.
  • It primarily focuses on Christmas and holiday-themed activities. If you’re looking to include all the typical tourist attractions as well, you’ll 100% need to stay a few extra days. This Christmas London itinerary misses top attractions like Buckingham Palace, Notting Hill, Churchill War Rooms, and Tower of London – there’s just too much to include.
  • You’ll need to make restaurant reservations well in advance – meaning if you’re booking kinda late and only a few time slots are available, you’ll probably need to rearrange bits and pieces of this Christmas in London itinerary to make room for your reservations.

So let’s get to it! The perfect Christmas in London itinerary coming right up!

London Christmas Itinerary Day 1: Mayfair and Soho

Stop 1: Spend the morning/early afternoon in Mayfair 

Mayfair is one of the most festive neighborhoods in London, making it a great starting point for your London Christmas itinerary. This area boasts stunning holiday decorations like the extravagant luxury store displays on Bond Street to the beautiful angels illuminating Regent Street and the quirky vibes of Carnaby Street. You’ll also find spectacular department store windows and fancy, festive AF hotels.

The city is gloriously decked out for Christmas, and Mayfair is no exception.

I recommend starting the morning on the earlier side as this area can get quite crowded (understandably). We spent HOURS here and couldn’t get enough of all the seasonal sparkle.

Must-See Streets

  • Bond Street and New Bond Street: A luxury shopping haven with brands like Cartier, Tiffany & Co., and Chanel. My favorite place to snap a photo is across from Cartier by the iconic red phone booth!
  • Regent Street: Famous for its stunning Christmas angels, this street is perfect for holiday shopping at flagship stores like Hamleys and Liberty.
  • Carnaby Street: Known for its unique and vibrant decorations, like the Carnaby Universe I saw last year (with planets flying overhead)
  • Burlington Arcade: A historic arcade featuring charming boutiques under an elegant glass roof (perfect when you wanna warm up)
  • Royal Arcade: A victorian era shopping arcade completed in 1880 with beautiful architecture and unique shops
  • South Molton Street: A lovely pedestrian street filled with high-street brands and independent boutiques

Breakfast Options

  • Ralph’s Coffee: Located in front of Cartier on Old Bond Street, this is one of the most festive coffee shops around. We waited on a long line, but it was well worth it for some delicious coffee and hot chocolate.
  • Buns from Home: One of my favorite bakeries in London! If you prefer a quicker option, check out one of their two nearby locations for some tasty baked goods. I indulged in a hand rolled cinnamon bun later on one day, and damn was it legendary (although maybe a tad too sweet, haha).

Don’t Miss

  • St. Christopher’s Place: A charming area filled with shops and eateries.
  • Department Stores: Visit Selfridges, Fortnum & Mason, and Liberty London for their stunning holiday displays.
  • Fancy Hotels: Check out The Dorchester, The Connaught, and The Ritz London for their festive decor.

Additional Highlights

  • Annabel’s: This swanky private members’ club in Berkeley Square dazzles with extravagant holiday displays. While only members can enter, anyone can admire its stunning exterior. Last season (2023), they featured a massive hot air balloon surrounded by twinkling stars. Just a heads-up: it’s on a busy road, so getting the perfect photo might be tricky!
  • KOYN: Known for its incredible sushi and izakaya dishes, KOYN also goes all out for the holidays with adorable festive decor, including a vintage car stacked with Christmas presents and topped with a tree – definitely one of my favorite photo spots on this Christmas in London itinerary!

Tip: Plot these spots on your map to avoid wandering around aimlessly in the cold. Some of these locations, like KOYN and Annabel’s, are on side streets, so a little planning will save you time.

Stop 2: Late Lunch at Sketch 

Sketch is one of the most popular restaurants in all of London (year round), and is even more festive for the holidays! Making it a great meal for your Christmas in London itinerary! 

Pricey, posh, and perfectly photogenic, especially during the Christmas season. Even the iconic egg-shaped bathroom stalls that we’ve all seen were decorated for Christmas as well! It’s the perfect place to go if you’re feeling fancy and festive. Stepping into this wintry wonderland the moment we walked through the doors was nothing short of magical – talk about a first impression!

The restaurant features four distinct rooms, each with its own avant-garde decor that’s spectacularly over-the-top. We had lunch in the Glade Room (we made reservations a few weeks in advance and there was even limited availability then), which was absolutely enchanting and filled with twinkling fairy lights and lush green garlands, complete with a ballerina dancing around for a bit! 

If you wanna enjoy afternoon tea in The Gallery, be sure to book SUPER early – it’s beyond popular. It’s definitely a pretty penny (one of the priciest afternoon teas in London), but the food is fantastic, the atmosphere is superb, and it’s insanely Instagrammable – especially during Christmas in London.

Psst – if you’re looking for the iconic plush pink room, you sadly won’t find it anymore! They’ve revamped it into a cheerful yellow, and it’s more vibrant than ever (although I was definitely missing the pink!).

Stop 3 (Optional): Westminster

If you’re new to London, a visit to Westminster is a must! This area is home to some of the city’s most iconic attractions, making it a great addition to your London Christmas itinerary. You can easily head to this area by public transit from Mayfair by getting off at Westminster Abbey (Stop X).

Must-See Attractions:

  • Buckingham Palace: While you can’t enter the palace during Christmas (tours are available from June to September), you can still admire the stunning exterior and stroll through the surrounding gardens. If you’re there earlier in the day, don’t miss the Changing of the Guard ceremony at 10 AM – it’s a quintessential London experience.
  • Westminster Abbey: This UNESCO World Heritage site is not only breathtaking but also steeped in history. It’s the venue for royal ceremonies, including weddings and coronations. While you can’t take photos inside, the stunning architecture and intricate details make it worth the visit. Be sure to check the opening hours, as they can vary, especially during the holiday season.
  • Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament: Just a short walk away, you can snap classic photos of the iconic clock tower, now known as the Elizabeth Tower, alongside the impressive Houses of Parliament. The sight is especially beautiful when lit up at night.
  • Churchill War Rooms: Dive into history at this fascinating museum dedicated to Winston Churchill and the British government’s efforts during WWII. The underground war rooms have been preserved as they were during the war, offering a unique glimpse into a pivotal time in history.
  • Tate Britain: If you’re an art lover, don’t miss Tate Britain, home to an extensive collection of British art from 1500 to the present. The museum often has special exhibitions, so check what’s going on during your visit.

Tip: Westminster can be quite busy, so come with this in mind. The festive decorations around the area add extra charm during the holiday season, making it a perfect stop on your London Christmas itinerary!

Stop 4: Dukes (in Mayfair Hotel)

Time for martinis! Head over to Dukes, a classic hotel bar renowned for its expertly crafted tableside cocktails! If you wanna snag a table, be sure to arrive about 20 minutes before they open – it fills up quickly, especially during the festive season. The first time we went we arrived an hour after opening and were told we mayyyyy be able to sit in a few hours, haha.

We love the upscale (yet cozy!) ambiance, and it’s a great place to unwind after all that walking during the day. This is my husband’s favorite place in the entire city for drinks, so you should definitely make a stop here on your Christmas in London itinerary. 

Stop 5: Hyde Park Winter Wonderland 

Psst – you can either go see the Christmas lights once again at night, wander around Hyde Park Winter Wonderland, or do both! Entirely up to you! If you are gonna head to Hyde Park, I’d go in late afternoon (right after drinks at Dukes) as it gets extremely busy as the night goes on. 

Hyde Park Winter Wonderland is a total Christmas extravaganza – London’s biggest and most famous festive spot, and it’s not just a market, it’s a whole experience.

Picture traditional wooden chalets selling gifts, bratwurst, churros, mulled wine, and more. Add to that a Bavarian Village, carnival rides, the UK’s largest outdoor ice skating rink, and a whole ice sculpture exhibition, and you’ve got one epic holiday adventure. You can even grab a drink at the ice bar, where everything (yup, everything) is made of ice.

And don’t forget, you’ll need to buy a ticket to enter Winter Wonderland (only a few pounds), with extra fees for things like ice skating, the ice bar, and other attractions. But trust me, it’s worth it – we already have our tickets for this coming year!

Stop 6: Christmas Lights DIY Walking Tour

The last stop on the first day of this London Christmas itinerary – back to the iconic lights it is! I know you already went here in the morning, but admiring the Christmas lights after dark is SUCH a different experience since they’ll be all illuminated and sparkly! 

Note that most lights turn on around 3-4pm, and don’t shut off until ~11pm. Since the sun sets around 4pm or so (yes, this early!), there’s plenty of time to see them all lit up!

Pretty much everything sparkles, so you can honestly just wander around and get lost in the magical atmosphere. But if you don’t wanna miss anything, be sure to plot these streets on your map! I was blown away by all the dazzling displays – no one does Christmas quite like London, so make sure to soak it all in!

If you’re looking for a late-night cocktail, head on over to Mr. Fogg’s Residence, a classy cocktail bar styled circa 1873!

Here are some of the highlights you’ll see on a DIY Christmas lights walking tour:

  • Oxford Street: sustainable shining stars brightening up the skies above the famous street
  • New and Old Bond Street: Cartier always has something amazing, like the glimmering hot air balloon last year!
  • Fortnum and Mason: admire the iconic annual advent calendar illuminating the street in red
  • Regent Street: check out the return of the famous glimmering Regent Street Angels (yes, I’m pretty sure they’re coming back!)
  • South Molton Street: walk through the iconic arch illuminating the street
  • Carnaby Street: one of the capital’s coolest areas, with quirky installations and/or immersive light shows every year
  • Ever After Garden: visit Grosvenor Square to see 25,000 illuminated white roses dedicated to lost friends and loved ones 

OR make your lives super easy and sign up for a Christmas lights tour! If you don’t wanna subject yourself to the cold, check out this Open Top Christmas Lights Bus Tour or this similar one (since it’s bound to sell out around the holidays). 

You can even hop on a Christmas lights bike tour if that’s your thing or download a self-guided audio walking tour if you prefer that instead. Traveling with a few friends/family? You can even go for a private tour in an iconic black cab! So many options!

London Christmas Itinerary Day 2: Belgravia/Knightsbridge and Covent Garden

Stop 1: Peggy Porschen Belgravia

Start Day 2 with a little something sweet at Peggy Porschen! Hey, it’s almost Christmas after all (and a little cupcake never hurt anyone). I don’t always recommend filling up on sugar this early in the AM, but hey, when in London, right? You can always order something savory as well if sweet breakfasts aren’t really your thing.

If you’re a sucker for super cute holiday cupcakes, don’t miss it! I honestly thought it’d just be a cute photo op, but OMFG my cupcake was orgasmic, haha. This place is practically an iconic London landmark – all decked out in peony pink no less. Perfect for pretty pictures and sipping on a warm drink in the cozy tea room. They change out the front decor every season, and of course Christmas is just sensational.

And if you’re in the mood for something extra special, you can even enjoy afternoon tea at the Parlor.

Stop 2: Wander Belgravia a Bit

I absolutely loved strolling through Belgravia before/after our delicious feast of festive cupcakes. It’s one of the prettiest (and wealthiest) neighborhoods in London and seriously feels like a scene out of Love Actually. The decor isn’t as wow and over-the-top as the streets in Mayfair/Soho, but super classy and chic. 

We wandered down Elizabeth Street, grabbed festive cupcakes at Peggy Porschen (as noted before!), and took in all the chic Christmas vibes (grand Georgian townhouses and beautifully adorned white stucco facades included). Definitely hit up Dominique Ansel Bakery for cronuts and the stunning Moyses Stevens flower shop while you’re there!

But my #1 spot in Belgravia? Easily Neill Strain Floral Couture! This is one of the most over-the-top decorated shops, and it’d be a shame to miss it! It honestly feels like an art installation, haha.

I fell in love with the decorations last December (all decked out with vibrant baubles and a massive red bow) – perfect for photos! It’s technically a flower shop, but they go all out for the holidays. If you’re gonna go slightly outta the way for some decorations, make it this one.

Psst – there’s a few Neill Strain Floral Couture’s around the city, but the Belgravia location is known to be the most extravagant!

Stop 3: Shopping and Lunch at Harrods (or nearby)

Harrods is a Christmas classic, and I make it a point to visit every time I’m in London (we love their fish and chips). Plus, it’s always fun to gawk at the bougie designer goods, haha. 

The store usually dazzles with golden lights and wreaths, but when we visited, they skipped the exterior decorations – total bummer! At least the purple Valentino Christmas tree was a highlight.

Inside, there’s fancy ornaments, gold accents, and a dedicated Christmas department full of luxury decorations. And whatever you do, don’t miss The Food Hall – there’s literally everything you can think of here (mince pies to gourmet chocolates and everything in between). Here’s hoping they bring back the exterior lights next season!

If you’re not in the mood for fish and chips or are overwhelmed by the food hall (I always am!), consider lunch at a festive restaurant nearby. The Ivy Chelsea Garden and Daphne’s are both popular options, so be sure to make reservations well in advance (I’m talking weeks/months).

  • The Ivy Chelsea Garden: Come for the (good quality) food, stay for the (over-the-top) decor! Known for its stunning decor and modern British menu, this location is housed in a beautiful Georgian building. Even if you can’t get a reservation, the facade is worth seeing!
  • Daphne’s: A classic London spot, especially magical during the holidays with its bauble-covered conservatory. While the food is standard and on the pricier side, the ambiance is the real draw. If you go, try to snag a table by the fireplace for a cozy experience. Just a heads-up – it’s popular, so book ahead!

Stop 4: Covent Garden

After exploring Belgravia, head over to Covent Garden for the next few stops on this 3 day London Christmas itinerary. You’ll need to take The Tube since it’s not really walkable from Belgravia, especially in foul weather (cold, rainy London weather).

The second you get there, you’ll see what all the fuss is about, I promise! It’s easily one of my favorite Christmas displays in London, and every year they switch things up a bit, so you never really know what you’re gonna get – but it’s always festive and fabulous. I just LOVED the vintage Santa sleigh on display on the second floor of the Apple Market. So fun to take pics with!

Spend an hour or so wandering the stalls of the Apple Market, stopping by the Jubilee Market Hall, and checking out all the fun pop ups! There’s bars serving mulled wine and festive cocktails, the cutest gingerbread hut with lots of beers and ciders on tap, and even a ginormous tree.

Don’t miss the snow falling on the hour by the tree from 12 PM to 7 PM – it adds the perfect wintry touch! It’s beautiful, but just a quick heads up: it only lasts about a minute, so try to time your visit to avoid waiting around too long (there’s too many things to do on our London Christmas itinerary so you don’t wanna waste any time).

Nearby, grab a drink at Mr. Fogg’s Tavern or a festive hot chocolate at Whipped London (just FYI it was sickenly sweet, haha). Or have a late lunch at Clos Maggiore here instead of earlier in Belgravia (just know you’ll need a reservation here as well!).

Stop 5: Stop by The Savoy

Obsessed with over-the-top decorations like I am? Make sure to head over to The Savoy for a sneak peek of their spectacular Christmas displays. 

And wow, those decorations are stunning! Although we couldn’t snag a reservation for afternoon tea (pro tip: book early!), we still ventured over to admire the hotel’s lavish decor. The highlight was the vintage steam train where you can sip sparkling champagne in one of its ornate carriages – how cool is that?! And the mountain of presents spilling out of the gorgeous gift-wrapped display. So classy and fun at the same time.

Stop 6: Ice skating at Somerset House

London has a whole slew of ice rinks to check out, so lace up your skates and get out onto the ice! I’m kinda a clutz on skates (ask my friends…), so I didn’t do any skating myself. BUT I’m making it my mission to get on the ice next season – since we’re actually headed back to London for Christmas! 

And one of the best rinks in the city? Somerset House! This iconic rink is set in a stunning 18th-century courtyard, complete with a massive Christmas tree that adds to the festive atmosphere. While we didn’t skate ourselves, it was a blast watching everyone glide around the rink, surrounded by all the twinkling lights. And of course sipped a cocktail at the Moët & Chandon Skate Lounge!

More coordinated than I am? Book a skating session in advance – sessions typically run for about 45 minutes, and it’s best to reserve your tickets online to avoid disappointment, especially during peak times (weekends and the days leading up to Christmas).

Stop 7: Neal’s Yard and Seven Dials Market

Cut back through the market stalls at Covent Garden and head to Seven Dials Market. There’s plenty of independent food vendors here (everything from holiday treats to global flavors), so it’s a great place for a snack! We were too stuffed from lunch to try anything, but honestly, I came for the decor anyway, haha. Pro tip: grab a mulled wine or hot chocolate while you wander!

Plus, it’s indoors, so perfect if you wanna escape the chilly temps outside.

After that, take a short stroll through Neal’s Yard – a colorful alleyway that really shines with twinkling decorations. We went a tad too early and it was still light out, but it still had a magical feel. Expect to find unique, independent cafes, bars, and shops lining the streets. Honestly, it takes all of 5 minutes to walk through, so it’s worth popping in for a quick visit and some festive photos!

Stop 8: Dinner at Dishoom

Not the least bit Christmassy (haha), but one of my all-time fave restaurants in London! I’m begging you to check it out if you’re a fan of Indian food! Who doesn’t love a little comfort food when it’s chilly out?! We end up here every single time we’re in the city, and it hasn’t disappointed yet. 

Their menu is loaded with must-try dishes, like the legendary chicken tikka (we get this every time!), rich, aromatic biryanis, and the fluffiest naan you’ll ever have. We also love the pav bhaji and veggie samosas. It’s super popular, so you might have to wait for a table (but hey, they’ve got locations all over the city, so there’s usually less of a wait at each now than in the past).

Stop 9: See a Christmas Show! 

This wouldn’t be a proper Christmas in London itinerary without diving into the theatre scene! 

The city is absolutely renowned for its performances, and come December, it’s bursting with festive shows. From elegant ballets to classic tales with seasonal twists and captivating orchestras, there’s something for everyone. You’ve got holiday classics like The Nutcracker at the Royal Opera House and A Christmas Carol at the Old Vic, plus all those long-running West End musicals that are always a hit.

I caught Elf! on Broadway at the Dominion Theatre, and loved this take on the beloved Will Ferrell film. You really can’t go wrong!

As with most popular events on this London Christmas itinerary, you’ll wanna snag your tickets well in advance. London loves its theatre and seats fill up fast, especially during the festive season!

London Christmas Itinerary Day 3: City of London and South Bank

After two days of running around (quite literally, we managed about 25k steps each day!), this 3rd and final day of my London Christmas itinerary is a bit more relaxed thankfully! 

If you’ve never been, you can squeeze in a short visit to Shoreditch in the afternoon if you wanna bulk the day up. We love walking down Brick Lane, getting salt beef bagels at Beigel Bake, seeing the graffiti on New Inn Broadway, and checking out a few art markets (Backyard Market, Old Spitalfields, and BOXPARK are all great).

Stop 1: Breakfast at Coppa Club Tower Bridge

Kick off Day 2 of your Christmas in London itinerary with breakfast at Coppa Club Tower Bridge – yes, this is where you can eat in one of their famous heated igloos! Super instagram-worthy with stunning views of Tower Bridge, and all decked out for the holidays.

I was super excited to visit but found out I was a few months too late for a reservation – these igloos are in high demand, with only nine available! If you manage to snag a spot, definitely let me know how it goes! I’ve heard that while it can get a bit hot and sticky inside, the festive decor and delicious holiday drinks make it totally worth it.

Pro tip: There’s a minimum spend of around £35 per person for lunch and dinner, but good news – there’s no minimum spend for breakfast! Which is one of the reasons I recommend coming for breakfast, haha.

Stop 2: Sky Garden (or The Garden at 120)

A visit to the Sky Garden is a highlight of any London Christmas itinerary! What is it exactly? A stunning public space with observation decks located on the 35th floor of the Walkie Talkie building (20 Fenchurch Street) with breathtaking panoramic views of the city. 

And of course for the Christmas season, it’s all decked out with decorations, trees, and lush greenery.

Sky Garden Details:

  • Reservations: Tickets are free (!!!) but must be reserved three weeks in advance. Given its popularity, securing your spot early is absolutely essential! You can’t go up without a ticket.
  • Opening Hours: The terrace is open daily from 10 AM to 6 PM on weekdays and 11 AM to 9 PM on weekends. You could visit for sunset, but to be honest, considering the time of year, there probably won’t be a sunset, haha. 

The Garden at 120 (Alternative Option): If you can’t get a reservation for Sky Garden, consider visiting The Garden at 120 instead! This is another spacious rooftop garden with a fantastic viewpoint, and hardly anyone knows about it (meaning its way less crowded) – and you don’t even need a reservation. The main negative – it’s not fully enclosed, so you’ll be out in the elements (cold, rain, wind, etc)!

Stop 3: Leadenhall Market

Once you’re done admiring the views from Sky Garden (or The Garden at 120), head over to Leadenhall Market (only a 3 minute walk away!). And trust me, this place is pure magic during the holidays! Not only is it a Harry Potter filming location, but its stunning Victorian architecture and twinkling lights will have you feeling like you’ve stepped straight into a cozy Christmas novel. 

The centerpiece? An impressive 8-foot Christmas tree, perfectly positioned under a star-covered atrium – perfect for capturing those holiday photos!

If you’re lucky enough to be around in mid-November, definitely don’t miss the annual tree-lighting ceremony – it’s a fun way to kick off the festive vibes. I found the decorations to be a bit low-key, but the rich red, green, and gold tones of the market are great for Christmassy shots regardless.

We unfortunately visited towards the tail end of the season so the market stalls were already closed and the tree lights were off, oh well.

Stop 4: Borough Market

Cross the London Bridge (you can either walk or take public transit), and head to Borough Market, another must-stop on your London Christmas itinerary. It’s a great place for a late lunch, just make sure you come hungry since there’s tons at this historic food market. 

A few of my favorites being Humble Crumble, donuts from Bread Ahead, and toasted cheese sandwiches at Kappacasein Dairy. With almost everything freshly made, you’ve really got your pick (there’s also paella, fresh pasta, oysters, fish n chips, etc – see, tons). 

Whatever you do, DO NOT MISS the legendary chocolate covered strawberries. Yes, they’re overly expensive at ~£8 a cup, but OMFG I’d eat them every day if I could.

If you get overwhelmed and wanna try all the things, consider signing up for a market tour! What’s better than a local foodie guiding you to top-rated vendors to try authentic, British cuisine?!

Stop 5: Tower Bridge/Winter by the River

Once you’re nice and full, head over to Winter by the River (previously Christmas by the River), near Tower Bridge! You’ll pass by The Shard, so be sure to look up! 

Winter by the River is a charming riverside market running along the South Bank, with stunning night views of the bridge and the Tower of London. 

You’ll find festive stalls selling snacks like nutella hot cocoa, chocolate covered marshmallows, Dutch style mini pancakes, and strawberry crepes. Plus a few savory options as well (but I bet you’ll be plenty full from Borough Market).

If you have time, head over to the Tower of London and/or take a river cruise!

Stop 6: Christmas in Leicester Square 

The last official stop on our 3 day London Christmas itinerary! If you’re staying over by Soho/Mayfair, you’ll need to head back this way anyways, so you may as well pop by the Leicester Square Market! Yes, another market, haha.

Leicester Square’s Christmas market may be small, but it’s cozy and bustling with festive cheer. Located right in the heart of London’s West End, it has some charming unique shops, beautifully decorated stalls, and of course, some delicious street food (DIY roasted marshmallows, anyone?). We also saw mini pancakes, waffles, and German sausages covered in molten raclette cheese – yummmm.

We went twice because, well, the cheese wheel pasta and hot cider were just that good. Definitely a cute spot to browse for some handcrafted jewelry, decorations, and gifts while getting into the holiday spirit.

Hope this helps you plan out the best 3 day Christmas in London itinerary! Are you headed to the UK for the holidays?!



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Best Things to do in London at Christmas (My Huge London in December Guide) https://apassionandapassport.com/best-things-to-do-in-london-at-christmas/ https://apassionandapassport.com/best-things-to-do-in-london-at-christmas/#respond Sat, 05 Oct 2024 07:18:08 +0000 https://apassionandapassport.com/?p=31385 Planning to visit London for Christmas?! That’s a fantastic idea! Keep reading for all my favorite things to do in London in December, including iconic Christmas lights, cozy markets, and festive ice rinks. Everything you need to know for the ultimate Christmas in London, coming right up! I swear, London at Christmas is like noContinue Reading

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Planning to visit London for Christmas?! That’s a fantastic idea! Keep reading for all my favorite things to do in London in December, including iconic Christmas lights, cozy markets, and festive ice rinks. Everything you need to know for the ultimate Christmas in London, coming right up!

I swear, London at Christmas is like no other city I’ve ever been to. The entire city buzzes with energy – there’s ice skating at Somerset House, indulging in decadent hot chocolates, gazing at dazzling window displays, and discovering festive pop-ups. And you can’t forget all the holiday afternoon teas and yule log cakes!

After a few visits to the city (mostly in summer), I have to say London in December is my new favorite. Nowhere in the States does Christmas quite like London does, except for mayyyybee New York, but even that’s pushing it.

I never considered myself a Christmas person until I went to London in December. And now? Call me crazy, but I’ve officially joined the festive fan club and can’t get enough of the twinkling lights and over-the-top decorations!

We loved Christmas in London so much that we’re actually planning another trip back there this year for the holidays, haha! I typically hate revisiting destinations (especially less than a year later), but London at Christmas is just something else. 

During our 2.5-week winter Euro trip (starting with the popular Christmas markets in Prague, followed by picturesque Cesky Krumlov, snowy Hallstatt, charming Bruges, and finally arriving in London), it was the British capital that truly captured my heart. Sure, the markets may not have rivaled those in The Czech Republic and we missed the speculoos chocolates from Belgium, but boy oh boy does the city go all out.

If you’re counting down the days until Christmas in London, I don’t blame you! I cannot wait to head back to the city for all its festive magic (and to indulge in more afternoon teas – because who’s kidding, haha). ‘Tis the season to be jolly, and there’s no better place to soak in the magic than the UK capital!

Christmas in London Logistics

When is Christmas in London

Sounds like a silly question, but hear me out! Obviously the actual holiday of Christmas is celebrated on Christmas Day, but the festivities span from early November all the way until the very beginning of January! Most things to do in London for Christmas end right after New Year’s Day, but the main lights typically stay on until January 6th or so.

And London’s Christmas lights in popular areas like Oxford Street and Regent Street typically turn on in mid-November – making the holiday season feel extra long! The Christmas markets, ice rinks, and holiday events begin around the same time. You may even start seeing Christmas trees towards the end of October, although there’s obviously no guarantee.

So start planning your London Christmas trip – I promise you won’t regret it!

Where to Stay in London at Christmas

The city is huge, so it’s important to book accommodation near the spots you wanna see. I highly recommend booking a place in either Soho, Mayfair, or Covent Garden, as these neighborhoods are conveniently located near many of the city’s festive highlights.

Most hotels are pretty pricey (Christmas in London is super popular after all), so just be prepared to book early and spend a pretty penny, I mean pound, haha. If you’re on a budget, consider hotels further from the city center and taking the tube.

London’s got a seriously impressive lineup of hotels, but here’s a few that really nail that festive vibe:

  • The Ritz London: A true symbol of opulence! The Ritz goes all out for Christmas with stunning decor and extraordinary festive dining experiences (like a lavish five-course Christmas Day lunch).
  • Covent Garden Hotel: Nestled right in the heart of the action, this hotel is perfect for immersing yourself in the magical atmosphere of holiday markets and dazzling lights. You’ll be steps away from some of the best festive events!
  • Claridge’s: An absolute Mayfair classic, famous for its luxurious Christmas decorations and festive afternoon teas! 
  • Treehouse Hotel: We kicked off our trip here, and wow, what an experience! With its cozy ambiance and whimsical design, the Treehouse Hotel captures the magic of Christmas perfectly. The rooftop views are great, and oh wow that restaurant – oh so festive and fun! And they even had a DIY candy bar – the key to my heart!
  • The Savoy: Wow those decorations are stunning! Although we couldn’t snag a reservation for afternoon tea (pro tip: book early!), we still ventured over to admire the hotel’s lavish decor. The highlight was the vintage steam train where you can sip sparkling champagne in one of its ornate carriages – how cool is that?!
  • The Dorchester Hotel: If money is no object, stay here! And if it’s way out of your budget (like it was ours, haha), definitely check out the lobby – they go all out every year. 

Weather during Christmas in London

Overall, winter weather in London is pretty mild (compared to other spots in Europe in winter), but definitely be prepared for some rain – this is the British capital we’re talking about!

I’m including weather for late November and early January since the festivities often start early and continue into the new year. But of course most of the fun happens during December in London.

Late November

London’s weather in late November is typically cool, with average daytime temperatures around 8-10°C (46-50°F). Doesn’t seem that chilly, but evenings can drop to around 4-5°C (39-41°F), so it’ll feel nice and crisp when you’re out exploring the Christmas lights after dark. 

Rain is common (you could’ve told me that, haha), so definitely pack a travel umbrella or rain jacket for wandering through the markets and admiring the Christmas displays.

December

December in London brings true winter vibes, with temperatures averaging between 5-8°C (41-46°F) during the day and dipping to 2-4°C (36-39°F) at night. The Christmas lights add a warm glow to the city, but expect chilly air, especially once the sun sets. 

Unfortunately snow is rare in December (or anytime during winter in London actually, – it’s usually too warm for anything but light flurries), but there’s often a light drizzle or mist. 

For reference, we visited London for Christmas in late December, and got lucky with higher-than average temps and little-to-no rain! I was hot in my winter jacket at times, and had to carry it around. Just be prepared for temperamental temps and wear layers. 

January

January tends to be the coldest month in London, with daytime temperatures around 3-7°C (37-45°F). Nights are understandably colder, with the mercury often dropping to 1-3°C (33-37°F). 

While the Christmas lights start to come down after New Year’s, the winter sales are in full swing, and there’s still plenty of festive atmosphere left. You may catch a frosty morning, but snow is still infrequent. And when it does snow, it doesn’t stay on the ground too long – it typically melts away very quickly!

Tip: Layers are your best friend when visiting London for Christmas (it gets exceptionally hot on the tube). The city can be damp (it’s known for its rain afterall!), and temperatures fluctuate, so make sure to pack a mix of warm clothes, a good coat, scarf, gloves, and comfy boots to keep you warm while exploring all the Christmas magic! I’m giving way more packing advice below! 

Can I expect snow during Christmas in London? 

Don’t hold your breath… It hardly snows during December in London. Why? Mostly because the city is just too warm – the city generates tons of heat from all the buildings and cars. And when it does get cold enough, it melts quickly (sometimes before the snow can even settle). 

Psst – London is usually a few degrees warmer than the surrounding countryside outside the city. Meaning, if you wanna see snow, you’ll have a greater chance over there (or just go to Hallstatt, Switzerland, or Finnish Lapland where you’re practically guaranteed some of the white stuff!).

And if you get to experience snow at Christmas in London, you’re extremely lucky! The last time there’s been a truly white Christmas was back in 1999 –  over 20 years ago. Blame global warming…

What to Pack and Wear for Christmas in London

  • Warm Winter Coat: For those frigid winter days, you’ll really wanna invest in an insulated parka. I’ve got my eye on this North Face parka (I currently wear one from 10+ years ago – it’s about time for a new jacket). Looking for one a bit less expensive? This one’s crazy popular on social media, and with the length and sherpa-lined hood, I can totally see why. However note that it’s only water resistant, not waterproof, so not the best choice for those inevitable rainy London days.
  • Packable Puffer Jacket: I wear this one – it’s lightweight and water resistant, plus comes in a bunch of fun colors and the pockets are super deep (perfect for storing your phone). It packs down to almost nothing in the little included pouch – perfect for travel! 
  • Fleece Zip-Up: On those absolutely frigid days when you need a little something between your sweater and warm winter coat, a fleece zip-up (like this Columbia full-zip) will come in handy. Or if it’s unseasonably warm this can take the place of your winter jacket! There’s a reason it’s got 45k positive reviews!
  • Base Layers: I’ve been wearing heat tech long sleeve tees ever since I went to Banff in winter a few years back, and they’ve saved me from those frigid temps! They’re super lightweight and perfect to wear under a sweater, and leave you feeling dry and warm without the bulk!
  • Fleece-lined leggings: I used to layer two pairs of regular leggings, but now that fleece-lined leggings are a thing, I only wear those! They’re just as comfy as regular leggings, but keep your legs staying warm and toasty. I’ve worn these pairs a few times and they’ve been great, and come in a bunch of fun colors! If you’re looking for something to wear under jeans or snow pants instead, these come highly recommended (although too thin to wear on their own; more like a base layer).
  • Chapstick: Cold and dry air make your lips susceptible to chapping super easily. Ugh, the worst! I’m low-key obsessed with this cocoa butter swivel stick – it makes your lips so super soft and it smells a tad like chocolate! My favorite! It also works wonders on dry, chapped skin. You’ll wanna reapply multiple times throughout the day.
  • Power Bank: Batteries die faster in the cold, so come prepared with a power bank to recharge your stuff on the go. This compact power bank gives up to 10 full charges! I always throw this tiny one in my bag also, just in case, as a backup. My phone is my life-line (especially when traveling solo), so I like to be extra prepared!
  • Beanies: I’ve got this fleece-lined beanie (pom pom included) in a few colors, and always bring a thick headband along too for when I want to put my hair up. 
  • Warm Gloves: I like to take a few pairs of gloves with me – loving these wool-blend mittens and this pair that’s super lightweight and waterproof (good enough to go skiing in). Trust me, cheapie cotton gloves just ain’t good enough.
  • Scarves: I tend to bring a few, since they’re so easy to accessorize with! This blanket scarf is one of my faves (a great neutral option that matches everything), and chunky-knit infinity scarves are oh so cozy!
  • Waterproof Snow Boots: Even though it hardly snows during Christmas in London, I still recommend a comfy waterproof boot! Gotta keep your feet warm and dry and comfy on the streets; especially since you’ll probably be walking at least 15k steps a day! And THESE Sorel waterproof boots are easily the best ones out there – they’re 100% waterproof, seam-sealed, and actually look pretty cute (unlike most snow boots out there). I practically lived in them 2 weeks straight and got zero blisters! Leave the heeled boots at home – you’ll want flat boots for max comfort!
  • Polarized sunglasses: Yes, it’s sunny sometimes in London in December – I’ve been wearing these exact ones for years and I just love ‘em.
  • Travel umbrella: We all know rain is a thing in London, so come prepared with a small umbrella that you can easily pack in your day bag.
  • Dressier outfits: You’ll want a dressy outfit or two for festive dinners or shows – bring along a Christmas sweater (or jumper as they say in London!) for some extra cheer!

A Few More Things to Know about Christmas in London 

  • Prepare for the crowds: It’s no surprise – Christmas is peak season in London. You’ll need to book restaurant reservations early (spontaneous walk-ins are rare), and hotel rooms fill up fast. Pro tip: for that perfect IG photo, come during the quieter days in late November or early December. The closer it gets to Christmas the more crowded it’s gonna be. 
  • Public transport is your best friend: Forget about driving in London – it’s a logistical nightmare. Luckily, you can easily tap your contactless card on public transportation, so no need to grab an Oyster Card. Just hop on the Tube and you’re set!
  • The markets aren’t as magical as you’d think: Sure, there’s mince pies, gourmet cheese toasties, and handcrafted trinkets. But if you’re expecting epic, over-the-top magical Christmas markets, you’re gonna be disappointed. They’ve got nothing on markets in other European countries (Austria! Germany! France!). You don’t go to London for the markets – you go for the overall festive energy and holiday decorations around the city – the markets are just an added bonus.  
  • Expect to splurge on hotels: Accommodation in central London during Christmas is pricey – no surprise there. If you want to be near all the action (like Soho, Mayfair, or Covent Garden), make sure to book early (a few months in advance). The festive atmosphere comes at a premium, but it’s worth every penny. If you wanna save some money, stay during the week if possible. Weekends can be double the price.
  • Don’t try to do it all in 3 days: London is downright massive, and there’s just too much to cover in a short visit (festive neighborhoods, holiday activities, bauble-covered restaurants, etc). If you’re focusing on Christmas cheer, 3 days will give you a solid taste, but if you’re planning on mixing in tourist spots, you’ll need more time to truly explore the city.
  • Be strategic with your itinerary: Planning is key to making the most of London at Christmas. I like to map out my must-see spots (Google Maps is honestly my best friend, haha) and plan meals and activities nearby to save time. With so much to see in London in December, it’s not the time to wing it! Psst – here’s my festive 3 days in London Christmas itinerary (which you can totally steal and includes so many of these fun holiday activities).
  • Short days, long nights: With sunrise around 8am and sunset around 4pm, it’s true – daylight hours are limited during London at Christmas. But honestly? We don’t typically mind this as we get more time to soak up all the glittering lights and then get to bed early, haha (which is always necessary after walking 25k steps in a day!).
  • Christmas in London vs. Winter in London: Christmas and winter are two different beasts. Once January hits, most of the festive decorations disappear. If you’re after that glitz and sparkle, make sure you visit before mid-January when the Christmas magic fades.

Christmas Day in London (What’s Open) 

Understandably, most businesses and attractions are closed on Christmas Day. Locals deserve to spend time with their families, too! But if you’ll be here on Christmas Day, don’t worry – there’s still a few things you can do! 

Psst – most museums and galleries in London are closed on Christmas Day. However, some may be open on Boxing Day, such as The British Museum and The National Gallery. Always double and triple check opening hours before heading anywhere on Christmas, haha.

  • Take a Christmas Day walk or two: Explore London’s iconic sights, like Big Ben, Tower Bridge, or Hyde Park, without the usual crowds. You can also go for a walk along the Southbank! And of course all the decorations will be up!
  • Christmas Day River Cruises: Some companies offer festive river cruises along the Thames, complete with a Christmas meal and beautiful views of London’s skyline! One of the best things to do in London on Christmas Day, especially because you won’t need to worry about a meal (which can be hard to find on Christmas). This 3-hour lunch cruise down the River Thames (complete with 4-course traditional Christmas lunch) looks absolutely lovely! 
  • Take in the Christmas Lights: Even though the shops are closed, the festive lights on Oxford Street, Regent Street, and Carnaby Street are still on – and they’re utterly spectacular (although it’s sure to be busy, busy, busy)! This Open-Air Christmas Bus Tour is available on Christmas Day (although it’ll definitely sell out quickly!)
  • Hotel restaurants: Plan to either eat market food (our cheese-wheel pasta was perfect after wandering around in the cold) or make a reservation at a hotel restaurant (most serve special festive menus!). Most other restaurants will be closed on Christmas Day unless they have special Christmas menus ($$$). 

How do I get around London on Christmas Day?

Public transport operates on reduced services on Christmas Eve and Boxing Day, but on Christmas Day, most transport, including the tube and buses, is completely shut down. Meaning literally ZERO trains/buses. Yup, it’s a bit of a headache for visitors, haha. There’ll still be taxis on Christmas day, but understandably will charge a higher fare.

That’s why it’s super important to pick a hotel within walking distance of the main attractions if you’re visiting during Christmas. And don’t forget to book your Christmas Eve and Christmas Day meals in advance at restaurants nearby (which you can easily walk to)!

We actually flew out of London (for a few magical days celebrating Christmas in Prague) on Christmas Day itself – and we were SO worried there’d be ZERO public transit and/or rideshares available. 

Because of this, we decided to stay in an airport hotel (Holiday Inn Express Heathrow Terminal 4) the night beforehand so we didn’t have to worry about getting to the airport on Christmas Day. Highly recommended if you’re flying out early Christmas Day like we were. Took all those public transit stressors away thankfully! 

Best Things to do in London at Christmas

And now, what you probably came here for — my super long list of the best things to do in London at Christmas time! 

I was surprised to learn that Victorian England (with a little help from Germany!) pretty much created our modern idea of Christmas. So yes – they’re basically the OG of holiday cheer!

See the Spectacular Christmas Lights in London

London’s Christmas lights are next-level festive, so if you really wanna get into the holiday spirit, dedicate a few hours to the lights! From the glitz of Oxford Street to the quirkiness of Carnaby Street, London really knows how to do Christmas in style. 

Pretty much everything sparkles, and you can honestly just wander around and get lost in the magical atmosphere. But if you don’t wanna miss anything, be sure to plot these streets on your map! I was blown away by all the dazzling displays – no one does Christmas quite like London, so make sure to soak them in!

OR make your lives super easy and sign up for a Christmas lights tour! If you don’t wanna subject yourself to the cold, check out this Open Top Christmas Lights Bus Tour or this similar one (since it’s bound to sell out around the holidays). You can even hop on a Christmas lights bike tour if that’s your thing or download a self-guided audio walking tour if you prefer that instead. Traveling with a few friends/family? You can even go for a private tour in an iconic black cab! So many options!

Here’s some streets/neighborhoods you can’t miss:

Oxford Street: The city’s most famous (and crowded!) shopping street (Oxford!) becomes a total winter wonderland with tons of lights illuminating the chaos. We’re talking about thousands of twinkling stars, all made from recyclable materials and energy-efficient LED bulbs – they shine bright but get switched off after 11 pm to save energy. I love how the city is prioritizing the need to be eco-friendly!

Off of Oxford Street you’ll find South Molton Street which is worth a wander as well!

Carnaby Street: Always funky and colorful, Carnaby Street keeps things fresh with a new theme every year. When we visited in 2023, it was all about the “Carnaby Universe,” with planets flying overhead. And it was super cool. 

Previous themes have featured everything from electric vibes to rainbow-colored displays with disco balls and underwater worlds. It’s one of the coolest, quirkiest places to check out in London – a guaranteed vibe for sure!

Regent Street: I think this was the street I was most excited to see! Why?! Because it’s where you’ll find the iconic angels floating high above the street! And oh wow they were worth the wait!

Apparently the 2023 season was the last for the angels (hope this isn’t true!), but fingers crossed they make a comeback because they’re absolutely stunning. A true testament to Christmas in London, and it’d be a huge disappointment for the city if they were gone for good. 

Psst this is where the tradition of hanging Christmas lights in London actually started!

Bond Street and New Bond Street: If you love luxury, this is your spot. High-end brands like Cartier, Tiffany’s, and Chanel are decked out with the fanciest Christmas window decorations. And they’re all just gorgeous!

Even if you’re just window shopping (hey, a trip to London at Christmas is expensive enough, haha), it’s worth the stroll to soak up the holiday glam. Think Crown Jewels level fancy! I think we walked these streets half a dozen times – they’re just so festive and fun!

Getting chilly? Walk through nearby Royal Arcade and Burlington Arcade both 19th century covered shopping streets that are full of Christmas decorations too!

Belgravia: I absolutely loved strolling through Belgravia. It’s one of the prettiest (and wealthiest) neighborhoods in London and seriously feels like a scene out of Love Actually. It’s not as wow and over-the-top as the streets in Mayfair/Soho, but still just as classy and chic. 

We wandered down Elizabeth Street, grabbed festive cupcakes at Peggy Porschen, and took in all the chic Christmas vibes (grand Georgian townhouses and beautifully adorned white stucco facades included). Definitely hit up Dominique Ansel Bakery for cronuts and the stunning Moyses Stevens flower shop while you’re there!

Admire the London Christmas Trees

What’s Christmas without a few trees?! There’s a whole bunch scattered throughout the city (wayyy too many to list), but here’s a few of my faves (and they’re all festive AF of course). 

Trafalgar Square: Every December, Trafalgar Square receives a towering Christmas tree as a gift from Norway, symbolizing friendship and peace between the nations. It’s a tradition that’s been happening since 1947! Standing tall and elegantly decorated with vertical strings of lights, this tree is one of the most iconic sights in London at Christmas. 

Plus, the surrounding area is packed with holiday vibes and a small market – perfect for snapping festive pics or just soaking in the Christmas spirit.

Covent Garden Christmas Tree: What a showstopper! It’s over 60 feet tall, covered in 30,000 lights, and absolutely impossible to miss in the middle of all the Christmas hustle. Plus, the mistletoe chandeliers and holiday stalls just add to the festive feel. You’ll find the tree right outside the Apple Market, which was decked out in massive red ornaments and golden bells.

One of my favorite parts? It literally (fake) snows every hour on the hour from noon to 7 PM – a magical winter wonderland moment since London doesn’t get much snow, haha! If you’re looking for Christmas vibes, Covent Garden is the place to be.

Somerset House: The Christmas tree at Somerset House lights up the skating rink, and it’s honestly such a perfect winter scene. The decorations are stunning every year, with the tree adding to the historic charm of Somerset House. Even if you’re not skating, just sipping on a hot chocolate (like us!) while watching the skaters against this wintry scene is pure holiday perfection.

St. Pancras Station: St. Pancras Station has one of the most unique Christmas trees I’ve ever seen – it’s literally made of books! Sponsored by Hatchard’s (London’s oldest bookshop), this 12-meter-tall tree is stacked with 3,800 hand-painted books (and some even light up because why not?!). Safe to say itsy a total standout and almost reaches the ceiling, haha. 

As a book lover, I was beyond obsessed! You can even step inside the tree and chill in a few cozy reading nooks. And the best part? You don’t need a train ticket to enjoy it – just stop by and take it all in (we got lucky and we’re already here for the Eurostar to Bruges)! For the best view, head up the escalators. 

Leadenhall Market: Leadenhall Market is pure magic during the holiday season – and not just because it was a filming location for Harry Potter (true story!). With its stunning Victorian architecture and twinkling lights, it feels like you’re stepping straight into a cozy Christmas novel. The market’s centerpiece is an 8-foot real Christmas tree, sitting right under the breathtaking star-covered atrium.

If you’re lucky enough to be visiting in mid-November, don’t miss the annual tree-lighting ceremony – it’s such a fun way to kick off the festive season. Plus, the whole market is packed with seasonal treats, so definitely make time to wander around! We unfortunately visited towards the tail end of the season so the market stalls were already closed and the tree lights were off. 

Admittedly, the Christmas decorations tend to be kinda low key. BUT the red, green, and gold tones of the market are perfect for Christmassy shots!

Other Festive Christmas Trees to See:

  • Coal Drops Yard: Tucked away in the trendy King’s Cross area, Coal Drops Yard serves up a super modern Christmas tree that’s all about London’s cool, contemporary vibe. With its unique design and festive flair, it’s a hit with holiday shoppers and anyone hunting for the perfect Instagram shot.
  • The Connaught: A super elegant tree in a super elegant hotel! Chic and sophisticated, with a great afternoon tea. 
  • The Ritz: The epitome of luxury! If you’re all about glam, The Ritz Christmas tree is a whole mood. 

Check out the Best Christmas Displays in London

Annabel’s

Every Christmas, Annabel’s in Berkeley Square pulls out all the stops with its extravagant holiday displays. There’s a reason it’s one of the most popular places on Instagram! Even though it’s a swanky private members’ club, anyone can admire the exterior, and trust me, it’s worth the visit! 

When I went last season (2023), they had a massive hot air balloon surrounded by twinkling stars – totally over-the-top and so fun to see in person. In previous years, they’ve done gingerbread houses, carousels, and Nutcracker themes. You’ll definitely want to snap a pic here, but heads up, it’s on a busy main road, so getting the perfect shot can be a bit tricky.

Neill Strain Floral Couture 

This is one of the most over-the-top decorated shops, and it’d be a shame to miss it! It honestly feels like an art installation, haha.

I fell in love with the decorations at the Belgravia location last December, and it was decked out with vibrant baubles and a massive red bow – perfect for photos! It’s technically a flower shop, but they go all out for the holidays, and the Belgravia store is especially elaborate. If you’re gonna go slightly outta the way for some decorations, make it this one.

I randomly came across another one of their stores while wandering Mayfair, and it was just as festive (although not as showy and elaborate). If you’re into holiday decor and florals (like me!), this is a must-see.

Christmas at Kew

Kew Gardens at Christmas is pure magic – the garden lights up with a stunning after-dark display that feels straight out of a fairy tale. Think sparkling, illuminated pathways and whimsical light installations – perfect for an evening stroll! It’s one of the most popular holiday displays in London, so booking early is a must (it’s incredibly popular), but sadly, I ran out of time and missed it. 

KOYN

KOYN may be known for its incredible sushi and izakaya dishes, but during the holidays, it’s all about the festive decor! When I visited, there was the cutest vintage car parked outside, stacked with Christmas presents and topped off with a tree – it ended up being one of my favorite Christmas displays in London!

Seven Dials Market

Cozy holiday charm all in a foodie paradise – what more could you want?! Right in the heart of Covent Garden, this place goes all out with twinkling lights, massive wreaths, and a festive vibe that’s hard to resist. AND it’s inside so perfect when it’s beyond freezing outside.

Independent food vendors serve up everything from holiday treats to global flavors, so whether you’re craving a classic mince pie or something a bit more adventurous, you’ve got options. We were too stuffed from lunch to try anything unfortunately, but I honestly came for the decor anyways, haha. Pro tip: grab a mulled wine or hot chocolate while you wander!

Covent Garden Market Halls

Eeee – Covent Garden! The moment I laid eyes on those shimmering baubles and massive golden bells, I fell in love with London at Christmas! A huge grin was literally plastered on my face, haha. The entire market gets a holiday makeover and they really go all out – this year’s display might just be my favorite (based on the fabulous photos I’ve seen online of previous years).

Don’t miss the snow falling on the hour by the tree from 12 PM to 7 PM – it adds the perfect wintry touch! It’s beautiful, but just a quick heads up: it only lasts about a minute, so try to time your visit to avoid waiting around too long (there’s too many things to do in London at Christmas so you don’t wanna waste any time).

It’s easily one of my favorite Christmas displays in London, and every year they switch things up a bit, so you never really know what you’re gonna get – but it’s always festive and fabulous. I just LOVED the vintage Santa sleigh on display on the second floor of the Apple Market. So fun to take pics with!

Ever After Garden

Ever After Garden in Grosvenor Square is hands down one of the most touching displays I’ve seen in London for Christmas. It’s a sea of 25,000 illuminated white roses, each one dedicated to lost friends and loved ones. 

When I went, it was such a peaceful, reflective space amidst all the holiday hustle and bustle. If you’re looking for something a bit more meaningful during the holidays, this is the spot to visit – it’s truly beautiful and moving.

Go Ice Skating

London has a whole slew of ice rinks to check out, so lace up your skates and get out onto the ice! I’m kinda a clutz on skates (ask my friends…), so I didn’t do any skating myself. BUT I’m making it my mission to get on the ice next season – since we’re actually headed back to London for Christmas! 

Remember – most of the rinks are outdoors and open to the elements. Meaning it’ll be cold and possibly drizzly – dress appropriately and wear thick socks!  

Here’s a few iconic ice rinks in the city:

  • Somerset House: Somerset House is one of the most iconic rinks in London, located in a gorgeous 18th-century courtyard with a massive Christmas tree in the center. We didn’t skate, but loved watching everyone that was and then warming up with a cocktail at the Moët & Chandon Skate Lounge. Plus the tree is oh so grand and gorgeous!
  • Hampton Court Palace: Ever wanted to skate around while admiring the grand Tudor architecture of a historical palace?! You can over here! The ice rink is set against the backdrop of Henry VIII’s historic home, so once you’re done skating, head inside Hampton Court Palace – there’s even a historic chocolate kitchen!
  • GLIDE Battersea (Power Station): This is one of the newest open-air ice rinks in London, and it’s super Christmassy! Complete with a gingerbread house, cozy see-through igloos, a carousel, and a grand Christmas tree right in the middle of the rink. Plus really cute little support penguins for the kids. Pro-tip: go once it dark out to get the full effects of all the lights!
  • Queen’s House: Skate with a beautiful view of the Queen’s House and the nearby National Maritime Museum. It’s on the smaller size and a bit more relaxed; perfect for kids. Unfortunately the rink is closed for the 2024/25 season.
  • Canary Wharf Ice Rink: This rink’s partially covered (actually the only one in London!), so no need to worry about the city’s unpredictable weather. Skate around under the skyscrapers in the business district of Canary Wharf, and once you’re done, head over to the Oasis Bar & Terrace for some cozy après-skate drinks!

PS: Sadly, The Natural History Museum’s iconic ice rink is no more. It’s been permanently closed since 2021, with no plans to reopen.

Do Some Holiday Shopping in London

London is well-known for its luxury department stores, and they all go absolutely wild for Christmas. I’m talking dazzling lights, festive displays, and extravagant decorations – both inside and out!

So naturally, we ducked into department stores when we wanted to warm up (London’s chilly at night!). Plus, many of the shops have over-the-top window displays that are just amazing to see.

Harrods

Harrods is always a Christmas classic, and I make it a point to visit every time I’m in London, no matter the season (their fish and chips are chef’s kiss!). Plus, it’s always fun to gawk at the bougie designer goods, haha. 

In past years, the entire store exterior was decked out with golden Christmas lights and stunning wreaths. But unfortunately, when we visited, they decided to forgo decorations entirely! I was SUPER bummed, especially since I had seen photos from previous years and it all looked so epic! Guess it’s a reason for me to head back to London for Christmas.

Inside, though, they still delivered on the festive vibes (thankfully!). Think fancy ornaments, gold accents, and a Christmas department full of luxury decorations. Plus, the food hall is a must-visit, offering everything from mince pies to gourmet chocolates. Fingers crossed they bring back the exterior lights in future seasons!

Selfridges

Selfridges on Oxford Street is known for their extravagant holiday windows (15 in total!), and this year didn’t disappoint. The theme for 2023 was Showtime, featuring giant rotating candy canes, “The Belle of the Bauble” (a stunning figure draped in a shimmering bauble dress), and a delightful Bow Ballerina – everything was creative and whimsical. Don’t miss their epic Christmas Shop on the ground floor!

Fortnum & Mason

One of London’s oldest department stores, Fortnum & Mason truly shines during the holiday season! The annual advent calendar adorning the facade is simply stunning – definitely check it out at night, as I found it even more mesmerizing in the dark. 

Inside you can find curated gift baskets filled with tea, mince pies, Christmas pudding, brandy butter, and spiced treats. We had no room in our suitcases so couldn’t buy any (unfortunate for us since everything looked so good). Instead we just wandered around and soaked up the classic British Christmas charm!

Psst – you can also pop into Harvey Nick’s and Liberty London if you have time – but honestly, we were a little department store’d out by now!

See a Festive Holiday Performance

London is absolutely famous for its theater scene. And come December, London is FILLED with Christmas shows – there’s everything from elegant ballets, classic tales with seasonal twists, and captivating orchestras. 

Here’s some of the most popular holiday performances to check out in London in December:

  • The Nutcracker at the Royal Opera House: A holiday classic with stunning choreography and a magical atmosphere. The story follows a young girl named Clara on her adventure through a fantastic world filled with dancing dolls, sugar plums, and her brave Nutcracker prince. I saw this in SF once and I’d love to see it again!
  • A Christmas Carol at the Old Vic: A must-see for Dickens fans! This classic story follows Ebenezer Scrooge, a grumpy old man who hates Christmas and only cares about his business and money. The tale explores how he learns to embrace the holiday spirit and change his ways.
  • West End Musicals: If you’re not into traditional Christmas shows, many long-running West End musicals run throughout December, including Disney’s The Lion King (I LOVED this one!), Wicked, Matilda The Musical, Les Miserables, and Harry Potter and the Cursed Child (saw this one too!). On my last trip to London in December, I saw Elf! at the Dominion Theatre and loved this take on the beloved Will Ferrell film. You really can’t go wrong!

Best London Christmas Markets

Let’s be real – London’s Christmas markets definitely don’t have the same grandeur as those in Germany, France, or Austria (don’t hate me for saying that!), but that doesn’t mean you should skip them. Sure, they’re not super elaborate (with the exception of Winter Wonderland), but they’re still fun for some festive shopping, mulled wine, and stocking up on unique gifts.

We managed to hit up the markets in Leicester Square, Trafalgar Square, and Covent Garden, but the others are still on my London Christmas bucket list for next time. If you’d rather venture around with a local guide, sign up for this small group Christmas market tour (lunch and oysters and lots more included!).

A little tip: some markets end in late December, while others stick around until early January. Make sure to check exact dates on the official websites before planning your trip!

Winter Wonderland in Hyde Park

Winter Wonderland is a total Christmas extravaganza – London’s biggest and most famous festive spot, and it’s not just a market, it’s a whole experience. 

Picture traditional wooden chalets selling gifts, bratwurst, churros, mulled wine, and more. Add to that a Bavarian Village, carnival rides, the UK’s largest outdoor ice skating rink, and a whole ice sculpture exhibition, and you’ve got one epic holiday adventure. You can even grab a drink at the ice bar, where everything (yup, everything) is made of ice.

It’s best to go in the early afternoon if you want to avoid the crazy crowds. And don’t forget, you’ll need to buy a ticket to enter Winter Wonderland (only a few pounds), with extra fees for things like ice skating, the ice bar, and other attractions. But trust me, it’s worth it — we already have our tickets for this coming year!

Trafalgar Square Christmas Market

We stumbled upon the Trafalgar Square Christmas Market one evening (located on the terrace in front of The National Gallery), and to be honest, it wasn’t my favorite. It’s super small with only a handful of stalls, and nothing really stood out (except for some cute London-themed ornaments). 

While I wouldn’t go out of my way to visit, if you’re already nearby, it’s worth a quick wander. At least you’ll get to see the iconic Christmas tree, which is a gift from Norway each year and has quite the history behind it!

Greenwich Christmas Market

Set within the historic Greenwich Market, this one boasts over 150 stalls and has a bit more character than some of the others. 

Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to make it here (it’s a bit further away from the most popular things to do in London at Christmas), but I’ve heard it’s a gem for finding handcrafted gifts. You can expect eco-friendly candles, leather accessories, homemade jewelry, and unique homewares. It’s a fantastic spot to support independent vendors, plus Santa’s Grotto is a hit for families. 

Covent Garden Christmas Village

Okay, so Covent Garden Christmas Village may not be your typical market, but it was hands down one of my favorite spots in London during December. The whole area transforms into a festive wonderland, with massive baubles, shimmering lights, and a giant Christmas tree that snows (fake snow, but still!). 

Loads of restaurants in the area roll out seasonal menus, and the pop-up bars serving mulled wine and festive cocktails are an absolute must. Boutique shops line the streets for some holiday retail therapy, and honestly, it’s perfect for Instagram! Plus there was the cutest gingerbread hut when we visited with lots of beers and ciders on tap!

Southbank Centre Winter Market

Right along the Thames and just steps away from the London Eye, Southbank Centre Winter Market has its own charm but feels a bit more low-key. There’s a handful of wooden chalets selling mostly food and drinks rather than gifts or souvenirs. 

It’s pretty small, so unless you’re already planning to ride the London Eye or head to the National Theatre, I wouldn’t go out of my way. But if you’re nearby, it’s a cute stop for some festive snacks with views of the river.

Leicester Square Christmas Market

Leicester Square’s Christmas market may be small, but it’s cozy and bustling with festive cheer. Located right in the heart of London’s West End, it has some charming unique shops, beautifully decorated stalls, and of course, some delicious street food (DIY roasted marshmallows, anyone?). We also saw mini pancakes, waffles, and German sausages covered in molten raclette cheese – yummmm.

We went twice because, well, the cheese wheel pasta and hot cider were just that good. Definitely a cute spot to browse for some handcrafted jewelry, decorations, and gifts while getting into the holiday spirit.

Christmas by the River at London Bridge

Tucked between London Bridge and Tower Bridge along the south bank of the Thames, this market offers festive fun with a killer backdrop. Cozy pop-up stalls sell everything from ornaments to scarves, all while you’re surrounded by London’s most iconic sights—think Tower Bridge and The Shard. 

Yeah, it gets a little packed (because who wouldn’t want to shop with those views?), but the setting totally makes it worth the tight squeeze.

Best Restaurants for a Festive Meal

‘Tis the season of overindulgence! There’s no shortage of festive places to eat in London, and it’s nearly impossible to visit them all during a Christmas visit, especially if you’ve only got a few days. 

There’s heated igloos, spaces completely covered in baubles, and colorful Christmassy cupcakes – OH and definitely pick out a festive afternoon tea for a classic British experience!

Restaurants get booked up – you’ll definitely wanna make reservations ahead of time for most of these below! Many have special menus just for the holiday season, so be sure to check them out and secure your spot early.

Daphne’s

Daphne’s is such a classic London spot, especially around the holidays! Its bauble-covered conservatory area is simply magical (have you seen the photos?!), which makes indulging in some Italian food all that more festive. 

While the food is pretty standard (and the prices are high), you’re really there for the ambiance! Pro-tip: ask for a table by the fireplace; it adds a cozy touch. Just a heads-up – the place has mixed reviews, with some people saying it’s overrated, so do your research ahead of time. But regardless of that, the place is always booked up, so definitely make a reservation at least a few weeks in advance.

Peggy Porschen Belgravia

We swung by Peggy Porschen Belgravia for breakfast one morning (because, honestly, who says cupcakes aren’t a breakfast food?), and I totally fell for all the holiday-themed treats, haha. It was hard to choose – everything is oh so pretty!

This place is practically an iconic London landmark – all decked out in peony pink no less! Perfect for pretty pictures and sipping on a warm drink in the cozy tea room. They change out the front decor every season, and of course Christmas is just sensational.

They do offer savory breakfast and brunch items, but let’s be real, most folks come for the sugary treats. And if you’re in the mood for something extra special, you can even enjoy afternoon tea at the Parlor.

Sketch

Pricey, posh, and perfectly photogenic, especially during the Christmas season. Even the iconic egg-shaped bathroom stalls that we’ve all seen were decorated for Christmas as well! It’s the perfect place to go if you’re feeling fancy and festive. Stepping into this wintry wonderland the moment we walked through the doors was nothing short of magical – talk about a first impression!

The restaurant features four distinct rooms, each with its own avant-garde decor that’s spectacularly over-the-top. We had lunch in the Glade Room, which was absolutely enchanting and filled with twinkling fairy lights and lush green garlands, complete with a ballerina dancing around for a bit! 

If you wanna enjoy afternoon tea in The Gallery, be sure to book SUPER early – it’s super popular. It’s definitely a pretty penny (one of the priciest afternoon teas in London), but the food is fantastic, the atmosphere is superb, and it’s insanely Instagrammable – especially during Christmas in London.

Psst – if you’re looking for the iconic plush pink room, you won’t find it anymore! They’ve revamped it into a cheerful yellow, and it’s more vibrant than ever (although I was definitely missing the pink!).

Miracle at Henrietta

Miracle at Henrietta is an outrageously over-the-top Christmassy cocktail bar, very similar to those whimsical pop-ups we have in San Francisco. The space is completely decked out with tinsel hanging from the ceiling, gloriously kitschy decor, and an oversized fireplace that screams holiday cheer. Seasonal drinks are served in delightfully tacky mugs – think Santa-themed cups and dinosaurs sporting Christmas hats.

If you’re from a major city in the U.S. like we are, you might want to skip this one since chances are you’ve got something similar back home. You’d be better off spending your time doing uniquely London experiences!

Coppa Club Igloos

I’ve seen these famous heated igloos (with views of the Tower Bridge!) on social media for ages, and I was so excited to go! Only to realize I was a few months too late to snag a reservation (they only have nine igloos, so it’s no surprise, right?).

If you manage to get a spot, you’ll have to let me know how it goes, haha. I’ve heard they can get a bit hot and sticky inside, but I bet the festive decor and holiday drinks make it all worthwhile. Just a heads-up: be prepared for a minimum spend of around £35 per person – though there’s no minimum at breakfast!

Ralph’s Coffee by Ralph Lauren

In front of Cartier on Old Bond Street, you’ll find Ralphs – one of the most festive coffee shops around. And yup, it’s busy busy busy which is honestly to be expected, haha. You can either dine in or simply take a hot beverage to go; we grabbed a coffee and hot chocolate and both were great! 

The Ivy Chelsea Garden

Come for the (good quality) food, stay for the (over-the-top) decor! There’s a few Ivy locations around town, but the one in Chelsea has the most spectacular display (all in a beautiful Georgian building). Plus, the modern British menus have so much to choose from. 

If you can’t get a rez, at least stop by to see the decorations – the facade never disappoints (and it changes every year and is always super impressive).

Churchill Arms

Churchill Arms is one of the oldest pubs in London, and it gets a complete makeover for Christmas! Expect to see dozens and dozens of Christmas trees on the exterior of the building, and lots of lights inside as well! The pub serves Thai food surprisingly, so you can enjoy delicious curries and noodles at the same time that you’re having a pint.

Some other iconic restaurants for Christmas in London: 

  • 34 Mayfair: known to be one of most festive restaurants in London for Christmas, although I heard they’ve recently downgraded their decor quite a bit. 
  • Duck & Waffle: come for a festive brunch overlooking the city from the 40th floor, complete with snow-covered trees, glistening icicles, and glowing lamp posts
  • Dalloway Terrace: celebrate Christmas with a festive afternoon tea or lunch on their al-fresco terrace (don’t worry – there’s heat lamps and an enclosed awning and tons of holiday decorations)
  • Clos Maggiore: A modern French restaurant right in the heart of Covent Garden that’s perfect for a romantic meal with it’s cozy, candle-lit Christmas oasis filled with lots of local and seasonal products
  • Tattu: expect a chic, spacious, and sophisticated dining experience with a festive twist on its contemporary Cantonese classics!
  • Festive Afternoon teas: This is what London’s known for – don’t miss it! I live for all the holiday pastries, scones, and finger sandwiches, and luckily there’s tons of festive options around the city, including The Savoy, One Aldwych, Sweetsmas Tea at Four Seasons, and Sketch.

So who’s heading to London for Christmas this year?! I can’t wait to stand under the dazzling lights and indulge in all the festive treats!



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