south america Archives • A Passion and A Passport https://apassionandapassport.com/category/south-america/ Proving Travel is Possible with a Full-Time 9-5 Fri, 14 Mar 2025 05:49:35 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=5.8.12 3 Days in the Peruvian Amazon Rainforest (Puerto Maldonado) https://apassionandapassport.com/amazon-rainforest-peru-puerto-maldonado/ https://apassionandapassport.com/amazon-rainforest-peru-puerto-maldonado/#respond Fri, 14 Mar 2025 05:49:34 +0000 https://apassionandapassport.com/?p=32138 Heading to Peru and dreaming of an adventure in the Peruvian Amazon?! You’re in for an unforgettable trip! I’m covering everything you need to know – where to go, what to see, how to get there, and plenty of insider tips to make the most of your jungle adventure in Puerto Maldonado! Misty mornings onContinue Reading

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Heading to Peru and dreaming of an adventure in the Peruvian Amazon?! You’re in for an unforgettable trip! I’m covering everything you need to know – where to go, what to see, how to get there, and plenty of insider tips to make the most of your jungle adventure in Puerto Maldonado!

Misty mornings on the Tambopata River. Scarlet macaws swooping over clay licks. Towering kapok trees tangled in vines, hiding sloths and jaguars. CAPYBARAS (!!!) splashing through oxbow lakes, while caimans lurk in the shallows. Welcome to the Peruvian Amazon – wild, untamed, and teeming with life at every turn.

I’ve had the Amazon on my bucket list since the moment I even knew what a bucket list was. So when I started planning my 3-week Peru trip, there was no way I was skipping it. Puerto Maldonado (the capital city of the Madre de Dios region in southeast Peru) checked all the boxes. It’s relatively easy to get to, not overrun with tourists, and a solid bang for my buck. So off I went, ready to dive into the wild.

The Amazon Rainforest is a living, breathing powerhouse – pumping out 20% of the world’s oxygen and holding a staggering 20% of the planet’s river water. With an astonishing 40,000 plant species and a mind-blowing 2.5 million insect species, it’s one of the most biodiverse places on Earth. There’s simply nowhere else like it.

The jungle town of Puerto Maldonado is the ultimate gateway to the southern Amazon. Think endless rainforest, insane biodiversity, and some of the most wildlife-packed lakes around. I watched capybaras lounging by the water, white caimans and their babies gliding through the shallows, and flocks of colorful birds filling the sky. If you’re looking for a true Amazon experience, this is the place to be!

Psst – I visited the Amazon Rainforest in Peru at the end of a 3-week G Adventures Tour, and can’t recommend them enough. If you’re traveling to Peru on your own and want to visit the Amazon without any hassle, this 4-day Puerto Maldonado tour got excellent reviews and is great value! Can’t handle the humidity and would rather have a shorter stay like I did? Check out this 3-day tour instead! And definitely consider this one that goes to the macaw clay lick

That last one is the one I would have picked if my Amazon experience wasn’t already included in my longer 3-week Peru tour. All include transportation, meals, lodging, and a guide who will take you on daily wildlife excursions!

Is the Amazon a Jungle or Rainforest?

I was a little confused about this at first, so lemme clarify in case you’re unsure also. Yes, I know it’s called the Amazon Rainforest, but I kept calling it a jungle! 

So let’s set the record straight: The Amazon is a rainforest, and it’s actually the largest tropical rainforest in the world. However, the terms jungle and rainforest are sometimes used interchangeably, even though they’re not exactly the same.

  • A rainforest is a dense, tropical forest with high rainfall (at least 79 inches per year) and incredible biodiversity. The Amazon fits this definition perfectly.
  • A jungle is a type of dense forest, typically with thick undergrowth, making it harder to navigate. While parts of the Amazon do have jungle-like areas, much of the rainforest has a tall canopy with less undergrowth on the forest floor.

Where is the Peruvian Amazon Rainforest?

Before visiting and doing research, I had no idea just how massive the Peruvian Amazon really was. Covering 782,880 square kilometers (302,000 square miles) – about twice the size of Germany or the combined size of Texas and California – it actually makes up 60% of Peru’s total land area. Which is INSANE to me considering I spent almost 3 weeks exploring other parts of Peru.

Yet, despite its size, it remains one of the least populated regions, with vast stretches of untouched rainforest teeming with wildlife. As part of the larger Amazon Rainforest, which spans multiple South American countries (nine to be exact!), Peru’s section stands out as one of the most biodiverse places on Earth. 

If you’re looking to explore the Amazon in Peru, there are a few different areas, which I’ll explain in detail below.

Puerto Maldonado

Puerto Maldonado is one of the most accessible and popular gateways to the Peruvian Amazon – perfect for travelers who want to experience the jungle without an overly complicated journey (like me!). 

It sits in the southeastern part of the country, only 55 kilometers (34 miles) from the Bolivian border, right where the Tambopata and Madre de Dios rivers meet. Since it has an airport and decent infrastructure, it’s an easy place to start an Amazon adventure while still feeling completely immersed in nature.  

Psst – Puerto Maldonado itself isn’t exactly the rainforest experience you’re imagining; it’s actually a bustling little town! To truly immerse yourself in the Amazon, you’ll need to venture beyond the city limits. Most lodges require a journey by car and then a longboat ride along winding rivers to reach the heart of the jungle. This is where I went and where all my photos are from!

Iquitos

On the other hand, Iquitos is deep in the northern Amazon and is the largest city in the world that can’t be reached by road – only by plane or boat. It’s the place to go for a true off-the-grid experience, with river cruises, remote lodges, and even pink river dolphins in the waters of the Amazon River itself. It’s more developed than Puerto Maldonado but also more difficult to reach.  

Manú National Park

You’ll also see tours for Manú National Park advertised all over Cusco. Manú is one of the most protected parts of the Peruvian Amazon, meaning fewer tourists, but also trickier logistics. Getting there requires a long, bumpy journey by road and river, making it best for those who want a more rugged, off-the-beaten-path experience.  

Since we visited Puerto Maldonado, that’s what this Peruvian Amazon blog post will focus on! It’s an incredible place to experience the jungle’s wild beauty, packed with diverse wildlife, stunning lakes, and a mix of adventure and relaxation.

Wildlife in Puerto Maldonado vs. Other Parts of the Amazon  

While the entire Amazon Rainforest is a biodiversity hotspot, different regions have unique ecosystems, meaning the wildlife you’ll encounter can vary. Puerto Maldonado, located in the southern Amazon, is home to an incredible range of species, particularly in the Tambopata National Reserve. 

Here, you’ll find red howler monkeys, capuchins, squirrel monkeys, dusky titi monkeys, and the occasional spider monkey. The riverbanks are prime spots for white caimans, capybaras (the world’s largest rodent), and plenty of birdlife, including horned screamers, herons, and vibrant macaws. This region is also famous for its oxbow lakes, where you might see giant river otters (though they’re rare) and side-necked turtles basking in the sun.  

Other parts of the Amazon offer different wildlife experiences. In Iquitos, in the northern Peruvian Amazon, you’re more likely to see pink river dolphins swimming in the murky waters of the Amazon River. This region also has higher humidity and more seasonal flooding, which creates a different ecosystem where sloths, anacondas, and tree-dwelling species thrive. The forests here tend to be denser and wetter, making wildlife spotting a bit trickier but rewarding.  

In the Brazilian Amazon, near Manaus, the sheer scale of the rainforest means a greater chance of encountering jaguars, piranhas, and even harpy eagles. This part of the Amazon is also home to the massive Victoria Amazonica water lilies and unique flooded forest ecosystems.  

So, if you’re visiting Puerto Maldonado, expect an incredible mix of monkeys, macaws, capybaras, and caimans, with the possibility of spotting elusive creatures like sloths and river otters. But if your dream is to see pink dolphins or anacondas, you might want to venture further north into the deeper Amazon.

But set your expectations accordingly – this is the rainforest, and wildlife is, well, wild! While you’re guaranteed to see plenty of incredible creatures, there’s no way to predict exactly what will cross your path. If you’re dreaming of spotting a jaguar or an anaconda, just know that sightings are extremely rare. 

Our guides, who have worked in the jungle for years, told us they’ve only seen them a handful of times. Since you’ll only be there for a few days, the odds aren’t in your favor – but trust me, the Amazon has plenty of other incredible wildlife to keep you in awe!

When to Visit the Peruvian Amazon

Choosing when to visit the Peruvian Amazon can make or break your experience, depending on what you’re looking for. No matter when you go, expect hot and humid conditions year-round — it’s the rainforest, after all! But the level of rain, river conditions, and even wildlife sightings can change drastically depending on the season.

Dry Season (April to October) – Best for Clear Skies & Easier Exploration

We visited in early August, and the conditions were absolutely perfect – plenty of sunshine, lower humidity (relatively speaking), and fewer mosquitos than in the wetter months. 

This is the best time to visit if you want:

  • Easier hiking: Trails are drier and less muddy.
  • More wildlife sightings: Animals tend to stick closer to the riverbanks since there’s less standing water deep in the jungle.
  • Better boat travel: Water levels are lower, meaning fewer obstacles and smoother rides.
  • Clearer skies for stargazing: With less cloud cover, the Amazon night sky is unreal! Including the Milky Way!

While it’s the “dry” season, don’t expect zero rain – this is still the rainforest, and short but intense showers can happen anytime. But in general, they’re less frequent and don’t disrupt activities as much as in the wet season.

Wet Season (November to March/April) – Lush Scenery & Higher Water Levels

If you visit during the rainy season, prepare for daily downpours and extremely high humidity. February tends to be the rainiest month, and heavy storms can lead to flooded trails, rescheduled activities, or even cancellations if water levels get too high. Thankfully, most lodges supply trekking boots when the hiking is exceptionally muddy. 

However, visiting in this season does have some unique perks:

  • The jungle is at its lushest and greenest: Everything feels extra alive!
  • Rivers are much higher: Meaning boat access is better, and you can venture deeper into areas that are harder to reach in the dry season.
  • Some wildlife is easier to spot: Aquatic species, in particular, thrive in the flooded forest.

One big thing to note – rainfall varies from year to year, especially due to El Niño, which affects the entire climate of Peru. Some years see much heavier or lighter rains than usual, so it’s always good to check recent conditions before booking.

So, when’s the best time to go? If you want ideal weather, better hiking conditions, and fewer trip disruptions, the dry season (April to October) is your best bet. But if you’re after lush jungle scenery and higher water levels for boat access, the wet season (November to March/April) might be worth considering – just be prepared for rain, and lots of it!

How to Get to Puerto Maldonado

Getting to Puerto Maldonado is an adventure in itself! While it’s deep in the Amazon, it’s surprisingly accessible compared to other jungle destinations in Peru. Here’s exactly how to get there:

Step 1: Fly to Puerto Maldonado

The easiest way to reach Puerto Maldonado is by flying. The town has a small airport, Padre Aldamiz International Airport (PEM), which receives daily flights from Cusco and Lima. If you’re coming from Cusco, you’re in luck—there are direct flights that take only about 1 hour. However, if you’re flying from Lima, you’ll need to connect through Cusco, as there are no non-stop flights. LATAM, Sky Airline, and JetSMART are the main airlines that operate this route.

We flew directly from Cusco, and I was glued to the window the entire time. Once we started descending into the Amazon, the views were absolutely unreal – just an endless stretch of deep green jungle as far as you can see. Absolutely insane!

FYI – there’s now an 8-10 hour bus from Cusco, thanks to a newly built highway connecting the two cities. But honestly, with flights being so quick and affordable, I’d stick with the plane!

Step 2: Transfer to the Lodge’s Office

Most jungle lodges offer airport pickup, which makes things super easy. After landing, a lodge representative was waiting for us right outside baggage claim to shuttle us into town, where we made a quick stop at their office. 

This is where you’ll pack your duffle bag for the jungle (lodges typically provide these to limit luggage weight on the boat). Your main suitcase stays securely stored at the office while you head into the rainforest with just the essentials. 

I was definitely overthinking what to bring, but they gave clear instructions – bug spray, a flashlight, and extra socks were non-negotiables! Way more info on what to pack further down in this Peru Amazon blog post – promise it’s not as difficult as it seems to pack!

Step 3: Drive to the River Port

Once everyone’s packed and ready, it’s time for a 30 to 45-minute drive on a bumpy dirt road to the river port. The ride itself is a bit of an adventure – we passed through thick jungle, small villages, and the occasional roadside stand selling fresh coconuts. Keep your eyes peeled for wildlife; we unfortunately didn’t see anything just yet.

Step 4: Boat Ride into the Amazon

Now for the best part – the 2 to 3-hour boat ride deep into the rainforest! You’ll cruise along the Tambopata or Madre de Dios River, depending on which lodge you’re staying at. These long, motorized canoes have a roof for shade and comfy seats for the ride. The journey isn’t just transportation – it’s your first real introduction to the Amazon. Our guide pointed out howler monkeys, capybaras, caimans, and even some vibrant macaws along the way.

By the time you reach your lodge, you’ll feel completely immersed in the Amazon, surrounded by nothing but jungle sounds and the flowing river. For reference, we took an early morning flight, and didn’t arrive at the lodge until almost sunset. It was a long and tiring travel day, but well worth it!

What to Bring to the Amazon Rainforest 

Packing for the Amazon is all about staying cool, dry, and bite-free – but let’s be real, no one is walking out of the jungle sweat-free (I looked like a glazed donut the entire time, haha). 

The lodge provides a duffel bag, so you’ll need to pack light (aka, your giant suitcase stays behind). Just note that nothing really dries in the jungle, so if something gets wet, be prepared to wear it damp or let it stay that way until you’re back in civilization!

Here’s what you’ll actually want to bring:  

Clothing & Footwear  

  • Long pants: Lightweight and breathable to keep bugs off while not roasting alive.  
  • Cool, loose clothing: Think moisture-wicking fabrics, NOT jeans. Trust me.  
  • High socks: For tucking your pants into (yes, you’ll look ridiculous, but it keeps the bugs out).  
  • Sneakers or hiking boots/trail runners: The jungle floor can be muddy and uneven.  
  • Hat: Wide-brim for extra sun protection. Bonus if it makes you feel like an explorer.  

Essentials for Surviving the Jungle  

  • Bug spray: The strongest DEET you can find. The mosquitoes here are on another level, especially if you visit during the rainy season.
  • Sunscreen: Because even in the shade, the equatorial sun does not play.  
  • Toiletries: The basics (plus extra deodorant, because wow, the sweat is real).  
  • Portable little battery-powered fan: Absolute lifesaver in the heat and humidity.  
  • Quick-dry towel: If your lodge doesn’t provide one, you’ll want it for sweaty hikes/swims.  
  • Light rain jacket or poncho: Sudden downpours happen.  

Extras You’ll Thank Me For  

  • Headlamp or flashlight: Night walks are pitch black, and you’ll need your own light.  
  • Binoculars: To actually see that sloth your guide is pointing at.  
  • Dry bag: Protects your phone and camera from rain/humidity.  
  • Power bank: Some lodges have limited electricity, so charging devices can be tricky.  
  • Notebook & pen: If you like jotting down wildlife sightings or jungle thoughts.  
  • Earplugs: The rainforest is LOUD at night. If you’re a light sleeper, these are a must.  

I had grand plans of looking all cute and all, but after five minutes in the sweltering humidity, I gave up. Function over fashion wins every time in the Amazon, haha!

A few more packing tips to survive the jungle’s relentless moisture:

  • Go for quick-dry fabrics: Think lightweight, moisture-wicking materials like polyester or merino wool. Cotton will just soak up sweat and never fully dry.
  • Pack extra socks and underwear: Trust me, nothing is worse than putting on damp socks. Bring a few extra pairs so you always have a dry option.
  • Loose, breathable clothing is key: Tight clothes will cling to your sweaty skin – stick to loose-fitting pants and shirts to stay comfortable.
  • Waterproof everything: Use dry bags or plastic bags with a zip (ziplock bags) to keep essentials (like electronics and important documents) from getting damp.
  • Bring a small microfiber towel: Dries faster than a regular towel and is perfect for wiping off sweat or drying off after a shower.
  • Antifungal powder or wipes: The combo of heat, sweat, and damp clothes can cause skin irritation – this helps keep things fresh.

And the most important tip? Mentally prepare for the humidity! No matter what you wear, you’re going to be sweaty and damp – just embrace it!

Where to Stay in Puerto Maldonado

We stayed at Tambopata Ecolodge, and it was everything I hoped for in an Amazon jungle lodge – remote, eco-friendly, and completely immersive in nature. Tucked deep in the rainforest, the lodge is only accessible by boat, making the journey there feel like part of the adventure. 

We slept in thatched-roof bungalows that were rustic but comfortable, with mosquito-netted beds, open-air designs, and candlelit ambiance at night (no electricity in the rooms, but honestly, that just added to the experience). Meals were freshly prepared and surprisingly delicious, and the staff was fantastic – super knowledgeable and passionate about the jungle. Even our room keys were capybara keychains!

One of my favorite parts? Falling asleep to the sounds of the Amazon, from distant howler monkeys to the chorus of frogs and cicadas. If you’re looking for a true off-the-grid Amazon experience without sacrificing comfort, Tambopata Ecolodge is an incredible choice.

How Long to Stay

Most people stay 2-3 nights in the Amazon, which is enough time to soak up the jungle experience without going into full survival mode. We did 2 nights, and it felt just right – plenty of adventure, wildlife sightings, and sweaty hikes without overstaying in the heat and humidity. 

Keep in mind, there’s no AC, so if you’re someone who struggles with the heat, you might not want to push it much longer. I was content with our 2 night stay, and was so ready to wash off all the sweat once we got back to Lima!

Here’s a general overview of our 2 night, 3 day stay in the Amazon:

  • Day 1: nonstop flight from Cusco to Puerto Maldonado in the AM, transfer to the lodge’s office where we packed our duffel bags, bumpy drive to catch our boat (with lunch en route), boat ride down the Rio Madre De Dios spotting capybaras, macaws, and caimans, arrived at the lodge, introduction and dinner, night walk through the pitch-black jungle
  • Day 2: breakfast, hike through the jungle and boat ride, lunch, afternoon monkey walk through the forest, lodge relaxation time, dinner, late night boat ride to spot white caimans and star gazing
  • Day 3: breakfast, last look at the rainforest, ride back to the lodge office to pick up our suitcases, direct flight to Lima

It was a busy (and exhausting) few days, but you’ll really wanna pack it all in so you get the most possible chances to spot wildlife.

What to Expect at Tambopata Ecolodge 

The Food

I’ll be honest – I wasn’t expecting much when it came to jungle cuisine, but Tambopata Ecolodge totally delivered. Every meal was fresh, flavorful, and way better than I expected for being so deep in the rainforest. There was a great variety of dishes, and they made sure to rotate meals so you weren’t eating the same thing every day. Each meal was served buffet style, so you could fill up on as much as you wanted. 

Expect plenty of rice, root vegetables, and carbs – because, let’s be real, all that jungle trekking works up an appetite. 

Some standout dishes? Fried plantains, yucca, black beans, and tender chicken wrapped in banana leaves. We also had pork with a rich curry sauce, creamy avocado, fresh tropical fruit, and even dessert every night (the passionfruit flan and pie de manzana were amazing!). Breakfasts were simple but hearty, with fried eggs, fresh fruit juices, and more carbs to fuel the day ahead.

Water is technically potable, but it had a slightly brownish tint, so I personally didn’t risk it. Luckily, you can buy bottled water, soft drinks, and cocktails at the bar. Speaking of which, do yourself a favor and order a passionfruit mojito – refreshing, fruity, and the perfect way to end a long day of jungle exploring.

Health in the Amazon

I was most anxious about my health in the Amazon, considering there’s all kinds of scary mosquito-borne diseases out there and no major hospitals nearby. According to the CDC, a yellow fever vaccine is recommended, so I highly recommend you get that before visiting. It was a bit difficult to get back home in California, so I recommend looking into the vaccine a few months before your trip. Of course talk to your doctor!

While malaria hasn’t been reported in the area for over 35 years, I still took the full dose of my malaria pills as directed by my doctor – better safe than sorry. 

Also, the humidity and heat make it super easy to get dehydrated, so drinking tons of water is a must. The lodge provides potable water, but I also brought electrolyte packets to help stay hydrated (and because plain water gets boring after a while).

Bugs in the Amazon

Yes, there are bugs – duh, it’s the Amazon Rainforest – but honestly, not as many as I expected. And nothing too scary.

Inside the bungalows, we barely saw any, which was a relief. Just remember to keep the door shut unless you want some unexpected visitors. Around the lodge and out exploring, we saw giant moths, butterflies (that landed on our heads!), lots of spiders (some large, some small), and plenty of massive cicadas making their presence known. Bug spray was a lifesaver, especially in the evenings. 

And just like in Lake Atitlan in Guatemala, always look inside your shoes before putting them on – you never know what might be hiding inside. Still gives me the creeps just thinking about it. 

Sleeping 

Note that this experience is not for the faint of heart – the jungle is hot, buggy, and wild. If you’re looking for luxury, this ain’t it. Overall, we were pretty comfortable, but the intense humidity really got to us pretty quickly.

Each bed has a mosquito net, which made me feel like I was in some sort of jungle fairytale – minus the insane humidity. It gets crazy humid at night, and there’s no AC, so you just have to deal with it. Luckily, I fell asleep fast and didn’t wake up until the howler monkeys started their ungodly morning calls. 

Note that the bungalows are semi-shared, meaning you’ll have another group on the other side of a thin wall – we got lucky and had a friend over there, but you can hear everything, literally word for word. Be respectful unless you wanna annoy your neighbors, haha. There are private bathrooms though, with hot showers and flushable toilets! Although I actually preferred warm/cold showers because it was too damn hot and the cool water felt super refreshing (kinda like when I visited Croatia in August, whoops). 

WiFi & Electricity

There’s absolutely no cell service out here – it’s a true digital detox! WiFi is only available during meal times (early morning, 11 AM – 2 PM, and 5 – 10 PM), so don’t expect to be scrolling Instagram all day. Electricity is also limited to certain hours, mainly surrounding meal times, so that’s when you’ll want to charge your phone and camera batteries. 

Some rooms have working lights during those hours, but others don’t – hence the candles in each room. The lodge provides flashlights, but my friend also brought their own headlamp, which was a game-changer at night.

Activities to Immerse Yourself in the Amazon

One of the best things about staying at Tambopata Ecolodge is how much there is to do – no WiFi, no distractions, just pure jungle adventure. Whether you’re into hiking, wildlife spotting, or just taking in the sheer vastness of the Amazon, there’s something for everyone.

Just note that most days start at sunrise (or earlier!) because that’s when the animals are most active. We typically went on an early AM excursion, got back to the lodge around lunch time, ate and relaxed for a bit, then went out on an afternoon excursion before dinner. Night activities were offered as well!

Of course, nature doesn’t work on a schedule, so every experience is different. Come in with zero expectations and you’ll be amazed by the surprises the jungle has in store.

River Boat Tour

Gliding down the river felt like something out of a documentary. We saw caimans, capybaras (and tiny capybara babies!!!) chilling on the banks, bush turkeys, side-neck turtles sunbathing, red and green macaws, flying parakeets, herons, and even a horned screamer (which has to be one of the weirdest-sounding birds ever). Wish we had gotten lucky with a sloth sighting, but oh well!

Jungle Night Walk

Exploring the Amazon after dark is a whole different experience. With flashlights in hand, we followed our guide into the pitch-black jungle where we spotted massive spiders (including tarantulas and the infamous “chicken spider”), stick bugs camouflaged against branches, Amazon bamboo rats darting through the undergrowth, and endless trails of bullet ants and army ants. It’s kinda wild because you initially don’t see anything at all, and you need to look super closely.

And ohhh the sounds. Cicadas screaming, crickets chirping, and something rustling in the trees that I definitely didn’t want to meet. I have to admit, this was a little out of my comfort zone. It was pitch black – so dark I couldn’t even see my own hands in front of my face. Definitely not a place to wander off solo. And remember not to touch ANYTHING or stray from the group – some of the plants here can be just as dangerous as the wildlife! 

Stargazing

Since there’s practically zero light pollution, the night sky is insanely clear. Millions of stars, and even the Milky Way stretching across the sky – one of the most magical things I’ve ever seen.

Night Caiman Spotting

Drifting down the river in the dark (it was pitch black with zero light at all), our guide’s flashlight scanned the banks until – bam – a pair of glowing red eyes stared back at us. We spotted several white caimans, lurking in the shallows, completely still. Slightly eerie, but super cool. 

I will say this was a tad underwhelming until we saw the caimans; it definitely took a while to find and actually see any (it’s dark!). Since I was staring at the night sky and taking photos of the Milky Way… I honestly didn’t mind the wait too much (to say I was mesmerized by the night sky was a MASSIVE understatement). Floating on the river in total darkness, with the sky bursting with stars, was honestly just as magical as spotting the caimans themselves.

Hiking & Nature Walks

Whether you’re up for a short 2km stroll or a longer 12km trek, the hikes here are packed with Amazonian wonders. We saw giant ironwood trees, the towering ceiba tree, Brazil nut trees, strangler figs, dry wood termites, and leaf-cutting ants carrying leaves back to their underground nests. Oh, and a plant called “dead monkey fingers” – yes, that’s a real thing.

We even saw a tarantula emerging from its hole in the ground – our naturalist expertly lured it out, and we caught the entire interaction on camera… with the phone just inches away! Watching its hairy legs cautiously creep into the open was equal parts thrilling and nerve-wracking. So wild – it was such a surreal and adrenaline-pumping experience!

Prepare to get all hot and sticky – bring a lot of water and don’t feel like you need to do a long trek in order to see a lot. We only hiked a few miles and still saw lots!

Monkey Walk

We set out in the rainforest hoping to see some primates, and sure enough, we spotted a troop of red howler monkeys hanging out in the canopy. It took us a long while, and we almost didn’t see any at all. But at the last moment, we spotted quite a few and had an exciting time watching them jump around. You’ll want a super long zoom in order to capture them; the ones we saw were high in the treetops. Thankfully my friend managed to get a few shots, although they’re not the clearest, haha.

If you’re lucky, you might also see capuchins, dusky titi monkeys, spider monkeys, or squirrel monkeys swinging through the trees.

Swimming in the Nearby Creek

If you need to cool off from the jungle heat, there’s a refreshing little creek near the lodge where you can take a dip. It’s not exactly a luxury infinity pool, but after a humid day in the rainforest, it’s absolute heaven. 

Psst – I had heard there were leeches in the water, but a few of my group members went in and only said good things, and thankfully saw no leeches, but it may depend on the time of year. I’d ask the staff at the lodge their opinion before going in.

Other Activities in the Amazon near Puerto Maldonado

Note that activities vary by lodge, so I didn’t get the chance to do these myself – but they’re definitely on offer at many places in the Amazon.

Some of the more adventurous activities available at certain lodges include:

  • Canopy Walkway & Jungle Hike: Some lodges have towering canopy walkways, giving you a bird’s-eye view of the jungle. From up here, you might spot toucans, sloths, or even a curious monkey peering down at you.
  • Monkey Island: A few lodges visit islands where rescued monkeys roam freely. These little guys are known for their playful antics – and their sneaky attempts to snatch snacks!
  • Piranha Fishing: If you’re feeling bold, some lodges offer piranha fishing trips. From what I’ve heard, they bite fast, and in some places, they’ll even cook up your catch for you!

Would I have tried these if I had the chance? Maybe. (Okay, probably, haha).

Final Thoughts on the Peruvian Amazon

Would I do it again? No question. The Amazon is a place like no other—breathtaking, humbling, and yes, occasionally itchy. Next time, I’ll come armed with industrial-strength bug spray, a headlamp, and maybe a bit more mental preparation for those tarantulas.

Are you planning a trip to the Amazon anytime soon?!



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2022 Year in Review: The Year Life Kinda Got Back to Normal https://apassionandapassport.com/2022-year-in-review/ https://apassionandapassport.com/2022-year-in-review/#respond Tue, 10 Jan 2023 06:38:00 +0000 https://apassionandapassport.com/?p=25251 2022, over and out! Every January I document the previous year month by month — here’s my year in review for 2022! Bundle up, it’s a wild ride (and super wordy… that’s just my style). Another year has flown by! And boy did I pack this one in with tons and tons of travel (IContinue Reading

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2022, over and out! Every January I document the previous year month by month — here’s my year in review for 2022! Bundle up, it’s a wild ride (and super wordy… that’s just my style).

Another year has flown by! And boy did I pack this one in with tons and tons of travel (I traveled for roughly ⅓ of the year). No wonder why I’m so utterly exhausted! After 2 years of the world feeling mostly off-limits and difficult to access, I took advantage of this new found freedom. 

I finally visited a new country (Colombia!), a few old favorites (Portugal!, Italy!), and got in my groove of solo travel again. I visited my parents in their new home in North Carolina, watched my sister get married in NY, and spent a few weeks in Europe with my husband on his sabbatical. Fewer canceled trips, actual hugs with my friends and family, and tons more time living life sans mask. 

Looking back, it was a great year, and I’m so grateful for all the experiences 2022 brought me.

This is my TENTH year in review post on this blog, and it’s wild to me that I’ve been documenting my life and travels online for that long. I LOVE looking back at my life so these very personal and reflective posts are so special to my heart. 

→ Interested in seeing what I got up to in years past? Here are all my year in review posts: 2013 / 2014 / 2015 / 2016 / 2017 / 2018 / 2019 / 2020 / 2021

2022 by the Numbers

  • Countries Traveled To: 8 (USA, Mexico x2, Colombia, Italy, France, Netherlands, Portugal, Canada)
  • States Visited: 7 (California, Arizona, New York, South Carolina, North Carolina, Tennessee, Nevada x2)
  • Days On The Road: 124
  • Days Traveling Solo: 29
  • Beds Slept In: too many to count, haha
  • Flights Taken: 38 
  • Books Read: 39
  • Duolingo Streak: 226 days

After taking a huge hit financially from my blog the last few years (travel was at a halt because of Covid), income levels are finally rising again and 2022 was my most profitable year yet! Pretty damn proud of myself for not giving up and never losing hope despite all the struggles in 2020 and 2021. A Passion and A Passport is my side-hustle baby, and there’s no way I’d give it up even after a few stressful years. 

Let’s go — my 2022 year in review, coming right up!

January

We spent New Years Day at our favorite place in our area – Pacifica! I love to start off the year on a high note, so we took Kona on a short hike in the sunshine (boy do I love living in CA) and got in our steps.

The new year started off kinda rocky – I got a false positive Covid test so had to quarantine at home for 5 days. Not the worst thing in the world since I got to work from home for a week, but definitely unexpected (I had zero symptoms) and kinda stressful. 

It wasn’t all bad – I did a bunch of puzzles, perfected a Levain cookie recipe (OMG super droolworthy), and spent tons of time cuddling Kona, the perfect WFH companion.

ARIZONA 

As soon as my quarantine requirements were up, we flew to Phoenix for a long weekend. Why?! For Noah to run his second marathon in just two months, and guess what – he PR’ed – again! Always so motivated by his determination (although nothing will ever get me to want to run for enjoyment…). 

We also met up with a few cousins of mine who I hadn’t seen in forever, thoroughly explored the ASU campus (I swear, we walked around it tons), loved Papago Park and hiked to “the hole in the rock”, explored downtown Tempe and Old Town Scottsdale, and saw a whole bunch of fun murals!

It was a short weekend, but definitely nice to be in hot and sunny weather in January!

That very same weekend, my sister, Ali, and her bf Kevin got engaged in North Carolina! So special and exciting for them! So thrilled my sister found her person.

MEXICO CITY 

I make it my business to travel on my birthday every year, so when we found a great deal on flights, I knew we’d be heading back to CDMX for my 35th birthday! We loved this city last time we visited (back in 2018), so couldn’t wait to return (and of course eat all the things, because that’s what you do in Mexico City, haha). And that we did – we ate at 3 of the best restaurants in the city: Quintonil, Pujol, and our new favorite Sud 777.

Besides all the eating, we also went on a few Luis Barragán architecture tours — I was blown away; the houses he designed are absolutely spectacular and oh so unique and mesmerizing. Tons of color and impressive architectural elements.

We revisited a few CDMX favorites, like Casa Azul, Parque Espana, and churros at El Moro, and checked out a few new-to-us spots, like the stunning Palacio Postal, the super instagrammable Casa Olympia for drinks, and wandering the leafy streets of San Angel. 

But my favorite thing we did all week? Waking up before dawn to float above the pyramids in a hot air balloon at sunrise on my birthday! We lucked out with the most perfect weather and saw Teotithuacan from above – such a magical morning and a birthday experience I’ll remember forever. 

Plus, we somehow got upgraded to first class on the way back home to San Francisco! No complaints there!

February

HOME

We had a few weeks of GLORIOUS 70 degree weather, so I tried to really soak it all up! Still completely in awe of where I live, and feel so, so, grateful for year-round sun and beach time. 

We went hiking at Devil’s Slide (one of my favorite easy trails in Pacifica), walked atop the cliffs at Point Pillar Bluffs in Half Moon Bay, saw a spectacular sunset at Fort Funston (along with dozens of cute pups), and even went tide pooling at Mavericks! Still cannot believe just how many tiny hermit crabs, sea anemone, and starfish I found! So fun!

I also spent an afternoon hiking above Gray Whale Cove and then frolicking on the beach afterwards. We got soaked in the waves but it was so worth it. Totally felt like a little kid — I was so giddy! Find all my favorite hikes in Half Moon Bay here!

NEW YORK

Next up – a long weekend of celebrations in NY! My sister’s engagement, brother-in-law’s birthday, their dating anniversary, and my birthday!

The weekend was filled with lots of movie nights and singalongs cuddling in the snuggle room, and spending a day out east in Greenport, listening to live music and watching dancing dogs at a brewery, sipping some sparkling rose at a gorgeous winery, and eating the smallest lobster roll known to man (true story, haha).

I got to see a lot of family/friends including my hysterical 97-year old grandma – love that little lady so much! Later on in the month Ali asked me to be her maid of honor (of course I said yes!).

The rest of February was a blur as we were navigating through some family things and trying to help as much as we could. <3

March

HOME

We saw Harry Potter on Broadway (which was great but unfortunately way too long), and visited my SIL and niece/nephew in Nevada City for a weekend (got to spend time with my in-laws too).

The horrific war between Ukraine and Russia caused gas prices to rise to over $6(!!!) in parts of the Bay – definitely not a good time for a long road trip!

MONTEREY AND CARMEL 

We snuck in a little beachy weekend trip to Monterey and Carmel, which we always forget is only 1 ½ hours south of us! We did a short coastal walk to Calla Lily Valley (something that’s been on my California bucket list for years), watched Kona play in the sand at Garrapata Beach, I hiked around Point Lobos and saw the most stunning turquoise waters and even a few cute harbor seals, walked around the storybook village of Carmel-By-The-Sea (my favorite!), and enjoyed a few pastries from the best cafes. 

I also randomly discovered the super-decked out Butterfly House (whoa!), and we took a super-long walk in Pacific Grove on the waterfront. To say we love this little area is a huge understatement… OH! We also had such a fun night at the coastal-chic Inn at Spanish Bay (along the 17 Mile Drive), watching the sunset while listening to the bagpiper and sipping drinks!

We absolutely love this area and I can see us making plenty of day trips here as the year continues (especially to see the pink ice plants bloom in summer!)

COLOMBIA  

And then we were off to Colombia – our first big adventure of 2022 and first new country in almost 3 years!

Besides spending SO much time in airports (our flight from Medellin to Cartagena was delayed 25 hours, yes TWENTY FIVE hours, and then we spent a 7-hour layover at the airport in Panama), we thoroughly enjoyed Colombia. Such a diverse and misunderstood country.

Medellin 

First stop in Colombia – Medellin! We checked out so many hip coffee bars while wandering around the trendy neighborhood of El Poblado, tried a crazy amount of exotic fruits on a market tour (ohhh we both loved lulos and granadillas and uchuvas), and had delicious rooftop cocktails complete with views of the whole city. 

Learning about the history and transformation of the Comuna 13 neighborhood was super powerful, and I’m glad we got to dive deep into the complex history. Of course we used the iconic escalators of the neighborhood, checked out the trippy Casa Neon, and took photos with all the fun murals in the area.

Guatape 

Ohhh – I loved this colorful little town so much! It kinda reminded me a tad of Guanajuato and Bacalar mixed into one (ok fine, just a little bit…). Guatape’s got its own unique charm, and we spent our two days there taking long walks along the lake and wandering the town so many times (finding new houses to photograph every few steps)! 

We trekked up the Guatape Rock (El Penol) for insane views of the lakes, and then got stuck in a wild Colombian thunderstorm on the way down! The steps were completely flooded and of course we got soaked… when in Colombia! Finding the empanada lady everyone raves about was another highlight (yes, more food!).

Cartagena 

Our last few days of our Colombia itinerary were spent in Cartagena – a port city I’d recently heard so much about. I don’t think we were prepared for the intense heat and humidity, and we ended up utterly exhausted from dripping all weekend but we loved the colonial city of Cartagena. 

So much charm on the cobblestone streets, and you betcha I took loads of photos of the colorful houses and doors draped with the prettiest pink bougainvillea.

We spent a morning at the fort, checked out the street art in Getsemani, sipped rooftop cocktails at sunset, relaxed at our gorgeous hotel pools, walked the city walls, and overall reveled in laid-back Caribbean life. I would totally come back here for a week or so. 

Cartagena surprised me with its foodie scene – we had a few too many latte frios, limonada de cocos, and pisco sours, indulged in cheesy street arepas and pandebonos, ate way too much exotic fruit, and had our best two meals of the trip at Carmen Cartagena and Alma (in the stunning Casa San Agustin). I even wrote an entire post on my favorite restaurants in Cartagena!

April

Once we got back from our whirlwind of a trip to Colombia, we had a few relaxing weekends full of Indian buffets, rotating sushi meals, and playing mini golf at Urban Putt (never heard of it? Be sure to check out my post on hidden gems in San Francisco).

We spent a lot of April planning our big summer Europe trip, with me constantly changing destinations and finally making a decision on where we’d go (spoiler — we spent the summer basking in the sun in Italy and the French Riviera with a mini side trip to Amsterdam).

NASHVILLE 

After canceling our trip to Nashville last September (Covid cases were spiking like crazy), I was so excited to finally make it to Tennessee – a brand new state for me! 

We went to Nashville for Noah to run the half marathon, and surprise, surprise, he PRed again – 1:55! 

Went to allll the murals so I could create my Nashville photo spots post (my fav were the candy hearts), stayed at the most instagrammable hotel in all of Nashville — the Graduate, decorated with all things Dolly Parton, and of course ate a whole lot of hot chicken, biscuits, grits, and even hush puppies (with the best meal of our trip at Husk; run, don’t walk).

Our Nashville itinerary included checking out the Country Music Hall of Fame (fun to learn about the evolution of country music), exploring a bunch of trendy neighborhoods, and listening to lots of live music at Tootsies and other spots on South Broadway.

One main highlight – seeing a few friends we hadn’t seen since before the pandemic (heyaaa Jay and Carol)! Plus, back at home, Kona went SWIMMING (those videos our friend sent us were a true 2022 highlight for us!).

May

May ended up being a semi-quiet month for us. We drove up to Nevada City again and spent the weekend with my favorite niece and nephew, baking, playing at the park, and hanging out. 

LAS VEGAS for Lovers and Friends Fest 

After falling in love with Usher’s residency back in August 2021, we somehow scored tickets to the highly anticipated Lovers and Friends Fest. Which meant, back to Vegas we went for our very first festival! The entire show was a total 90s throwback, and I loved every second of it (besides almost passing out from the intense heat and lack of available water…). 

There was a surprise guest appearance by Snoop Dog, and great performances by tons of my favorite artists (including Neyo, TLC, Frankie J, Juvenile, Mario, 112, Pretty Ricky, The Dream, etc). Ohhhh my high school years… 

But the end was a completely different story – there was a wild and super scary stampede (talks of a gunshot). I literally almost got trampled. Thank god Noah picked me up and we ran for our lives, then walked a few miles down Las Vegas Boulevard back to our hotel. Meaning we never got to see Usher after all 😩, but we were too hyped on adrenaline and nerves to fully process the events at the time. A truly horrifying moment.

Besides the festival, we splashed around at our first ever Vegas pool party! So much fun in the cabana with a semi-private pool for Em’s 40th! We also had fresh pasta in Eataly, a delicious dinner at Best Friend, and drinks at Chandelier Bar (like always, haha). 

Other foodie stand outs were the insane cake shake, spiked dole whip at the Cosmo pool, Secret Pizza, and Eggslut (we can’t NOT go). Thankfully we burned off some of our indulgences by walking/dancing over 25 miles over the course of the 2 days (that’s ~62k steps in 2 days!).

COVID 

Covid finally caught up to us in May, after TWO years of avoiding it! Noah tested positive and felt like shit, most likely getting it from either the festival or wild pool party in Vegas. Could’ve predicted that! I somehow didn’t get it from him…!

Unfortunately we had to cancel a whole bunch of fun weekend plans, including a dinner experience we had booked FOUR months earlier. Ugh, go away Covid! I made pierogi that weekend (which took freaking 6 hours), watched a whole bunch of trashy TV, and got to work on a few blog posts. He thankfully started feeling better a few days later and tested negative (!!!) shortly after. 

And then Monkeypox became a thing and we had our first case in California — WTF. And the school shooting in Texas. And the baby formula shortage. Ugh!

SONOMA 

We finished up the month with a little day trip up north to Sonoma, and I totally forgot how much I love it up here! Pretending we were in Tuscany for the day, sipping our wines looking out at the views was the perfect way to welcome summer.

June

HOME

Lots of celebrations at home this month! We started with a delicious steak dinner at Mastro’s in SF for Noah’s birthday and then celebrated our TEN year anniversary with a fancy dinner at RH a week later. 

But the best news?! The requirement for negative Covid tests to return back to the US went away!!! Just in time for our big summer trip. I also hit 5 million impressions on Mediavine, which was such a victory after my traffic took a complete nose dive in 2020 and 2021 due to COVID.

But there was some seriously depressing news as well. The Supreme Court overturned Roe v Wade; just proving once again how much our country is moving backwards. What a horrific day for women’s rights. Seriously America, WTF?!

WILMINGTON, NORTH CAROLINA 

As soon as my school year was over, I finally made it to North Carolina where my parents moved last year! We hung out at the pool, walked in the lazy river, explored downtown Wilmington, got famous ice cream at Kilwins, walked along the waterfront, and saw carnivorous plants in the wild (which I found utterly fascinating).

We took day trips to SouthPort (the cutest town where tons of cheesy romances were filmed) and New Bern (home of Pepsi Cola and the Tyron Palace). It was so nice to relax a bit and spend lots of quality time with my parents and see their new home (I freaking love it and am so glad they’re having the best time in retirement). Such a great move for them.

CHARLESTON, SOUTH CAROLINA

I drove down to Charleston for a few days with my parents, a city I’ve been wanting to check out for so long! Before Charleston, we stopped in Myrtle Beach on the way, and checked out the colorful Broadway on the Beach and strolled on the beach boardwalk for a bit. 

It was absolutely sweltering in the South, but worth it for the Charleston charm.

Besides literally dripping in the scorching heat and getting stung by a massive bee, we had a great time. We indulged in shrimp and grits, biscuits, sweet tea, and other Lowcountry favorites. We explored all the typical Charleston favorites, like the Battery at sunset, the Pineapple fountain, Charleston City Market, and walked down King Street and all the pretty little alleyways.

We saw tons of gorgeous homes in the South Broad neighborhood (including of course Rainbow Row and all the pretty doors on Tradd Street). We learned about the enslaved Gullah people at The Boone Plantation, and admired all the Spanish moss on famous oak avenue.  We took a harbor boat tour to escape the heat, and saw Fort Sumter from afar. I wrote an entire post on our weekend in Charleston – it’s such a charming little city and I can’t wait to go back!

It was so sad saying goodbye to my parents — so grateful for the full week of uninterrupted quality time with them! 

VENICE 

Finally, after planning for months and months, we were off on our 3-week European adventure! And our first stop? Venice!

We didn’t particularly fall in love with Venice, but still had a great time (despite Noah’s bag getting lost on the way and ending up in GHANA!). Highlights included indulging in take away boxed pasta, authentic Italian pizza in bed, and creamy gelato overlooking the canals. We wandered around such charming (yet busy) streets and alleyways, walked up the Campanile Tower for amazing views over Venice, and admired all the Italian architecture and views.

But my favorite part of Venice – heading over to Burano for a morning, which I fell head over heels for the second we arrived! It looked like we stepped into a rainbow of color, with every single house painted so bright and cheery! I was in heaven! Touristy but such a locals spot as well. Highly recommend wandering around for a morning/afternoon.

July 

CINQUE TERRE

Next up on our European rendezvous – Cinque Terre! We had the most amazing 3 days in Cinque Terre, watching the sunset all 4 nights and eating as much trofie al pesto as we could get our hands on (plus spritz’s and lemon sodas and local wine and allll the gelatos).

We watched sunset on the rocks with a pizza picnic in Riomaggiore, learned how to make authentic pesto in Manarola, hiked to spectacular viewpoints in Vernazza, wandered tiny Corniglia with focaccia in hand, and spent a day at the beach under iconic umbrellas in Monterosso. Each town was so colorful and similar yet different in their own way.

I saw all 5 towns from the water on a local’s boat (hello Palao!), and swam in the crystal clear Mediterranean water. Times like this I cannot believe life is real. 

I desperately loved these tiny towns on the Italian coastline, and miss our time there so badly! Minus all the hills and stairs — got almost 20k steps every day!

One of the best parts?! Noah got his bag back — after going all the way to Venice and back for the day! Quite the 15 hour journey/adventure, but well worth it! I had myself a solo day!

PROVENCE 

We then made our way over to France, with Noah’s bag in tow (thankfully)! We explored so many charming villages and tiny alleyways, including L’isle-Sur-La-Sorgue, Moustiers, Roussillon, Gordes, Valensole, Fontaine de Vaucluse, Aix-en-Provence, and Saignon. Market days were insane! The countryside wasn’t our favorite, but I think that’s because we’re just coastal people!

Highlights included running through the lavender fields (at both sunrise and sunset) — we were visiting at peak bloom, how could we not?! Bucket list check! 

Renting a paddle boat at Verdon Gorge was another favorite – I swear the scene was straight outta a movie (and the water looked just like Gatorade!). Another bucket list check!

We finally made our way to the coast, spending time in Marseilles and Cassis, including a day out on the water checking out the limestone cliffs of the Calanques, admiring all the fancy yachts, and seeing the riviera from above via insane viewpoints. 

FRENCH RIVIERA 

To say we LOVED our time in the Côte d’Azur is a massive understatement. We split our time in Cannes and Nice, taking lots of day trips from each. Our days were filled with bougie lunches at beach clubs, renting umbrellas for afternoon swims, exploring the old town of Cannes, popping over to Antibes for a solo morning, and spending a day on a private boat ride with friends and getting pizza and mojitos delivered by boat! Such a unique experience.

In Nice, we took the train over to Menton (to eat all the lemon things), Monaco (where we checked out the F1 racetrack and iconic casino), Villefrance-Sur-Mer (my favorite little seaside town to date!), and Villa Ephrussi (with its pink ornate building and gorgeous gardens). We also walked tons along the water, explored the main squares, and got tons and tons of gelato and spritz! The best few days.

AMSTERDAM 

Amsterdam was our last official stop on our European summer! Our original flight from Nice got canceled so we ended up with an extra half day in Amsterdam, which was a nice surprise. 

We spent a full day and a half eating pancakes, takeaway frites, loaded baked potatoes, stroopwafels, cheese samples, famous chocolate cookies (seriously rivaling our favorite in NYC), and an authentic Dutch dinner. We wandered around the picturesque canals and admired all the architecture, relaxed at the Damrak, smelled the tulips at the flower market, and took an impromptu canal ride. 

But my favorite afternoon in Amsterdam? Visiting the Anne Frank House, and stepping foot in the secret annex where the Frank family hid out during the war (honestly one of the most impactful experiences of my life to date). Highly recommend adding a visit to your Amsterdam itinerary, even if you’ve only got a day or so!

LISBON 

After 4 days at home, yes FOUR, (and watching two good friends get married – heya Bella and Grant!), I flew back to Europe to start my 2-week solo trip to Portugal! First stop — Lisbon!

Throughout my few days in Lisbon, I snacked on about a dozen egg tarts at various pastelerias, took photos on the insta-famous pink street, burned off all those pastries walking uphill to all the miradouros, and wandered around the charming neighborhoods of Alfama and Barrio Alto.  

I spent an entire day feeding my gluttonous self — with a trendy breakfast, pasteis de nata baking class, fudgy chocolate cake (the best!), and a food and wine tour! 

I took a day trip to beachy Cascais (with a stop at the LX factory and in Belem beforehand), and fulfilled all my fairytale dreams during a long day trip to Sintra, exploring Peña Palace (twice), Quinta de Regalia, Montserrat Palace, and Sintra Town. Finally get what all the fuss is about!

August

PORTO

It didn’t take long for me to fall in love with Porto. All of 10 minutes to be exact. Didn’t hurt that I was staying in the cutest apartment, and stumbled upon the prettiest viewpoint (hardly mentioned anywhere!) on my first afternoon. I loved the city and its local vibe, maybe even more so than Lisbon, shh!

During my 3 days in Porto, I learned all about Port on a wine and cave tour (tawny was my clear favorite), stumbled upon a whole bunch of viewpoints, watched the sunset every night across the river, checked out as many beautiful blue tiles in Porto as I possibly could, indulged in a famous Porto hot dog and francesinha, wandered the city on a photo walk with a local photographer, and just wandered the tiny streets. 

I also managed to finally make it over to Costa Nova and Aveiro — two spots that have been on my Portugal bucket list for quite some time! I wandered around town, stopping at every single colorful striped house (haha), trying some local treats, and of course taking a boat ride on the famous Aveiro river. So much fun!

ALGARVE

I swear, I had the best few days of my life down by the beaches in southern Portugal. I could not believe all the views — each one more amazing than the last! Easily one of the most scenic landscapes I’ve seen in my life… missing southern Portugal already!

One of my favorite days was hiking along the coast (on the Seven Hanging Valleys Trail), admiring all the wild rock formations from above and ending the day with sunset petiscos overlooking the gorgeous Marinha de Praia.

I spent another day wandering a different section of the coast, checking out all the beaches on the Lagos Peninsula and treating myself to a fancy meal of grilled octopus with a sunset view.

I spent my Algarve mornings on speedboats and catamarans, exploring both Ponta de Piedade and Benagil Cave, hanging at the beaches searching for seashells, and eating as much seafood as I could.

I also loved my afternoon in Albufeira — wandering the picturesque beaches, exploring the whitewashed Old Town, all while taking tons of photos of course. Being by the beach and on Portuguese boats for almost a straight week was so up my alley.

HOME

Back to work it was… summer break was over! I started another school year literally the day after I landed home from Portugal. It was kinda hectic and I was downright exhausted, but I pushed through! 

We then celebrated a few birthdays — had a 30th bday outdoor movie night for a friend which was so fun, and drove over to Nevada City to celebrate my niece turning 6 the day after! We also saw Thomas Rhett in concert, a show that was canceled in (the non-existent) Summer 2020.

September

SANTA BARBARA

We always love heading down the coast, so we decided to spend Labor Day Weekend in Santa Barbara! First, we made a quick pit stop in Solvang, the cutest little Dutch town (although it was way too hot to actually enjoy it).

Once in Santa Barbara, we spent the weekend on busy State Street, indulging in $10 coffee drinks (delish), tiki drinks in the Funk Zone, and so much good food (tried a whole bunch of new-to-us restaurants, like Secret Bao and Flor de Maiz). We walked along the beaches, watched sunsets from the pier, and ate delicious tri-tip sandwiches off the side of the road at Cold Spring Tavern. 

Major highlight of the weekend was spontaneously seeing two of our good friends who we hadn’t seen in almost a year! We love ya Lena and Bassam + co! And staying at the oldest and most beautiful Motel 6 in the country; no joke, it kinda felt like a cute boutique hotel.

Besides the scorching hot weather (it was in the 100s almost the whole time…), we had such a great weekend. As we always do in SB! We even ran into Andy Buckley (from the office!) at the Kimpton!

NEW YORK

Time for some bridal festivities – Ali’s Bridal Shower and Bachelorette Party in NY! After planning for months (and months), we finally got to celebrate my sister for the weekend! And what a huge success it was!

First up — the bachelorette party! We had a delicious boozy brunch with a perfect view of the water, indulging in so much good food and taking tons of fun pics. An afternoon pampering ourselves at Sojo Spa was next (!!!). I couldn’t believe how huge the place was — 4 levels of saunas, hot tubs, foot massages, ice rooms, a freaking sand pit, and even an infinity pool overlooking the Manhattan skyline! 

We stayed in our robes the entire day (what a dream!), sipped on berry smoothies, and hopped around between all the saunas and pools. What a perfect day of relaxation and celebrating my sister with such a great group of girls! I swear, my sister has the bestest of friends.

Next day was the bridal shower — full of fun shower games, a delicious buffet meal, and the most adorable custom sugar cookies around! It was so nice to see tons of family and meet a whole bunch of my sister’s friends! Next stop, the wedding in December!

HOME

While at home, we saw Dave Matthews Band in concert (such a good show), spent a day in Sonoma wine tasting with new friends at MaCrostie Vineyards (oh so gorgeous!), and I got into Mediavine Pro, which means I get to keep more of my ad revenue!

October

Beginning of the month was pretty low-key, which was a-okay by me after such a busy summer and start to fall. I saw Moulin Rouge on Broadway – so fun and one of the best shows I’ve seen so far!

We went all out and attempted to do as many fall things as we could! Went apple picking in Morgan Hill, took fun photos at the pumpkin patches, ate warm apple pie and sipped on fresh cider, spent a day at Great America on the roller coasters (for their festive fall event), and hung out with friends at Oktoberfest!

I also signed up with an online coach/trainer, and am so proud of myself for getting my butt in gear and finally working on my health/nutrition. After gaining a few Covid pounds, I definitely didn’t feel like my best self so decided it was finally time to take action. Almost back to my pre-Covid weight after a few short months → so proud of myself!

Also – Noah accepted and started a new job at an amazing company — such a great opportunity for him and I’m thrilled he’s so ecstatic about it!

LAS VEGAS for USHER! 

After the catastrophe of Lovers and Friends back in May, I knew we needed to go back to Vegas to see Usher again (just like we did last year!). While we both admit his show was infinitely times better the first time around, it’s never not fun seeing Usher in Vegas.

We spent the weekend checking out new fancy cocktail bars, eating at our fave foodie spots (if you haven’t had stone crabs at Joes, go now), and spending time with one of our fave friends we hadn’t seen in a while! We also re-explored a bunch of hotels on the strip we hadn’t been to in forever, and I got some cute pics for my Las Vegas photo spots post! Coming soon!

HOPE VALLEY, CALIFORNIA

Continuing our season of fall fun, we drove over to Hope Valley with hopes of seeing all the fall colors famous in this area! There ended up being a snowstorm a week prior, meaning all the gorgeous aspens at the hotel were gone, but we still had an amazing time staying at the woodsy chic Wylder Hotel. 

We literally stayed in a real-life log cabin, wood-burning fire stove and all (which was an experience in and of itself to light). So chill and relaxing and just so fun hanging in the log cabin with Kona – he did so great and was such a great little adventure buddy!

Although we visited at the very tail end of fall foliage, we managed to find some pretty yellow aspens closer to Tahoe, and went on a bunch of chilly walks by the lake and through the trees. 

November

Again, our November was pretty chill, exploring closer to home and taking some time to relax. One weekend we went down to the redwoods in Los Gatos and checked out all the fall colors, while we ventured over to Santa Cruz another weekend for a gorgeous (yet very windy) coastal hike (which honestly kinda reminded me of the Algarve in Portugal!). We also snuck into SF for a day, and then both got our Covid bi-valent boosters a few days later which we were especially happy about!

BANFF NATIONAL PARK 

After visiting Banff THREE times (even once in winter), it was time to finally show Noah around! And lemme just say — Banff in November was all kinda magical. We walked on a frozen Lake Louise, roasted marshmallows over the fire with views of the mountains, and had high tea with a perfect view of the frozen lake and glacier. A true winter wonderland!

It was so fun finally staying at all the hotels I’ve gawked at for years (Fairmont Lake Louise, Fairmont Banff Springs, and Emerald Lake Lodge). We watched a gorgeous sunset with the mountain peaks reflecting in the one wet spot of Emerald Lake → one of our favorite experiences of the trip. 

We took the gondola up for spectacular views of all the mountain peaks, and had a delicious lunch at Sky Bistro. On our last day we checked out the Banff Christmas markets, hung out at the outdoor hot tub, and of course indulged in a beavertail, 3-course fondue dinner, and lots of hot chocolate/hot cider!

We relaxed SO much, which is not like us at all. We spent time reading by the fire in our cabin, eating dessert in bed, sipping Christmas blend tea, and eating our tiny finger sandwiches while watching the fluffiest snow fall with views of the mountains. So peaceful and relaxing.  

To say we lucked out with the weather is a massive understatement — lots of blue skies and then fresh SNOW (and thankfully made it safely out of a wild snowstorm back to Calgary). Such a great winter trip, and I hope we can revisit sometime in the future together.

December

Before an exceptionally busy December, we saw Adam Sandler live at the CHASE Center in SF and it was one of the most hilarious shows we’ve ever seen. Always forget how much I enjoy seeing my favorite people on stage! 

ALI AND KEVIN’S WEDDING WEEKEND!

We headed back to NY for an extended long weekend – this time for my sister’s wedding! I swear, she was the most stunning bride.

The bridal party started getting ready at 5am in the bridal suite, and despite the early wake up call, we all had a blast getting our hair and makeup done and busting out in random dance parties. We’ve got the photos to prove it!

Ali and Kevin planned such a gorgeous wedding, complete with fried Oreos, a mini Hank statue on the wedding cake, and the sweetest, most heartwarming ceremony. And thankfully, despite all my nerves, I totally crushed my maid of honor speech!

Overall, such an amazing weekend spending so much quality time with my family (immediate and extended) at both the wedding and before/after. <3 And plus, we got upgraded to DeltaOne on our flight home which was a nice surprise after a weekend of non stop partying!

MEXICO

Just 4 days after getting home from NY, I was off to Mexico for winter break! Like most solo trips these days, it always takes a lot of effort and motivation for me to get on that plane. But once I get there and get back into my groove, I end up having the best time. That’s EXACTLY what happened with Mexico.

I fell in love with the Yucatan Peninsula, and I ended up staying for a full 2 weeks instead of only 1, haha! I packed in a whole bunch of epic spots, including Merida, Valladolid, Chichen Itza, Izamal, Rio Lagartos, Bacalar, and Tulum! Busy but somehow kinda relaxing too!

Merida 

Merida was my first stop on my solo trip around the Yucatan Peninsula. And I loved it – spent my days wandering the colorful streets around Plaza Grande and the chic Paseo Montejo, tried my first (but not last) marquesita, and stayed at an all-pink hotel (and obviously took way too many photos of it).

I indulged in authentic market foods (like cochinita pibil salbutes and carnita tacos) from stands I would have never found myself on a Mérida local food tour (plus agua frescas, sweet corn helado, and so much al pastor). 

Joining a cenote tour last minute was one of the most magical mornings of my life. Floating in the middle of the turquoise Cenote, looking up at the sky, with only the other 2 people on my tour plus our guide, is something I’ll never forget. Most cenotes are crazy crowded, so when it was just us, that made the experience all that more special. Plus the lunch we shared in a local Mayan’s house alongside her family was spectacular, and I can easily say her salbutes were the best I had all trip. 

Valladolid 

After a low-key few days in Merida, I headed over to Valladolid where I did oh so much! I learned all about the Mayans at both Chichen Itza and Ek Balam (both super impressive and wildly different experiences), gawked at flamingos and crocodiles during our boat ride on Rio Lagartos, marveled at the all-pink lake at Las Coloradas, cooled off at yet another cenote, and explored the yellow town of Izamal. Despite crazy long days, I met the best people and had the best time. <3

In Valladolid itself, I spent lots of time in the main square, going shopping, people-watching, and loving the churros rellenos. I ended my time in Valladolid with a visit to Instagram-worthy Cenote Suytun, another bucket list check for me! 

Bacalar 

Bacalar is a place I had never even heard of until I was in Valladolid, haha. And my trip down to Bacalar was super spontaneous. My flight home from Cancun was canceled, so instead of dealing with the holiday airline messes, I decided to extend my stay in Mexico for a week (could be way worse, right?).

It was my first time showing up to a place having done very minimal research — which was all kinds of exhilarating, stressful, and fun. I took the long 5-hour bus ride down to Bacalar and met up with a friend I recently met in Valladolid; we had such a great time together and can’t wait to meet up elsewhere in the world in 2023!

Bacalar was hardly touristy and despite some unexpected rain, we loved the tiny town. The main highlights were heading out on a boat to see the 7 colors of the lagoon (ain’t called the Maldives of Mexico for nothing!), floating down Los Rapidos (too much fun), spending an afternoon relaxing at a beach club, and surprisingly having so much good food. Highly recommend heading down to Bacalar if you’re interested in experiencing a lesser-known, yet just as beautiful part of Mexico. 

Tulum 

I ended my extra-long stay in Mexico with a trip to Tulum, a place I’d been wanting to explore for a while despite the wild over-tourism.

I spent my last two days in Mexico exploring Tulum Pueblo, relaxing at the beach with some fish tacos, wandering around the Tulum Ruins, walking up and down the hotel strip, and staring at that turquoise blue sea for far too long on crazy long beach walks.

Despite staying next to a nightclub that blasted music until 4am and dealing with overpriced taxis, it was way better than I expected (although definitely overrated and overpriced). Would I go back? Not anytime soon, but regardless, it was a great end to my unexpected 2 weeks in Mexico!

I got home from Mexico at 9pm on New Year’s Eve… just in time to kiss my husband at midnight! While we didn’t have much time to ring in the new year, we celebrated with some champagne, peanut butter cheesecake, and couch snuggles with Kona. Didn’t wanna miss saying goodbye to 2022 without my little family by my side. <3

Phew – that’s my 2022! Happy New Year, and here’s to a productive, fun-filled 2023!

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The Best Restaurants in Cartagena: All The Delicious Things I Ate in Cartagena, Colombia https://apassionandapassport.com/best-restaurants-in-cartagena-colombia/ https://apassionandapassport.com/best-restaurants-in-cartagena-colombia/#comments Sat, 21 May 2022 03:48:23 +0000 https://apassionandapassport.com/?p=23457 Headed to Colombia and looking for the best restaurants in Cartagena? You’re in luck – I compiled everything we ate in this charming colonial city. And heads up, it was all absolutely delicious.  The restaurants in Cartagena really surprised me — in the best way possible. I had no clue what a culinary gem thisContinue Reading

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Headed to Colombia and looking for the best restaurants in Cartagena? You’re in luck – I compiled everything we ate in this charming colonial city. And heads up, it was all absolutely delicious. 

The restaurants in Cartagena really surprised me — in the best way possible. I had no clue what a culinary gem this colorful little city is! Cartagena’s really got it all – from no-frills food carts to elegant and sophisticated fine dining with 7-course meals. Complete with all the arepas, empanadas, patacones, and fresh fruit you can imagine.

The food scene here in Cartagena is absolutely exploding! And I’m all for it.

I’ve recently become a bit obsessed with finding the best restaurants/food in the destinations I travel to. Poke and malasadas and loco moco in Hawaii. Coconut ice cream and pad thai in Thailand. Michelin star chilaquiles and churros con chocolate in Mexico City. Pizza and bagels and cheesecake and pastrami in New York City. The list goes on….and on and on and on.

→ Read Next: 33 Charming Things to do in Cartagena!

I guess you can call me a newly-discovered foodie! Does anyone else browse Eater.com for the fun of it?! Can’t just be me! 

I mean who doesn’t enjoy eating on vacation? I know I do! With that being said, I’m very particular about what and where I eat – I wanna eat the best things in the area of course!

So when I was traveling to Colombia, I did my fair share of research on the best restaurants in Cartagena! Who knew there was SO. MUCH. GOOD. FOOD?! You can totally plan a trip to Cartagena just for the restaurants and bars alone! I definitely had to prioritize as I unfortunately couldn’t try every spot on my list. That just means I need a return trip, right?! I think yes! 

Let’s get to it – here’s my ultimate list of best restaurants in Cartagena… with some street food and cocktails thrown in for good measure!

Best Restaurants in Cartagena

There’s a whole slew of amazing restaurants in Cartagena — this list is only the tip of the iceberg. And I wasn’t even able to make it to all these spots! Too much good food! If you’re only visiting Cartagena for 3 days or so, I’d prioritize Alma, Buena Vida, and Carmen. And all the street food and snacks below. And the fruit and the juices… and at least a few limonadas de cocos.

Buena Vida Marisquería

From the moment I saw this place, I KNEW it’d be one of my favorite restaurants in Cartagena! Why? Besides the fancy Caribbean design and relaxed atmosphere, the food just looked absolutely amazing! Like, you know when you see dishes and just know they’re gonna be good? That was here. Patacones, shrimp tacos, ceviche tostadas, Caribbean lobster…. Mmmm. 

Such a colorful and hip restaurant in the center of Cartagena! Everything on the menu looked fantastic – it was super hard to choose. We ended up going with the fried calamari, seafood bisque arepas (made out of pink cornmeal!), and lobster mac n cheese. 

All delicious flavors of Cartagena! If you’ve got some room, try the grilled octopus and lemme know how it was – I desperately wanted to try this but I was already stuffed! 

And I just loved the colorful design of the space, as well as the plating and fun drinks! The different cocktails come in their own unique glasses – some in a seashell (yes, a shell!), the margaritas come with cute little Mexican hats on them, and some with balls of tamarind as a garnish.

The vibe was so fun; definitely make a reservation for their balcony seating upstairs – I’m so sad we missed out.   

Carmen Cartagena

This wouldn’t be a complete list of restaurants in Cartagena without mentioning Carmen. It was by far the best meal of our trip after all! And no, I’m not exaggerating. Contemporary Colombian cuisine with a global twist!

Every damn dish was pure perfection. I’m still talking about it to this day – I swear it rivals the tasting menus we’ve had in Mexico City, and that’s saying something since those are in the Top 50 restaurants in the world! 

At Carmen, you’ve got the option to order a la carte or indulge in their 7-course tasting menu…. I think you know what we chose! We savored perfectly cooked sea bass with creamy risotto, melt-in-your-mouth chicharron (pork belly), and even a great posta negra Cartagenera. And the grilled octopus… OMG, drool. The portions are a decent size, and we definitely felt full after our meal. 

Plus, the space is super chic and timeless, set in an intimate colonial house. We chose to sit indoors (the AC was calling our name), but if you can tolerate the heat better than we can, the outdoor terrace is absolutely gorgeous. Those tiles are super swoonworthy!!! That lush, open-air courtyard – exactly what my dreams are made of!

Carmen was by far the most expensive Cartagena restaurant of our trip, but I’d gladly pay again for the meal! Definitely make a reservation (especially if you wanna come for dinner) as this place gets busy! We chose to have lunch here since we knew it’d be nice to get outta the sun for a bit.

Easily one of my favorite restaurants in Cartagena for both food and presentation alike! There’s a reason everyone raves about it! Make your reservation now!

Alma Cartagena

Another one of my favorite restaurants here in Cartagena! Have a leafy green lunch at Alma, inside the insta-popular Casa San Agustin Hotel. The restaurant is open to the public for both lunch and dinner, and guests of the hotel have the option for breakfast there as well! 

I admit I initially wanted to have lunch here so I could check out the pool…. But I swear the meal itself was worthy without all the glitz and glam of the hotel. Not staying at Casa San Agustin but still wanna check out the property? Make a reservation for the restaurant, haha. 

You’ll need to pass by the pool area to get to the bathroom…. No harm in taking a quick peek and a few photos, right?! No one seemed upset by my presence – I definitely overstayed my welcome, soaking up the atmosphere and taking photos from plenty of angles, haha.

Besides being one of the most instagrammable places in Cartagena, the food was spot on! Everything we ordered was delicious – lobster empanadas, avocado ceviche, grilled octopus, all of it! I so wish we tried the coconut dessert but we were way too full.

Now onto the drinks! I loved my vodka watermelon cocktail and my husband raved about his lime gin and tonic – super refreshing on a hot day. We couldn’t believe just how extensive the gin and tonic menu was (it nearly took up an entire page if I remember correctly)!

We opted to sit outside (it was our first day in Cartagena and didn’t realize just how humid it was), but the courtyard was gorgeous with its striped umbrellas and greenery hanging from the balconies. Sophisticated, posh, and upscale! Come early and grab a table by the pool! Although you’ll definitely wanna make sure you eat in the shade.

If you wanna eat inside, don’t worry. The dining room is absolutely gorgeous, with tons of natural light and bespoke chandeliers. This is easily the best restaurant in Cartagena if you’re looking to take some insta-worthy food photos, and love chic and timeless vibes.

La Cevicheria

Wondering which restaurants in Cartagena have the best ceviche? La Cevicheria is easily the most popular! Why?! Because Anthony Bourdain said so! 

I’m so sad we missed this place (it was randomly closed the day we planned on going). The Peruvian ceviche, lobster paella, and grilled seafood tower for two sound absolutely delicious though!

So follow in the footsteps of Bourdain and have a meal (or two!) here at La Cevicheria. The spot was actually featured in his Colombia episode of No Reservations in 2008, which makes perfect sense because it’s got everything that Tony looks for in a restaurant! Delicious food, laid back decor, a friendly chef, and of course interesting local dishes! 

What was once a little-known spot is now super famous after all its publicity. So yup, that translates to lots of hungry customers! If there’s a long line (which there usually is), El Boliche Cebicheria is quite the contender so head there if you’re in a time crunch. But make sure to come back to La Cevicheria before leaving the city. Promise me that!

La Mulata

Craving some authentic Caribbean seafood while you’re knocking off all the things to do in Cartagena?! Head on over to La Mulata — the food is simple with soulful flavors in a fun space. Locals typically come here on their lunch break, so when we slipped in for a quick dinner, it was practically empty! 

You’ll find a simple menu of soulful Caribbean dishes, with lots and lots of seafood, and I loved my fish of the day with rice and plantains. Simple but so delicious and cooked absolutely perfectly. We both ordered the same dish – it sounded so tasty!

I later learned that the owner buys fish at 4am in the morning so you really know you’re getting the freshest of the fresh! Definitely not frozen over here! Super reasonable prices too! If you haven’t tried Posta Negra Cartagenera, this is a great spot for it as well. 

They even gave us a complimentary plate of plantain chips before devouring our main meal. Way more fun than a bread basket in my opinion! 

Sit on the beautiful outdoor patio in the back and make sure to wash down your fish with a refreshing coconut lemonade. Yum!

El Arsenal: The Rum Box 

Rum lover? You need to make a reservation at El Arsenal. It showcases the largest collection of Colombian rums in the world! There’s also a rum and chocolate tasting you can book beforehand – I so wish we had time to do this; my husband would have just loved it!

So yes, while it easily makes it on the list of best cocktail bars in Cartagena, it’s so much more than that! The food is spectacular too! I mean, how can you resist tasty tuna and passion fruit ceviche, grilled sea bass with creole mashed potatoes, and pork belly plantain baskets. I heard their chocolate cakes are some of the best, too! 

The restaurant is located right outside the walled city in the hip and happening neighborhood of Getsemani. Let’s just say there’s a reason this restaurant in Cartagena is #1 on Tripadvisor. And it’s relatively new – just created and opened in 2017 by Abraham Dau!

Cuzco Cocina Peruana

People claim Cocina Peruana has the best seafood in all of Cartagena – you be the judge! With that being said, the langostino risotto (lobster risotto) is a definite favorite here, so I recommend ordering that! Do note the portions are super large so plan to share a few dishes. Expect high-quality food and an excellent presentation! You’ll definitely wanna make a reservation here.

This spot is so cute – make sure to sit outside in the little courtyard. That breeze in the garden is perfect on a hot day, and the live music makes for such a fun time! Classy without breaking the bank. 

Need to cool off? Sip a seasonal sangria (they’ve got “summer”, “spring”, and “winter” varieties). I’m dying to try the strawberry lychee one (how good does that sound?!).

Vedana Cartagena

We had breakfast here every morning and absolutely loved the ambiance. This is the restaurant that was part of our hotel, the beautiful restored colonial Ananda Boutique Hotel (where we stayed!!!). Just look at these photos!

It’s small and unassuming from the outside, but the food and decor are absolutely excellent. Oh, and the service was absolutely impeccable! 

You’ve got the option of dining inside (alongside the glorious AC) or outdoors in the beautiful courtyard. My top pick – the courtyard. Always the courtyard! You can eat under the stars if you’re coming here for dinner which sounds oh so romantic! 

Dining on the weekend? You’ll get to listen to the live saxophone! Super tasteful without being too loud or annoying. Easily one of the most romantic restaurants in Cartagena. 

Now, what to order?! The ceviche trio, pulpitos a la plancha (grilled octopus), Posta Cartagenera, and the seafood linguini. Don’t miss out on the sweet Caribbean yucca cake for dessert – so scrumptious! 

Psst: If you’re not staying here, sneak a peek of the pool in the back – it’s absolutely gorgeous! Highly recommend staying here if you’re looking for a chic, yet colonial-esque place to stay. And if you ask nicely, I bet the staff will let you check out the view from the roof (there’s another pool up there as well).

Mar y Zielo Gastro Bar

Foodies – rejoice! You’ll wanna check this spot out. Come here to try all kinds of gourmet Caribbean dishes, especially seafood-forward dishes with an innovative use of local ingredients. Think white fish with a spicy coconut emulsion, sour guava and grapefruit sorbet, and cheesy yucca torpedoes with an eggplant salad foam on the side. Talk about interesting combos! 

Croquettes, coconut milk ceviche, and large bowls of chicharon, pulpo, and shrimps are popular menu items! Don’t miss the deep fried pork belly cooked in a pineapple reduction sauce.

Sit on the outdoor rooftop terrace – it’s beautiful! You’ll wanna make a reservation in advance since this place gets booked up. Fine dining at its best! Kinda fancy-shmancy, but it all works with the bottles of wine on the wall and pink cushiony rattan chairs.

I would totally come here just for the desserts. Caramelized cheese ice cream with hazelnut butter, crispy roasted banana cake with mango sorbet, and chocolate cream with coconut mousse – doesn’t it all sound just wonderful?! I’m salivating just reading the menu!

La Pepita

A hamburger restaurant in Cartagena? Why am I sending you here?! 

If you’re looking for a taste of home and craving something crazy casual, head on over to La Pepita. Burgers and fries in a very casual spot with a fun atmosphere – what more could you want? It’s a great place to grab a quick bite and have a few drinks. 

Kinda reminds me of an American-style diner! Perfect when you’re missing your typical Saturday night hang out spot! And feel like shoving some fries into your mouth for lunch, haha.

La Pepita’s got an insanely laid-back vibe, and it’s definitely not an upscale restaurant in Cartagena like some others on this list. It’s all about balance, right? 

There’s usually live music playing Saturday night, but I feel like this spot is best for a casual lunch while strolling through the old walled city. It looks like the restaurant’s gone kinda downhill over the last few years, so check out recent reviews before you go.

La Perla

I know I keep saying this, and probably sound like a broken record by now, but the food at La Perla is DELICIOUS – and is one of the best places to eat in Cartagena! Forgive me, we like to eat!

Everything is fresh with the perfect amount of spice, making La Perla one of the best Peruvian restaurants in Cartagena. 

The pulpo (octopus), empanadas (!!!), and pork loin in mushroom sauce comes highly recommended. The squid and Peruvian ceviche oysters come in a cold soup-like broth that sounds amazing as well! Don’t miss the three milk cake with arequipe cream for dessert.

What (and where) to Drink in Cartagena

Besides all the fabulous food and restaurants in Cartagena, there’s quite a few drinks you’ve gotta try as well! Don’t underestimate the power of a cold juice or latte frio on a hot day – they practically saved us when we were melting in the strong sun. 

Here’s my favorite beverages!

Limonada de coco

First up, we’ve got limonada de coco, which is basically a coconut and limeade smoothie. Sounds delicious, right? It is! Super refreshing and absolutely heavenly on a hot Cartagena day! 

This frothy and rich drink is a blended concoction of coconut milk, lime juice, crushed ice, and a whole lotta sugar. No wonder it’s so tasty! 

I was surprised by how creamy it is – I was kinda expecting it to have the flavor profile and thin consistency of your typical American lemonade. It kinda tastes a bit like drinking key lime pie, so if you’re a fan of that sweet and sour combination, you’ll love sipping on some limonadas de coco.

Limonada de hierbabuena

Care for a mint lemonade?! Limonadas de hierbabuena are just as delicious and refreshing as limonadas de coco, but not as frothy and sour. I had quite a few during our few days in Cartagena, but one of my favorites was at Carmen! 

This might even be the national beverage in Colombia, so you know you gotta try at least one!

Pisco sours and gin and tonics

We saw both pisco sours and gin and tonics on so many Cartagena restaurant menus. And honestly, I had no idea they were both such a big thing here! 

So… with that being said – definitely try your fair share! And with the heat, you’ll wanna relax and cool off at as many bars and restaurants as you can!

  • Pisco Sour: Being Peru’s national cocktail (and with Peru not terribly far from Colombia), the pisco sour is HUGE over here in Cartagena. And there’s lots of variations to the “sour” classic – made with mango, ginger, and cucumber to name a few. You can find pisco sours almost everywhere in Cartagena, but here’s a few popular spots: La Perla, Gran Inka Cartagena, and Cuzco Cocina Peruana. 
  • Gin and Tonics: Who knew how popular gin and tonics are over here in Cartagena, so take advantage if you’re a fan! Alma had one of the most extensive gin and tonic menus we saw in all of Colombia. Agua del Mar has a great variety as well. My husband had plenty, and most of them came in HUGE goblets. 

Fresh juices

You’ll find fresh jugo (juice) on every street corner in town, and even more on drink menus in basically every single restaurant in Cartagena. I think I drank 3-4 fresh juices every day (guilty!). 

And all kinds. Fresa (strawberry), maracuya (passionfruit), mango, naranja (orange), lulo (little orange). The list goes on. Fruit juice in the US just doesn’t cut it anymore. 

Looking for something super Colombian? Try jugo de tomate de árbol (tree tomato juice) or jugo de lulo (little orange – our all-time favorite).

Kola Román

Nope – this ain’t your typical Coca-Cola! Kola Roman is a Colombian soft drink that was invented in the city of Cartagena itself back in 1865. It’s super sugary and super sweet, so we could only handle a few sips each! I recommend sharing a bottle before investing in more, haha (we threw half our bottle out…). 

And get this – it’s actually one of the oldest sodas in the world (invented 20 years before Coca Cola)! You can find bottles in convenience stores around the city – we tried it in Getsemani on the main street, Calle Tripita y Media, hence the flags!

Psst: If you’re interested in trying out different soda flavors from around the world (sounds fun, right?), head to the Coca-Cola-Store in Las Vegas. We recently had a flight of 16 different flavors, and while some of them were downright disgusting, plenty were surprisingly refreshing and fun!

Craft cocktails and rooftop bars

I was pleasantly surprised to find out just how many bars serving up craft cocktails there are in Cartagena! Here’s our favorite few:

Alquímico

Alquímico is really something special. First off, it’s set within a beautiful mansion in the heart of Caragena. AND there’s three bars across three floors – each with different cocktail menus. Whoa! The first floor covers all the classics, the second floor focuses on the colors of Cartagena, and the rooftop offers drinks inspired by the country’s wildlife. How cool is that?! 

Makes sense Alquímico was on The World’s 50 Best Bars in 2020. 

While we enjoyed our drinks on the 2nd floor, I’m so bummed that we couldn’t head to the roof (there was a private event up there). Totally felt like we were in a hip, chic bar in the middle of a big city.

El Baron

Looking for more inventive cocktails? Head to El Baron in the courtyard of the charming and historic Plaza of San Pedro Claver. The indoor space is tiny yet beautiful (lets call it cozy and intimate), and the mixologists are some of the best in the city. There’s some super adventurous drinks on the menu, including one called “Pure” with caramelized onion syrup and tobacco smoke – kinda wild, right?! 

Their signature cocktail, The Gin Basil Smash, is both zingy and refreshing. Feel like a negroni? El Baron’s got a bunch. I think I wanna try the Press Box (with mezcal and aperol) and the Mojito Providencia (featuring rum and spearmint syrup) next time! 

Even the mocktails sound delicious (which is super important since too many cocktails on a crazy hot day is never a good idea)! Gotta keep yourself hydrated!

Hotel Movich

Drinks at sunset?! Yes, please! Hotel Movich Cartagena is easily the best spot in town for sunset! Aim to get there around an hour or so before the sun goes down, as this spot gets crowded, and for good reason. 

The views are absolutely to die for. The rooftop terrace overlooks not only the iconic Santa Ana Cathedral, but the church of San Pedro Claver as well. Plus, there’s the modern skyscrapers of Bocagrande behind it all. Views from every angle – I promise! Take your camera, you’ll want it.

Do note Hotel Movich is super popular for private parties (people get married here, the views are that good!), so I suggest heading there on your first night to find out when the rooftop will be open to the public.

Cafe Del Mar Cartagena

Located right on the city walls, Cafe del Mar is wildly popular for tourists. You can’t beat the location (the sun setting over the ocean to one side, and the colonial city down below on the other), but expect to pay triple the price for a cocktail or beer. It’s always very (very) crowded, so come with some time to spare. 

If you want the best seats in the house (right along the wall with uninterrupted views of the sea), make a reservation in advance. If not, be ready for long lines (although the line moves quickly). Psst – I would only come here for a drink; I heard the food wasn’t the greatest.

Mirador Gastro Bar

We came here one night when Hotel Movich was closed for a private party. The vibe was super fun and our drinks were just perfect while waiting for the sun to set. Such epic views of the clock tower and plaza below. Make sure to head up all the way to the rooftop, although the street-level bar looks pretty cool too! 

Chill out at a few Coffee Shops

There are a crazy amount of coffee shops in Cartagena, and you’d be silly to miss out on them! We went to a whole bunch, and loved Abaco, Epoca, Cafe La Manchuria, and Cafe San Alberto the best. Libertario Coffee Roasters Cartagena and Caffe Lunatico are popular as well for a reason! 

Honestly, there’s nothing better than camping out at a coffee shop sipping on something cold – no matter the time of year.

Abaco Books and Coffee

If you’ve done any research while planning your trip, I bet you’ve come across Abaco! It’s one of the most instagrammable spots in Cartagena after all, and the coffee is delicious! It’s an old school bookstore, with titles in both Spanish and English, and the most GORGEOUS stone archway.

This was my husband’s favorite coffee shop in Cartagena (yes, we went to quite a few to escape the heat!). We even bought a bag of beans to bring home! And some for our friends too (yes, it was that good). 

This charming little bookstore is located right near the iconic Cartagena cathedral, so make a pit stop here for some latte frios and photos!

Epoca Espresso Bar

Artisanal coffee set in a trendy venue. One of the best cafes in all of Cartagena, and it’s super pretty too with rustic wooden beams and old stone! I can attest to the fact that the coffee is solid – my husband slurped his caffe frio in a matter of minutes! 

We randomly came to escape the midday heat and it was exceptionally busy. You’ll undoubtedly need to wait in line for a table if you want actual food, but everyone claims it’s well worth it.

While they’ve got all the normal espressos and specialty coffees, if you want to try something a bit different, there’s limonada de cafe (coffee lemonade) on the menu! We had previously tried some on our tour of Comuna 13 in Medellin, but it’s worth a taste if you’ve never had it before. Surprisingly pretty decent and flavorful – tart and refreshing with the perfect amount of coffee taste.

Ask to sit upstairs – you’ll get great views of the colonial buildings on the street below! And ohhhh the coffee! Yes please! Epoca’s also got non-dairy milk substitutes, which is especially hard to find in Cartagena.

Street Food in Cartagena

Yes, I know street food isn’t exactly the same as these other restaurants in Cartagena. But hear me out! All of the plentiful street food around each and every corner is one of the main draws of this charming colonial city. Simply put, if you’re not snacking on street food throughout the day, you’re missing out on some of the best flavors of Cartagena. 

So, do yourself a favor and make these street foods in Cartagena a high priority!

Fried arepas con huevo

Arepas con huevo are super popular in all of Colombia – they’re practically an institution here in Cartagena! But wait, what are they exactly?! Little pockets of maize flour that are filled with lots of different things! Ground spiced beef, raw eggs, cheese, etc. And then deep fried! Yum! Super caloric but super tasty, and crazy cheap!

What are arepas con huevo? Similar to arepas con queso (cheese), but with eggs inside a fried corn tortilla instead!

We were surprised we didn’t see any empanadas, but the ones we indulged in in Guatape after climbing Piedra del Penol more than made up for it.

Grilled arepas con queso

If there’s one street food you’re gonna try in Cartagena, make sure you indulge in some mouthwatering street arepas. I’ve never had a better arepa in my life. Swear to the Colombian heavens. Probably one of my favorite things I ate on our entire trip to Colombia (and I don’t say that lightly).

We saw multiple vendors around town grilling these up, but had our favorite one right outside Plaza Bolivar. Be careful – each arepa is piping hot and dripping with tons of cheese. Kinda messy, but oh so worth it!

Psst – they’re super filling and very dense; I’m so glad we shared one.

Fresh fruit stands

One of my favorite things about Colombia?! The wide variety of exotic fruits and fresh juices! The fact that they’re all ridiculously cheap is a huge bonus (I’m talking pennies per fruit). The whole country is a paradise for fruit-lovers like me! 

Here’s a few you’ll find around town:

  • Lulos (little oranges)
  • Granadillas (a sweeter passion fruit which we couldn’t get enough of)
  • Maracuyas (passionfruit; kinda like a tart mango)
  • Uchuvas (south american cherries)
  • Mangosteens (a delicious mix of lychee, peach, and pineapple – LOVED them)
  • Watermelon (they were so sweet here!)

Granadillas were by far our favorite. You have to crack it open (students take them to school and crack them on their friends’ heads), and the inside is slippery and weird and full of seeds (which you kinda slurp down). Our first hotel had a huge basket of them right by reception so you know I took a few every day.

You’ll also see plenty of cups of mango biche – green, unripe mangos (peeled and cut into strips or thinly sliced) topped with lime and salt. Kinda similar to the fruit cups drizzled with fresh lime juice and sprinkled with tajin we typically have in Mexico City. Sour, salty, and fruity all at the same time – what more could you want?!

Fresh coconuts and coconut water

It’s true – I’m a sucker for fresh coconuts! I’ve had fresh coconut water (and meat!) in Belize, Thailand, San Blas (Panama), Bali, etc…. The list goes on.  

Fresh coconut water has a very sweet and nutty taste. It’s naturally refreshing, but can taste a bit sour at first. The water is light in flavor, but sometimes takes some time getting used to. 

It’s super, super hydrating with tons of natural electrolytes, so it’s a great option if you find yourself with low energy and on the verge of heat stroke. Ack – if that happens, make sure you rest your body and get plenty and plenty of liquids. No – pisco sours don’t count!

Don’t confuse coconut water with coconut milk or coconut oil – those are completely different things! Coconut water is a clear liquid tapped from young, green coconuts. Once you’re done sipping the water, ask to have your coconut cracked open so you can eat the fresh coconut meat inside – so delicious and such a healthy snack.

Pinchos

Grilled meat on a stick, anyone?! You’re bound to find some grilled meat stands in Cartagena. We mostly saw them at night in the main squares and near the clocktower, as well as in the nearby neighborhood of Getsemani.

And there’s plenty to choose from – chicken, a chorizo sausage mix, beef in a sweet sauce – all topped off with a mini boiled potato. Street bbq if you will!

Snacks in Cartagena

Hungry between meals? If you’re a tiny bit hungry, you don’t need to waste precious time sitting down at one of the restaurants in Cartagena! There’s plenty of snacks to be had from local bakeries, paleterias, and more!

Pandebonos

Mmm… pandebonos. What are they?! Imagine fluffy little balls of deliciousness stuffed with cheese.

And yes, they taste as delicious as they sound. They’re typically had as a snack, and whenever we passed by, you know we each had one! Whoops! At less than $2USD, you can’t go wrong.

While you can find them in plenty of bakeries around town, La Esquina del Pandebono is far superior than all the others. The best pandebono in town. The iced coffee wasn’t half bad either!

Bocadillos

Once you’ve had your fair share of pandebonos, opt for a bocadillo instead! These are guava-filled pastries and just as tasty. Also known as guayaba (I think… although I can’t find much information online!). Feel free to correct me. 

We had ours from the same spot we got the pandebonos from, La Esquina del Pandebono. Definitely ask them to heat the pastry up – soooo delicious. They’ve also got bocaquesos, which are similar to bocadillos but there’s cheese inside as well! Ugh my gluttonous heart!

Bolis

If you’re wondering WTF a boli is, you’re not alone. I had never heard of them before heading to Colombia! Bolis are basically the Colombian version of an ice pop. Essentially, a  frozen fruit popsicle wrapped in plastic that you bite into to eat! Kids love ‘em! They come in a bunch of different fruit flavors, like mango and corozo (tastes like cherries).

Where to get this refreshingly cool snack? In the Getsemani neighborhood! Bolis are said to be sold from a neighbor’s living room window, although we couldn’t find it! Definitely take a food tour if you’re set on trying some. A much needed respite from the intense Colombian heat.

Popsicles

There’s a bunch of palaterias (popsicle shops) around town, which are perfect on a hot day. But the most popular one is La Paletteria, found right in the Walled City (it’s usually packed). 

Expect to find popular flavors like chocolate and nutella, as well as more unique Colombian fruits like lulo, granadilla, and maracuya. They remind me a bit of the Mexican paletas we have in Cabo San Lucas and San Pancho!

Portal de los Dulces

Ready for something super unique?! Cartagena has an entire block filled with sweets, how perfect is that?! No, not your typical candy shop, but traditional Colombian sweets. It’s basically one big candy market just bursting with color and vendors.

The candies are all homemade and very, very sweet. We bought a small box for 5 COP (~1.50USD) to try some of them.

A few candies you’ll come across: cocada (balls or patties of syrup and shredded coconut), blocks of guava paste, dulces de leche, and tamarind balls (not my favorite). And if you act interested and ask questions, they’ll probably give you samples!

Patacones

Mmm… time for something salty! Patacones are fried unripe bananas (plantains) that are typically smashed (kinda like the ones we had in Sayulita far too many times) and are oh so delicious. They’re typically served as side dishes, so make sure to opt for those at least once with your meal!

Extra Cartagena Specialities

Posta Negra Cartagenera

This wouldn’t be a proper “where to eat in Cartagena” post without including Posta Negra Cartagenera! What is it you ask? Essentially, a Colombian style black beef, which is absolutely delicious. It’s usually prepared for special occasions like New Year’s Eve or Christmas, but hey – everyday is special when you’re here in Cartagena!

The beef is cooked in a dark sauce of onion, garlic, Worcestershire sauce, cumin, and panela (kinda like brown sugar). It’s actually kinda reminiscent of Kansas City-style barbecue. The pot roast of Cartagena! Fried plantains and coconut rice are usually served on the side. SUCH a good meal – don’t miss it.

Lunch Set/Menu del Dia

Looking for one of the cheapest meals you can get in Cartagena? Check out the ultra affordable set menu of the day! Most sets come with a rice soup, grilled meat, rice, potatoes, avocados, plantains, and a drink (typically juice or lemonade). All for a mere $3.50-4USD. A bunch of Cartagena restaurants offer them, so be on the lookout!

Traditionally, a set lunch was prepared for workers to get a full high-quality meal at a cheap price so they had the energy to continue working for the day. While they’re found in Spain and other Latin American countries, the Colombian Menú del Día is called Corrientazo. Set meals are still traditionally used in small towns in Colombia, but also now in more touristy areas for ya know, tourists!

So there ya have it – all the delicious restaurants in Cartagena we had the pleasure of dining at! Plus my favorite drinks and street foods! What are you most excited to try?! PLEASE bring me home a few granadillas! 

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16 Exciting Things to do in Guatape: The Most Colorful Town in Colombia https://apassionandapassport.com/things-to-do-in-guatape-colombia/ https://apassionandapassport.com/things-to-do-in-guatape-colombia/#respond Tue, 10 May 2022 06:33:07 +0000 https://apassionandapassport.com/?p=23287 Headed to Colombia and looking for exciting things to do in Guatape? You’re in luck, because besides being one of Colombia’s most colorful towns, there’s a whole bunch of fun activities here, like climbing the giant rock and hanging at the lake! Guatape feels a world away from Medellin. It’s a maze of colorful, kaleidoscopicContinue Reading

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Headed to Colombia and looking for exciting things to do in Guatape? You’re in luck, because besides being one of Colombia’s most colorful towns, there’s a whole bunch of fun activities here, like climbing the giant rock and hanging at the lake!

Guatape feels a world away from Medellin. It’s a maze of colorful, kaleidoscopic streets, known for its small-town feel and exciting lakeside activities. It’s a tranquil pueblo outside of Medellín (and super easy to get to), and I’m urging everyone to visit this lakeside paradise sooner than later.

I think the first time I saw a photo of Guatape, I had no clue where it was. Upon further investigation of this colorful little lakeside town, I finally figured out it was only two hours east of Medellin. It instantly got added to my travel bucket list! 

So as soon as I started planning our recent trip to Colombia, I knew I needed to include Guatape – the colorful little town intrigued me so much!

And once we got there… wow. Just wow! It’s one of those postcard-perfect places in Colombia you really need to see to believe. It’s well-known for Piedra del Peñol (the huge rock you’ll see later on in this post) and its colorful pueblo scattered with zocalos. It really is Colombia’s most colorful town (okay, maybe it’s on par with Cartagena, but who’s counting?!).

So whether you wanna escape the hustle and bustle of big city life in Medellin for a few hours or simply spend a few days relaxing on the lake, add Guatape into your Colombia itinerary. You’re gonna love it here, I promise. I’m aching to go back already!

Pre-Travel Guide to Guatape

Where is Guatape

First things first, Guatape is located in the Department of Antioquia in central Colombia (yes, the country!). It’s about 1.5 -2 hours east of Medellin, and much further away from Cartagena (another of Colombia’s colorful cities).

The tiny town is located right on the edge of Guatape Lake, a large man-made reservoir built with the purpose of hydroelectric power generation in the late 20th century. And what does all this mean? The views are absolutely breathtaking! No joke, I was in awe and my husband had to literally peel me away.

I didn’t realize this at first, but Guatape is actually considered to be within the Central Andean mountain range like other traditional towns, including Salento, Filandia, and Santa Fe de Antioquia. It sits at a pretty high elevation of 6,201′ (about 1k feet lower than Mexico City and 1k feet higher than Denver, Colorado), but thankfully weren’t affected by the high elevation at all.

How to Get to Guatape from Medellin

Can’t wait to experience all the things to do in Guatape? Thankfully, the town’s pretty easy to get to, especially if you’re already in Colombia. You’ll wanna first get yourself to Medellin (easy flights from both Cartagena and Bogota), then you’ve got a few options. 

  • Public Bus 
  • Taxi/Uber
  • Guided Day Trip 

All of them pass by rolling green hills and rural farming communities, so look out the window periodically! 

Option 1: Medellin to Guatape Public Bus

This is the way we went! At first it sounded kinda complicated, but in reality, it was super simple! Non stop buses from Medellin to Guatape depart from Terminal Norte (the city’s busier northern bus terminal) all times of day. Buses depart every 20-30 minutes, every day of the week, from 6am to 7pm.

Step 1: Get yourself to Terminal Norte in Medellin  

There’s essentially two ways to get to Terminal Norte, depending on where you’re coming from. For the sake of ease, I’m assuming you’re staying in El Poblado, where most tourists in Medellin sleep.

  • Option 1: Take an Uber or Taxi straight to Terminal Norte from El Poblado. This is by far the easiest option, and should only set you back around 10,000COP ($2.50USD) for a short 20 minute ride. We didn’t feel like riding the metro so early in the morning (having to walk there, wait for a train, etc) so we decided to Uber. Super, super easy!
  • Option 2: Use public transit. The Medellin metro system is very efficient, organized, and cheap(!), so if you’re down for a mini morning adventure, walk over to Poblado Station and buy a ticket from the counter. All one-way tickets cost the same, so you don’t even need to say where you’re headed. Grab a train towards Niquía on Line A (blue), and then get off at Caribe Metro Station, which is actually attached to Terminal Norte. 

Step 2: Buy a ticket to Guatape!

Once you make your way to Terminal Norte, buy a nonstop ticket to Guatape! Head to the lower level, and you’ll find the companies serving Guatape at ticket counter 14. 

We were a tad confused about where to go at first, so we approached staff in the terminal. They automatically assumed we were off to Guatape (wonder how they knew… haha, we definitely looked like lost tourists) and directed us downstairs. So if you get lost, just ask anyone where buses to Guatape are, and they’ll point you towards counter 14.

We traveled with Sotrasanvicente & Guatape La Piedra (at counter 14), and although we had already bought a ticket online, we were instructed to exchange that for a regular ticket at the ticket booth. While we somehow ended up on a slightly later bus than the one we had already purchased, it all worked out. Organized chaos at its best! 

I really don’t think there’s a reason to buy in advance, and should we had known that, we probably wouldn’t have. 

Tickets cost 17,000COP per person each way, which comes out to roughly $4.25. Talk about an absolute steal! 

Step 3: Ride the Bus!

The 2-hour bus ride was comfortable enough, although not as spectacular as my bus journey from Mexico City to San Miguel de Allende (which had foot rests and charging stations — practically unheard of on most public buses).

While on the bus, be prepared for a few types of people boarding the bus after the fact while on the road. Some are begging for money, some are selling small snacks, and others are playing music (and then looking for tips). Don’t feel obligated to purchase anything or give any money. They then essentially jump off the moving bus in a stop or two. 

Just something to keep in mind. This seems pretty normal and bus drivers and passengers aren’t fazed by this in the least bit. Just very different than anywhere else I’ve been, so wanted to point that out. 

And once you arrive in Guatape, the bus will drop you off at the bus terminal (it’s like a small, glorified parking lot), which is only a minute walk to the center of town.

Tip: If you’re just taking a day trip from Medellin to Guatape and DIYing it, I recommend getting to Terminal Norte no later than 7am. This means you’ll arrive in Guatape around 9ish or so (depending on when the bus leaves), and have the whole day to explore the tiny pueblo. 

Option 2: Taxi from Medellin to Guatape 

Want zero hassle at all? Consider taking a taxi all the way from Medellin to Guatape! The ride should cost about $35USD, and take roughly 2 hours. Not terrible if you’ve got a few friends to split the bill with, or had a few too many aguardiente shots the night before and don’t think you’ll make it on the bus.

Do note you’ll probably have a hard time finding a taxi in Guatape to take you all the way back to Medellin, so plan on taking the bus back.

Psst – if you’re flying into Medellin (MDE) with the aim of going to Guatape, don’t go into the city just yet! The airport is much closer to Guatape than the actual city of Medellin is, so you can head straight to Gautape if you wanna take a taxi. 

You’ll basically save an hour of travel time as the airport is on the way from Medellin to Guatape. But if you wanna take the cheap public bus, be prepared to head into the city first. 

Option 3: Take a Guatape Tour from Medellin 

Getting yourself to Guatape can be a pain in the ass, especially if you’re only going for the day. 

Being 2 hours away each way, if you don’t leave super early, you’ll waste half the day on the bus. Worried you’ll oversleep? Sign up for a day tour! These Guatape tours show you the best of the best of town, and are super inexpensive.

If you don’t wanna have to worry about first getting yourself to Terminal Norte, navigating the bus station, buying a ticket in Spanish, and then making the 2-hour journey, booking yourself on a tour from Medellin to Guatape is the way to go. Especially if you’ve only got time for a day trip from Medellin to Guatape! 

Thankfully, there’s plenty of companies who make day trips from Medellin to Guatape, and they’re not at all expensive! Most tours are around $35USD, and give you time for the strenuous climb up Piedra del Penol and extra time to explore the colorful tiny town. Some even include breakfast and lunch, plus a boat trip – that’s great value for the money!

Weather and When to Visit Guatape

In a nutshell, the days are warm (but not crazy hot), the nights are cool (but hardly freezing), and there’s always a good chance of rain. So, bring a rain jacket. 

But as we experienced, the weather changes frequently in Guatape. We encountered clouds, an intense Colombian thunderstorm, and sun all in the same day/night. Pretty wild if you ask me. One thing we learned – never trust the Colombian weather forecast; it’s typically very, very wrong!

Unlike Cartagena, we never felt gross and sweaty – the air felt crisp and we were super comfortable wandering around town. Thankfully, it wasn’t as hot and humid as the Caribbean coast (I complained far less here in Guatape about the weather, haha). This is probably because Guatape sits at a higher altitude of 6,346 feet, coming in at just under Mexico City (~7,000 feet). 

Beware of rain: The rainiest season is from May to November, but we encountered a massive thunderstorm in late March. And let’s just say it was no joke – it was actually quite the experience walking down El Penol when the steps were flooding! Thankfully the next day in Guatape was bright and sunny! 

It seems as if rain and clouds kinda happen throughout the year, so I don’t think there’s really any way to completely escape it. But fingers crossed you get a warm, sunny day without much cloud cover!

Crowds: In terms of crowds, Guatape will be at its busiest during the Christmas and Easter holidays. You’ll find it way busier on the weekends than during the week, as locals head from Medellin to Guatape to spend relaxing weekends at the lake. 

With that being said, if you’ve got flexibility in your Colombia itinerary, aim to visit Guatape during the week – it’ll be far less crowded.

How Long to Stay in Guatape

Most people visit as a day trip, as the journey from Medellin to Guatape is pretty easy and there’s tons of tours for not a lot of money. But if you really wanna experience all that has to offer, spend a night or two! We chose to spend a night and while I honestly don’t think it was all that necessary, we’re glad we didn’t feel rushed. 

A few thoughts on each:

Should I stay overnight?

If you wanna see Guatape in all its glory without the hordes of tourists, plan to stay the night. Once the day trippers head on home (around 4pm or so), the crowds die down and the town is much more pleasurable. And if you get out early the next morning, you can beat the day trippers before they even arrive, which is usually around 10am. 

Staying overnight ensures you can take your time, relax, and overall enjoy a slower pace of life in the tiny town. 

However, there’s not a ton going on at night besides locals playing music in the square and restaurants for dinner – we found ourselves back in our hotel room by 8pm. We were exhausted from all our traveling, so honestly didn’t mind it much! 

On the weekends, however, it’s a bit more active, with a few bars and clubs staying open pretty late. If you’re really big on nightlife, I’d head back to Medellin instead. 

Day trip from Medellin to Guatape?

If all you’ve got time for is a quick day trip, I highly recommend adding Guatape to your Colombia itinerary! Hey, one day is better than nothing! Since Guatape is only two hours away from Medellin, you can really do a whole lot in a day. 

Plus, since the town and surrounding area is small enough, you can really see the highlights within just a day. Just make sure to leave early. There are however, a few negatives of not staying the night:

  • You’ll be spending at least 4 hours in the car/bus that day
  • You’ll be there at the most crowded times of day
  • If you’re going via public transit, you’ll probably have to wait some time for a bus to head back to Medellin (since everyone who isn’t staying overnight and isn’t on a tour uses the same bus company to head back to Medellin)

Would I still go from Medellin to Guatape if all I had was a day? Yes, 100%. I’d probably go with a tour though to save myself the hassle of the bus if I was on such a limited timeframe.

Best Guatape Tours

Wanna make your life super easy? Skip the public bus and sign up in advance for one of these Guatape tours. They’re a great value for money (with most being around $35USD), and take you around to the different things to do in Guatape (like the huge rock and colorful town, as well on an included boat tour on many).

Plus, most tours come with an English-speaking guide. If you wanna learn more about the history of Guatape, way of life here in town, and interesting facts about the zocalos, ask away!

Tours will pick you up in Medellin, and take you straight to Guatape. And thankfully most tours leave super early, meaning you’ll have the entire day to spend checking out this pretty lakeside town.

  • Option 1: Includes a relaxing boat ride, free time at El Peñol Rock, a guided tour of the colorful town, and even time to enjoy a traditional Colombian lunch (included). This tour has over 1,300 5 star reviews, so you know it’s a good one (and it’s such a bargain at only $35, all transportation included). Read reviews and book tour here.
  • Option 2: This one includes a guided tour of the colorful town of Guatapé, vast panoramas from atop La Piedra del Peñol, and lunch in Guatape´s best local restaurant (a traditional Antioquian meal along the boardwalk). You’ll also take a boat cruise on the Guatapé Reservoir. Read reviews and book tour here.

Where to Stay in Guatape

You won’t find any major hotel chains in Guatape – it’s a super tiny village that’s turned into a tourist attraction over time. Expect to find cute budget hotels and small B&Bs instead. Some hotels have a pool, so if this is important to you, be cognizant of that when booking! 

Regardless of where you stay, if you only have one night, I highly recommend picking a hotel near the best things to do in Guatape. Some hotels are a 30 minute walk away from town, and trust me, you don’t wanna be that far if all you’ve got is a day or two. Gotta save that energy for climbing La Piedra del Penol anyways!

There are 2 main areas I recommend staying:

In the town itself

  • Hotel Bahia Guatape: This is where we stayed, and at less than $40 a night for a private room with a private bathroom, I don’t think it gets much cheaper. We were right in the middle of town, literally a 2 minute walk from anywhere. Yes, it was quite basic, but the room was clean, we felt super safe, the included breakfast was quite tasty, and the staff was extra friendly (despite the language barrier).
  • Hotel El Paisaje Guatapé: Right in the middle of town, with a great restaurant on the terrace. Looks kinda basic, but fine for a 1-night stay.
  • Hotel Santorini: Despite its location on the outskirts of town, Hotel Santorini is easily walkable to all the main sights in the village. Plus, there’s a pool and a jacuzzi!

Overlooking the lake

  • Hotel Bosko: I wanted to stay here SO badly, but they were sold out (big mistake on my part for waiting to book, whoops!). Their crystal mushrooms look SO cool. We were tempted to buy a day pass (which includes lunch, time at the resort pool, a trip to town, and time on the lake kayaking and/or paddling), but we decided against it after we were unsure of what the weather would be. 
  • Luxe by the Charlee: I’ve heard such good things about Luxe, but this was after our stay! Funny how that happens, right? The villas look super sleek, the views look absolutely amazing, and it’s super colorful – just like Guatape town itself.
  • Lake View Hostel: Looking to save some pesos? This spot is super low-key and basic, so you have more money for empanadas! And plus, it’s right across the street from the lake! Everyone raves about the attached Thai restaurant/bar, so it must be worthy of a meal!
  • Hotel Los Recuerdos: Overlooking the Peñol–Guatapé reservoir, this spot is great if you can get a room facing the famous rock. There’s even a few swimming pools/jacuzzis and a sauna.

Other Important Guatape FAQS

  • Safety in Guatape: The entire town of Guatape is super safe! We felt comfortable wandering off the main square, even at night. One thing to note is that the water in Guatape is not safe to drink, so bring your steripen water bottle or plan to buy water bottles in town. We had no health issues with the food whatsoever.
  • Is English spoken in Guatape? Yes, a tiny bit, but don’t expect it. Like elsewhere in Colombia, English was spoken way less than we originally had thought it would be, and we relied on translation apps and our mediocre Spanish skills to communicate. I highly recommend learning a few basic words/phrases in Spanish before heading to Guatape, and Colombia in general.
  • Is Guatape expensive? Coming from California, we found everything in Guatape to be extremely cheap. It’s definitely more expensive than nearby Medellin, but you really get a lot for your money. We had piping hot street empanadas for less than 35 cents (USD), a huge plate of food (bandeja paisa) and a Colombian beer was a mere $7, and our hotel room with a perfect location right in the middle of town was under $45. Even getting there on the public bus only costs ~$4USD for a 2 hour ride!
  • How to get around Guatape: There’s hardly any cars in Guatape (therefore no Uber). But don’t worry, almost everything is within walking distance… besides El Penol which you can take a quick tuk-tuk ride to (a colorful 3-wheeled motorized vehicle – more on that below). 
  • How far is La Piedra del Penol (the rock) from Guatapé town? The famous Guatape rock is almost 3 miles from town. You can either make the long 45-minute walk to El Penol, or take a short 10-minute tuk-tuk ride (costing 12k pesos for two people, easily found near the town square).
  • Are there ATMs in Guatape? Yes, but….. I highly recommend bringing enough pesos from Medellin for your time in Guatape. When we visited in March 2022, there were apparently 2 ATMS in town, but one was out of service and well, we couldn’t for the life of us find the other. I also learned that the ATMs (when they are functioning properly) frequently run out of money. We found some restaurants in Guatape to only take cash, and our hotel preferred cash as well. So…. I wouldn’t depend on being able to use the local ATMs in Guatape. Bring your money from Medellin.
  • Can you swim in the lake? You can, and it’s quite refreshing! Unfortunately there’s too much boat traffic near the town which doesn’t make swimming all that nice from the shore. Thankfully, you can paddle board, jet ski, and/or kayak in the lake if you don’t wanna get completely wet but still wanna take advantage of #lakelife.

Things to bring to Guatape

If you’re only going for a day, you don’t need to bring too much. Remember – you’ll be carrying it around the entire time, including your climb up El Penol! I recommend sunscreen, a sun hat, reusable water bottle with steripen, a light sweater, and a rain jacket if the forecast calls for any rain at all. You really just never know! Plus, wear comfy shoes to walk up the rock and on the cobblestone in town. Leave those heels/wedges at home, ladies!

Prone to car sickness? Or get nauseous on boats? Pop some dramamine for the bus ride over and beforehand if you’re planning to take a boat tour of the lake!

Staying overnight? Well, you’ll already have all your stuff with you so I think you’ll be more than prepared! Just remember to slather on that sunscreen!

Brief History of Guatape

Guatape has a long and fascinating local history. It all started with the indigenous groups that used to inhabit the area, and now there’s an entire town (the original village of El Peñol) submerged under the lake! How wild and crazy is that?!

Let me explain….

Guatape was once a farming community dedicated to livestock, mining, and agriculture. It was founded in 1714, and then became a municipality in 1867. All very typical up until then for those times. 

But then, in 1970, the entire geographical area completely changed. The Colombian government flooded all the surrounding hills and valleys and even the original village of El Penol in order to create a network of freshwater lakes. 

ON PURPOSE. Like, what?! Super bizarre! You can even see the cross where the old church once stood when the water falls below a certain level. Why? To construct a huge hydroelectric complex and current Peñol-Guatapé reservoir.

Yes, people were displaced and lost their homes, and were thankfully given compensation and new homes on higher ground. But they had to give up their old lives and entire village, their homes, and their memories. Super sad when you think about it.

This 5500-acre reservoir and dam currently generates a third of the energy in all of Colombia, so I guess you can say it’s kinda important. But those poor people – so sad!

16 Fun Things to do in Guatape 

Finally, what you probably came here for: my favorite things to do in Guatape… and a few others I wish we had time for!

Walk around the town of Guatape

Out of all the things to do in Guatape, simply wandering around town was my favorite. The entire village is basically a kaleidoscope of color – the buildings are painted in every color imaginable, the storefronts are practically rainbows, and even the tuk tuks are decked out in glitz and glam. 

I was in heaven! And I just couldn’t get enough of it – I definitely took way too many pictures, haha. 

As you wander around, you’ll see all the creative zocalos – painted scenes on the lower portion of buildings made from cement. These are famous here in Guatape, and every single house, building, restaurant, store, and even the church has their own zocalos. These zocalos are not only picturesque, but the cement is resistant to humidity which ultimately helps protect the buildings.

Psst: The word “zocalo” in Mexico typically means “town square”, like in Mexico City, Oaxaca, and San Miguel de Allende. But here in Guatape, Colombia they refer to the raised designs found on the baseboard of buildings and homes. Just thought I should point that out because I got a bit confused at first, haha.

If you look closely, you’ll see that the zocalos actually portray the trade or history of the house/building they’re on! We had fun trying to guess the store based on the zocalos we saw. Some were very obscure and some were pretty obvious. 

You’ll find painted animals (we saw so many llamas, sheep, and donkeys!), ornate flowers, simple geometric designs, music notes, milk farmers, and marine scenes representing La Piedra del Peñol. 

Tip: Don’t just wander around the main square. Those are the most popular and crowded parts of town. As you walk away from the main square, the streets get so much quieter. We had plenty of streets all to ourselves, which we couldn’t believe since the main square and plaza were absolutely packed! 

Walk up El Penol Rock for Spectacular 360° Views

Whether you’re visiting Guatape as a day trip or for a few nights, don’t leave without climbing up El Penol. Why?! Well, the view is absolutely spectacular – there’s a reason it’s become pretty insta-famous over the last few years! 

Yes, this makes it feel kinda touristy, but I promise you the views are to die for. It’s got to be one of the most amazing lookout spots in all of Colombia. There’s a reason it’s one of the most popular things to do in Guatape!

La Piedra Del Penol is over 700 feet high with a whopping 740 steps. And boy is it a strenuous  climb! I had to stop numerous times to catch my breath and let my tired legs rest, while my marathon-running husband was just fine, haha. But once we got to the top?! Those stunning views of the lake were more than worth the tough climb. 

You’ll get panoramic views of Guatape Lake, all the little islands, and deep blue water. Absolutely mesmerizing. Reminded me a tiny bit of the fjords in Norway on our Preikestolen hike (ok, fine, maybe just in the slightest). But this is NOT what I pictured Colombia to look like!

At the top, you’ll see a few restaurants, souvenir shops, and picnic tables and chairs. Treat yourself to whatever you damn well please – you just walked up 700+ steps! Salty mango micheladas, fresh fruit, ice cream, and obleas (a yummy Colombian wafer with caramel inside) await!

Read Next: Climbing La Piedra del Penol (everything you need to know)

And don’t you worry – we saw people of all ages, shapes, and sizes climbing Penol. With a little determination, anyone can do it (although unfortunately it’s not accessible to wheelchair users). For reference, it took us about 20 minutes to reach the top, with plenty of photo (and rest) stops along the way. My legs were absolute jello after step 75 or so.

Logistics

How to get to La Piedra Del Penol: From Guatape town, you can either make the 30-minute walk to El Penol, or take a short 10-minute tuk-tuk ride (for 12k pesos for two people). We opted for the tuk-tuk, and it was an experience in and of itself! Highly recommended if you’ve never ridden in one before (I had previously in Guatemala and Thailand, but will never give up a chance for another fun ride!).

Cost: Of course there’s an entrance fee to climb the zigzagging staircase of La Piedra Del Penol, being COP 20k (~$6 USD). Yes, you need to pay to torture yourself up the rock, but again, the views are breathtaking and you’d be crazy to miss them.

Safety: Wear comfortable shoes, and prepare for rain. The stairs are frequently wet and therefore can be very slippery. Be extra careful! On our way down, we ended up getting stuck in a wild Colombian thunderstorm and the steps completely flooded. Let’s just say that’s an experience we’ll never forget. Oh, and bring lots of water! You don’t wanna get dehydrated.

Take photos with the umbrellas

Like in other spots around the world (including Getsemani in Cartagena), there’s an umbrella street over here! It’s right next to the Plaza del Zocalo, so snap a few quick photos before/after hanging out over here! 

Do note this particular street gets INSANELY busy, meaning you’ll wanna get your IG photos early in the morning before the day trippers arrive (latest 9:30am). Any later and you’ll undoubtedly have tons of photobombers in your pics. But hey, that’s more authentic anyways, right?

Try trucha frita

Seafood lover? You need to try trucha frita (fried trout). Not only is it one of the most popular things to eat in all of Guatape, but it’s so cheap and the fish is so fresh (right from the lake itself!). 

The dish is typically served with rice, salad, beans, avocado, and fried plantains, for as little as 18,000COP (~$4.50USD). You can find it in most Colombian restaurants in Guatape. A few spots to try trucha: La Fogota and The Snuggly Duckling (locally known as El Patito Modosito).

Indulge in a bandeja paisa

Next up, a bandeja paisa, a true Colombian classic! It’s a super popular meal in all of Colombia, especially in the Antioquia department (where Guatape is). 

The meal consists of ground beef, chorizo, rice, beans, avocado, a fried egg, arepas, chicharrones, and fried plantains. Talk about a heart attack on a plate (so…. not a wise idea to eat this everyday). The plates are huge with so much variety, so we decided to share an order and had the perfect amount of food!

Colombian Coffee at Cafe La Vina

Need a caffeinated little pick-me-up? Exhausted from all the fun things to do in Guatape?! Head over to Cafe La Vina for a latte frio and brownie a la mode! 

We loved this cute little cafe – sit outside on the 2nd floor balcony for great views of the plaza and its colorful steps below. The coffees even had cute little designs on them; the key to my coffee heart. <3 

Plaza del Zócalo

Thought you’ve seen color? Think again. Head to Guatape’s splashy town square. The Plaza del Zocalo is absolutely saturated with color – every single inch is covered! It’s a small square with steps on one side, with each step painted a different color with plenty of designs! Just look at that photo – color overload! 

It’s typically pretty busy over here, as both locals and tourists hang out here for photos, listening to live Colombian music, watching street performers, and just sitting down to relax! It’s honestly the perfect place for people watching. Here you’ll also find the famous hot cinnamon rolls – I was so sad we missed out on these. Next time for us!

If you want those perfect IG photos, make sure to head here early! As you can see, the steps and plaza get crazy crowded.

Take a stroll on the malecon

For great views of the water, head to the malecon (essentially a waterfront boardwalk along the shore of the reservoir which doubles as an observation deck). The malecon is pretty new; it just opened a few years ago in 2019 with pristine cobblestone floors, benches to relax on, green spaces with colorful flowers, and even sandy spots for the kids. 

If you’re feeling snacky, don’t worry – there were a bunch of food stalls over here in late afternoon/night. We got a whole bag of mini fried arepas and happily popped them into our mouths as we were strolling by the lake. Like the rest of Colombia, expect to eat lots of deep-fried deliciousness over here!

Looking for the Guatape sign? Walk along the entire waterfront promenade and you’ll eventually find it – fun for a touristy photo!

Parroquia Nuestra Señora Del Carmen

Walking around town, you’ll undoubtedly run into the Church of Our Lady Carmen (the town’s ‘iglesia’ (church), built way back when in 1865. This impressive colonial church is located in the town’s main square, and is filled with aesthetic beauty.

The outside is even decorated with its own zocalos – representing the four Evangelists (an angel, a lion, a bull, and an eagle). It’s such a beautiful church in Guatape, with striking white paint and red stripes. There’s a huge fountain right in front so you can’t miss it!

Plus, there’s typically some tuk-tuks hanging out here if you need a ride to El Penol!

Ride a colorful tuk-tuk

While you don’t necessarily need a tuk-tuk to get around town (everythings very walkable), if you’re headed anywhere out of town (like the popular Guatape rock), take a tuk-tuk! 

These are popular modes of transport in small villages like Guatape, and are super fun to ride! They’ve only got three wheels and have open sides (kinda like a motorbike with extra seating in the back for passengers), so be sure to hold on and keep your stuff securely by your feet. 

Depending on your driver, the ride will be fast and thrilling, and I always have so much fun in them. Do note there are no seat belts in the tuk-tuks, so you ride at your own risk.

Empanada Lady near Cuatro Esquinas

While doing my (diligent) research on things to do in Guatape, I came across what a few people dubbed the “Empanada Lady”. Kinda like my tortilla lady in San Pancho! Lover of all things fried, we made it our mission to find this special lady! Old reports claim she sets up shop near Cuatro Esquinas after 3pm, but when we went over there (and even asked nearby shop owners), she was nowhere to be found! 

We totally thought they were wrong and outdated, and we were unfortunately, shit outta luck. Well, I’m happy to report we finally found her (!!!) at 10am the next morning and she is in fact still dishing up her famous empanadas. 

We couldn’t believe just how cheap they were – less than 75cents (USD) for TWO scorching hot empanadas. What a perfect breakfast treat that was! 

Now, I’m not sure if she’s got regular hours or she comes around when she feels like it, but locals seem to know her schedule. There was a whole slew of locals gathered around her street stand. If you speak a decent amount of Spanish, definitely ask when she’s typically there as I unfortunately cannot give you exact days/times!

Snack on strawberries and meringue 

Mmmm strawberries and meringue and whipped cream – I swear this is the best dessert in all of Guatapé. You’ll find this little stand with the sweetest lady near the main square on Calle 31. 

We randomly stumbled upon this hole in the wall one night while walking around town, and I’m so glad we stopped for some strawberries. 

Such a surprising dessert – and ridiculously sweet (and a decent sized portion) so I couldn’t finish the entire plate. And at only ~8,000COP (~$2USD), it’s well worth the few pesos. Look out for the cheerful “merengon” sign in bold, red letters – that’s where the strawberries are!

Walk down Calle del Recuerdo

Calle del Recuerdo is one of the most picturesque streets in all of Guatape, and I think we walked down half a dozen times. Sorry, husband! It was so colorful and pretty and I just couldn’t stop taking photos! 

Those hanging flower pots really made the street so different from the others. Don’t miss the traditional fountain at the entrance of the Calle del Recuerdo – it’s got working men decked out in color (obviously). 

The street was actually created to honor the town’s past, and thus, translates to “Memory Street”.

Helicopter flight over the lake

Don’t have the energy to climb Piedra del Peñol? Book yourself on an epic helicopter flight over the stunning emerald lake and tiny green islands. Be sure to book in advance as this activity gets sold out fast – I mean, just look at those views! 

Pretty stunning if you ask me. And trust me, helicopters are always a lot of fun (here’s my experience in Canada and Hawaii).

Go on a boat tour

Guatape is built around a man-made reservoir, so of course one of the best things to do in Guatape is to get out on the water itself! I recommend signing up for one in advance, but if you decide to head out on a whim, you can always head down to the malecon and see if there are any offering tours that day.

Most boat tours are about an hour, and pass by La Cruz, Piedra del Penol, and even the ruins of Pablo Escobar’s vacation home. After all that energy spent climbing up the rock, I bet you’ll want a more relaxing activity. And if you’re a sucker for stunning panoramas like me, you’ll love just gazing out onto the water. 

Since it was pretty rainy on our first day, we decided to skip the boat tour, but I so wish we signed up for one the next day! 

Hang out on the lake

Since lake life is such a big thing here in Guatape, there’s plenty to keep you busy. Rent kayaks or paddle boards and paddle to a multitude of little islands, whip around the lake on jet skis, or even cruise around in your very own boat (if you’ve got a bunch of people in your party). There’s lots of equipment to rent and tons of aquatic adventure sports, so decide in advance what you wanna prioritize. 

One way to raise that adrenaline? Parasailing and paragliding! These are some of the biggest thrills in the area, and are perfect for you adventure seekers out there. You can even rappel a nearby waterfall or scale El Penol itself!

So there ya have it – my complete guide of things to do in Guatape! What are you most excited about? Ready to climb up the 740 steps of El Penol?!

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Climbing La Piedra del Peñol: Gorgeous Views from Guatape Rock in Colombia https://apassionandapassport.com/la-piedra-del-penol-guatape-rock-colombia/ https://apassionandapassport.com/la-piedra-del-penol-guatape-rock-colombia/#respond Mon, 09 May 2022 03:58:58 +0000 https://apassionandapassport.com/?p=23292 Headed to Guatape and planning to make the semi-strenuous climb up La Piedra del Peñol? Here’s everything you need to know (and more) about the Guatape rock! When to go, what to wear, and most importantly, what to eat at the top!  If you’re headed to Guatape, there’s a good chance you’re planning to hikeContinue Reading

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Headed to Guatape and planning to make the semi-strenuous climb up La Piedra del Peñol? Here’s everything you need to know (and more) about the Guatape rock! When to go, what to wear, and most importantly, what to eat at the top! 

If you’re headed to Guatape, there’s a good chance you’re planning to hike Piedra del Peñol. And for good reason – it’s easily the most iconic thing to do in this colorful lakeside pueblo! It practically towers over Antioquia, Colombia, with spectacular, sweeping views from the top. I mean, just look at that photo! Views for days!

And before we get into it, let’s start off with this, because it can be quite confusing. La Piedra del Peñol, the Guatape rock, The Stone of El Peñol, Piedra de Guatape, and El Penon de Guatape are all referring to the same exact massive monolith towering over the town. It’s also simply known as La Piedra (The Rock). It’s got plenty of names, but don’t let that fool you. There’s only one 220-meter rock jutting out of the landscape. Phew – and yes, that means only one rock to climb.

Psst, in spanish, the rough translations are:

  • Piedra = rock or stone
  • Penon = mass of rock

Guatape and Penol are neighboring towns, so with those 4 words, you’ve got a lot of combinations for the Rock of Guatape. I’ll be using these names interchangeably throughout the post, because well, there’s not one specific name for it.

But whatever you wanna call it, there’s no doubt it’s one of the main tourist attractions in town. Piedra del Peñol is visible pretty much anywhere you go, and as you approach it (by walking or tuk-tuk), you’ll really see just how massive this granite rock is. (Okay, so it’s also composed of quartz and feldspar and mica… I think.)

Read Next: My Complete Guatape Travel Guide (everything you need to know!)

A few interesting FAQS about Piedra del Peñol (The Rock of Guatape)  

  • The first person who climbed La Piedra del Peñol did so in 1954. They didn’t have the safe smooth stairs (and handrails) like we do – they scaled the side of the rock in its crevice and then repelled down. What a massive feat that must have been! Isn’t it wild when you think about how things were accomplished way back when?!
  • Piedra de Guatape is one of the largest monoliths in the world at 220 meters tall. The Corcovado in Rio de Janeiro (where Christ the redeemer stands), Uluru in Australia, Devil’s Tower in Wyoming, and El Capitan in Yosemite National Park (California) also make it on this list.
  • Only ⅓ of the rock’s height is visible. This means, beneath the surface and that glistening lake, there’s still another ⅔ of rock! Wild! 
  • The monolith completely stands out in its landscape! Typically, when there’s massive rocks, there’s other massive rocks nearby. Not the case with Gautape rock. It is surrounded by grassy plains, lakes, and other flat surfaces. 
  • The rock is almost entirely smooth! The stairs are wedged into the one long crack in Piedra de Guatape – and that’s what you and thousands of other annual visitors will climb to the tippy top!
  • Guatape Rock is a natural formation, but the lake is man-made. Yup, half and half! We’ll get into this a bit below.

History of El Penol

Guatape rock has quite a long and fascinating local history. Experts believe the rock was formed over 70 million years ago, and worshiped by the Tahami people, indigenous to the region at the time. Nowadays, the original village of El Peñol lies underneath the famous stone. Yup – an entire village submerged under the lake! Wait, what?! How wild and crazy is that?!

Let me explain….

Guatape was once a farming community dedicated to livestock, mining, and agriculture. It was founded in 1714, and then became a municipality in 1867. All very typical up until then for those times. 

But then, in 1970, the Colombian government decided, hey, let’s switch things up! They flooded all the surrounding hills and valleys and even the original village of El Penol (yes, where people lived!). Why do such a thing?! To create a network of freshwater lakes. 

ON PURPOSE. Like, what?! Super bizarre! You can even see the cross where the old church once stood when the water falls below a certain level. 

Yes, people were displaced and lost their homes, and were thankfully given compensation and new homes on higher ground. But they had to give up their old lives, their entire village, their homes, and their memories. Super sad when you think about it.

Why? To construct a huge hydroelectric complex and the current Peñol-Guatapé reservoir.

This 5500-acre reservoir and dam currently generates a third of the energy in all of Colombia, so I guess you can say it’s kinda important. But those poor people – so sad. And this just happened about 50 years ago!

El Penol Today

Since then, the two nearby towns, Guatape and El Penol, have fought over who the rock belongs to. And more likely, who gets the tourism money it collects. I get it – it’s a huge tourist attraction bringing in a whole lot of pesos.

Guatape decided they won (I have no clue how, haha), and decided to claim it once and for all by starting to write the town’s name on the side. You can still see the two huge G U in bold, yellow letters on one side of the rock. El Penol stepped in before they could finish.

This is why there’s so many names for the rock! Both towns claim it as their own! But thankfully, there’s only ONE massive rock to climb!

Logistics of Climbing Piedra del Peñol

When to Visit The Famous Guatape Rock

There’s never a horrible time to climb up La Piedra del Peñol, but like most tourist attractions, some days are better than others. Here’s when to visit!

Time of year: Since the temperature doesn’t change too much during the year, there’s not really a best time to visit Guatape. It tends to rain a lot no matter the season (which is why you’ll see more cloudy photos than those with intense sunshine), with the rainiest season from May to November. However, we encountered a massive thunderstorm in late March, so…. you really never know what you’re gonna get! 

Crowds: In terms of crowds, Guatape will be at its busiest during the Christmas and Easter holidays. You’ll find it way busier on the weekends than during the week, as locals head from Medellin to Guatape to spend relaxing weekends at the lake. 

With that being said, if you’ve got flexibility in your Colombia itinerary, aim to visit Guatape during the week – it’ll be far less crowded.

Time of day: Head to Guatape rock as early as possible! Entrance to Piedra de Guatape opens at 8am, and if you can, I highly recommend arriving as soon as you can buy a ticket. As the day goes on, the rock and its stairs get increasingly more crowded. 

I think we can all agree that being squished between hordes of tourists ALSO walking up 740+ steps at varying speeds isn’t the most fun. 

Plus, the air’s typically cooler in the morning which will make the climb more refreshing and less hot and sticky.

How to Get to La Piedra del Peñol

Getting to Guatape

First things first, you’ll need to get yourself over to Guatape, as that’s where Piedra de Penol is located! The town is crazy colorful, and you’ll wanna explore before/after climbing up the giant Guatape rock! 

Coming from Medellin it’s super easy; there’s essentially three ways to get to Guatape:

  • Public Bus 
  • Taxi/Uber
  • Guided Day Trips 

A little about each:

1. Public buses run from Terminal Norte in northern Medellin each and every day from 6am to 7pm. They take about 2 hours, and are pretty comfortable! No bad things to say about the bus! Tickets cost 17,000COP per person each way, which comes out to roughly $4.25. Talk about an absolute steal! Buy them from Counter 14 downstairs, which is where you’ll find the Sotrasanvicente & Guatape La Piedra company who serve Guatape.

Psst: If you’re only in Guatape for a day and taking the bus from Medellin, you can ask the driver to stop at Piedra del Peñol before ending its journey in town. It’s actually a tad bit cheaper than bussing all the way to Guatape Town, so you can tell the ticket attendant at Sotrasanvicente & Guatape La Piedra and you’ll pay a slightly cheaper fare.

2. Taxi/Uber: Want zero hassle at all? Consider taking a taxi all the way from Medellin to Guatape! The ride should cost about $35USD, and take roughly 2 hours. Not terrible if you’ve got a few friends to split the bill with, or had a few too many aguardiente shots the night before and don’t think you’ll make it on the bus. 

Plan to take the bus back to Medellin though, since you’ll have a hard time finding a taxi to take you all the way back to the city.

3. Guided day trips are super popular to get from Medellin to Guatape. If you’ve only got time for one day in Guatape, and want the day to go super smoothly, sign yourself up for a day trip! Being 2 hours away each way, if you don’t leave super early, you’ll waste half the day on the bus anyways. 

Make the most of your day and sign up for a day tour! These Guatape tours show you the best of the best of town (with time for climbing up El Penon, wandering the colorful town, and even lunch and a boat trip), and are super inexpensive. And they’re a really good value, at just around $35 a person! Take the easy way out – there’s no shame in doing so!

For way more specifics on how to get from Medellin to Guatape, read this post about everything you need to know for your upcoming trip to Guatape! Besides describing in detail how to get there, it’s got all my favorite things to do, whether I think a day trip or overnight trip is best, and what/where to eat! 

How to Get from Guatape Town to El Peñón de Guatapé

Thankfully, it’s quite simple to get to the rock of Guatape once you’re in Guatape town. There’s essentially 4 ways to reach the massive monolith:

1. Tuk-Tuk from Guatape Town: We chose to take a tuk-tuk from Guatape town right from the bus station (where we got dropped off that morning). You can also find plenty of tuk-tuks hanging around waiting for passengers near the massive fountain across from Our Lady of Carmen – the town’s ‘iglesia’ (church). 

The rides are short at just around 10-15 minutes, and cost 12k pesos for 2 people. Thankfully, the price is controlled so no need to haggle and you don’t need to worry about unfortunately getting overcharged. You’ll need cash for the tuk-tuk so make sure you have enough for both ways.

And lemme tell ya – riding in a tuk-tuk is an experience in and of itself! It’s basically a 3-wheeled colorful clown car, and tons of fun! Highly recommended if you’ve never ridden in one before (I had previously in Guatemala and Thailand, but will never give up a chance for another fun ride!).

2. Bus from Guatape Town: I don’t have tons of information on this as we chose to tuk-tuk it over to El Peñón de Guatapé. I know the bus departs from the Guatapé main station and takes about 15 minutes to reach the rock of guatape. The bus ticket shouldn’t cost more than $2USD.

3. Walking! Wanna stretch your legs before climbing up El Penol?! You can make the 45 minute walk from town to the base of the rock. I heard there’s a cool swinging bridge, so that’d be neat to check out. While the views are pretty spectacular, plan for heat and humidity (yes, typically year around) and the walk is completely uphill. So… be prepared! Walking is free though!

4. Driving and Parking at El Penol: If you’re visiting Guatape yourself by car or motorbike, you can easily park your vehicle at the base of the rock for about $.50 USD. I don’t know if I’ll be braving those windy Colombian roads myself anytime soon though!

The Guatape Rock “Hike

Climbing La Piedra del Peñol

Climbing up La Piedra del Peñol is one of the most classic things to do in Guatape. And for good reason! It boasts some of the best views in the entire world (I don’t lie). The view is absolutely spectacular – there’s a reason it’s become pretty insta-famous over the last few years! 

But it’s not for the faint of heart – La Piedra Del Penol is over 700 feet high with a whopping 740 concrete steps.

And boy is it a semi-strenuous climb! I had to stop numerous times to catch my breath and let my tired legs rest. I call them “photo stops”, haha. My marathon-running husband was just fine, so it really depends on your fitness level. 

The staircase literally zig-zags straight up the side of La Piedra de Guatape. Did you hear me – STRAIGHT UP. Climbing Guatape rock is definitely pretty challenging, but hardly unmanageable. If I can do it, you can do it.

The stairs are numbered every 25 steps or so, which is awesome and frustrating all at once. On one hand, you get to see just how many steps you’ve already climbed. But if you’re just getting started, it’s kinda a slap in the face when you realize you’re hot and tired and you still have 500+ more. But keep on trekking – the views are worth it in the end, promise!

Psst: The steps up felt pretty safe, but will be quite slippery if it’s rained recently. Be extra careful! Also, there’s lots of traffic on the steps at peak times, so if you’re going on the slower side, let people pass you.

If you can’t make it to the very top for any reason, don’t fret. There’s an observation deck right around the halfway mark. And honestly, the views are spectacular along the entire climb. But I’d focus on making it up. Once we got to the top?! Those stunning views of the lake were more than worth the tough climb. 

At the Top

Views, views, and more views! Once you reach the top, you’ll get an absolutely spectacular 360-degree bird’s eye view of the lake and nearby towns. This is the highest point in all of Guatape, and I promise you, all the huffing and puffing is well worth the effort. After seeing plenty of photos on IG and online, I promise you the views are even better in person. 

You’ll get panoramic views of Guatape Lake, all the little islands, and the deep blue-green water. Absolutely mesmerizing. Reminded me a tiny bit of the fjords in Norway on our Preikestolen hike (ok, fine, maybe just in the slightest). But this is NOT what I pictured Colombia to look like! Did you?!

We even witnessed a marriage proposal at the very top! Whether the girl said yes is another story, haha. I think she eventually decided, but boy was the crowd worried for a few moments there.

Unfortunately it started downpouring a few moments after we made it to the top, but the rain quickly subsided and we got to witness the views we came up for. Take all the photos you want – I doubt you’ll be climbing up Piedra del Penol again on this trip.

Relax and Indulge! Once you make it up and have gotten all your pictures, it’s time to relax and soak up the views! At the top, you’ll see a few restaurants, souvenir gift shops, and picnic tables and chairs. 

Treat yourself to whatever you damn well please – you just walked up 700+ steps! Salty mango micheladas (a speciality over here), fresh fruit, ice cream, and obleas (yummy Colombian wafers slathered with caramel) await!

At the sake of sounding like my mother, pace yourself with the (alcoholic) drinks! Sure, you just climbed up a few hundred steps (for which you should be damn proud of), but… you still gotta make it back down! You don’t wanna be tipsy walking down 740 steps – that sounds like a disaster waiting to happen. Be safe and smart and your body will thank you. If it’s hot out, definitely hydrate at the top, with some water!

Head back down! 

You’ll be glad to know there’s separate sets of staircases for those going up the rock and those coming down. If not, everyone would be running into each other and the whole thing would be absolute madness! 

My legs felt like complete jello after about 100 steps down, but it was honestly not that terrible. And way less excruciating than climbing up. Again, take breaks when you need to, and hold on to the handrail (I was holding on for dear life most of the way down).

This is actually when that massive thunderstorm I was talking about started. We had about 75 steps left to go, and essentially got stuck on the flooded stairs! It was wild I tell ya, and something we’ll never, ever forget.

What to Wear and Bring

Remember, you’re walking up 740+ steps (and then back down) – BE COMFORTABLE! Depending on the day, you may wanna bring/wear a rain jacket and/or sweater. The weather changes super frequently over here! 

I wore the farthest thing from workout clothes – a short dress and sandals, haha. It wasn’t the most practical on the way down (since we ended up getting stuck in a wild thunderstorm), but I managed! I’ll say this – know your comfort level.

Most people wore work out pants/shorts or jeans, and I can’t imagine wearing something so constricting up all 700+ steps! I was perfectly fine in my dress.

A few additional tips:

Bring (and use!!!) lots of sunscreen: Guatape gets hot and the sun is crazy strong over here. It’s near the equator AND at a higher elevation; what do you expect?! You don’t wanna get a nasty burn! Slather on that sunscreen; yes, even if it’s cloudy! Sun rays can peek through no matter what.

Wear practical shoes:  If you’re a dress and sandals kinda girl – do it! Plenty of people wear them (myself included). I’d just make sure to choose a sandal that’s securely strapped to your foot – meaning no flimsy flip flops! Sneakers will always be your best bet, but since it’s hot and humid here, just know carefully chosen sandals will be fine.

Bring enough cash: You’ll need enough pesos for the ride over, the Guatape rock entrance fee, snacks/drinks at the top, and eventually, a ride back to town. 100k COP (~$25USD) will be plenty per person. 20k for entrance fee, 12k for a ride over (for two people), 12-15k for a ride back to town (for 2 people), and the rest for snacks/drinks at the top. You can bring a bit less if you only need a tuk-tuk for one.

Don’t bring too much: Remember, whatever you have with you on your body, you’ll be hauling up 740 steps. Don’t make the climb even more strenuous than it has to be by bringing unnecessary things. If you’re just in Guatape for the day, be extra mindful of this. We stayed the night so we were able to put whatever we didn’t need in the hotel room, but you may not have this luxury. 

Wear a hands-free purse or backpack: As you climb up the rock, you’ll want to be able to hold on to the railing or steady yourself on the steps. Don’t make this difficult with a bag you need to hold on to. A crossbody works wonders here.

Don’t worry about bringing snacks. I say this because I’m that lady who always has granola bars and pretzels in her purse, especially when I’m doing any kind of physical activity. You’ll see plenty of snack stalls and cafes at both the base of the rock and at the very top, so you can treat yourself before/after.

Are you looking forward to climbing up Piedra de Penol?! The saturated blues and greens are definitely worth the hype – there’s truly nothing like it in the world!

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30 Cartagena Instagram Spots: All My Favorite Photo Spots in Cartagena, Colombia https://apassionandapassport.com/cartagena-photo-spots-for-instagram/ https://apassionandapassport.com/cartagena-photo-spots-for-instagram/#comments Thu, 28 Apr 2022 06:23:14 +0000 https://apassionandapassport.com/?p=23249 Headed to Colombia and looking for all the best photo spots in Cartagena? I’ve rounded up my favorite Cartagena instagram spots, so you can ensure you get all the iconic photos you want and more! Ever since I saw a photo of Cartagena I instantly knew I wanted to go. There’s cobblestone streets, colorful colonialContinue Reading

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Headed to Colombia and looking for all the best photo spots in Cartagena? I’ve rounded up my favorite Cartagena instagram spots, so you can ensure you get all the iconic photos you want and more!

Ever since I saw a photo of Cartagena I instantly knew I wanted to go. There’s cobblestone streets, colorful colonial buildings dripping with bougainvillea, historic stone archways, and impressively detailed doors. And plus, there’s cheesy, melt-in-your-mouth arepas and allll the freshest fruit you could want.

If you have a thing for colorful cities and destinations (like say, Austin, Guatape, Sayulita, Nashville, Salvation Mountain, etc), you’re gonna love Cartagena. I just know it!

While I love that you’re looking for specific Cartagena photo spots, trust me when I say the ENTIRE city is one big instagram feed waiting to happen. It’s impossible to take note of every single colorful door or fruit stand. That’s the beauty of Cartagena – you really never know what you’re gonna find! 

Read Next: My Full Guide to Cartagena (including things to do, where to stay, where to eat, and SO much more…literally everything you need to know to plan your trip!)

So of course, keep on reading my list of instagrammable spots in Cartagena, but just realize you’ll easily find plenty of your own while you’re there! The Walled City is a UNESCO World Heritage Site for a reason, so bring along your camera and girlfriends and plan on a few too many photo shoots. 

Love photographing the spots you visit? Same here! I’ve got quite a few photo guides to other destinations I’ve been to, including San Francisco, Austin, San Diego, Oahu, Mexico City, and London! Check those out if you’ve got travel plans – how fun!

So…. With that being said, here’s a whole bunch of photo spots in Cartagena – from the city’s most gorgeous rooftop pools, colorful streets and homes, restaurants/bars/coffee shops, and of course those famous Cartagena icons! My favorite instagram spots in Cartagena, coming right up!

Cartagena Photo Spots Tips

But first, a few things to keep in mind when photographing Cartagena:

1. Be aware of harsh lighting: Shoot early in the day, on a cloudy day, or an hour before sunset for your best chance of photos without those nasty shadows. Sometimes it’ll be inevitable (we randomly found the most charming doors/buildings at all times of day), but I made sure to get out early for particular spots I really wanted to see/photograph! 

Plus, if you get out early, you’ll get to see the city waking up and coming to life, as well as beat the disgusting heat and humidity. I complained about it way too much in my full guide to Cartagena

2. Bring a wide-angle lens: A lot of the streets in Cartagena are pretty narrow, so if you’re trying to photograph a particular door/building from head-on, it’ll be tough to capture most of its beauty without a wide-angle lens. My phone worked perfectly fine, just something to keep in mind if you’re using a DSLR and don’t have something as wide.

3. Be extra careful: Of yourself and your belongings. A lot of these photo spots in Cartagena are right on the street — With cars and people and horses and street carts and everything in between. Watch out and never turn your back to the street! Another benefit of getting out early – there’ll be less cars (and less people) blocking your shot!

4. Be mindful of your stuff: Using a tripod will be pretty tricky, so just something to keep in mind (thankfully my husband tolerated my aggressive photo taking – thanks babe!). With that being said, if you have additional bags (and/or don’t want your tote bags in your photos), I’d give them to a friend to hold instead of leaving them on the ground. 

We felt safe in Cartagena, but petty crimes still do happen – don’t make yourself an easy target.

5. Never photograph children: You’ll undoubtedly see lots of kids out and about, playing in the streets and in the plazas. While these make for awesome street photography opportunities,they’re not worth the risk. 

Unless you specifically ask their parents, I would steer clear of photographing kids (unless they’re super far away and you can’t see their face). This is just safe practice anyways, for everywhere you go. Keep the kids safe!

6. Wander! While I’m doing my absolute best to include all my favorite places in Cartagena to take photos, half the fun of it is just wandering around and coming across colorful buildings and houses. You never know what you’ll find – spend a morning just wandering and I bet you’ll find oh so much unexpected beauty!

And now finally, my favorite instagram spots in Cartagena!

Icons of Cartagena

Every city’s got its icons, and Cartagena is no exception! From the castles and walls where pirates were fought off to the famous Santa Catalina Cathedral and clock tower, there’s no shortage of epic photo spots in Cartagena!

1. Iconic Cathedral Santa Catalina on Calle de Don Sancho

You can’t visit Cartagena and not visit Santa Catalina Cathedral – it’s one of the most recognizable buildings in the entire city! And magnificent it is, with a black and white marble floor, limestone exterior, and the original baroque 18th-century gilded altar. And it’s by far one of the best photo spots in Cartagena! 

In order to get the coveted shot with the cathedral in the background, you’ll wanna stand a few blocks away from the cathedral itself on Calle de Don Sancho. Stand in the street and be patient! 

Tip: Plan to head here early if you don’t want bypassers in your photos – this is a busy, popular street! While the road is typically open to cars (and trucks!), it’s sometimes closed off so you may just get lucky!

2. Fruit carts

You’ll find fruit carts all around the city, literally overflowing with all the fruits you can imagine. Think yummy mangos, bright red watermelon slices, ripe granadillas (a sweeter version of a passionfruit – our new obsession), uchuvas (a south american cherry we couldn’t get enough of), papaya, and so much more. 

You can also buy fresh coconuts and watch the vendors slice them open to drink. What’s more Caribbean than wandering around town with a coco in hand?! 

Do note that while most street vendors don’t mind you taking photos of their fruit carts, do NOT even attempt to photograph the Palenqueras or their fruit (Afro-Colombian ladies in bright colorful dresses balancing bowls of fruit on their heads) – I basically got shooed away trying to take a photo of a perfect looking mangosteen.

3. San Felipe Castle

Feel like wandering around a real life castle?! You need to head over to Castillo San Felipe de Barajas! It’s by far the greatest fortress ever built by the Spaniards, completed way back in 1536. 

Why?! To protect the city from attacks for over 400 years (remember – pirates tried to invade Cartagena plenty of times). And the castle makes for one of the best Cartagena instagram spots! Don’t miss a shot in one of the tunnels, with the huge Colombian flag at the top, and of the view from the fortress! 

A word of advice – bring water! It’s only a short hike to the top, but in that intense heat and humidity, you don’t wanna get dehydrated. 

4. El Portal De Los Dulces

Translating to The Portal of Sweets, you know this place is gonna be muy delicioso! No, it’s not your typical candy shop like you’re probably used to, but here you’ll find traditional Colombian sweets. It’s basically one big candy market just bursting with color and vendors. 

Take some different types of shots – up close to the sweets, the yellow arches from afar, with the vendors selling them (ask to photograph them first), etc. I couldn’t get over just how colorful the candies are – so fun to photograph! 

We bought a small box for 5 COP (~1.50USD) to try some of them. Spoiler alert, they weren’t our absolute favorite, but still fun to try nonetheless!

5. Walls at Sunset

Sunsets in Cartagena are legendary. If you’re lucky to catch a few good ones (it was unfortunately a bit hazy during our visit), you’ll be blown away by the colors. And the city walls are one of the best places in Cartagena to watch (and photograph!) the sunset! 

If you wanna join in on the party, head to Cafe del Mar for an overpriced drink (yes, it’s pretty touristy and crowded), or buy a few beers from the street vendors right on the walls. We had fun taking photos of not only the sunset, but the stone fortifications also!

6. Clock Tower

Also known as the Monumento Torre del Reloj in Spanish, the yellow clock tower is one of the best photo spots in Cartagena. It’s actually the main city gate of Cartagena, and the original entrance to the fortified city! 

Being quite tall, you’ll see it from around town depending where you are. It might even be one of the most famous landmarks in all of Colombia! We got great views of the clock tower at sunset one night from the rooftop of the Mirador Gastro Bar. 

Pretty, Colorful Streets in Centro/San Diego

If you’re looking for some of the ABSOLUTE best photo spots in Cartagena, the colorful streets in the Centro and San Diego neighborhoods will be your favorite – promise you that! I could have wandered around for hours just shooting… but alas, I don’t think the husband would have appreciated that. 

You’ll see charming, old wooden doors, crazy tall doors, and doors in every color imaginable – light teal doors, hot pink doors, bright yellow doors, etc, etc, etc. My favorites were those with contrasting colors between the doors and buildings – how fun! 

And if you’ve got a contrasting colored outfit on, you’ll really pop! Although leave your dark clothing (especially black) at home! You’re in the Caribbean damnit – have some fun with your clothing! Just make sure they’re light and breathable! That sun is like no other.

While you’re looking for these photo spots in Cartagena, be sure to look out for the famous iguana door knockers! They were indicative of wealth and social status back in the day. How creative! We also saw owls, lions, sea snakes, and all kinds of mythical animals/creatures. I’d love a sea turtle door knocker on my front door. 

Psst – as I noted above, I’m attempting to include all my favorite streets in the Walled City, but honestly, it’s really hard to keep track of exactly where each house/door is! Kinda like when I went crazy photographing the colorful doors in Palm Springs, haha. They all kinda blend together in my mind after a while! 

But don’t fret – go for a wander and you’re bound to find PLENTY of bright, colorful buildings and doors! They’re all over! And look out for the pink bougainvillea and other greenery cascading down the buildings – it’s all so beautiful! Can you tell I can’t wait to go back?!

7. Calle de la Cochera del Hobo (Carrera 8)

Ohhh I loved this street so much! Tons and tons (and tons) of color, this charming street with pink bougainvilleas was probably one of my favorites. 

Walk down a bit and you’ll see a huge Colombian flag, probably some Palenqueras with fruit baskets, balconies with bougainvillea, and some street vendors selling authentic Colombian woven bags. It’s quite long, and if you keep walking, you’ll end up right at the Caribbean Sea. 

8. Bright Pink House on Calle 38

Just look at those colors! A punchy watermelon pink building with the prettiest teal door ever. How could you not swoon over it? And with all that greenery cascading down? So gorgeous! It even has a lion door knocker! 

I’d seen this photo on IG before, and after a little digging around, I figured out it was right near Carmen. Basically one block down. Put Carmen Cartagena into your GPS and you’ll find it no problem, but if for whatever reason you can’t, here’s the exact address: Cl. 38 #8-78. You’re welcome. 🙂

9. Carrera 9

Another one of the prettiest streets in the city, and by far one of the best areas if you’re looking for Cartagena instagram spots! Talk about an absolute dream – there’s a house of every single color imaginable. 

A light blue building with the brightest pink door and window covers, a muted pink building with the most gorgeous greenery cascading down, vines hanging down between a yellow and baby pink building. All so perfect. 

Psst – if you put in La Pepita or La Diva you’ll find this street and all its color super easily, wink wink.

10. Calle del Candilejo

Okay, so you won’t find the colorful buildings and metal door knockers here, but I couldn’t leave this street out! It’s right by Pan de pono (which you need to try – both the pandebono and guava pastry), and the curve of the street is so pretty to photograph! 

The buildings are more of a muted pastel, and I found the architecture of these historic buildings to be so charming – exactly what Cartagena is like.

Instagrammable Hotels and Pools

Before researching where to stay in Cartagena, I didn’t have a clue as to how many charming pools are in this little city. I guess that makes sense – that midday sun will get you, and cooling off in the pool is one way to beat the heat. Many hotels are restored historic mansions, and this just keeps with the authentic theme of the city.

11. Ananda Boutique Hotel

This is where we stayed the majority of the time, and we absolutely LOVED our stay here. And no, I didn’t choose this spot because I knew it’d be one of the best Cartagena instagram spots, haha. 

While you won’t be able to explore every nook and cranny if you aren’t a guest, you can stop by for lunch (and sneak a quick glimpse of the courtyard pool). 

I couldn’t believe all the details of the space – the colorful colonial breakfast area, water spouting from the rustic fountain at the pool, beautiful wooden beams and architectural features, balconies with overflowing flowers cascading down, and a colorful, rooftop pool area (yes, there’s two pools here!). So Cartagena!

12. Casa San Agustin

Ohhhh, Casa San Agustin. If you’re gonna splurge on one hotel during your time in Colombia, this is THE place to do it. This gorgeous hotel is considered the best 5 star hotel in all of Cartagena, easily. 

We came here for lunch one day, and although we could only see small glimpses of the hotel, it’s the real deal, folks. There’s so much greenery it low-key feels like you’re loungin’ in a super posh jungle-scape. It’s exquisite and contemporary and historic all at once. 

Definitely on my hotel bucket list, and I’ll be making sure to spend at least a night here if my budget allows in the future (it’s typically $500/night or so).

13. Nacar Cartagena

One of the more modern hotels and pools we saw in the area, and I couldn’t get enough of that swoon-worthy rooftop pool! The fact that it was super quiet sure helped a lot. 

A few of my favorite photo spots: of course underneath the sunbeds at the stunning rooftop pool, at Freso, the in-house breakfast restaurant with its banana leaf wallpaper and punchy striped seats, the brick and stone archways, views from the top floor, the perfectly arranged mirrors in the entrance, and the cute little tuk tuk with strings of flower pots hanging down.

14. Hotel Casa La Factoria

We randomly stumbled into Casa La Factoria when something in the attached restaurant caught my eye. And in I went! With its black and white checkered floor, rattan chairs, and spectacular chandeliers, this is easily one of the best photo spots in Cartagena. 

But that double-stoned archway near the pool is really something! If you choose to stay at La Factoria, promise me you’ll take an epic photo in the pool. Dare I say it — but this photo may be just as grand as a photo in the pool at Casa San Agustin?!

15. Movich Hotel

Hotel Movich is easily the best spot in town for sunset! Aim to get there around an hour or so before the sun goes down, as this spot gets crowded, and for good reason. The views are absolutely to die for. The terrace overlooks not only the iconic Santa Ana Cathedral, but the church of San Pedro Claver as well. 

Plus, there’s the modern skyscrapers of Bocagrande behind it all. Views from every angle – I promise! Take photos of your drinks against the pastel sky, overlooking the Cartagena skyline, and of the pool with a view (next time I wanna get a day pass!). I really wanted a photo of me further away down by the pool bed but it was crowded and I couldn’t get my shot. Just luck of the draw, unfortunately. 

Do note Hotel Movich is super popular for private parties (people get married here, the views are that good!), so I suggest heading there on your first night to find out when the rooftop will be open to the public.

Getsemani

Walking around Getsemani, you’ll instantly see why this neighborhood is one of the most instagrammable spots in Cartagena! And Cartagena photo spots there are – all around Getsemani! It’s grittier and grungier than the Walled City, with its own charm and authenticity. You’ll undoubtedly come across plenty of insta-worthy streets and cafes just wandering around, but I’m sharing the most popular! 

Psst – a little backstory. Getsemani was considered a highly dangerous area back in the early 2000s, but it’s since been completely transformed. There’s now hip hotels and artsy cafés, and we felt completely safe walking around during the day. 

But of course this gentrification is both a blessing and a curse – local eateries are changing into trendy restaurants, and family-run hostels are closing with boutique hotels opening up. Just wanted to give you a little context with hopes that you’ll support the family-run businesses here. 

16. Calle Tripita y Media

You’ll definitely come across Calle Tripita y Media on your wander around Getsemani — it’s the neighborhoods’ main street after all. Expect lots of fluttering flags (in both the colors of the Colombian flag as well as others), street vendors, and restaurants lining the side. 

Snap a selfie and be sure to try a Kola Roman — a soft drink created right here in Cartagena! It’s crazy sweet so you’ll probably wanna share a bottle (we could only take a few sips each before the sugar rush happened).

17. Murals of Getsemani

There’s no shortage of murals around here — each one more colorful than the last! Take a stroll around the Getsemani neighborhood and you’ll find a whole bunch. The neighborhood is known for its vibrant and striking street art after all. Created by both local and international artists, these murals/graffiti pieces are full of energy and life. 

The first murals appeared on Calle Sierpe, but now you can find them all over town! And they’ve got a lot of deep meaning — You can learn about the history of the neighborhood just by looking at its street art!

A few of the most popular pieces of the street art you’ll find around town are:

  1. María Mulata (the official bird of Cartagena de Indias) in Plaza de la Santísima Trinidad by artist Yurika
  2. Palenqueras, you’ll find several murals in Getsemani depicting these strong woman selling fruit 
  3. Infectious Smile (a portrait of a grinning Afro-Colombian woman) on Calle de la Sierpe, by artist DEXS 
  4. The Three Warriors (3 portraits of the same woman) by artist Fin DAC

Street art is so huge here there’s even an annual Aerosol Street Art Festival in Getsemani held every February. Too bad we just missed the festival since we were visiting in April. Next time!

18. Callejón Angosto

Umbrella streets have been popping up all over the world, and Callejón Angosto in Getsemani is one of them! Just look at how colorful all the umbrellas are! 

For the best shots, I recommend visiting either early morning or later on in the day to eliminate the nasty shadows and harsh lighting. I visited midday so did the best I could!

19. Calle de la Magdalena

Yup, there’s two umbrella streets in Cartagena, and Calle de la Magdalena is the second! These umbrellas are all purples, blues, and pinks – a gorgeous combination of colors. 

Let’s just say I got a little snap happy, haha. Again, the lighting will be difficult midday with the umbrellas casting circular shadows on the ground, but it is what it is! Gorgeous nonetheless!

20. Plaza de la Trinidad/Restaurante Palenqueras

While the plaza itself is worthy of a few photos (ohhh the people watching is some of the best over here), I loved the building right across the street — Restaurante Palenqueras. I mean, just look at it! 

A rainbow balcony with a gorgeous mural of a colonial lady with her colorful pink lips and leafy pink hair. I heard the inside is just as gorgeous and fun but I unfortunately never made it inside!

21. Calle de la Sierpe (Street of the Serpent)

World travelers – you’ll love this Cartagena photo spot! There’s flags hanging down from tons of countries around the world! Plus, all the street art on either side makes for some fun photos.

22. Calle de San Juan

This is the first street we stumbled upon in Getsemani, and couldn’t believe all the local artists selling colorful paintings along the street. It’s basically like an open air artist gallery, and get this — you can even purchase the art pieces. Hopefully you’ve got room in your suitcase (I unfortunately didn’t). 

Calle de San Juan is quite edgy, with huge murals lining the walls and more paintings than you can imagine. I really couldn’t put my camera down, whoops! Don’t miss Cafe del Mural for some of the best rated coffee in Cartagena once you need a little break from the sun!

Restaurants/Bars/Coffee Shops

I’m a sucker for cute branding, drool-worthy dishes, and leafy-green patios – they’re all so fun to photograph! So when I realized just how many cute cafes and restaurants there were in Cartagena, I made time to check them out! And after visiting, I can say they are easily some of the most instagrammable spots in Cartagena. Plus, there’s food! So you know I’m there, haha. 

23. Mirador Gastro Bar

Come here for epic views of the clock tower and plaza below. The vibe was super fun and our drinks were just perfect while waiting for the sun to set. Make sure to head up all the way to the roof, although the street-level bar looks pretty cool too! 

Maybe have a cocktail at each?! Absolutely nothing wrong with that!

24. Epoca

One of the best cafes in all of Cartagena, and it’s super pretty too! We randomly came to escape the midday heat and it was exceptionally busy! You’ll undoubtedly need to wait in line for a table, but everyone claims it’s worth it. 

Ask to sit upstairs – you’ll get great views of the colonial buildings on the street below! And ohhhh the coffee! Yes please!

25. Buena Vida

Come for the food, stay for the atmosphere and pretty drinks. Not only is the food delicious, but the presentation of dishes (and even the plates themselves) are super colorful and fun! 100% one of the most instagrammable spots in Cartagena. 

I mean, you can even sip a cocktail in a seashell (yes, a seashell!) on the roof (which typically opens at 3pm; reservation highly recommended)! Talk about instagrammable! 

26. Alma

Have a leafy green lunch at Alma, one of our favorite meals we had in the city! Being inside the insta-popular Casa San Agustin Hotel, you know Alma makes it on the list of best photo spots in Cartagena. Obviously — the hotel is legendary and crazy photogenic, including its in-house restaurant! 

Everything we ordered was delicious – lobster empanadas, avocado ceviche, grilled octopus, all of it! We were silly and ate outside (it was our first day in Cartagena and didn’t realize just how humid it was), but the courtyard was gorgeous. Sophisticated, posh, and upscale! Come early and grab a table by the pool! 

Alma’s also open for dinner, but if it’s dark out you won’t get to appreciate the outdoor area in all its glory. And I always have trouble taking photos in low-lighting, so if you don’t have mad photography skills (or the right equipment) and still wanna photograph this place, come when it’s light out.

27. Restaurante La Mulata

Craving some authentic Caribbean seafood between knocking off all these photo spots in Cartagena?! Head on over to La Mulata — the food is simple with soulful flavors in a fun space! 

28. Carmen Cartagena

By far the best meal of our trip – in all of Colombia. I’m not exaggerating. Every damn dish was pure perfection. I’m still talking about it to this day – I swear it rivals the tasting menus we’ve had in Mexico City, and that’s saying something since those are in the Top 50 restaurants! 

While the food was seriously to-die-for, the space is super chic and timeless, set in an intimate colonial house. We chose to sit indoors (the AC was calling our name), but if you can tolerate the heat better than we can, the outdoor terrace is absolutely gorgeous. Expect tons of vine-covered palm trees and a fun tiled floor!

29. Abaco Libros y Cafe

If you’ve done any research while planning your trip, I bet you’ve come across Abaco! It’s one of the most instagrammable spots in Cartagena after all, and the coffee is delicious! It’s an old school bookstore, with titles in both Spanish and English, and the most GORGEOUS stone archway. 

Plus, the books are literally stacked floor to ceiling – AND there’s a coffee bar inside! This was my husband’s favorite coffee shop in Cartagena (yes, we went to quite a few to escape the heat!). We even bought a bag of beans to bring home! And some for our friends too (yes, it was that good). 

This charming little bookstore is located right near the iconic Cartagena cathedral, so make a pit stop here for some latte frios and photos!

30. Pink Dolphin

Such an unexpected find in the middle of the Walled City — Pink Dolphin looks like a posh bar you’d find in the middle of a modern city (like New York or San Francisco). 

I loved the plush pink bar seating, dramatic black and white striped floor, leafy-green ceiling, and dreamy mood lighting. And oh yea, the drinks were pretty good too, so put this on your list of best Cartagena photo spots!

So there ya have it fam, my favorite photo spots in Cartagena! Which of these Cartagena instagram spots will you be visiting on your trip?!

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Complete Guide to Colorful Cartagena, Colombia (Things To Do Plus Suggested 3 Day Itinerary) https://apassionandapassport.com/things-to-do-in-cartagena-colombia-itinerary/ https://apassionandapassport.com/things-to-do-in-cartagena-colombia-itinerary/#respond Tue, 19 Apr 2022 04:31:43 +0000 https://apassionandapassport.com/?p=23096 Headed to South America and looking for things to do in Cartagena, Colombia? You’re in the right place, my arepa-loving, aguardiente-sipping amigos. Here you’ll find all my favorite things to do in Cartagena, along with what to eat, where to stay, how to get around, and more! I visited Cartagena on my first ever tripContinue Reading

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Headed to South America and looking for things to do in Cartagena, Colombia? You’re in the right place, my arepa-loving, aguardiente-sipping amigos. Here you’ll find all my favorite things to do in Cartagena, along with what to eat, where to stay, how to get around, and more!

I visited Cartagena on my first ever trip to South America — and boy do I wish I visited sooner! The city is charismatic yet chaotic at times, bursting with color (great for those IG shots!), and surprisingly relatively hip and bougie. Expect cobblestone streets, colorful colonial buildings, a tropical climate, all the fresh fruit (and juices) you can imagine, and delicious seafood (think ceviche and Caribbean fish).

We had the absolute best time possible, and I can’t wait to share all our favorite things to do in Cartagena! With a gorgeous historic old town (that’s entirely walkable), iconic Cartagena balconies, stone archways, overflowing flower pots, and charming doors and plazas, it’s a fantastic juxtaposition between old and new.

The city kinda reminded me of other colorful, colonial cities, like San Juan in Puerto Rico and Antigua in Guatemala. But it’s got its own charm and grit – it’s basically the Queen of the Caribbean coast! 

I tend to gravitate towards colorful cities and attractions, and Cartagena, (like Sayulita, Austin, and Salvation Mountain), definitely didn’t disappoint! I can’t wait to share all the best things to do in Cartagena in this massive post!

If you’re headed to Medellin and wanna explore another one of the most colorful towns in Colombia, head on over to Guatape. The vibes super different, yet so inexplicably colorful!

  • Psst – the city is technically called Cartagena de Indias, and pronounced kaɾ-ta-hen-uh (that g is pronounced like an H).

Cartagena Trip Planning Logistics

Where is Cartagena, Colombia

Cartagena is a port city on Colombia’s Caribbean coast in the northwestern part of the county. It’s towards the tippy top of South America, so pretty far from other popular spots like Uyuni Salt Flats in Bolivia, Buenos Aires in Argentina, and Machu Picchu in Peru. 

Also, being in the department of Bolivar (Colombia’s form of states/regions), it’s a far distance from the other main cities of Colombia — a 12 hour drive from Medellin and roughly an 18 hour drive from Bogota. But don’t worry, there’s easy flights, which we’ll dive deeper into soon!

Also, Cartagena is right on the equator, meaning high temperatures all year round. Lots more info on the weather below!

How to Get to Cartagena

Can’t wait to experience all the great things to do in Cartagena? Thankfully, the city is pretty easy to get to! I didn’t realize this before planning our trip to Colombia, but Cartagena has its very own airport — Rafael Núñez International Airport (airport code CTG). And the airport is only 15 minutes from Old Town! 

We were arriving in Cartagena from Medellin, so our flight was only about an hour or so. If you’re coming from further afield, here’s a small sampling of flight times to give you a general idea of how long your flight may be. 

International 

Unfortunately there’s only a few nonstop flights from the US that run year round, New York City (JFK) and Miami (MIA). Others are seasonal. 

Soooo you’ll probably have to make a connection if you’re coming from the US (we stopped in Panama City). For reference, our flight was roughly $550 per person, which I didn’t think was too terrible at all! 

  • From Miami (MIA): ~3 hours non stop
  • From Mexico City (MEX): ~ 4 hours non stop
  • From New York City (JFK): ~5 hours non stop
  • From Dallas (DFW): ~6 hours connecting
  • From Los Angeles (LAX): ~8 hours connecting
  • From San Francisco (SFO): ~8 ½ hours connecting

Psst – if you’re flying Copa (like we did), you can take advantage of their free stopover program (here’s all the info from our epic trip to Panama, so yeah, that’s definitely another country to check out).

Coming from Colombia 

If you’re already in Colombia, it’s relatively easy to get to Cartagena. There’s buses and flights from all major cities, although the flights may actually be cheaper (if you find a deal that is!).

  • Bogota: 21 hours via bus, 1 ½ hours via plane (nonstop flight)
  • Medellin: 14 hours via bus, 50 minutes via plane (nonstop flight)

Just look at those numbers! Since airlines need to compete with the buses, flight prices are exceptionally cheap! We found nonstop flights (with 50 pound luggage included) direct from Medellin to Cartagena for about $30USD! Yes, THIRTY DOLLARS. No way I’m wasting an entire day on a bus when I can get there in less than an hour or so).

Popular airlines in Colombia are Avianca (Star Alliance), KLM (SkyTeam), LATAM, Plus Ultra, and Viva Air. We chose to fly Avianca between cities (and this is where we found our $30 nonstop ticket!). Be careful booking low-cost airlines as they tend to nickel and dime for every little thing (not the case with Avianca).

Psst: Tourist buses in Colombia are very comfortable. And it’s actually a very popular way to get around. There are a few different reputable companies, but Copetran and Expreso Brasilia seem to be the most popular with plenty of routes. So if you don’t mind sitting on a bus for hours on end and have lots of extra time to spare, that’s another option as well. But why?!

How to Get Around Cartagena

Walk the Walled City: One of the best things about Cartagena?! The walkability factor! It takes less than 20 minutes to get from one side of the walled city to the other, and if you’re staying in the center of town like we did, nothing will be more than a 5 minute walk away. I swear! The longest walk we did was to the fort (20 minutes away) and to Getsemani (15 minutes), both well outside the Walled City.

But lemme tell you — even those 20 minutes are a killer in the intense heat and humidity. So come prepared with lots of water, slather on that sunscreen, and wear a hat. You’ll thank me later. 

Trust me, all the best things to do in Cartagena are only a matter of minutes away. 

Do note most of the streets are cobblestone, so wear your comfy sandals (and leave those heels at home). And plus, because of the city walls, it’s practically impossible to get lost if you don’t leave them!

You’ll undoubtedly see horse-drawn carriage rides around town, and while these are synonymous with a visit to Cartagena, PLEASE do not partake in these ridiculous rides. There’s been speculation that the horses are mistreated, malnourished, and plenty are just too old to be working.

Uber: You probably won’t need Ubers or taxis much since you’ll be walking practically everywhere. But you’ll of course need to use them when arriving or departing to/from the airport, and if you can’t fathom walking 20 minutes to the fort (we made the smart decision calling an Uber on the way back from the fort — we were sweaty and tired). 

We found Ubers to be very safe, clean, and reliable in Cartagena. We never waited more than 10 minutes for a car, and the prices were exceptionally reasonable! Like a 15 minute ride was less than $3! Way cheaper than at home!

And plus, there’s no language barrier so you’ll always get exactly where you need to go.

Do note that Ubers are technically a gray area in Colombia – there’s been controversies with the local taxis ever since Uber arrived in the country. And they’ve been banned in the past. Like in Medellin, most Ubers requested one of us sit in the front seat to avoid any problems – I’m guessing to hopefully stay inconspicuous (just something to be aware of).

I learned about InDriver (another ride sharing app similar to Uber) from the man sitting next to me on the plane, so that’s another option if you’d like to download it. You do have to make an offer of what you’re willing to pay, and if you’re not familiar with the rates, you’ll probably have no clue what to offer, haha. We stuck with Uber.

Bike: A bunch of high-end boutique hotels have bikes that their guests can use! Since we didn’t take any out for a spin (I’m such a klutz on a bike…), definitely ask your hotel if they have any recommendations for you (where to go/not go, will it be ok locked up in town, etc).

Taxi: While you can hail a yellow taxi super easily from anywhere in the walled city (they’re practically everywhere), I heard the drivers don’t use a meter and typically overcharge tourists. If you are using a taxi, always negotiate on a set price before getting into the car. If you don’t like the price and can’t come to an agreement, simply shut the door and find another taxi.

Public Transit: While there’s no major public transport here, you may come across some Transcaribe buses. Mostly locals use these, and since nothing is terribly far, you can probably just walk anywhere you wanna go.

Hop On Hop Off Bus: 

If you wanna see the main sites outside the walled city and really explore all the things to do in Cartagena (​​San Felipe Castle, Simon Bolivar statue, Museo de la Esmeralda, etc), consider taking the Hop On, Hop Off Bus of Cartagena! It has 14 stops and even includes a complimentary walking tour of the old town! 

We saw guides in the street promoting the activity, but if you wanna prepare, definitely book ahead (I hate waiting until the last minute and stressing out).

If you’ve only got a day in Cartagena, booking a hop-on, hop-off bus might be a good idea if you wanna explore further than the walled city. 

Weather and When to visit Cartagena

So here’s the thing about weather in Cartagena — it’s gonna be hot and humid and disgustingly sticky year round. No matter when you visit. (So yes, get a hotel with a pool.)

Why? Because Cartagena experiences a tropical Caribbean climate, meaning intense heat and humidity. There’s actually little variation in temperatures year round, although temps get up to the hundreds in July and August (I wouldn’t wanna go there then). Although it was in the high 80s when we visited, the “feels like” temperature (accounting for the humidity too) was in the mid-90s. Yuck!

We found ourselves heading back to our hotel for quick dips in the pool or sneaking into cafes for latte frios to cool ourselves off. 

We’re not used to the humidity (or harsh heat!) living in San Francisco — and the places we do love that experience high heat (Palm Springs, Orange County, Scottsdale, etc) all have dry heat — which is COMPLETELY different. 

If you’re not used to dripping constantly and sweating profusely, you’ll definitely need some time to adjust here in Cartagena. Make sure to stay hydrated (and no, coffees and pisco sours don’t count) — drink tons and tons of water.

We thought we’d get some relief from the heat and humidity once the sun went down, but nope! We were just as sticky as during the day (although the temps went down a few degrees…. from like 87 to 82, haha).

With all that being said, Cartagena does experience two distinct seasons (like other tropical countries – Thailand, Bali, etc): wet and dry

  • DRY SEASON: The best time to visit Cartagena is between December and April, during the city’s dry season. Temperatures will be hot, but manageable. 
  • WET SEASON: May through November is considered the wet season in Cartagena, and while it probably won’t completely ruin your trip, definitely expect some showers every now and then. 

For reference, we visited the end of March to very early April, and had mostly clear skies without a drop of rain. One thing I learned – NEVER trust the weather report. There was between a 50-70% chance of rain/thunderstorms every single day for the duration of our stay, and what do you know?! It didn’t rain once! You bet I was thrilled about that!

Where to Stay in Cartagena

Historic Walled City “Centro”

The historic downtown area of Cartagena is what probably enticed you to visit Cartagena in the first place. There’s fine dining and street food, luxury hotels and colorful hostels, craft cocktails and fresh fruit juice. And it’s filled with colorful colonial buildings and charming cobblestone streets – It’s a UNESCO World Heritage site afterall! 

This area’s typically more expensive than Getsemani, but it’s in the middle of all the action and you can walk practically everywhere! Easily accessible to all the fun things to do in Cartagena. Plus, it’s very safe. 

A few recommended hotels:

  • Ananda Boutique Hotel: This is where we stayed for the majority of our time in Cartagena, and I highly recommend it! The pool vibes are similar-ish to Casa San Agustin (minus all the lovely greenery), but for ½ the price. And there’s another pool on the roof overlooking the city. I’d consider the rooms rustic chic, and the cozy Mediterranean restaurant where we had breakfast every morning was super cute! It’s in the quiet part of the walled city (San Diego) so it’s very peaceful, especially at night which we appreciated. Although still never more than a 5-6 minute walk away from anything!
  • Movich Cartagena de Indias: If we didn’t stay at the Ananda, I think we would have chosen the Movich. It’s a super popular spot for sunset, since the terrace overlooks not only the iconic Santa Ana Cathedral, but all the other landmarks in the city. Easily the best panoramic views in all of the city, and one of our favorite things to do in Cartagena. And that rooftop infinity pool – OMG! Small and quaint but definitely not lacking in charm!
  • Casa San Agustin: This gorgeous hotel is considered the best 5 star hotel in all of Cartagena, easily. We came here for lunch one day, and although we could only see small glimpses of the hotel, it’s the real deal, folks. If you’re planning on splurging at some point during your trip to Colombia, this is the place to do it. Or just come for lunch like we did and sneak off to check out the pool a bit (although it was a bit smaller than expected).
  • Nacar Hotel Cartagena, Curio Collection by Hilton: I promise you, despite being a Hilton, the hotel does not feel corporate in any way. I mean, it’s located in a refurbished colonial mansion after all. I could have stayed under the cabana at the rooftop pool all day long sipping fresh lulo juice and dipping my toes in the water! Fresco, the adjoining restaurant where we ate breakfast, is so hip and fun with banana leaf wallpaper and street views from the floor to ceiling windows. AND they had a complimentary basket of granadillas at check in – which of course I dove right into.

Getsemani

If you’re looking to stay near the walled city and all the things to do in Cartagena but are traveling on a tighter budget, consider staying in Getsemani! It’s located right outside the walled city, and I swear it’s super hip – expect lots of colorful street art, cafes and restaurants, a vibrant culture, and lots of action at night (especially in Trinidad Plaza). 

We loved visiting the area during the day and I can see its appeal. It used to have a reputation for being primarily for backpackers and partiers, but more recently, there’s been some cute boutique hotels opening up! Do note that some areas can be sketchy at night, so stick to major streets with lights.

Bocagrande

Looking for that Miami Beach vibe?! You’ll find it here in Bocagrande! The area’s a mix of modern high-rise hotels and condos with lots of restaurants on the main strip of Avenida San Martin. While you’ll find more international hotel chains and less of the smaller, boutique hotels, the area’s missing that colonial charm that really makes Cartagena special in my opinion. 

These hotels are right by the beach (although not as good as the beaches of Isla Baru and Rosario Islands), so you can literally walk to the sand whenever you want! Plus, it’s considered a very safe area.

Find more hotels in Cartagena here!

Additional Tips When Visiting Cartagena

Local Currency

Ohhhh, prepare to feel like a millionaire in Cartagena (literally, 1 million COP is only ~$250USD). Like the rest of Colombia, the local currency in Cartagena is the Colombian Peso, or COP (very different from the pesos we’re used to in Mexico). 

I highly advise you to take out some pesos at an ATM at the Cartagena airport upon landing (as you’ll get the best conversion rate using an ATM and never at a currency exchange kiosk).

And cash you’ll need! We paid for almost everything in cash in Cartagena, besides our hotels and a few higher-end restaurants. I highly advise you to always have some cash on hand as you’ll undoubtedly need it for street arepas, latte frios, and fresh jugo (fruit juices) from local vendors!

At the time of writing (April 2022), 10,000 Colombian pesos (COP) is equivalent to ~$2.50 USD (or $1 USD = ~3,770 COP). I typically have an easy time converting different currencies in my head but I just couldn’t here in Colombia! We used our currency conversion apps a lot (and were always surprised how cheap things were)! 

Psst: mil means thousand, NOT million. We kept getting confused. You’ll see what I mean when you take out cash.

A rough estimate we used was: 100,000COP ≈ $25USD. To make things a bit easier, we attempted to convert by knocking off the thousands and trying that way. So instead of 100k, we simply tried to remember 100COP ≈ $25. And even that didn’t help all that much, haha. There’s no shame in using a currency app!

With that being said, do note everything is way more expensive in Cartagena than other spots in Colombia. We went to Medellin before heading to Cartagena, and everything was at least double the price in Cartagena! Still way cheaper than at our home in San Francisco though (and elsewhere in the US or Europe).

  • Tipping in Colombia:

Standard tipping is 10%, unlike the typical 20% in the USA. Some restaurants automatically add this 10% into your bill (you’ll see it listed as “propina voluntaria” – voluntary tip), so check before leaving an additional tip (unless the service was absolutely outstanding and deserves extra!)

Language

Spanish is the official language of Colombia, and practically everyone in Cartagena speaks it. It’s honestly a hit or miss as to whether people speak English or not. 

We found that less people in Colombia speak English than in other Spanish-speaking countries we visit, like Los Cabos and Sayulita in Mexico. While some hotel and restaurant staff will know a little bit of English, don’t expect to have full conversations. 

We attempted to use as much Spanish as we could (out of respect and because we kinda had to), and were able to get by with our minimal – moderate Spanish skills. 

If you don’t know any Spanish at all, there’s definitely gonna be a big language barrier. I recommend brushing up beforehand (at least some common travel phrases) and downloading a translation app for when things get tough. Practice on Duolingo for a few weeks to at least get a few important words. 

Health and Safety 

Health: While some sources say you can drink the tap water in Colombia, I honestly wouldn’t chance it — you just never know how your body will react. Why waste half your trip in the bathroom. 

With that being said, we didn’t think twice about drinking latte frios and cocktails with ice, fruit juices and other things blended with water/ice, indulging in fresh fruit/veggies, and brushing our teeth with tap water. 

If you’re like me and would rather stick to bottled water, you’ll find them ridiculously cheap in street markets. Or you can bring along a reusable water bottle with a steripen inside – a few people on our Comuna 13 tour in Medellin had them and I thought it was brilliant!

Food: We found all the food in Cartagena to be safe to eat (and yes, even the street vendors). What I didn’t realize beforehand is that Cartagena is home to some of the best restaurants in all of Colombia. 

I’ll go into way more detail about the food below, but you can expect to find both high-end restaurants serving amazing seafood as well as a plethora of fresh fruit juices on every corner. And unlike what happens to us in Mexico sometimes, we didn’t have any bouts of stomach bugs or food poisoning. 

Safety: And now the million dollar question… I know what you’re thinking — is Colombia even a safe place to visit?! 

Everyone hears Colombia and instantly freaks out; the country’s definitely got a wildly bad rep for safety and crime. But that’s mostly a thing of the past. When we told friends and family we booked tickets to Colombia, a lot questioned our reasoning for visiting. And I get it – there’s definitely parts of the country I’d steer clear of, but Cartagena is not one of them. 

We felt completely safe in Cartagena, even walking around the walled city at night. We stuck to busy streets and squares, and didn’t drink much once it got dark. 

There’s plenty of police out on the street (both day and night), and it’s true that the crime in Cartagena typically happens outside the main tourist areas. So just stick to the Walled City. And say “no gracias” or simply ignore the loud rappers on the street if you want nothing to do with them.

As always, use normal precautions when traveling.  Before traveling anywhere, I always check safety warnings and scams on travel.state.gov. 

A few tips to help ensure your safety, which make sense no matter where you’re traveling:

  • Let friends/family back home know where you’re traveling
  • If you’re taking a taxi/Uber alone, send the taxi # and/or license plate to a friend/family member.
  • Be extra cautious when visiting local bars and nightclubs. Know your alcohol limit.
  • Don’t make yourself an easy target. Keep expensive jewelry/watches at home, and keep those electronics hidden. Ladies – wear your bags cross-body, and men – keep your wallets in your front pockets.
  • Be extra careful and observant at banks and ATMs.
  • Don’t buy or do drugs – plain and simple.

Cartagena is one of the most visited cities in the Americas, so if it wasn’t safe, well, I don’t think that many people would actually go. I sure wouldn’t. And as always, ALWAYS trust your gut. If you don’t feel safe, take yourself out of the situation immediately. 

How Long to Stay in Cartagena

To get a good feel for the city, I say 2-3 days will suffice. For reference, we stayed 3 full days in Cartagena itself and felt that was the perfect amount of time. With that being said, we originally planned for longer in order to take day trips to the islands, but flight problems automatically changed our plans for us. 

You can easily fill a whole week in and nearby Cartagena – 2-3 days in the Walled City, a few days on the beaches/exploring the islands, and taking a few day trips (like the mud baths up north). While there’s a whole slew of things to do in Cartagena, we just loved strolling around so a few days were plenty for us.

But after 3 days in the intense heat and humidity, we were ready to find some constant AC and head back to SF’s foggy coast.

A short history lesson on Cartagena’s past 

Cartagena has a complex and dark, yet interesting history. Pirate invasions! Slavery. Independence!

To start things off, sailors from Spain arrived in Cartagena, Colombia in the 1500s to start a new life. Cartagena was in fact the first Spanish colony in the Americas. And it was built entirely by Afro-Caribbean slaves. 

Many don’t know this, and I sure didn’t, but Cartagena was once the largest slave port in the Americas, with Spanish galleons bringing over one million slaves to the small city. 

After a fatal fire occurred in the city, treasures were found in the Sinus Amerindian tribe tombs (who buried their dead with all their riches). This ultimately led the city to prosper, but then came the attacks. 

You’ll probably notice that the Walled City does in fact have walls around it (hence the name). These were to protect the city from pirate invasions back in the day. Yes, real-life pirates (like in Kleftiko Bay in Milos, Greece). Absolutely wild! I still can never get over the fact that pirates actually existed!

Then in the 1700s, the Queen of England ordered for the invasion of every single Spanish port in the Caribbean. The Spanish won, and remained the main Spanish port in the Caribbean Sea. 

In the 1800s, Cartagena was the first city to declare independence from Spain.

What to pack for Cartagena

In terms of clothing, you’ll wanna wear loose-fitting, flowy clothes, as it gets ridiculously hot here and you don’t want your shirts sticking to you (ugh, how uncomfortable!). Plan to bring along a cute bathing suit coverup or two, as well as some comfy sandals for the pool, beach, and walking around town! 

To be completely honest, you’ll probably wanna pack a few extra outfits (actually double). I found myself changing throughout the day after taking a dip in the pool – once you wear an outfit here once… well… you probably won’t wanna wear it again. That humidity is killer! 

Other miscellaneous items you’ll wanna bring along:

  • Polarized sunglasses (better for blocking out the harsh UV rays)
  • Beach bag and/or backpack: make sure it’s large enough to fit a beach towel or two! Ladies, I’d choose a purse that zips up.
  • Hat/s: The sun is strong here! I love taking a wide-brimmed sun hat for the beach and when strolling around town.
  • A waterproof kindle or other e-reader for reading at the beach and resort pool (I’d be worried a physical book may accidentally get wet!)
  • Your hotel may give you towels, but we love traveling with a sand-free beach mat
  • Reusable water bottle with in-bottle filtration system: better for the environment and a must at the beach and in town! Plus, that filtration system will ensure you only drink safe water!
  • Reef Safe sunscreen (always apply when you’ll be in the ocean water, as other sunscreen is harmful to marine life): We love ThinkSport (make sure the bottles are less than 3.4 ounces if you’re bringing them in your carryon)! Don’t forget about SPF lip balm as well!
  • Aloe Vera Gel: always have some handy in case you get a sunburn; aloe will give the burn some much-needed relief
  • Dramamine: This will help with motion sickness if you’re planning to do a snorkeling or boat tour (the waves can get rough depending on the day!).
  • Bug spray will come in handy year round since Cartagena’s always humid, and calamine lotion/hydrocortisone cream is good to have on hand for when you undoubtedly get bitten
  • Underwater camera: Snorkeling at the Rosario Islands? All my underwater photography tips and gear here. I’d check out an underwater phone case, too.
  • Portable battery charger: Charge your phone on the go and never run out of a charge
  • Noise-canceling headphones: Great for both the plane and the beach! I’m obsessed with my AirPods and Noah loves his Bose Quiet Comforts.
  • Tote bag: If you’re planning on doing some shopping in Cartagena, bring your own fold-up tote bag! I love this collapsible reusable tote bag (hardly takes up any room in your suitcase and it’s so lightweight)
  • Some meds for an upset stomach/antidiarrheal medicine (just in case you accidentally drink the water or something)

Best Things to do in Cartagena

And now, finally, all the best things to do in Cartagena!

Wander around the Walled City

Cartagena’s Old Town just happens to be a UNESCO World Heritage Site — balconies with the most beautiful bougainvillea flowers, massive churches in leafy plazas, cobblestoned streets and colorful colonial buildings — each one more beautiful than the last. Walking around the narrow streets is by far one of the most popular things to do in Cartagena. We strolled and strolled until we got too hot, and then we went off searching for some AC.

While you can (and should) simply wander the colorful streets soaking up the atmosphere, there’s a few things not to miss:

  • Eat all the street food! Grab some fresh fruit from one of the street vendors, sip on a fresh coconut, and indulge in a made-right-before-your-eyes arepa con huevo (arepa with egg) and/or arepa con queso (arepa with cheese). Simply nothing better. You’ll need cash so always keep some handy. I suggest taking a street food tour your first day so you know exactly all the secrets and what else to try!
  • Palenqueras! Take photos or simply watch the Palenqueras (Afro-Colombian ladies in bright colorful dresses balancing bowls of fruit on their heads) — true symbols of the city’s culture. Most people don’t realize they originally came from the village of San Basilio de Palenque — the first freed slave settlement in all of the Americas (and home to a completely different language). You’ll need to tip them if you wanna take a photo of/with them, just FYI.
  • Check out the street vendors! You can’t miss them. Besides all the fresh fruit, you’ll find knock-off RayBans, homemade shoes, brightly colored mochila bags, and loads and loads of hats. If you’re looking for souvenirs, you’ll have lots to choose from. Use your bargaining skills over here, but remember this is how the vendors make a living (and everything’s already pretty inexpensive).

Photograph the colorful doors and buildings! 

You cannot visit Cartagena and not go off in search of all the colorful colonial buildings – I honestly couldn’t put my camera away. My husband definitely got a bit annoyed at me after listening to me gush about every single door and building (although I swear, they were all so cute), and having him take pics of me. Thanks, honey!

We found the prettiest streets in Cartagena to be in the San Diego neighborhood (just put “Carmen” into your GPS and voila – color galore)! 

Also, pay special attention to the door knockers — we spotted lots of different animals. I recently learned these intricate door handles used to signal your hierarchy in society – whoa, talk about status symbols! 

Read Next: Exactly where to find all these pretty doors (plus a whole bunch of other insta-worthy photo spots in Cartagena!)

Do note that harsh sunlight makes taking photos particularly difficult in the midday sun. Plan to come early to beat both the crowds and nasty shadows! We got “lucky” and had a bit of cloudy morning once which was perfect for taking some photos glare free!

Walk on the City Walls

Cartagena built 11km of walls around its city to defend itself from pirate attacks back in the day, and you can now walk on them! Now, I’m not suggesting you walk all 11km of walls – it’s far too hot and sticky for that! Instead, when we noticed we were on the edge of town, we found some stairs and walked a bit on the walls. And when we got too hot, we cooled off in a cafe, haha.

There’s uneven footing and a bunch of ups and downs, so make sure you wear flat shoes (flat sandals should be fine). We chose to walk on a few walls, and got views of both the Walled City and Caribbean Sea. While the walls are pretty high, don’t worry, there’s easy access via stairs every now and then.

Hanging out on the city walls are exceptionally popular at sunset – it’s kinda like a mini party here every night! You can either grab drinks at the popular (and super-crowded) Cafe del Mar (where you can expect to pay triple the price for a cocktail or beer), or join the locals and buy a few cheap beers from vendors selling them right on the walls.

Explore Getsemani

Getsemani is kinda like the Walled City’s hipster younger sister. It’s way grittier, and was actually once a seedy haven for prostitutes and hard drugs. 

But now? It’s turned into a cool tourist spot literally bursting with color! Plan to spend a few hours here taking it all in. While you can simply stroll around, there’s a few things to take note of and a few specific streets you should walk down.

I’m planning on writing an entire post dedicated to Getsemani (this unique neighborhood is just so cool), but here’s a sampling of the top things to do in Getsemani.

  • Check out the street art and graffiti on Calle de la Sierpe (The Street of the Serpent, Calle 29): SO. MUCH. COLOR. Do not miss this winding street if you’re a fan of vibrant street art. We stumbled upon it and are so glad we did (it’s famous for a reason). The pieces depict racial segregation, tourism, and gentrification, and are seen in pieces of indigenous women, Maria Mulata (the official bird of Cartagena), the three warriors, and plenty of Palenqueras. There’s also smaller pieces for sale – kinda like an open-air art gallery!
  • People watch in Trinidad Plaza: Looking for all the action? Make your way to Trinidad Plaza once the sun goes down. It’s easily the most happening square in all of Cartagena. We visited during the day when we were exploring Getsemani, but if you wanna see what all the fuss is about, make sure you come back when it’s dark! You’ll find carts with gelato and street burgers, tons of music and art, mimes, dancers, and just people having an overall good time with a few cervezas (beers).
  • Take loads of photos on the umbrella streets: Yes, there’s two umbrella streets in Cartagena – Callejón Angosto and Calle de la Magdalena! Lighting will be intense so try to come early.
  • Go on a walking tour of Getsemani: If you’d prefer to wander around with a local guide who knows their stuff, sign up for a walking tour of Getsemani! After reading about it, I kinda wish we signed up for one (since it’s evident we missed some of the most important graffiti). Visit studios of local artists, Centenario park, Holy Trinity Square, Umbrella street, and even try a local snack and ice cream. Sign up here!
  • Walk down Calle Tripita y Media: This is the main street in Getsemani, with plenty of street vendors, restaurants, and cafes. We shared a Kola Roman over here – a Colombian soft drink that was invented in the city of Cartagena itself back in 1865. It’s super sugary and super sweet, so we could only handle a few sips each! And get this – it’s actually one of the oldest sodas in the world (invented 20 years before Coca Cola)!

Plaza de Bolivar

There’s no shortage of plazas in Cartagena, and Plaza de Bolivar is one of the best! A leafy-green oasis during the day makes it the perfect spot to visit if you’re longing for a bit of shade (there’s lots of trees and benches over here!) And plus, it’s surrounded by some of the most elegant colonial buildings – complete with gorgeous balconies.

We had our first grilled arepa con queso over here from a nearby street vendor, and Plaza de Bolivar was the perfect place to eat it. You’ll see a statue of Simón Bolívar on horseback in the middle of the square.

Sip sunset cocktails on the roof of Hotel Movich 

Easily the best spot in town for sunset! Aim to get there around an hour or so before the sun goes down, as this spot gets crowded, and for good reason. The views are absolutely to die for. The terrace overlooks not only the iconic Santa Ana Cathedral, but the church of San Pedro Claver as well. Plus, there’s the modern skyscrapers of Bocagrande behind it all. Views from every angle – I promise!

Do note Hotel Movich is super popular for private parties (people get married here, the views are that good!), so I suggest heading there on your first night to find out when the rooftop will be open to the public. 

Out of our 3 nights in Cartagena, it was only open our last night – so good thing we kept going back to check! We ended up coming here on the last night of our trip, and it was a great way to say goodbye to our new favorite city!

Relax at your hotel pool

Whatever you do, book a hotel with a pool – you’re gonna want it. With super high temps year round, plus the disgusting humidity, you’ll either wanna shower midday or take a quick dip in the pool (or both). It was hard to be outside between noon and 3! 

We loved the rooftop pool at the Nacar, the cozy, colonial pool at the Ananda, and of course I couldn’t stop sneaking peeks of the gorgeous pool at Casa San Agustin. Plus, who doesn’t want an excuse to sip on fresh juices and pisco sours everyday? 

Try some sweets at El Portal de los Dulces 

Cartagena has an entire block filled with sweets, how perfect is that?! No, not your typical candy shop, but traditional Colombian sweets. It’s basically one big candy market just bursting with color and vendors. 

The candies are all homemade and very, very sweet. We bought a small box for 5 COP (~1.50USD) to try some of them. 

A few candies you’ll come across: cocada (balls or patties of syrup and shredded coconut), blocks of guava paste, dulces de leche, and tamarind balls (not my favorite). And if you act interested and ask questions, they’ll probably give you samples!

Look for monkeys at Parque del Centenario

On our walk over to Getsemani, we strolled through Parque del Centenario in search of tiny tamarin monkeys! We actually saw a lizard as well. At first we couldn’t find any, but when I heard some rumbling noises in the trees, I knew we were in luck! The monkeys are oh so cute!

If you can’t find any, look for the people staring in awe up at the trees. There’s apparently a few sloths in the park as well but we couldn’t find them. While the park itself isn’t anything special in my opinion, it’s worth a quick stop if you’re passing by for the wildlife!

Explore Castillo San Felipe de Barajas (San Felipe Castle)

Feel like wandering around a real life castle?! You need to head over to Castillo San Felipe de Barajas! It’s by far the greatest fortress ever built by the Spaniards, completed way back in 1536 in order to protect the city from attacks for over 400 years (remember – pirates tried to invade Cartagena plenty of times).

Definitely worthy to check out, and one of Cartagena’s most iconic landmarks. Grab your ticket (25 COP, so about $8USD), and walk on up! Definitely bring or buy some water as the uphill climb was harder than I thought. 

One of my favorite aspects of the fort? Walking through the tunnels! You can’t walk through all of them, but some are lit and open to visitors. Easily one of the best things to do in Cartagena if you’re a history lover!

Thankfully, Castillo San Felipe is not far from the Walled City – either a scorching 20 minute walk or a super quick Uber ride. We walked there to get our steps in, and then took an Uber back once we couldn’t handle the heat anymore.

Explore Santa Catalina Cathedral 

You can’t visit Cartagena and not visit Santa Catalina Cathedral – it’s one of the most recognizable buildings in the entire city! And magnificent it is, with a black and white marble floor, limestone exterior, and the original baroque 18th-century gilded altar.

This Spanish-style Catholic basilica was built during the 16th and 17th centuries, and is officially named Catedral Basílica Metropolitana de Santa Catalina de Alejandra – such a mouthful, right?! And get this – the cathedral continues to run as a working church, with mass held every morning.

For some reason, we kept on having the hardest time finding the cathedral (of course I wanted to take pics with it early in the morning). You’d think the distinctive terracotta dome would be visible from anywhere in the city, but it’s really not! 

But here’s a secret tip – if you head to Abaco Books, the cathedral will be right down the block on Calle don Sancho. So take some early morning photos, then head to the cafe to slow down with a coffee.

Take a day trip to the Rosario Islands

Crystal clear Caribbean water. Pristine, white sandy beaches. Fantastic snorkeling! If you’re in Cartagena for at least 3 days, plan to spend one of those out on the water. 

Unfortunately, due to all our flight problems (our flight from Medellin was delayed a whopping TWENTY FIVE hours, yes, 25 hours), we completely missed out on our beach day in Cartagena. But I’ve heard from so many people that the Rosario Islands are the way to go. 

Sure, Playa Blanca’s way closer and all, but it’s not the idyllic escape it used to be. Choose a beach club on the Rosario Islands if you’re looking for a more peaceful day, or a sailing trip for something more adventurous. 

Of course I did my research thinking we would be going for a day or two; here’s my top choices:

Cool off at Abaco Libros y Cafe

I’d seen photos of Abaco before, so I knew I wanted to visit before we even got to Cartagena. It’s an old school bookstore, with titles in both Spanish and English, and the most GORGEOUS stone archway. Plus, the books are literally stacked floor to ceiling – AND there’s a coffee bar inside! 

This was my husband’s favorite coffee shop in Cartagena (yes, we went to quite a few to escape the heat!). We even bought a bag of beans to bring home! And some for our friends too (yes, it was that good).

This charming little bookstore is located right near the iconic Cartagena cathedral, so make a pit stop here for some latte frios and photos!

Shop for Emeralds

Cartagena is known as the Emerald capital of the world, so there’s no better place to buy them! I had no clue that Colombia supplies almost all of the emeralds on the world market – almost 90%! 

What’s so special about Colombian emeralds? Their intense, green color. I swear, the stones looked like a dark leafy green color. Which I later learned is less commonly found.

There’s two areas where you’ll find the highest concentration of emerald shops – Plaza de las Esmeraldas (just south of Bocagrande) and within the Walled City itself. We weren’t even looking for them but found a whole bunch of shops just strolling around town.

You’ll see plenty of jewelry shops around town, including Mister Emerald and Lucy Jewelry (with one of the most upscale showcases). Head to the Caribe Jewelry Museum & Factory near Bocagrande for a super wide selection. 

Green isn’t my favorite color so I didn’t buy anything, but if you’re in the market, Cartagena (and Colombia in general) is the perfect place to find your favorite stone. Stones highly range in price depending on the quality, but you can find some as low as ~110 COP ($30US) or as much as 36,000,000 COP (~$10,000 COP).

Shopping for emeralds is one of the best things to do in Cartagena for jewelry lovers!

Get your salsa on at Cafe Havana

No visit to Cartagena is complete without a night out at Cafe Havana – it’s the most famous salsa club in the city afterall! I mean even Hilary Clinton danced here when she visited Cartagena! Cafe Havana, located in the hipster neighborhood of Getsemani, is easily one of the best things to do in Cartagena at night!

Throw back a few classic cocktails (beware, they’re strong) and join in on the fun – there’s such great energy here! And if you’re too shy to dance, there’s nothing wrong with watching everyone else. Sometimes that’s even more fun, haha. 

If this isn’t one of the most authentic things to do in Cartagena, I don’t know what is! It’s like stepping right into authentic 1950s Cuba, live salsa music and all!

What and Where to Eat in Cartagena

To say I was pleasantly surprised by the culinary scene in Cartagena is a massive understatement. From the few luxury meals to the mouth watering street food to everything in between, it was all delicious. I wanted to eat everything!

Want more info? I just wrote an entire guide including everything we ate (and drank) in Cartagena

Here’s a sampling of my all-time favorites:

Carmen Cartagena: By far the best meal of our trip – in all of Colombia. I’m not exaggerating. Every damn dish was pure perfection. I’m still talking about it to this day – I swear it rivals the tasting menus we’ve had in Mexico City, and that’s saying something since those are in the Top 50 restaurants! 

You have the option to order a la carte or indulge in their 7-course tasting menu…. I think you know what we did! We savored perfectly cooked sea bass, melt-in-your-mouth pork belly, and even a great posta negra Cartagenera. 

Plus, the space is super chic and timeless, set in an intimate colonial house. We chose to sit indoors (the AC was calling our name), but if you can tolerate the heat better than we can, the outdoor terrace is absolutely gorgeous.

Psst — There’s another Carmen over in Medellin if you can’t make it here. I kinda wish we tried them both!

Street Arepas: If there’s one street food you’re gonna try in Cartagena, make sure you indulge in some mouthwatering street arepas. I’ve never had a better arepa in my life. Swear to the Colombian heavens. Probably one of my favorite things I ate on our entire trip to Colombia (and I don’t say that lightly). 

We saw multiple vendors around town grilling these up, but had our favorite one right outside Plaza Bolivar. Be careful – each arepa is piping hot and dripping with tons of cheese. Kinda messy, but oh so worth it!

Psst – they’re super filling and very dense; I’m so glad we shared them.

Try everything at Alma: Have a leafy green lunch at Alma, inside the insta-popular Casa San Agustin Hotel. Everything we ordered was delicious – lobster empanadas, avocado ceviche, grilled octopus, all of it!

We were silly and ate outside (it was our first day in Cartagena and didn’t realize just how humid it was), but the courtyard was gorgeous. Sophisticated, posh, and upscale! Come early and grab a table by the pool!

Try some famous ceviche at La Cevicheria: If Anthony Bourdain says it’s good, it must be. I’m so sad we missed this place (it was randomly closed the day we planned on going). The Peruvian ceviche, lobster paella, and grilled seafood tower for two sound absolutely delicious though!

If there’s a long line (which there usually is), El Boliche Cebicheria is quite the contender so head there if you’re in a time crunch! 

Chill out at a few Coffee Shops: I already gushed about Abaco, but we also loved Epoca (another top contender), Cafe La Manchuria, and Cafe San Alberto. Honestly, there’s nothing better than camping out at a coffee shop sipping on something cold – no matter the time of year. 

Indulge in local fruits and fresh jugo (juice): One of my favorite things about Colombia?! The wide variety of exotic fruits and fresh juices! And the fact that they’re all pretty cheap is a huge bonus. 

Granadillas were by far our favorite. You have to crack it (students take them to school and crack them on their friends’ heads), and the inside is slippery and weird and full of seeds (which you kinda slurp down). Our first hotel had a huge basket of them right by reception so you know I took a few every day.

I think I drank 3-4 fresh juices every day. And all kinds. Fresa (strawberry), maracuya (passionfruit), mango, naranja (orange), lulo (little orange). The list goes on. Juice in the US just doesn’t cut it anymore. 

Buena Vida: Such a colorful and hip restaurant in the center of Cartagena! Everything on the menu looked fantastic – it was super hard to choose. We ended up going with the fried calamari, seafood bisque arepas (made out of pink cornmeal!), and lobster mac n cheese. 

The vibe was so fun; definitely make a reservation for their balcony seating upstairs – I’m so sad we missed out.

A few other things to try in Cartagena: 

  • limonada de coco hierbabuena (you’ll find these on practically every single menu)
  • allll the pisco sours (I had no clue they were so big here – in size and popularity, haha!)
  • bocadillos (guava pastries from bakeries around town)
  • pandebonos (little balls of cheesy bread deliciousness from La Esquina Del Pandebono)
  • craft cocktails at Alquimico Bar (there’s 3 different levels with 3 different menus!)
  • Caribbean food at La Mulata (soulful Caribbean dishes, particularly seafood)
  • Posta negra Cartagenera (Colombian style black beef, which is absolutely delicious)

Sample 3 Day Cartagena Itinerary

  • Day 1: Wander the Walled City and get your bearings, cool off at a coffee shop, explore the castle/fort, quick dip in the pool, sip rooftop drinks at Movich
  • Day 2: Day trip to Rosario islands – go sailing, snorkeling, or stay put at a beach club (or pool day), dinner at La Cevicheria, then late-night drinks at Alquimico 
  • Day 3: Street art in Getsemani, look for monkeys and sloths in Parque del Centenario, indulge in a bougie lunch at Carmen or Alma, Walled City/shopping/coffee/pool, sunset from city walls (drinks at Cafe Del Mar)

Hope this helps you plan your trip to Cartagena! Which of these things to do in Cartagena will you be adding to your itinerary?!

TRAVELING INTERNATIONALLY SOON? Don’t forget travel insurance! I’m a big fan of SafetyWing when traveling abroad. Recently, I’ve been using SafetyWing since they cover pandemic-related claims (most travel insurance companies do not). Be sure to protect yourself from possible injury, lost baggage, travel delays, and theft before it happens. Learn more and Sign up here.

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3 Days in Rio de Janeiro Itinerary: Top Things to Do in Rio, Brazil https://apassionandapassport.com/3-days-in-rio-de-janeiro-itinerary/ https://apassionandapassport.com/3-days-in-rio-de-janeiro-itinerary/#respond Mon, 18 Jun 2018 19:27:48 +0000 https://apassionandapassport.com/?p=14752 Booked tickets to Brazil and planning a 3 days in Rio de Janeiro itinerary?! You’re in luck, because this post will share exactly that, plus the top things to do in Rio, Brazil as well! So you’ve decided on an exhilarating 3 days in Rio de Janeiro. Welcome! Now what? Well, you need a carefullyContinue Reading

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Booked tickets to Brazil and planning a 3 days in Rio de Janeiro itinerary?! You’re in luck, because this post will share exactly that, plus the top things to do in Rio, Brazil as well!

So you’ve decided on an exhilarating 3 days in Rio de Janeiro. Welcome! Now what? Well, you need a carefully planned out Rio de Janeiro itinerary, of course!

Booked tickets to Brazil and planning a 3 days in Rio de Janeiro itinerary?! You're in luck, because this post will share exactly that, plus the top things to do in Rio, Brazil as well!

First things first, let’s begin with the basics! Rio de Janeiro is a city that is located in the state of Rio de Janeiro (confused yet?) and has a population of around 11.5 million people.

The city itself is pretty big, with four districts:

  • Zona Sul (South zone)
  • Zona Norte (North Zone)
  • Zona Oeste (West zone)
  • Centro (the center)

The summer months of Rio (where temperatures can get as high as 40 degrees celsius) are from December – March, while the winters are from June – August. Nevertheless, the winter season still has warm weather, almost never dipping below 15 degrees celsius.

Packing for Rio de Janeiro, therefore, should be easy. Think warm summer clothes plus a couple of warmer pieces, like a sweater and a pair of jeans. Although, during the summer months, those pair of jeans might be left unused. Days and nights in Rio de Janeiro are spent in flip flops and shorts. If need be, bring wedge heels, but leave those sky high stilettos at home, this is a beach town after all!

Booked tickets to Brazil and planning a 3 days in Rio de Janeiro itinerary?! You're in luck, because this post will share exactly that, plus the top things to do in Rio, Brazil as well!
Unless it’s Carnival – then you’re allowed to bring all your over-the-top attire!

Most travellers will probably stay in the south zone, which is where the famous Copacabana and Ipanema neighborhoods are located. If you do want to stay in the south zone, we would recommend Ipanema, or Leblon, if you really want to splurge.

If you are looking for something that is a little different with a dash of bohemian charm, then the Santa Teresa is the neighbourhood for you. For a splurge-worthy experience, we recommend the Hotel Santa Teresa and if you are looking for something a little budget friendly then try Casa Dois Irmaos or the Sant’Matre, located just steps from the main square.

Finally, before we go into the specifics of any 3 days in Rio de Janiero itinerary, remember that Brazilians speak Portuguese and not Spanish. That means gracias is replaced with obrigada (if you are a woman) or obrigado (if you are a man). Other common phrases are:

  • Bom dia: Good day / hello
  • Boa Noite: Good night
  • Vamos tomar uma caipirinha: Let’s have a caipirinha
  • Onde fica seu banheiro?: Where’s the bathroom?
  • Posso ter …: Can I have ….
  • Quanto custa isso?: How much is this?

Note that those coming from the USA will need to get a Visa before traveling to Brazil. And thankfully there’s an easy way to get these! Apply for a Brazil eVisa for US citizens right over there and get on your way! It’s that simple!

Ok, let’s begin our 3 days in Rio itinerary!

The Perfect Rio de Janeiro Itinerary

Day 1: Arrival

Morning/Afternoon

Arrival will probably be at the Aeroporto Antônio Carlos Jobim, also known as Aeroporto Galeão. Nearly all international flights arrive at this airport, which is located 15 km north of the city center. Once you arrive, you have a couple of options for leaving the airport depending on your budget.

From the airport, Premium Auto Ônibus (R$14) buses run approximately every 30 to 40 minutes to Flamengo, Copacabana, Ipanema, Leblon and other neighborhoods. Radio taxis charge a set fare of R$130 to Copacabana and Ipanema (45 to 90 minutes). Less-expensive metered yellow-and-blue comum (common) taxis cost between R$60 and R$90.

Booked tickets to Brazil and planning a 3 days in Rio de Janeiro itinerary?! You're in luck, because this post will share exactly that, plus the top things to do in Rio, Brazil as well!

Relax on your first day and take it easy. Adjust to the time-change, if you have to, and head over to Ipanema beach to soak up the beautiful Rio sun. Why not Copacabana? The Copa water is a little too dirty due to its proximity to Guanabara Bay.

Make sure to keep an eye on your items on the beach and leave all important documents and your passport locked up back in your accommodation. Bring cash and settle near a barraca (tent) where you can rent an umbrella or chair and where you can order cold beers, caipirinhas and even some finger food.

Once the sun starts to wane, pack up your stuff and head back to your hotel/hostel for a shower and a quick change before heading out again for an night on the town.

Evening

Following the theme of the day, take it easy. Head over to Copacabana and walk down the sidewalk, stopping by the numerous small markets along the way.

Booked tickets to Brazil and planning a 3 days in Rio de Janeiro itinerary?! You're in luck, because this post will share exactly that, plus the top things to do in Rio, Brazil as well!

Stop at a kiosk and order a caipirinhas before heading over to our favorite local restaurant in Copacabana, Braseiro, a quaint spot with roasted chicken, fries, farofa (toasted cassava flour mixture) & vinaigrette. End the night with a chop (glass of beer) just down the street at Boteco Belmonte.

Boteco Belmonte: R. Domingos Ferreira, 242 – Copacabana

Brasiero: R. Domingos Ferreira, 214 – Copacabana

Day 2: Christ the Redeemer, Parque Lage & The Botanical Gardens

Morning/Afternoon

Start the day early with a trip up to Christ the Redeemer if the weather is beautiful. If you want to go up to Christ the Redeemer via train or van, we recommend that you buy tickets beforehand at one of the Riotur kiosks which are in Copacabana on Avenida Atlântica in front of Rua Hilario de Gouveia or in the city center on Rua da Candelaria, 6, (open 8 am until 7 pm) or online at the official site. The prices include the train up, back down and the entrance to the Christ.

For adults (including students) – R$61 at low season. R$74 at high season (high season includes weekends and holidays all year round).

Booked tickets to Brazil and planning a 3 days in Rio de Janeiro itinerary?! You're in luck, because this post will share exactly that, plus the top things to do in Rio, Brazil as well!

Then head over to Parque Lage for lunch. Parque Lage is a public park located in the Jardim Botânico neighborhood at the foot of the Corcovado. The land was formerly the residence of industrialist Enrique Lage and his wife, singer Gabriella Besanzoni. Inside the Parque Lage mansion is the Parque Cafe, the perfect stop for brunch and coffee before you set off to the Botanical Gardens.

Booked tickets to Brazil and planning a 3 days in Rio de Janeiro itinerary?! You're in luck, because this post will share exactly that, plus the top things to do in Rio, Brazil as well!

Two kilometres away from Parque Lage is the Jardim Botanico (the Botanical Gardens), a 137-hectare garden that is home to over 800 plant species and designed by the order of the Prince Regent Dom João.

If this all sounds too complicated, there are many tours that offer all of this with the inclusion of transportation. You can ask us (Now in Rio) and/or your accommodation providers for the best tour companies within the city.

We would skip the trip back to the hostel/hotel and instead go straight to Escadaria Selarón, also known as the ‘Selaron Steps.” One of the most beautiful things to see in Rio de Janeiro, these world-famous step are the work of the Chilean-born artist Jorge Selaron, who said it was his tribute to the Brazilian people.

Evening

Since you are already in the Center, either walk up to Santa Teresa, take the bonde (Santa Teresa yellow tram) and/or cable car or if grab a taxi (R$7). Once you get up to Santa Teresa, take a small walk around the main square (Largo dos Guimarães).

Santa Teresa is one of the best places for boutiques that are filled with locally-made trinkets, paintings, clothes and more. Visit Tucum, a store that sells aboriginal items and where the proceeds go directly back to the communities.

Booked tickets to Brazil and planning a 3 days in Rio de Janeiro itinerary?! You're in luck, because this post will share exactly that, plus the top things to do in Rio, Brazil as well!

Then go to the Bar do Mineiro, an iconic local bar known for its feijoada, pastéis & cachaça, set in a modest neighborhood home. Feijoada is a bean stew that is filled with pork and beef. It is served with rice, farofa and orange wedges.

Bar do Mineiro: Rua Paschoal Carlos Magno, 99 – Santa Teresa

Day 3: Live Like a Local & SugarLoaf

Morning/Afternoon

It can be hard walking around Rio de Janeiro by yourself and I understand that people can be confused about what to do and where to go. Therefore we recommend going on a live like a local-type tour with a Rio guide. We’ve often teamed up with Bromelia Travel, who offers a great three hour “Live Like a Local Tour.”

Start off in a padaria (bakery), where Lauren (the owner) will explain the local pastries and goodies. We recommend getting an acai before heading to the Uruguaiana market in the Center.

Booked tickets to Brazil and planning a 3 days in Rio de Janeiro itinerary?! You're in luck, because this post will share exactly that, plus the top things to do in Rio, Brazil as well!

Now, for those that are new to Rio and don’t speak the local lingo, Uruguaiana Market is a huge market filled to the brim with whatever your heart wants and desires. We then end the tour at the Royal Portuguese Reading Room, a library that holds the largest and most valuable collection of Portuguese literature outside of Portugal. You can also do this tour by yourself if you want to wander alone!

Then take a taxi or UBER to Sugarloaf and head-up. The cable cars leave the ground station next to Praia Vermelha. The first stop is Morro da Urca. From there, you can take another cable cart to the Sugarloaf. Take your time!

At Morro da Urca you can relax and take advantage of the restaurants and/or snack bars (try some pao de queijo) before boarding the second cable car to the Sugarloaf mountain. Each stage of the cable car takes just three minutes and the cable cars depart every 20 minutes.

Booked tickets to Brazil and planning a 3 days in Rio de Janeiro itinerary?! You're in luck, because this post will share exactly that, plus the top things to do in Rio, Brazil as well!

After you’re done, take a 15-minute walk from Praia Vermelha beach to Bar Urca. Go to the bar, order a chilled beer and some snacks and take it across the street to sit on the wall that overlooks the bay. If you miss the sunset at Sugarloaf, try to catch it here. It’s not as dramatic but it’s certainly one to remember.

Bar Urca is easily one of our favorite places for a chilled drink and a few empadas (Brazilian pies) or a cheese pastel.

Bar Urca: R. Cândido Gafree, 205 – Urca

Evening

But don’t eat too much! Because from there, catch a cab/UBER to one of the most famous churrascarias in Rio de Janeiro: Fogo de Chão Botafogo. Picture this, a bottle of red wine, a all you can eat salad bar and an army of waiters with different cuts of meats that come up to your table and place them on your plate. Come hungry. Leave satisfied with meat sweats. Expect to pay a little more for this experience, but trust us. It’s worth it. F

Fogo de Chão Botafogo: Av. Reporter Nestor Moreira, s/n – Botafogo

Depending on the days you come to Rio de Janeiro, there are day specific events. The most notable events are:

  • The Hippie Fair. The fair happens every Sunday from mornig to evening in General Osorio square in Ipanema. It is filled to the brim with local merchants selling everything and anything you can imagine
  • Lapa. If you love samba and caipirinhas, then you should go and enjoy them under the gorgeous white arcs of Lapa on Friday (better day) and/or Saturday
  • Pedra do Sal. Did you know that samba was born in Rio de Janeiro? On Monday nights, people meet at the Pedra do Sal to enjoy drinks and samba.

Anyone headed to Brazil soon?! What on this 3-day Rio de Janeiro itinerary are you most excited about?!

Thanks to Yvonne Ivanescu of Now in Rio for this fantastic 3 days in Rio guest post! Now in Rio is a travel and culture website that provides comprehensive information about Rio de Janeiro for both tourists and anyone interested in travel and/or Brazil. It seeks to change perspectives, shatter stereotypes, and introduce you to the real Rio de Janeiro – its vibrant communities, delicious local cuisine, thriving underground culture and unbelievable scenery. To follow their adventures, visit their websiteFacebook and/or their Visit Brazil Facebook group.

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Day Trips from Cusco: 5 Tours from Cusco You Can’t Miss https://apassionandapassport.com/day-trips-from-cusco-tours/ https://apassionandapassport.com/day-trips-from-cusco-tours/#respond Wed, 23 May 2018 18:51:21 +0000 http://apassionandapassport.com/?p=14661 Headed to Peru and looking for the best day trips from Cusco? You’ve got a whole slew of the best Cusco tours below! Nestled in the Peruvian Andes, Cusco was the capital of the mighty Inca Empire and presently the cultural capital of Peru. Due to it being a gateway to Machu Picchu, it isContinue Reading

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Headed to Peru and looking for the best day trips from Cusco? You’ve got a whole slew of the best Cusco tours below!

Nestled in the Peruvian Andes, Cusco was the capital of the mighty Inca Empire and presently the cultural capital of Peru. Due to it being a gateway to Machu Picchu, it is one of the most touristy cities in South America, and with good reason. One could easily spend weeks immersing in its rich and complex history, wander and discover new spots in the cobblestone streets and hike to the many mountains and lakes in the regions. The day trips from Cusco are top notch, with as much natural beauty and culture as possible!

Because of its strong foundations, beautiful surroundings and developed infrastructures, it is the perfect base from which to explore the region!

Headed to Peru and looking for the best day trips from Cusco? You've got a whole slew of the best Cusco tours within the post, read more and add some exciting tours to your Peru itinerary!

Since I haven’t yet made it to Machu Picchu (or South America in general… yea.. need to fix that ASAP), I’ve enlisted Owen from My Turn to Travel to share with us his most recommended day trips from Cusco! Enjoy!

But first, some necessary information about the city in general:

Pre-Travel Guide to Cusco, Peru

How to get around Cusco

You’ll most probably stay near the city center of Cusco. Most accommodations, restaurants, cafes and museums are in the center and you can easily get around by foot. Taxis are available and they cost 5 soles to get anywhere near the city center. There are also public buses that serve the outskirts of the city.

Important things to pack

At 3400m above sea level, Cusco can be very hot in the day and very cold at night. If you get cold easily, pack a hat/beanie, gloves and several layers to use at night. Fret not if you under-packed, because there are many artisan shops in the city selling alpaca wool sweaters.

Altitude sickness is also a big problem for many travelers.  Remember to take it slow on your first day and avoid alcohol. Pack some Diamox/Acetazolamide to help deal with the adjustment period. Or try the local remedy – Coca leaves/tea!

Where to base yourself for Cusco day trips

There are a ton of things to do in Cusco and the buzz of the city is centered around the Plaza de Armas. There are hundreds of hotels in Cusco surrounding the main Plaza, ranging from luxurious 5-star hotels to backpacker party hostels.

The JW Marriott El Convento Cusco is a luxurious property that was once a 16th century convent called San Augustin and reflected the traditional Spanish Baroque style in its cloisters and courtyards. Even now, it is packed full of pre-Inca, Inca and colonial artefacts.

If you’re a backpacker seeking a party atmosphere, head to Loki Cusco or Wild Rover Cusco. These two well-known party hostels have a themed-party every single night and are great places to meet other travelers. Wild Rover even has a giant inflatable slide on Sunday afternoons.

The San Blas neighborhood is a trendy artisan area 10-15 minutes walk from the main Plaza and offers alternative accommodation for those that want to be away from the crowd. Be warned though, this neighborhood is up a hill and requires some effort to reach, especially at this altitude!

When to go to Cusco

Cusco has 2 main seasons: dry and wet.

The dry season is best for those that plan to do the multi-day treks to Machu Picchu. The dry season runs from May to October and is also the winter period. The average daytime temperature is 16C/61F. At night, it can get as low as 0C/32F.

The wet season runs from November to April, with the heaviest rainfall statistically in January. Night time temperature is around 9C/48F.

Important phrases

Although Quechua is the native language in Peru, Spanish is widely-spoken and the official language of the country. Cusco, being a touristic city, has many English speakers in the tourism industry; hotels, restaurants, tour guides, cafes etc.

Nevertheless, if you step out of the city center and wander into the local markets, here are some phrases that are good to know:

  • Hello: Hola
  • Good morning/day: Buenos dias
  • I want… : Yo quiero…
  • I need… : Yo necesito…
  • I have…: Yo tengo…
  • I don’t know: Yo no se
  • Do you have…: Tienes…?
  • Do you speak English? Hablas Ingles?
  • I don’t speak Spanish: No Hablo Español
  • Where is the…: Donde esta…
  • Toilet: Baño
  • How much does it cost: Cuanto cuesta?
  • Food: Comida
  • Thank you: Gracias

And finally, without further ado, here are a few favorite Cusco day trips!

Best Day Trips From Cusco, Peru

1. Rainbow mountain

The one place in Peru that appears the most on Instagram feeds besides Machu Picchu has got to be Vinicunca, the Rainbow Mountain.

Headed to Peru and looking for the best day trips from Cusco? You've got a whole slew of the best Cusco tours within the post, read more and add some exciting tours to your Peru itinerary!

This unbelievable seven-colored mountain in the Cusco region was only discovered less than a decade ago; due to global warming and the melting of snow. In fact, the first guided tour was only in 2016. Since then, throngs of tourists have made their way up to get their Instagram-worthy shot.

Tours usually leave Cusco at 3am, stop at a village on the way for breakfast, and start the hike up around 8am. The roughly 2 hr trek is extremely tough due to the altitude. The trailhead starts at 4600m and rises up till 5200m – the spot where everyone gets their photo.

The view up the mountain is breathtaking – both metaphorically and literally. The stripes of the seven colors and its surrounding red and green valley will make you think you are on another world. Yet, the altitude makes you lose your breath and freeze.

Fret not if you’re not fit, because you can hire horses along the way to ride up to the base of the Rainbow Mountain. From there it is just a short climb up.

Headed to Peru and looking for the best day trips from Cusco? You've got a whole slew of the best Cusco tours within the post, read more and add some exciting tours to your Peru itinerary!

The weather high up at 5200m is also unpredictable. It could be sunny one moment, and snowing the next. Be sure to layer up!

Of all the day trips from Cusco on this list, the Rainbow Mountain is the one to go for if you’re a nature and adventure lover!

Recommended day trips to Rainbow Mountain from Cusco:

2. Humantay Lake

If there is a natural landscape that blew me away the first time I saw it, it would be the Humantay Lake.

And that was only from photos… on the internet.

Headed to Peru and looking for the best day trips from Cusco? You've got a whole slew of the best Cusco tours within the post, read more and add some exciting tours to your Peru itinerary!

Imagine my joy when I found out that the Humantay Lake is a part (optional) of the Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu that I signed up for! From the Soraypampa campsite at 3900m, it was a 1-2 hour hike up to the lake at 4600m. Like the Rainbow Mountain, the challenge here wasn’t really the terrain, but the altitude.

After huffing and puffing up the mountain, you’ll be rewarded with the sight of the spectacular Humantay Lake. This glacier lake lies at the feet of the majestic snow-capped Humantay mountain; with unbelievable hues of blue and green that sparkle when the sun shines on the water body.

Simply stunning.

If you’re feeling adventurous, you can climb up to the narrow ridge surrounding the lake to have a bird’s eye view of the lake and its surrounding. Be warned – the wind can get strong and extremely chilly up there!

Like many attractions in Peru, the Humantay Lake can be done as a day trip from Cusco too.

Recommended day trips to Humantay Lake from Cusco:

3. Sacred Valley

The Sacred Valley of the Incas is a range of towns, lakes and historical sites in the Andes mountain range of Peru. Carved by the snaking Urubamaba river, this ridiculously photogenic valley is only 20km from the Inca capital, making it an ideal day trip from Cusco.

The classic and most popular circuit to explore the Sacred Valley is a visit to Pisac and its mountain-top fortress, lunch at Urubamba, the terraces of Ollantaytambo, and a visit to the weaving village of Chinchero.

Pisac is known for its famous Sunday market and one of the cheapest place to buy hand-made handicrafts in the region. It has all sorts of colorfully-weaved alpaca scarves, sweaters and clothing, shiny trinkets, country magnets and more.

Headed to Peru and looking for the best day trips from Cusco? You've got a whole slew of the best Cusco tours within the post, read more and add some exciting tours to your Peru itinerary!

There is also a modern jewelry store in the town where you can see jewelry craftsmen in action. Pisac is the place to fill up your luggage with souvenirs for family and friends.

However, Pisac’s claim to fame is the Inca fortress and rice terraces towering over the village. The Inca planted different types of crops over the 276 rice terrace levels that are connected by an irrigation system and carefully-carved steps. These steps lead up to a little hill with an ancient fortress built on top, which belonged to the high society and provided a vantage view of the surrounding valley.

Ollantaytambo is the town visitors go to catch the train to Machu Picchu. However, the primary attraction is the Ollantaytambo Fortress on the outskirts of the town.

Like in Pisac, the fortress here lies atop huge terraces built for farming, irrigation and religious purposes. Climbing up the terraces gives a sense of just how large this complex really is. Ollantaytambo also has historical significance, as this was the place where the Inca defeated the conquistadors in a major battle – one of the few times they won.

I’d suggest going on a day tour, because your guide will explain to you the exciting history of these places, and also bring you to the town of Urubamba and even stop by Chinchero village.

Recommended Sacred Valley day trips from Cusco:

4. Maras & Moray

Did you know that Peru has over 4000 types of potatoes? This is partly due to the agricultural experiments done during the Inca civilization, in what is known as ‘agricultural laboratories’.

Headed to Peru and looking for the best day trips from Cusco? You've got a whole slew of the best Cusco tours within the post, read more and add some exciting tours to your Peru itinerary!

Moray is the most famous of these ‘laboratories’: perfect concentric circle terraces carved into a natural depression in the earth. Each of these terrace levels simulate a different altitude in the region, with a different temperature in every level.

The different microclimate in every altitude produced different varieties of potatoes and corn and allowed the Inca to expand their crop empire. The Moray rice terrace is a true display of Inca engineering genius.

A visit to Moray is usually accompanied by a visit to the Maras Salt Mine. The Maras Salt Mine is a series of cascading salt pools strategically tucked into the hills. These salt pools form a network of ancient salt deposits, with salt water that comes from a subterranean natural spring in the Andes mountains.

Headed to Peru and looking for the best day trips from Cusco? You've got a whole slew of the best Cusco tours within the post, read more and add some exciting tours to your Peru itinerary!

Locals from the nearby town of Maras were smart enough to make a living from the salt, that supposedly has different mineral components from other sources. As tourists, what interests us the most is probably how pretty the salt mine look: postcard perfect, and extremely Instagrammable.

Recommended Maras & Moray day trips from Cusco:

5. Machu Picchu

How can we forget the grand-daddy of them all? The icon of South America… The New World Wonder… The Lost City of the Inca…

Headed to Peru and looking for the best day trips from Cusco? You've got a whole slew of the best Cusco tours within the post, read more and add some exciting tours to your Peru itinerary!

Machu Picchu. The ultimate of the day trips from Cusco of them all!

You might have heard of the 5D4N Inca Trail that many travelers do as a ‘rite of passage’ to Machu Picchu. Or the scenic alternative 5D4N Salkantay trek.

It’s no wonder many people think the only way to reach the wondrous ruins is to do a hike. But it is entirely possible to reach Machu Picchu as a day trip from Cusco. In fact, this way of seeing the ruins is offered by many tour agencies.

Headed to Peru and looking for the best day trips from Cusco? You've got a whole slew of the best Cusco tours within the post, read more and add some exciting tours to your Peru itinerary!

A typical day trip to Machu Picchu involves an early morning pick-up at your hotel, followed by a scenic train ride from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes and a comfortable bus ride up the mountain.

You will take your sweet time wandering around the UNESCO site while a guide will share the history and significance of this site. Then you’ll make your way back to Cusco by bus, train and private transfer, totally skipping the multi-day hike and hassle of logistics.

It is a long day but you’ll have sufficient time to explore the ruins. A day trip to Machu Picchu is ideal for the time-crunched travelers!

Recommended Machu Picchu day trips from Cusco:

Which of these day trips from Cusco will you be adding to your itinerary?!

Thanks again to Owen from My Turn to Travel for sharing with us his top Cusco day trip recommendations!

Photo credits: 1, 1b, 2

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Best Day Trips from Quito, Ecuador https://apassionandapassport.com/best-day-trips-from-quito-ecuador/ https://apassionandapassport.com/best-day-trips-from-quito-ecuador/#respond Mon, 09 Oct 2017 06:05:06 +0000 https://apassionandapassport.com/?p=12119 Looking for the best day trips from Quito, Ecuador? Welcome, you’ve made it to the right place! Although I haven’t made it to Ecuador just yet, I’ve enlisted my friend Bren from Bren on the Road whose been to the country more times than I can count to share with us the best day tripsContinue Reading

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Looking for the best day trips from Quito, Ecuador? Welcome, you’ve made it to the right place!

Although I haven’t made it to Ecuador just yet, I’ve enlisted my friend Bren from Bren on the Road whose been to the country more times than I can count to share with us the best day trips from Quito. Enjoy this guest post!

Ecuador remains one of my favorite countries in South America. It’s tucked away in the corner, and many travelers tend to skip over it, not realising that this is one of the most versatile and biodiverse countries in the world. One place particularly slept on is the capital – Quito.

This is a city that has so much to offer on its own, but what makes a stay in the city even more rewarding is the numerous day trips from Quito that are possible in every direction. If you’re after water, mountains, history, small towns – it’s all here! Below I’ll let you in on my top five day trips from Quito, but first, a little primer to Quito itself.

Quito Pre-travel guide

How to get around

Quito has a decent public transport system, which consists mostly of “enclosed buses”. It’s kind of a cross between a tram and a bus, with it’s own private road through Quito streets. They stop in designated stations, which are like tram stations – you buy a ticket at the entrance and then simply hop on or off when the bus rolls around. The best thing about these is they’re super cheap! 25 cents a ride.

Taxis are also plentiful in Quito and very affordable. They all run on a meter and the ride will rarely cost more than $3. If you’re riding at night it’s common for them to refuse to use the meter, so make sure you negotiate first. Anything more than $5 for a ride would be a lot, unless you’re heading out of the city limits.

What to pack

Quito sits at almost 3,000 metres above sea level (yes, that’s high!) and is rather cold all year round. Expect the nights to get down to around 10°C, so it’s a good idea to pack warm clothes both for sleeping and roaming around during the day. Rain is also common in Quito, so prepare for wet days as well. It helps to pack a pair of comfortable walking or hiking shoes too. A lot of Quito exploring can be done on foot, not to mention the many day trips and hikes that the city offers.

Where to stay

You have two choices really – old Quito or new Quito. Old Quito is exactly what is sounds like – an old historic side of Quito with cobblestone roads, big plazas, churches, winding alleys and lots of local life in action.

If you’re looking for nightlife and western comforts, this probably isn’t the best place, but if you’re after a more rustic, Latin American experience, this will fit the bill nicely. There are many small hotels and guesthouses around here that are more than affordable.

The other side of town is a lot more modern and developed. Most people gravitate towards the Mariscal district, which is sort of a backpackers haven full of cheap restaurants and bars, but has a few nice hotels too. There are not too many tourists in Quito to begin with so the place isn’t overflowing with foreigners, but it is noticeably more touristy. Not far from here are the big shopping malls and western-feeling parts of town, if that’s what you’re after.

I spent half my time in Quito in the Discovery Hostel, which is a nice boutique place right on the edge of Mariscal Square. The rest of my time was spent in an Airbnb, which is also quite active in Quito.

When to go

The dry season is the best time to visit, which runs between June and September. This is also peak season. However, as mentioned Ecuador is hardly the most popular tourist destination in the world. Even during peak seasons Quito is unlikely to feel crowded; if anything the crowds are likely to be on the Amazon cruises and the Galapagos Islands. To be honest there is never a ‘bad’ time to visit Quito, just show up whenever it fits the schedule.

Best Day Trips From Quito

1. The Middle of the World

Mitad del mundo, Ecuador
One of the most popular day trips from Quito is to Mitad del Mundo, or “The Middle Of The World”.

As you may have already guessed, this is where the equator runs through Ecuador (interestingly, “ecuador” actually translates to “equator” in Spanish).

The site is well set up to receive tourists, and once inside you’ll be treated to a mini tourist park, complete with museum, shops, a few restaurants, a monument, and of course, the equator itself.

Not long after you walk in you’ll come across some experiments set up for visitors to amuse themselves with – one is a mock toilet bowl to test whether water drains in the opposite direction when in the northern and southern hemispheres. Another allows you to try and balance an egg on a nail – as science says in the center of the world, the egg should stand perfectly upright. I’m not sure I did them right, but I left with the conclusion both were false!

The equator itself is marked with a thick yellow line, but there’s an interesting backstory here. The equator was marked by French explorers a few centuries ago – and as their satellite technology wasn’t quite as sharp as it is today, they misplaced the line by a few hundred metres (the real equator is about a five minute walk down the road). There is in fact a small museum at the correct coordinates, which many travellers end up checking out as well.

The easiest way to get out there is hire a taxi. Tourists head over there daily so all the drivers know exactly where you’re going. You should be able to haggle to around $30-$40 for a return trip, so it’s a good idea to fill up a car and split the cost. You can also bus if you prefer – catch one from the La Ofeila terminal – they run past Mitad del Mundo regularly. Should cost you less than a dollar, but make sure you leave early as the traffic can get bad during the day!

2. Cotopaxi National Park

Cotopaxi
Climbing Cotopaxi, one of the world’s highest active volcanoes, was the perfect day trip from Quito for the thrill seeking traveller. A gruelling eight hour climb, super high altitude, off the beaten track. It was a gnarly one.

Unfortunately, Cotopaxi recently started burping again, and summitting is rarely allowed these days, if ever.

However, Cotopaxi always did offer a lot for the non-climbers, and has always been one of the most popular day trips from Quito. You can explore the various lagoons and rivers, go mountain biking, search for some wildlife to photograph (Andean foxes are sometimes roaming around) and there’s a small wildlife museum you can check out too.

What most day trippers come here for though is the hike up to the climber’s refuge – a resting spot for climbers heading to the summit. It’s about a one hour hike and the views up here are pretty spectacular. It’s a short but tough climb, so make sure you’re in decent shape.

While it’s possible to visit Cotopaxi indie style, most people visit with a guide or in a group tour, which is highly recommended. It’s also not a bad idea to stay the night in the area (there are several lodges around) so you can enjoy the park at its best – the early morning and late evening offer the best photo opportunities!

3. Mindo

Cascada
Most day trips from Quito give tingles to the nature lovers, but Mindo might be the ultimate.

Famous for the thick cloud forest the town is settled in, Mindo is known for its biodiversity, endless greenery and affinity to all things of Mother Nature. This is the tropical Andes – one of the most biodiverse regions on the planet.

Most people come to Mindo for the waterfalls. The most popular is the Cascada La Reina, which translates to “The Queen Waterfall”, but there are several waterfalls nestled in the Mindo jungle and most travellers make it a mission to hike to all of them. This will take a whole day in itself, so if that’s the plan, you should probably plan to spend the night (or arrive really, really early).

Another thing Mindo is known for is its adventure tourism. Mountain biking, canyoning, tubing, horse riding – it can all be done here under the famous fog of the Mindo jungle.

If you do spend the night, and many travellers do, prepare for a little dose of natural lullaby. All types of jungle rustle and wildlife can be heard throughout the night, particularly the birds (Mindo was originally a birdwatcher haven, before the backpacker crowd rolled in). While the town is fast developing and becoming more popular each year, it’s still a glorious place to fall back into nature.

As for getting to Mindo, it’s easy. Direct buses run from Quito daily for $3 from La Ofeila bus station.

4. Papallacta Hot Springs

Papallacta
Papallacta is a small potato farming town high in the mountains, sitting at 3,300 metres above sea level. However it’s not their potatoes, but their natural hot springs, that has put this town on the tourist map.

A whole economy has developed around Papallacta’s thermal pools, heated by the regions volcanic activity, with many lodges and guesthouses now advertising their own private termas, or hot springs.

However, most people come here for the famous Termas de Papallacta, a collection of privately run hot pools for visitors to use. There is a modest entrance fee to get in, depending on which set of pools you want to visit. You can also stay at the adjacent hotel, where entrance to the pools will be included with your room.

Some people organise a tour or shuttle to get to Papallacta, but it’s very possible to travel by bus from the Quito terminal. Get the bus for either Tena or Baeza from Cumbaya in Quito. The ride shouldn’t cost you more than a couple of dollars and will take around two hours to get to Papallacta. You’ll get dropped off on the highway and you’ll need to make a hike up the hill to the centre of town.

There are also buses that’ll take you up for a few dollars. Head there during the weekdays to avoid the crowds. Also know that other than eat fish and bathe in the springs, there’s not a whole lot to do, so while it’s a great day trip there’s not much reason to stay the night. Head there early so you can get back before nightfall.

5. Otavalo

Otavalo Market
Otavalo is a mountain town about two hours from Quito, where many travellers pass through to see the world-famous Otavalo market. This is one of the continent’s most iconic markets, where Otavaleños, commonly known as the most enterprising and prosperous indigenous group of Latin America, sell textiles, handicrafts, artwork and an endless array of woven and embroidered goods in their signature rainbow of colours.

However, there is more to see here than just the market. The Peguche waterfall is just a 3km outside of town, and 3km in the opposite direction is the famous San Pablo lake, the most visited lake in Ecuador. There is also the small town of Cotacachi, known for its leather goods, just 15km to the north, as well as many other lakes, mountains and indigenous villages surrounding the town. Also don’t forget that Otavalo is right in the middle of the Imbabura mountains, a stunning site in itself.

With so much to see, many travellers opt to spend a few nights here rather than try to squeeze it all into a day, but if you’re only there to check out the market, one day is more than enough.

Getting there is easy – simply catch the Otavalo bus from the Terminal Carcelen in Quito.

Thanks again to Bren for sharing his knowledge on the best day trips from Quito! I’m itching to get to South America sooner than later, especially after reading his post!

Are you heading to Ecuador soon?! What day trips from Quito are on your list to explore?!

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